Shocks worth the money?

[Bill Stipe]

One thing I do what to say here is as far as original style remanufactured shocks go I believe my design shocks are the only ones that have a reservoir that you can add and check the oil. The reservoir is needed to allow the oil to recirculate through the air bleed designed into each wing chamber, with out this you can develop a small air pocket and the shock lever will move freely for several degrees of movement. this makes the shock useless for keeping the car stable. the same thing with a tube shocks if you have free movement or play in the action the car will not be stable.
So when your considering spending the money for the original style shocks keep that in mine you should get what you paid for with you're hard earned money.
If anyone is still interested, Stipe Machine is still making new shocks, both my sons bought the shop this spring from me.
Thank all of you for your years of support, I know my sons will continue in my foot steps of building quality products.
Bill Stipe Jr.

[1930 coupe]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

My comments on how a shock lever should move are based on a very crude attempt to test a shock according to the service bulletins.

I guesstimated a lever length and weight. Turns out when I learned the actual weight and length I was not far off.

I would like to test and adjust my shocks on the bench before I install them. Could you tell us the correct LEVER LENGTH and WEIGHT.
Thank You

[Stew Masche]

Also, before installing the shocks, keep in mind that they are designed to fit certain corners of the car, If installed incorrectly, by location, they will do you no good.
The left front, and right rear are the same, as is the right front, and left rear, they have to be mounted correctly in order to have the correct absorption and rebound. The shocks should be marked "CW" for clockwise, and "CC" or "AC" for counter-clockwise, or anti-clockwise.
Left front, and right rear would be 'anti-clockwise', right front and left rear would be 'clockwise'. The notches in the shock post where the arm bolt passes through will also dictate their location.

[FordTudor1931]

Would Henry have spent $4 per car for shocks if they weren't needed?

[1929]

I asked the same question here, and was sold on the safety issue that many claimed. They make a difference.

[denniskliesen]

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Does anybody have pictures close up of the Stipe shocks? Can they be purchased from vendors or only direct from Stipe Machine?

[30 Tudor]

Originally Posted by denniskliesen

Does anybody have pictures close up of the Stipe shocks? Can they be purchased from vendors or only direct from Stipe Machine?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGwz6kafn3A

Is this close enough?

[denniskliesen]

Yep close enough for me. how about price and where to purchase...

[Chris Haynes]

I am putting MGB shocks on my A. Bolt pattern is the same as the A. Gotta do an "S" Bend to the arm and put a ball on the end.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MGB-MGB-GT-r...pYf8oS&vxp=mtr

[Kevin in NJ]

Here is a link to the thread with the info on the KRW tool:

Checking Shocks

[Bill Stipe]

You can call Stipe Machine at 920-467-2895 we do not have any dealer just not enough mark up in them for dealers.
Stipe Machine
N5718 County Road M
Plymouth, WI. 53073
920-467-2895

[Special Coupe Frank]

Originally Posted by mshmodela

I was in your boat, added stipe shocks, car was made a new... Body roll, all but gone and you can drive one handed without worry... Well worth it. If money is an issue get a set of originals.. Tube shock up front where you need it are not ideal there... Remember the model a is a light weight car, so it needs these much more than a heavy car.

I drove my '28 coupe year-round first year with it, no shocks.

I didn't mind the bounce too much, but in wet weather, when the front springs got wet and loosened-up, she'd jump around like a kid-goat.

Cornering was dicey.

Old Henry wouldn't have put them on the car in the first place if they weren't necessary.