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Old 01-04-2015, 05:53 PM   #1
OL JENNY
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Default Slip Plate/Dry Moly Application

Les Andrews in his book, and some others on the Barn have talked about applying Slip Plate like products to the BOTTOM surface of each leaf if you are refurbishing Model A springs. Does it work better when only applied to one surface as opposed to applying it to both the bottom of a leaf and the top of the leaf below it? Is there a disadvantage to doing both surfaces?
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Old 01-04-2015, 07:01 PM   #2
BRENT in 10-uh-C
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Default Re: Slip Plate/Dry Moly Application

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Originally Posted by OL JENNY View Post
Les Andrews in his book, and some others on the Barn have talked about applying Slip Plate like products to the BOTTOM surface of each leaf if you are refurbishing Model A springs. Does it work better when only applied to one surface as opposed to applying it to both the bottom of a leaf and the top of the leaf below it? Is there a disadvantage to doing both surfaces?
The only disadvantage is it looks odd because the texture. I personally do not feel there is much of an advantage coating both sides. The biggest help is grinding out the grooves if they're shallow enough. If not, replace them.
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Old 01-04-2015, 07:20 PM   #3
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Default Re: Slip Plate/Dry Moly Application

You can coat both sides or apply multiple coats. Either way it can only take so much because when you bolt the leaves together the excess will squeeze out. Wipe it off with solvent and then paint the whole assembly before you install it.

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Old 01-04-2015, 07:32 PM   #4
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Default Re: Slip Plate/Dry Moly Application

When I apply John Deere Slip Plate, I only do the bottom sides and you can easily paint the under side and it will never show. If you paint the top side, you have to be careful for where you stop or it will show. If you don't care if the gray stuff shows, which I do care, you can paint the entire top of the leaves. BTW, I paint the slip plate on sandblasted leaves, not painted and then paint the assembled spring. Paint wont do any good anyway as it will rub off and get in the slip plate, which doesn't help.
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:16 PM   #5
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Default Re: Slip Plate/Dry Moly Application

Dry Film Moly has a resin binder to hold it in place until it gets worked in, usually on cam followers, latches and slides. It is mostly used for roller chain lubrication that will not attract lint or dust in textile machine applications.
Alternately, you could apply Molykote Z Powder on spring leaves and burnish it into the steel, or use
G-N Paste which is 50/50 Moly and oil, but is very messy. Use this on camshafts and lifters.
Moly works best when applied in several applications, always working it into the surfaces between coats.
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Old 01-05-2015, 06:46 PM   #6
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Default Re: Slip Plate/Dry Moly Application

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Whatever you use will be messy most likely, like others have said paint the bottom of each leaf so the excess goo dosnt show. Also unless your car/frame is fully ready for the front or rear axle to be immediately put under it every time you go near the spring and happen to brush it with your pants its going to spread all over the place...you will think you wiped all the excess off but im sure there will be just enough to get spread everywhere...
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Old 01-05-2015, 07:34 PM   #7
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Default Re: Slip Plate/Dry Moly Application

If you go the Slip Plate method which I highly recommend get the quart can from NAPA and use a small roller to apply. I like the way it coats. I just do the underside and then paint the top and sides when done. Beveling the ends is also important.
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:37 PM   #8
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Default Re: Slip Plate/Dry Moly Application

I make my own; 1/2 pt black rustolum enamel and as much flake graphite as it will hold and still paint on. I only paint the bottom of the leaf. The half-pint should do more then a couple of springs.
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