F150 tranny with overdrive

[Ray A from PA]

Tell me more about the F150 tranny with overdrive. What year, how much is involved to install, what has to be done to it, who does the preperation, and whatever else one should know if they are interested in installing it. Thanks Ray

[Logan]

Your gonna have to make an adapter plate, cut part of the cross member, shorten the drive shaft, cut new hole in floorboard for shifter, and im sure im forgetting one or two other little things. But its well worth all the work. With a good engine there is no reason why you couldnt run at 60-65 mph.

[Logan]

And gary bernard from ft.worth makes an excelent conversion kit. There is atleast 50 of his transmitions running around Dallas & Ft. worth and havent heard a complaint yet

[john in illinois]

Dave Delmue makes a drop in kit. No cutting of crossmember,or cutting of brake cross shaft. He uses an AA bellhousing which is shorter. He supplies every part ready to bolt in. I have one and really like it. Available in several overdrive ratios. I have a 23%.

http://modelaonly.com/home

[john in illinois]

Here is a try at a photo

[MAG]

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I installed one in my 30 Town Sedan and like it very much. In spite of what you hear, if a AA Bell Housing is used, no cuts are required on the crossmember. No modification of the brakes. The rear radius rods, drive shaft and torque tube must be shortened approximately 1 1/2 inches. considerable machine work and fabrication is required. If a kit with every thing requied is available it would make the job a lot easier.

[Alan Riordan]

have one of daves conversions in a 36 phaeton, very pleased with it.

[AL in NY]

To answer your question, the transmission you are looking for is out of an 84-87 Ford F150 2WD pickup with an inline 6 or small V8. It has a floor mounted shifter and the shift knob will have "OD" where the normal "4" would be in a normal "H" pattern 4 speed. Secondly, look at the left side of the transmission case. There should be a casting number "260XXXX". Third, on the right side of the transmission there should be a riveted metal tag with the first three letters "RTS" followed by two letters which will identify the OD ratio. See my chart below for the decoding.............Go to post #245 for missing photos

[Kirby1374]

after reading the info and looking at the F150 trans installed I don't know which way I want to go. T5 or the ford tranny. Has anyone driven both? I mean driven one with the T5 and then one with the Ford. It sounds like the same amount of money. I know the guys on the HAMB favor the T5 and several Model A Tourers (is that a word?) prefer the Ford. Does the T5 have more of a high performance car feel vs. the Ford?
Thanks,

[Kirby1374]

Logan, do you have Gary Bernard's contact info?
Thanks
Aaron

[Kirby1374]

Originally Posted by MAG

I installed one in my 30 Town Sedan and like it very much. In spite of what you hear, if a AA Bell Housing is used, no cuts are required on the crossmember. No modification of the brakes. The rear radius rods, drive shaft and torque tube must be shortened approximately 1 1/2 inches. considerable machine work and fabrication is required. If a kit with every thing requied is available it would make the job a lot easier.

Mag, What clutch/flywheel did you use?

[Logan]

Originally Posted by Kirby1374

Logan, do you have Gary Bernard's contact info?
Thanks
Aaron

If you email me at [email protected] i will give it to you

[MAG]

Originally Posted by Kirby1374

Mag, What clutch/flywheel did you use?

Kirby,
AA Bell housing, AA Throw-out Arm, AA Throw-out Collar, Model A Throw-out Bearing, Model A Flywheel, Model A Pilot Bearing, Model A Clutch Assembly, 49 Ford Clutch Plate, Model A U-joint,, Model A Gear Shift Lever.

[Kirby1374]

Originally Posted by MAG

Kirby,
AA Bell housing, AA Throw-out Arm, AA Throw-out Collar, Model A Throw-out Bearing, Model A Flywheel, Model A Pilot Bearing, Model A Clutch Assembly, 49 Ford Clutch Plate, Model A U-joint,, Model A Gear Shift Lever.

Thanks!

[AL in NY]

There are three fellows that make a bolt-in kit for the F150 OD conversion, Ken Parker, Dave Delmue and Gary Bernard. All three make a quality kit which comes with all parts needed for a bolt-in installation. Kits vary in price depending on the source, but generally the price is around $2800.00 plus or minus. Both Ken and Dave make kits using the "AA" bell housing. This keeps the new transmission in front of the brake cross-shaft and the mid-frame crossmember so there are no modifications to the cross-shaft and the crossmember only needs a very slight notch for clearance. Gary Bernard's kit uses the standard Model A bell housing which places the new transmission further back and requires a highly modified brake cross-shaft and the frame cross member has to be notched quiet a bit. All three kits require the driveshaft, torque tube and radius rods to be shorten. Ken Parker is in Van, TX, Dave Delmue is in San Jose, CA and Gary Bernard is in Ft. Worth, TX. If you would like any of their contact information, please email me............

[steve s]

Originally Posted by Kirby1374

after reading the info and looking at the F150 trans installed I don't know which way I want to go. T5 or the ford tranny. Has anyone driven both? I mean driven one with the T5 and then one with the Ford. It sounds like the same amount of money. I know the guys on the HAMB favor the T5 and several Model A Tourers (is that a word?) prefer the Ford. Does the T5 have more of a high performance car feel vs. the Ford?
Thanks,

I and several friends have the F150 and all love it. Another friend has the T5 and loves it. The major downside to the T5 I have heard is that it requires a brake modification; the brake mod that comes with the kit is reported to be woefully inadequate, such that you really must convert to hydraulics. If you haven't already done that and don't want to, my understanding is that the F150 is the way to go.

The other major T5 concern is the absence of the torque tube, which some feel plays a crucial structural role. On the other hand, T5'ers are happy.

My only regret about my F150 is that 1st and 2nd gear are the same as Model A stock; I wish they were higher. But, if I were seriously interested in optimizing gear ratios, I would have gotten a Mitchell gear splitter OD and had 6 gear ratios to play with--too many levers for my taste.

Steve

[Kirby1374]

Originally Posted by steve s

I and several friends have the F150 and all love it. Another friend has the T5 and loves it. The major downside to the T5 I have heard is that it requires a brake modification; the brake mod that comes with the kit is reported to be woefully inadequate, such that you really must convert to hydraulics. If you haven't already done that and don't want to, my understanding is that the F150 is the way to go.

The other major T5 concern is the absence of the torque tube, which some feel plays a crucial structural role. On the other hand, T5'ers are happy.

My only regret about my F150 is that 1st and 2nd gear are the same as Model A stock; I wish they were higher. But, if I were seriously interested in optimizing gear ratios, I would have gotten a Mitchell gear splitter OD and had 6 gear ratios to play with--too many levers for my taste.

Steve

Thanks Steve. Sounds like then the T5 offers a little more as far as gear ratios are concerned.

[john in illinois]

there are two first gear ratios for F150's.One is higher than stock model A. I have heard that first gear in a T-5 is too low for normal use,but I haven't driven one.Lots of variables.

[Ray A from PA]

Thanks to all that took the time to answer my new thread on the F150 transmission. This Forum sure is full of QUALITY information for the asking. I have a lot of information to sift through before making a decision on which way to go. Thanks to all that gave me a piece of your thoughts.

[steve s]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

there are two first gear ratios for F150's.One is higher than stock model A. I have heard that first gear in a T-5 is too low for normal use,but I haven't driven one.Lots of variables.

AL's table was news to me. Great info, first time I've seen it in any of the many many F150 threads we've had over the years. However, it looks like the higher 1st/2nd ratios also give 38% OD--yikes! I've got a Brumfield head, but still, that seems pretty steep for a town sedan.

My recollection is that there are MANY gear sets available for the T5, but, then, consider the source. The low low would be dandy for parades, if that's your thing. Smart to keep researching.

Steve

[AL in NY]

Nice input on the differences between the T-5 and the F150. Too many other modifications to perform just to gain OD. Like you said, if you remove the torque tube, you have to add something to control the acceleration and braking torque of the rear axle.

[modelaonly.com]

modelaonly.com bolt in kit

[dmaxweb]

Originally Posted by modelaonly.com

modelaonly.com bolt in kit

When installing your kit, do you need to shorten the driveshaft, torque tube and radius rods?

[AL in NY]

All F150 installs require the torque tube, driveshaft and radius rods to be shorten. In all the three kits mentioned above, those items are included with the kit.

[dmaxweb]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

Nice input on the differences between the T-5 and the F150. Too many other modifications to perform just to gain OD. Like you said, if you remove the torque tube, you have to add something to control the acceleration and braking torque of the rear axle.

From all I have read here, the Mitchell Overdrive sounds like an easer way to go.

[trctrdr]

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I started gathering parts for the 150 transmission install a while back. I now have a couple of RTS boxs, had a friend with a good machine shop shorten the mainshaft. I shortened the drive shaft and torque tube, today ordered a pair of rear radius rods to get ready to shorten. I also have the rear adapter plate made and a AA bell housing mounted to the front of one of the boxes. Only thing I don't have done is to concoct a throw out bearing.
I'm using a lightened flywheel and a 86 t-bird clutch assy. Anyone know what to do for the T.O. bearing? I understand somehow you mate the rear part of a model A hub to the front of a t-bird T.O. brg. I'd love to see a pic or drawing of this mod.
Any help would be appreciated.
Mark

[CarlG]

Get in touch with Jim Parker Toronto on here -- he has completed this exact install.

[Kahuna]

Just an FYI for you guys. Al is correct on the Ford F-150's, but Ford also installed a lot of them in the same year vans: E-150, I think is the corect term.
Jim

[pick]

I have the Ford unit. It's great! I have also driven the S10 T5. I prefer the Ford as it does not require cutting of brake cross shaft & maintains the torque tube. Also the T5 has too low of a 1st gear and only provides over drive in the high teens vs. the Ford's 23 or 28 percnet.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

I put the F150 in my new car, with lots of help here, especially Al in NY, and LOVE IT. speeds of 60-65 all day long at 2150 RPM. Gave me 27 Miles per Gallon, Canadian, on a recent 355 mile trip. Sinkromesh (sp) gears all around, and it shifts nice........

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

Dave Delmue makes a drop in kit. No cutting of crossmember,or cutting of brake cross shaft. He uses an AA bellhousing which is shorter. He supplies every part ready to bolt in. I have one and really like it. Available in several overdrive ratios. I have a 23%.

http://modelaonly.com/home

I'm sure Dave makes a good kit, I just wish he'd ship me the one I paid for 9 months ago.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

[ 06-24-2010, 04:01 PM ] This is the date on ModelAOnly's last post. Did I not read somewhere that you got your money back CarlG???

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Jim Parker Toronto

[ 06-24-2010, 04:01 PM ] This is the date on ModelAOnly's last post. Did I not read somewhere that you got your money back CarlG???

No tranny, no money, and now his web site is down. It's not looking good! It's going to take me quite a while to recover (financially and emotionally) from this fiasco.

[Jordan]

All i can say, is if i was given an option of having a model a with an overdrive, verses one without, I would hands down choose the one with the overdrive. They are so much nicer to drive at high speeds, and really just make a whole world of difference in an A. The 4 speed by gary Bernard is the best you can buy. I've never heard of anyone having a problem, and i know he's sold some to people before with the AA housings. You just have to ask if he has any. The 4 speeds are nice because now anyone can drive the car without grinding the gears.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Jim Parker Toronto

[ 06-24-2010, 04:01 PM ] This is the date on ModelAOnly's last post...

Actually, he had 13 posts in March of 2011 -- right before he went missing.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Jordan

All i can say, is if i was given an option of having a model a with an overdrive, verses one without, I would hands down choose the one with the overdrive. They are so much nicer to drive at high speeds, and really just make a whole world of difference in an A. The 4 speed by gary Bernard is the best you can buy. I've never heard of anyone having a problem, and i know he's sold some to people before with the AA housings. You just have to ask if he has any. The 4 speeds are nice because now anyone can drive the car without grinding the gears.

This is the ONE mod I had decided I had to have -- way before I bought my truck. I will get there, I will just have to wait a while longer than I planned on.

[bdotson]

So what is the diffrence between a standard A and the AA bellhousing? Could one be modified? Could you have one made? Anyone explored these options?

[roddyb34]

The AA B/H is shorter so the trans is further forward for better stick position ,but it has no pedal mount so this has to be fabricated ,is the clutch fork different to A type ?,i was thinking of doing a 3 speed mustang type trans ,no O/D ,either trans is hard to get in Australia ,Macs in New Zealand make the correct B/H for the conv.with pedal mount and you dont shorten the input shaft,,

[bdotson]

OK how much shorter is the bell housing on the AA as compaired to the A? Useing the AA housing would move the trans forward by how much? What is the A bellhousing made from is it Cast iron? Could a new one be made from steel? I am asking because I dont know and am intrested in this conversion. If you have the AA bell housing do you have to shorten the input shaft on the transmission? If so how much do you have to respline the input and remachine the tip for the pilot bushing?

[trctrdr]

I have the short AA bell housing, although it's not yet installed, it looks like it will only require the pilot be shortened about a half inch.. This transmission has about i 3/16 inch pilot past the spline so I don't think any re-spline is needed. May need to just shorten the spline a little. When I get to that point I'll mount the trans. behind the engine without the clutch assy. to check this.

[bdotson]

Originally Posted by trctrdr

I have the short AA bell housing, although it's not yet installed, it looks like it will only require the pilot be shortened about a half inch.. This transmission has about i 3/16 inch pilot past the spline so I don't think any re-spline is needed. May need to just shorten the spline a little. When I get to that point I'll mount the trans. behind the engine without the clutch assy. to check this.

How much diffrence in the two bell housings?

[mrtexas]

Ken Parker told me the whole process in detail. Wow, lots of machine work and very exacting. After I heard the process I sold the unaltered transmission I'd bought to modify. $3,000 is a bargain.

I eventually installed a Mitchell overdrive. I got a deal from a forum member where all the assembly had been done with the rear end and radius rods included. I dropped it right in. I love it.

[Jason in TX]

Not to throw a wrench in the works, but I just wanted to bring up another overdrive option.

With the adaptor from Klings, you can put a 36-39 transmission behind your A that has synchromesh for around $600-800. No more grinding gears. Then behind that put a Volvo overdrive spliced into the torque tube for $1500. This combination is almost $1000 cheaper and does not require cutting the frame.

With the Ford OD, you are limited to 4 gears. With a non overdrive transmission and an overdrive in the torque tube, you actually have 6 gears since you can shift 1st, 1st with overdrive, 2nd, 2nd with overdrive, 3rd and 3rd with overdrive. When climbing a hill last week following a convoy of Model As driving 25 miles an hour, I was really happy to have 2nd with overdrive. It was less than 3rd gear, but stronger than 2nd. The car didn't lug but also stayed at low RPM. Just another thought.

[trctrdr]

I don't have a car bell housing handy to measure but the AA truck housing is 5 3/8 inch overall length.

[roddyb34]

The A Car B/H looks to be 7 and 5 eights,,,,the AA is configured similar to late Ford toploaders with about 5 eights of an inch needed to be trimmed from input shaft when using 3 or 4 speed toploaders or the F150 trans the AA has a nicer mounting surface for the trans.i was keen to use the O/D F150 but they are hard to find in Australia so am going to use a 3 speed toploader hope to find one rejected from an imported mustang just to smooth the operaration ,i have a 3 speed jeep shift and a chunky output shaft to respline just need a trans.what is annoying is 3 speeds are advertised from $40 up in the US but thats not here ,,,,

[steve s]

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Originally Posted by Jason in TX

... When climbing a hill last week following a convoy of Model As driving 25 miles an hour, I was really happy to have 2nd with overdrive. It was less than 3rd gear, but stronger than 2nd. The car didn't lug but also stayed at low RPM. Just another thought.

I agree with Jason. I like my 150 trans but would like it even more if 2nd gear were higher. I really could have used it in the hills of WV when we went to the Williamsburg meet. It wouldn't hurt if 1st were higher too, but 2nd is really needed. With my 150, 1st and 2nd are the same as stock A. I think there are other gear options available.

The Mitchell OD gives you lots of options but then you've got two shifter levers to deal with.

Steve

[PetesPonies]

There are several versions of the T5 and each has different ratios. You have choices of 2.95, 3.35, 3.5, 3.97 and 4.03 as first gear ratios. Some are easier to find than others, but still all exist.

[callcoy]

The T-5 trans can be installed in an A and still use the original closed drive line. There is a kit available thru Steve Serr at Miller High Speed Heads, that provides a brand new bell housing and special rear adapter to convert a 4whl. drive version of the T-5 to closed drive line. Yes it does require the crossmember to be notched for the shift tower. I can not comment on interference with the brake cross shaft, as I moved the member one set of holes to the rear. My project truck came with hyd. brakes started and without any mech. brakes, I just stayed with the hyd. system. I think that you should contact Steve Serr to get answers to your questions.

My installation is not what most individuals would probably do as I am in a frame off situation and require a lower O/D ratio and because of the extra weight of my panel delivery. I need for full syncro., lack of extra levers, easier to use clutch (V-8) for my wife's limitations has resulted in this setup. By the way there are 265 models of the T-5, with O/D's from 18% to 67%. The early models refered to as "non-world class" are just fine for Model A's, gear ratios can be swapped around but I am not qualified to advise about that option.

[trctrdr]

While on the subject of ratios, there are three overdrive ratios for the Ford transmission, 26.7%, 37.9% and 41.1%. I have a 26 and a 41, I think the 41 would be too high, so I'm probable going with the 26. Any opinions?

[John LaVoy]

We are working towards installation of a T-5 into the sedan. There is another kit being worked on and as soon as they have things perfected we agreed to install one for the trip to Michigan next year. This kit is suppose to install with out cutting the frame. We will post something as soon as we get our transmission and kit.

[dfish2931nc]

That is if you ever get it from him. Many "Barners" are still waiting for for him to show up. He gets the money from you and disappears. Luckly I paid by PayPal and got my money back. BE CAREFUL OF HIM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by dfish2931nc

That is if you ever get it from him. Many "Barners" are still waiting for for him to show up. He gets the money from you and disappears. Luckly I paid by PayPal and got my money back. BE CAREFUL OF HIM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You might indicate who "him" is.

[steve s]

Originally Posted by trctrdr

While on the subject of ratios, there are three overdrive ratios for the Ford transmission, 26.7%, 37.9% and 41.1%. I have a 26 and a 41, I think the 41 would be too high, so I'm probable going with the 26. Any opinions?

I'm sure glad I don't have the 41 in mine. It might be ok in a real light model, or coupled with a 4.11 rear end, but too steep for a town sedan even in the flat lands, IMHO.

Steve

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Jeeze, if we are talking $3k now, I can install a new Mitchell synchro-ed transmission with a faster 2nd gear ratio, and a 3.27 gear ratio in a fine - point car and do everything you guys are doing and still look 110% stock.

[Dave in Boise]

Modelaonly.. Your website appears to be down..

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Dave in Boise

Modelaonly.. Your website appears to be down..

Phone is disconnected also.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Originally Posted by trctrdr

While on the subject of ratios, there are three overdrive ratios for the Ford transmission, 26.7%, 37.9% and 41.1%. I have a 26 and a 41, I think the 41 would be too high, so I'm probable going with the 26. Any opinions?

The 27% is the one I have in a Fordor. It works fine! 63mph, or 100 kilometers at 2150 rpm.

[trctrdr]

The 26 it is.
By the way, if anyone needs a V8 clutch, it's exactly the same as the one used in an older Ford tractor (8N, 9N, 600, and 800) The part numbers are 91A7563 pressure plate, 8N 7550 clutch plate, C5NN7600 pilot bearing and C0NN7580A T.O. bearing. These parts are readily available from any Ford (New Holland) tractor dealer. I have one in my 29 coupe now and it works great.

[40 Deluxe]

Well, not quite the same! V8 pressure plates have the centrifugal weights on the fingers to add clamping force as the RPM's go up. You can notice this in a V8 car or pickup by revving the engine with the clutch pedal held down. As the RPM goes up you can feel the clutch pedal push back harder. Tractors had no need for these wieghts as they were half the power of a V8 and only ran at 1600-1800 or so RPM.

[wensum]

Hi there,
Mac's Speed Shop in New Zealand makes a alloy bell housing for this gearbox and I believe they are available in the States?
We have done away with the torque tube and use an open prop shaft, but then you have to deal with the radius rods and possibly fit a torque arm to resist the diff's attempt to rotate
Keith

[roddyb34]

Macs in New Zealand makes an excellent B/H and is the correct dimension so you dont cut your input shaft ,Graeme is very helpfull when you ring and has the F150 trans on open drive set up in his Riley OHV powered pick up ,check his website WWWmacspeed.com

[trctrdr]

Correction,,, actually the 91A7563 has the weights, the 8N or 9N 7563 do not. The 91A7563 is listed as a heavy duty replacement for these tractors.

[Deuce Man]

Shifter on the rts is closest to original. The t5 comes up through the floor quite a way farther aft. Rich

[trctrdr]

How do you measure RPM while in motion, do you have a dash mounted tach. or some other way? If so what drives the tach.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Yes, I have a steering column mounted 0 - 4000 Sun Tach. It seems to be accurate. Electric, off the coil.

[Jamie86]

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I just wanted to thank Al in NY for the chart on the F150 transmission.

[RB35]

I have an '86 F-150 OD aluminum case tranny for sale. I had it behind a flathead and went to a t-5. PM me if interested.
Richard

[kenparker]

trctrdr. i am one of the kit builders Al in NY mentioned. Name is Ken Parker. If you will call me or email me I can give you the info you need to "fix" the input shaft and the throwout hub. [email protected] or call 903-963-1650.

[amedic]

You want the T170FT CODE RTS. ...You will not disappointed! No modifications required to the cross member or brakes!!!

The best choice by far!!!

[MurphyJ]

Another source for a Ford F-150 OD transmission is Sheridan's Repair in Nunica, Michigan. Call Tim Sheridan at 616-836-6477. His is a "drop in"
tansmission, not a kit, that does not require any cutting of the center cross member. Tim has made and sold his conversion for a number of years. I purchased and installed one earlier this year and am quite pleased with it. Tim explained to me that there are 3 different OD ratios that Ford offered with these transmissions and I strongly recommend that if you purchase one get the OD gear ratio that best suits your engine and your normal driving conditions. If you live in hilly or mountain region you would not want the highest OD gear ratio available as it could result in lugging your engine too much. Sheridan transmission conversions use the standard Model A bell housing.

[nick c]

Could someone explain how to determine the different OD ratios by looking at the metal tag on the right side of the tranny?
thanks nick

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Originally Posted by nick c

Could someone explain how to determine the different OD ratios by looking at the metal tag on the right side of the tranny?
thanks nick

Go back to the chart from Al in NY...... Post # 8. That's my transmission RTS BV. Find that on the chart, and then go across and look at the numbers.

[AL in NY]

MurphyJ, it's not possible to install an F150 transmission in a Model A using the standard Model A bell housing and NOT modify the crossmember and brake cross shaft. I think you mean that Tim sells his kits using the Model AA bell housing, which then make sense.

[MurphyJ]

Thanks Al, but recently did install one of Sheridan's F150 tansmissions in my 1930 Model a pickup without having to us a AA bell housing or modify the crossmenber. Granted it is a tight fit between the rear of the tansmission and the crossmember but no mods to the crossmeber were needed. I did have to shorten the drive shaft, torque tube and radius rods and a slight alteration of the brake crossover shaft, and that was all.
I have a couple of photos that I can share if you or anyone would like to see.

[AL in NY]

MurphyJ, Yes, please post. Would like to see how you did your install.

[steve s]

Originally Posted by MurphyJ

Thanks Al, but recently did install one of Sheridan's F150 tansmissions in my 1930 Model a pickup without having to us a AA bell housing or modify the crossmenber. Granted it is a tight fit between the rear of the tansmission and the crossmember but no mods to the crossmeber were needed. I did have to shorten the drive shaft, torque tube and radius rods and a slight alteration of the brake crossover shaft, and that was all.
I have a couple of photos that I can share if you or anyone would like to see.

I too would like to see pictures. If the drive shaft was shortened, it means some big stuff was moved back--I wonder how. There wouldn't have been much room for the U-joint in my car.

Steve

[steve s]

Originally Posted by nick c

Could someone explain how to determine the different OD ratios by looking at the metal tag on the right side of the tranny?
thanks nick

I'm not sure, but I think this is the table for the F-150 trans we're dealing with:

[MurphyJ]

Below are some photos of the Sheridan F-150 OD transmission I recently installed. Keep in mind that I purchased only the tansmission from Tim Sheridan, not a kit. I specifically did not want to cut or modify the cross member. Also, if I or a future buyer wants to reverse the OD transmission and return to the original transmission set up, it is possible. Upon receipt of the transmission, I had to shorten the torque tube, drive shaft and radius rods, all approx 4 1/2 inches, working with a local one man machine shop. All the labor of the installation I did with the help of another shade tree mechanic. The first photo shows the transmission installed between the cross member and the "A" bell housing. Photo 2 shows the slight interference between a bottom bolt and the brake cross over shaft. Photo 3 shows how that interference was eliminated by altering the brake cross over shaft.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Yes, that would be the correct table to look at when you are going by the tag. My tag said RTS BV, as posted in reply #8 of this thread. So then it would be in the first group "302 V8, Trans ID RTS-" and then follow down to the "BV". This would in no way mean that someone has not changed the gears inside, but could be used as an indicator.

[CarlG]

My tranny does not have the tag on it, but I have been told (by the builder) that the gear ratios that are in there are: 1-3.25, 2-1.92, 3-1.00, 4-0.78, R-3.25. Don't really know if that is what this particular tranny had in it originally or not, but that's what's in it now. Per the builder, this is what is optimum for use in a Model A. This is also the same as what Jim Parker has in his.

[kenparker]

MurphyJ, Am I missing something? Your pictures do not show up. I too are interested in how you installed yours. Ken

[kenparker]

Picture of the F150 Od tranny installed in my open/test chassi. Please pardon the cloudy pix. One can see the small notch cut into the lip of the center cross member. Ken

[MurphyJ]

Sorry Ken, was worried about photos going through. Will see where I errored and try again.

[roddyb34]

,,does any one have one of these trans.that they can measure the main case for me ,thanks,,are they 9and 3 quarter inches?

[MurphyJ]

Back today with photos of the Sheridan Ford OD transmission installed in my 30 pickup.
Many thanks to Ken Parker's assistance.

[nick c]

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The length of the case is 10 1/8"
carry on
nick c

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Boy, with all the attention this Tremac RTS transmission receives from Model A people, I am sure that other people have been using them too. My thoughts are, "How many did Ford have made?, and "How many are left out there to be found?" Any ideas???

[CarlG]

Now if someone would come up with a 4WD conversion ??????

[Jamie86]

Jim Parker Toronto,
Are you looking for a RTS transmission ? I might be able to help you out.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

I'm always looking! Jim

[trctrdr]

Anyone have a photo of the throw-out return spring arrangement? The instructions I have say to hook it over the lower opening of the inspection hole. Seems that would be pulling it up as much as back. Anyone come up with a better arrangement?
Oh and I do have an extra RTS transmission, unfortunitly it's 41% O.D. It's already apart so would be easy to ship.
M&M

[brokenspoke]

Originally Posted by steve s

I and several friends have the F150 and all love it. Another friend has the T5 and loves it. The major downside to the T5 I have heard is that it requires a brake modification; the brake mod that comes with the kit is reported to be woefully inadequate, such that you really must convert to hydraulics. If you haven't already done that and don't want to, my understanding is that the F150 is the way to go.

The other major T5 concern is the absence of the torque tube, which some feel plays a crucial structural role. On the other hand, T5'ers are happy.

My only regret about my F150 is that 1st and 2nd gear are the same as Model A stock; I wish they were higher. But, if I were seriously interested in optimizing gear ratios, I would have gotten a Mitchell gear splitter OD and had 6 gear ratios to play with--too many levers for my taste.

Steve

I used a T-5 out of a 4 wheel drive S10 and kept the torque tube....

[Hank1]

Originally Posted by RB35

I have an '86 F-150 OD aluminum case tranny for sale. I had it behind a flathead and went to a t-5. PM me if interested.
Richard

does it have Id number on the side where rts is. and what are you asking for it.

[trctrdr]

I was wondering if anyone has found a source for floor mats without the hales pre-punched. I have e-mailed Snyders to see if they could special order one for me.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by trctrdr

I was wondering if anyone has found a source for floor mats without the hales pre-punched. I have e-mailed Snyders to see if they could special order one for me.

I haven't checked on floor mats for years, but I think Mac's used to sell them with the hole in a specific location, so you needed to specify where your E-brake was located.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

All F150 installs require the torque tube, driveshaft and radius rods to be shorten. In all the three kits mentioned above, those items are included with the kit.

Just to claify, are you saying the in the kit COMES a Modified Drive shaft, torque tube and radius rod??

thanks

[AL in NY]

Yes, all of the kit makers included the modified (shortened) torque tube, driveshaft and radius rods.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

Yes, all of the kit makers included the modified (shortened) torque tube, driveshaft and radius rods.

If I understand 4th is actually the overdrive gear. So we have 3 synchro gears and an overdrive all in 1 unit. ? This would eliminate the need for the mitchell overdrive. Am I correct?

[30modelA]

seems like it would be easier to use a smaller tranny like out of a pinto of something. f150 seems over kill

[1931 flamingo]

msmaron: Correct.
Paul in CT

[Jordan]

Drove the sedan today for the first time with the 4 speed. Im in love.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

msmaron: Correct.
Paul in CT

More outstanding than I thought. Thank you.

[john in illinois]

Here is a pic of my F150 with AA bellhousing. No cutting of crossmember.

I fabricated the rear mount to isolate it from the crossmember.

[CarlG]

Is there a rubber pad under that black flat piece? or how did you accomplish that?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Jordan

Drove the sedan today for the first time with the 4 speed. Im in love.

Do you have any idea how much actual time this took from start to finish? Any pictures of your "transformation". I'm going to be starting mine soonly.

[400A-64]

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My mitchell is behind a "39" transmission Great combination.. I have over 85 thousand miles on it !! I would not change a thing....
Bruce Davis [email protected]

[Jamie86]

john in illinois;379565 Here is a pic of my F150 with AA bell housing. No cutting of crossmember.

I fabricated the rear mount to isolate it from the crossmember.QUOTE

That looks like a good idea that you have done to help support the back of the transmission. Looks like you did a great job on it too.
Ken Parker of Van,TX did something similar to yours, but it supported by lip of the crossmember. He did it off the back of the transmission with two " L " pieces that are adjustable with rubber pads.

[PetesPonies]

Anyone have an experience with any of Ford's other SROD 4 speed transmissions?? These are also 4 speed OD types. They came in '80- up Ford trucks and in Mustangs ( though a slightly different SROD ).

[roddyb34]

The Single Rail Over Drive trans shares the same internals as the f150 type but you need the shifter on top to look any good in an A ,and i dont think you can adapt a jeep type shift to it ,,

[kenparker]

The Ford SROD from mid '70's to mid '80's can be fitted to a Model A. I have one in my Speedster. The shift lever is mounted on the tailhousing, so it sits up to 6" further back. There are several versions and where the shifter is mounted on the tailhouse varies. I have found only two % of OD - the 37% and 41%. I dont think they have a 26%.

Not all the internals are the same. The output and input shaft and bearings are different, so it is almost impossible to get the 26% by changing internals.

Since shifter is on tailhouse, thus using the long original tailshaft, you must use an open driveline. I will try to get pictures of my Speedster shifter and driveline when the sun comes out.

[George Miller]

I did my own years ago, used a AA bell housing no cutting to frame or brakes. There is a lot of machining not a job for the back yard. You will like it if you buy one, plus your car still looks close to stock.

[AL in NY]

I also did the F150 install myself four years ago and used the AA bellhousing. I never could get the hang of downshifting a Model A, that was one of my reasons for installing it. The second reason was this transmission makes driving in busy downtown traffic MUCH easier because you are not the slowest vehicle out there and you can shift quickly reguardless of the engine RPM. Third reason was the OD fourth gear. I can cruise at 55-60 MPH without the engine screaming. IMHO, a very good upgrade for a "driver" Model A.

[chiliman]

Hi guys have installed the f-150 trans took it on a test run I thibk it will be great I havent hooked speedometor up yet have the new housing will have to jb weld the outher end that screws on the speedometor and get a cable made at speedometor shop how have you guys done it what gear teeth do you go in the transmison with I have a couple differnt teeth thanks guys

[msmaron]

does anyone sell floor board patters to start with, then the hole can be adapted to where is is needed?

[CarlG]

I plan on using my old floorboard for a pattern and moving the hole back however far I need to. I presume that is what others have done.

ANYONE?

[Logan]

I just cover the original hole with a piece of sheet metal, and screw it to the wood. Simple and quick.

[Jamie86]

Originally Posted by chiliman

Hi guys have installed the f-150 trans took it on a test run I thibk it will be great I havent hooked speedometor up yet have the new housing will have to jb weld the outher end that screws on the speedometor and get a cable made at speedometor shop how have you guys done it what gear teeth do you go in the transmison with I have a couple differnt teeth thanks guys

I don't understand why you would need to jb weld speedometer housing to make it work. The gear in the speedometer housing would depend on the rear end ratio and your tire size. Such as 3:78 would use a 19 tooth gear.

[chiliman]

Jamie the cable housing that I have is made for the f-1oo which the end that goes on the transmision is fine but the head must be cut off that goes on the back of the speedometor so you can use the nut that screws on the back of the speedometor and a longer cable will have to be facacated at a speedometor shop a bout 20 bucks so im told how is yours done thanks

[Jamie86]

chiliman,
Take a look at Post # 6 on this subject it will show the backing plate and the torque tube is hooked up there. Speedometer cable is hooked up the same way it is on the original transmission. The only difference is the torque tube must be shortened along with the radius rods for it to work with the new F150 conversion.

[chiliman]

Jamie woops forgot to say I went with a open drive shaft a fellow in local club makes a nice set up so I still have the tail shaft and reqires to modify the f-100 cable thanks any way

[trctrdr]

For anyone interested,,, Snyders has provided for me a floor mat for my 29 coupe that hasn't been trimmed, they special ordered it from the manufacturer. There are no holes cut and the outside edges haven't been trimmed.
I have my install complete, have been driving it for a couple of weeks and love it. The transmission along with a new Mel Gross steering box has made it into a different car.

[AL in NY]

Thanks trctrdr, I have been trying to do this very thing but hadn't found a vendor (or manufacturer) that was willing to make a mat without the holes cut for the shifter tower and E-brake. I just sent a email to Snyder's asking for the same mat that you special ordered. Maybe they will make it a catalogue item.

[Jamie86]

Originally Posted by trctrdr

For anyone interested,,, Snyders has provided for me a floor mat for my 29 coupe that hasn't been trimmed, they special ordered it from the manufacturer. There are no holes cut and the outside edges haven't been trimmed.
I have my install complete, have been driving it for a couple of weeks and love it. The transmission along with a new Mel Gross steering box has made it into a different car.

trctrdr,
I just wanted to thank you for letting us know. We are getting ready to put a rebuilt motor and F150 transmission conversion in a 1930 Coupe asap. We need a new floor mat, so this is good to know.

[PetesPonies]

Al, that's a great looking conversion as well.

[bettlesr]

Originally Posted by MurphyJ

Another source for a Ford F-150 OD transmission is Sheridan's Repair in Nunica, Michigan. Call Tim Sheridan at 616-836-6477. His is a "drop in"
tansmission, not a kit, that does not require any cutting of the center cross member. Tim has made and sold his conversion for a number of years. I purchased and installed one earlier this year and am quite pleased with it. Tim explained to me that there are 3 different OD ratios that Ford offered with these transmissions and I strongly recommend that if you purchase one get the OD gear ratio that best suits your engine and your normal driving conditions. If you live in hilly or mountain region you would not want the highest OD gear ratio available as it could result in lugging your engine too much. Sheridan transmission conversions use the standard Model A bell housing.

Tim Sheridan's number is 616-837-6477 not 616-836-6477

[Phil Wilson]

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Do any of these conversion kits work with an Early '28 that has the "dog-bone" split braking system installed? I have a Tudor with the single plate clutch assembly installed, however, it still retains the early " no-E brake" AR brake system.
I'm researching the idea, just to see if it works for this Tudor. Thanks, Phil

[Duffy1]

Steve ; You need to do some serious investigation as it relates to the gear ratio`s if you go with the f-150 . As posted earlier my 31 sw with b engine and f-150 trans likes to run 55-60 . When I go on a tour with my club they run about 45 . At that speed I am continually having to shift back and forth from 4th ( od ) to 3rd ,3rd to 4th when the slow down a little or we get into some hills.I also heard that f-150 trans are becoming harder and harder to find .I do like the synchronization .

[PetesPonies]

So how about a 3 speed truck trans?? Zillions of them out there. They are very short with a short tailhousing. Anyone used one or heard of it?? Sure no OD, but a nice synchronized trans.

[miss victoria]

Duffy what gear set do you have?

[AL in NY]

This best gearset for a Model A conversion is out of a 302-V8 powered 83-87 2WD Ford F150. See post #8 in this thread for a decoding chart. The ratios for that transmission are 3.25, 1.92, 1.00, 0.78(26.7% OD). Very close to the stock Model A transmission in gears 1st, 2nd and 3rd.

[miss victoria]

Thanks al im tired of beating an old horse!

[chiliman]

what clutch disk is used in this application part number would sure help me out all that im finding they want to sell kit with presser plate one place wants 150 just for thedisk thanks for information

[Jim Parker Toronto]

I am using one from a 1986 Ford T-bird 2.3L 4 cylinder turbo. 1 1/16" x 10 spline. Works great in mine! Got the whole setup, clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing, only throw the throw out away! Won't fit....

[Bassman/NZ]

What does it take to bolt the torque tube cups to the back of the F150 trans? Is it an adapter plate?

[Bob C]

Looks like this.

[Duffy1]

Make sure you get the 23% od . not the 37 % or 41% .especially if you drive where there are hills.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by PetesPonies

There are several versions of the T5 and each has different ratios. You have choices of 2.95, 3.35, 3.5, 3.97 and 4.03 as first gear ratios. Some are easier to find than others, but still all exist.

Actually there are way more ratios than most people realize.
You can have just about any available gear ratio in any gear of the transmission.
The easiest way is to go to a transmission shop and talk to them about ratios.
It's like ordering a custom made sports car. You need to know what type of driving you intend to do primarily. What are your driving habits. How good are you at keeping the engine at optimum rpm for the speed you are going and several other parameters.
Along with a guaranteed unit you will get all the latest upgrades including the new synchros, a double tailshaft bushing and either electronic or mechanical speedo drive.
Most people will opt for a junkyard unit, bolt it in and then bitch that it is a poor conversion though.

Here is the list of available combinations. Some can be mixed.


http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Bo...T5-ID-Tags.htm

[Bassman/NZ]

Thanks BobC.... that's great.

[AL in NY]

I thought we were talking about the F150 transmission conversion, not the T5. There is only one stock Tremec RTS ratio configuation that will work in the Model A. That's the 27.6% OD transmission. I guess if you want to spend the big bucks, you can have other gear sets made. My pockets aren't that deep, so I'll use the junk yard trans.

[roddyb34]

Originally Posted by PetesPonies

So how about a 3 speed truck trans?? Zillions of them out there. They are very short with a short tailhousing. Anyone used one or heard of it?? Sure no OD, but a nice synchronized trans.

I am doing a 3 speed trans from a mustang etc,into our A with a jeep t150 shifter bolted to the top ,using the AA bellhousing and fabricated pedal mount ,its basicly the same set up as the F150 trans ,i have a steel plate made with the shoulder to mount the uni housing cup, i am yet to do the main shaft spline ,i would be happy with 3 gears with synchros no OD,will still have to shorten the torque tube and driveshaft a bit ,

[Duffy1]

Will a 4 spd out of a V6 1989 ford ranger work .

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Given the right amount of time and money, anything will work. We just try to do things that someone else has done before and done all the engineering. It makes it a lot easier!

[PetesPonies]

I think all manual trans were 5 speeds by '89. Those transmissions have an integral bellhousing. That is not the trans you want.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Jim Parker Toronto

Given the right amount of time and money, anything will work. We just try to do things that someone else has done before and done all the engineering. It makes it a lot easier!

I would have never accomplished this if I had to do the engineering and fab work myself. But now that I have it installed, I couldn't be more pleased with the end result.

[wensum]

Macs Speed shop here in New Zealand makes an alloy bell housing to take the F150 box and this also has the clutch shaft for conventional mounting of the pedals.I believe this is marketed in the States but I'm not sure who by?
Also it should be noted that the spline on the F150 box is shorter than the model A and a special offset clutch plate is require to engage the spline.
I will be running mine with an open prop shaft conversion, but with a hotted up motor and serious driving I believe the diff attenpts to rotate and an arm off the diff is required to counteract this?

[AL in NY]

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Wensum, I believe if you use the Mac's Speed Shop bellhousing, you don't have to shorten the F150 input shaft by 5/8" like you have to with the "AA" bellhousing. And, like you said, there's a pedal shaft on the Mac's unit, but not on the "AA" bellhousing.

[Pete]

I installed one of the popular kits for a customer once and have talked to at least 20 people that have the transmission in discussion and EVERY one of them said after driving it that they were not completely satisfied with the ratios. I noticed quite a few on this thread said the same thing.
I have always wondered, why do something you, in most cases, are not going to be satisfied with.
I bought an A several years ago just to resell and it had one in it. I could not sell it as it was because no one liked the transmission. I had to put a 5 speed in it to sell it.

[CarlG]

The RTS transmission in my PU has the same gears as a stock Model A (gears 1 thru 3) with the added 4th gear 26% OD. I am very satisfied with this arrangement. See Al in NY post #130 above. Anything higher than 26% would be unsatisfactory and for sure you wouldn't like it. Gotta do your homework if you are going to spend that kind of time and money on this.

[partridgekelley]

I have a friend with a 30 fordor , he had a s10 put in it by a guy who butchered his car. Had to put in a open driveshaft and made a mess of that too. The center crossmember was cut so bad it's a weak spot on the car. I had to work for weeks to straighten out what I could. The owner likes the tranny but I think it wrecked the car. I bought a kit to put an 85 f-150 4 speed o/d tranny in my 29 tudor and it's great. I had to notch the center crosmember - but very little. The kit came with shortened driveshaft and radius rods and used an AA bellhousing so no problems with the petals at all. I have driven both cars and like mine much better - it's my baby! His car is heavier and has more selection of gears in the hills. I also have a 28 closed pick-up I put a set of 3;54 gears in the rear and a Mitchell overdrive(with stock trans) DON'T DO
THAT! I have a problem because it's too high geared. Going to have to put the 3:78 gears back in soon. Check it out as much as you can before you spend your $. Good Luck Gary

[Bassman/NZ]

Aint this forum great! In one post it was stated that the F150 ratios are not right, in the next the owner was very happy! Boy, talk about confusion. Seems to me (I'm guessing of course) that a full bodied A is better with the T5, but a lighter car like a fenderless roadster will be OK with the F150. But what do I know? I'm just trying to arm myself with as much info as possible for when I do a swap later in the year.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

I love my 26% F150. While it is the same ratio as the A for 1, 2, and 3, the syncros more than make up for any shortfalls. 4th gear is a dream come true! It's installed in a 30 Fordor, so I guess its one of the heavier cars. I have the 3:54 gears and do not find them a problem. I do have a B engine, so power is not a problem........

[bettlesr]

I drove a friends Sport Coupe in Florida with the 3:1 first gear and a 37% OD. The car had the smaller diameter 16" tires and a hopped up engine. It ran great on the road. I ordered the same ratio trans for my Sport Coupe again with a reworked engine and 16" wheels. Probably put it in when the driving season stops. I got mine from Sheridan transmissions (616-837-6477). It uses the stock bellhousing, and a shortened drive shaft. He cuts the top bolt off of the universal bell and it just clears the cross member. Just shims the brake cross shaft down about 1/4". I will post some pictures when I finally make the switch. Using the 16" tires with a 3.78 rear is almost the same as the stock tires with a 4.11 rear.

[Duffy1]

bettlesr ;

Six montha ago I purchased a late 31 sw ,B touring engine, LFW ,v8 clutch ,f 150 OD and 16 in wheels.Originally I felt like the O D ratio was to ( still trying to find out what it is as there is no tag on the transmission ) high but mine is suppose to be a Gary Benard conversion and as I understand it he only sells low ration ( 26 % ) conversions . Now that I have the engine properly tuned you can run down the hwy at 55mph with AC on ,no sweat , and if you don`t watch it you will be up to 60 mph and not realize it . Great combination .

[chiliman]

what ratios do you guys have? Checking the tag I found out the one in my four door is the 37% I

[chiliman]

I have a nother one that is going in my rodester pickup and it looks like it is the 41% what ring and pinion should I use? what are you guys running thanks

[Duffy1]

I have no tag on my transmission . So I am trying to find out . Based on who supposedly furnished the trans it should be the low ratio but I have no way to verify that.

[miss victoria]

ive done over 140 conversions in 20 + years use the 37 or 26 % o.d. you wont like the 41%.

[bettlesr]

By checking the tag on the one I drove in Florida and on mine and actually counting the ratios with the trans out on mine, they are both the 3.00 1st, 1.77 2nd, 1.00 3rd and .725 4th. this is the 37% trans. With the stock trans and the new engine I can easily start in second or go around corners without shifting. A lot better for the car and more fun to downshift though!

[chiliman]

So has any one run the 41% with a 4-11 rear end? what are the results? thanks

[miss victoria]

your 1st and 2nd gear would be to low 1st would not even be usable.

[Bassman/NZ]

Originally Posted by bettlesr

By checking the tag on the one I drove in Florida and on mine and actually counting the ratios with the trans out on mine, they are both the 3.00 1st, 1.77 2nd, 1.00 3rd and .725 4th. this is the 37% trans. With the stock trans and the new engine I can easily start in second or go around corners without shifting. A lot better for the car and more fun to downshift though!

37% would be .63 4th, or is my math wrong?

[miss victoria]

there are many disscussions on this ,ive done these for over 20 years,and figure .725= 28% o.d. the books call it 37% go figure?

[chiliman]

Thanks for the information will try to swap out the gears called cobra transmission today they are suspoist to get back with me any one have a cluster geer and fourth laying around would be intersted thanks

[miss victoria]

,if you want the .28% you will need an input shaft, overdrive gear and cluster. 22% you will need an overdrive gear and cluster. (both not easy to find) i have a complete 22% o.d. kit for sale,$2975.00+ shipping, (paypal only)

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Originally Posted by miss victoria

,if you want the .28% you will need an input shaft, overdrive gear and cluster. 22% you will need an overdrive gear and cluster. (both not easy to find) i have a complete 22% o.d. kit for sale,$2975.00+ shipping, (paypal only)

Just curious, Miss Victoria, where are you located?

[miss victoria]

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calif

[AL in NY]

miss victoria, I think the way you're calculating the OD percentage is totally wrong. A transmission with a .7246 OD ratio means the engine turns .7246 revolutions and the drive shaft turns 1 revolution. So, when the engine has turned 1 full revolution, the drive shaft has turned 1.38007 revolutions. It is overdriven by 38%. So, a final OD ratio of .7837 = 27.6% and .7087 = 41.1%. There isn't a 22% OD transmission for that F150 tremec transmission. Please see my chart (post #8) earlier in this thread .

[AL in NY]

chiliman, you may want to look into the 41.1% transmission further. The gear ratios in that transmission are; 1st = 3.006, 2nd =1.776, 3rd = 1.00 and fourth is .7087. Now if you do the math, with a 4.11 rear end ratio, the final drive ratios are 1st =12.35, 2nd =7.29, 3rd = 4.11 and fourth is 2.91. Compare this to a 3.78 rear and the 27.6% OD transmission and you get 1st = 12.28, 2nd = 7.25, 3rd = 3.78 and fourth is 2.96. Looks like the only big difference is 3rd gear, 4.11 verses 3.78. Using the 41.1% transmission is going to be way cheaper than buying all the guts you'll need to change it to a 27.6% OD transmission.

[miss victoria]

Sorry al i dont agree with you ,no one i know that used that o.d. Raito liked it. I throw those gear sets away.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Pete

... have talked to at least 20 people that have the transmission in discussion and EVERY one of them said after driving it that they were not completely satisfied with the ratios. I noticed quite a few on this thread said the same thing...

Talk to me, then that will ruin your 100% record!

[chiliman]

Al in NY thanks for the in formation sounds like 41% with 411 rear end may be the way to go I have one of them scoped out for 200 dollars pulled the top off today at the reabilders gears all look good he is gona be ording the rebuild kit bearings scrnozer and shaft I may try it with the 378 rear first but Im thinking it wont have much power will keep you informed thanks agin

[AL in NY]

miss victoria, I wasn't recommending the 41.1% OD transmission, just trying to show you the correct way to calculate OD percentage.

[Bassman/NZ]

Originally Posted by fordgarage

The new aluminum F150 Model A clutch housing (Mac's?) I recently saw in Wisconsin did not impress me much. Great idea, but poorly executed.

They did not bother to index their new housing design to the Model A flywheel housing to insure or control the centerline alignment of the transmission to the flywheel.

All you guys that agonize over 'dialing in' the flywheel housing to the block can throw away all your fancy measuring tools and replace them with a Stanley tape measure when using the new F150 Model A bell housing I saw.

Did the housing you saw have Macspeed embossed on it, because the Macspeed units here in New Zealand are superb quality, and there are a great number of them in use. I'm picking the one you saw was either some off brand or if it was a Macspeed it would have to be a rogue unit that slipped through. I have no affiliation with Macspeed, but Graeme MacNeill has a fantastic reputation for top quality work here in kiwiland.

[kenparker]

I have been building thes F150 transmiissions for Model A Fords since 1998. I know these gear sets too. Al has the information right on the way to figure the OD %. Subtracting the .70 or .72 or .78 from 100 does not give a true OD %. Subrtacting onlly gives one a numerical figure not a %.

BTW I do not recommend the 41% for the Model A. The 37% only in very special conditions. I drive a 31 Model A coupe with the 27% and a 31 S/W Fordor with a 27% as well as a speedster with the same tranny. I love the combo in all three cars.

[CarlG]

The $500 price tag is probably why using the AA bell housing and fabricating a pedal mount is why the guys making the kits do it that way.

[chiliman]

CarlG What % transmission you running and with what rear end? thanks

[CarlG]

4th gear (Overdrive) is .78 which is either 22% or 27% depending on whose math method you use. The rear end ratio is stock Model A, which I believe is 3.78

From my experience, which is only about 1,500 miles, this combination is very acceptable, runs well under 2,000 rpm at 55mph.

[chiliman]

thanks for the information

[Bassman/NZ]

Next question.... the adaptor plate to mount the torque tube to the trans... is this available, or does it need to be custom made? Also the u-joint... what is used here?
Thanks,
Marty.

[1931 flamingo]

There are kits avail from diff venues for this conversion, either 3 spd or 5 spd. Some require frame mods, some open drive, some closed drive. There's an ad for the conv in every hemmings mag, also ck on the HAMB.
Paul in CT

[miss victoria]

I can sell you a complete kit $2995.00 or machine all your parts inc rear adptor $1200.00. (pay pal only)

[chiliman]

miss victoria my set up is with a open drive shaft and I gess you know I have the 41% dont look as if the 26 % geer sets are easy to find new or used It is going in a rodester pickup gess I will give it a try and see if it will have enough power what are your findings with 41%? Will probly begetting one of your mastercylinder battery boxs later this year just starting to put together thanks for your input

[miss victoria]

you will like the full sycromesh,1st to 3rd will be fine, o.d on flat ground ok. the pick up is light so the more hp the better.

[chiliman]

thanks for information have the 37% in myfourdoor works great can't wait to get the pickup going

[chiliman]

Miss VICTORIA Do you sell your master cylinder battery box set up without the master cylinder would cut down on shiping weight may go with a power bosster one if so how much and shiping to kansas city thanks

[Jim, Nashville]

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I have a T170 that I want to use but the overdrive is 41%. I have been trying to find a 26% cluster gear and overdrive gear for some time now with no success. Do any of you know where I might find these parts?

[miss victoria]

can sell you one without a master cly, i pay $55.00 for one. , need a zip code for shipping cost, but figure around $35.00 thanks

[miss victoria]

those gear sets are no longer made,i have them but need them for my kits,if i come across an extra set will let you know.

[AL in NY]

For RTS parts try:

www.drivetrain.com .........or www.standardtransmission.com

[Jack 34pu]

I was at a car show this past weekend in Altoona. I met two fellows that had early 50's pu's side by side - both flatheads. One had the mid 80's 3sd w/OD and the other had the T-5 5sp. Both agreed that the 5 sp was a better choice because of the gearing. 1st a little low but nice between 2, 3 & 4 on the T-5. They said the 3sp OD had a wide gap between 2nd & 3rd. These were multiple owners and drivers. One fellow had the pu w/3sp OD and a 53 Ford with the T-5. Again he said he like the T-5 better. They also recommended the Cornhuskers kit w/hyd slave cyl. I'm always trying to learn from those who have already gone thru the process. What do you think?

[AL in NY]

IMO, the 5 spd is a harder install. The RTS 3 spd w/OD has essentially the same gearing as the Model 3 spd in gears 1 thru 3. What you gain is the OD. Also, the RTS install doesn't modify the car as much as the T5.

[chiliman]

Miss Victora my zip is 64068 thanks

[sturgis 39]

I think the Mitchell Over drive will be my choice. Six speeds forward and about the same amount of money.

I thought some people had trouble with Dave. They could not get their stuff and he was in rehab. This could be something else or a different person but I thought it was over drive transmissions.

[miss victoria]

yes i did have problems, over 2 years ago, everyone recieved there transmissions, yes late but they got them, some people just cant let go. if theres dirt to be spread some just have to do it,do your homework before you post negitive against anyone. thank you.

[miss victoria]

Battery box no master cly,(will inc the master cly mount but not welded on so you can place it where you want)$295.00 inc shipping,commit to buy on ebay,will send you an invoice for pay pal. thanks.

[sturgis 39]

Originally Posted by miss victoria

yes i did have problems, over 2 years ago, everyone recieved there transmissions, yes late but they got them, some people just cant let go. if theres dirt to be spread some just have to do it,do your homework before you post negitive against anyone. thank you.

Miss

I was doing my homework. I am glad you are up and running. I just asked a question and now I know. Sorry that I upset you.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by miss victoria

... some people just cant let go...

I just can't let go --- of the transmission I got from Dave. I think it's great, and I love it. The machine work Dave does is top shelf, as is his customer service. Dave doesn't just sell parts, he sells a complete working system, and is there to make sure it works as advertised. I would buy another one from him in a New York Minute, I just don't have another car to put it in right now.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

IMO, the 5 spd is a harder install. The RTS 3 spd w/OD has essentially the same gearing as the Model 3 spd in gears 1 thru 3. What you gain is the OD. Also, the RTS install doesn't modify the car as much as the T5.

Even without the Overdrive, the syncromesh is worth the effort! I just LOVE mine!

[miss victoria]

In my victoria i put a close raito 4 speed gear set insted of an overdrive set.with .354 rear end.

[Kahuna]

In my 32, I put a 4 speed toploader and a Gear Vendors OD. 8 forward speeds

[sturgis 39]

Originally Posted by Kahuna

In my 32, I put a 4 speed toploader and a Gear Vendors OD. 8 forward speeds

Kuhuna

Could you explain and show pictures of a gear vendor overdrive? I have not heard of a gear vendor over drive.

Thanks

[1931 flamingo]

Gear Vendor is the manuf.
Paul in CT

[sturgis 39]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Gear Vendor is the manuf.
Paul in CT

That reply was kind of vague. Is the overdrive a bolt on to the transmission or did they build the whole unit which includes the transmission and overdrive unit. I am still confused.

[Bob C]

They come either way. They have adapters to bolt them to the back of the transmission or
they can be put in the drive line.
Link http://www.gearvendors.com/custom.html

Bob

[sturgis 39]

Originally Posted by Bob C

They come either way. They have adapters to bolt them to the back of the transmission or
they can be put in the drive line.
Link http://www.gearvendors.com/custom.html

Bob

Thanks for the reply. I went to the site and I seem to be having trouble navigating to the right location. I will have to return to the site again.

Thanks

[Kahuna]

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Gear Vendors makes all kinds of stuff. Generally, they make adapters so that an O/D can be added to some or all of the most popular transmissions (Std and automatics). I think they also now do an in-driveshaft O/D for Model A's and early V8 Fords.
Keep in mind that Gear Vendors owns all the stuff that was originally the Laycock-De-Normanville Overdrive (Volvo, Austin Healey, Triumph, etc.).
Jim

[Kahuna]

Here are a few pictures. The transmission is a Jeep Aluminum case, fitted with Ford gears (yes, they fit w/out modification). Then an adapter was made to connect the O/D to it.
The shifter top assy is also Jeep and I used a Marlin model 66 gun barrel to be able to run the wires from the shift ball. The ball is from a Volvo and has the switch in it to trigger a set of relays to engage the O/D

[miss victoria]

very nice looking job!!!

[Kahuna]

Thank You
I've got about 750 miles on the car now. The O/D functions well. I'm running a 4.11 rear axle, and in O/D it equates to a 3.20
Jim

[Crazydaddyo]

Here is the T-5 with a closed drive line in a stock A chassis

[miss victoria]

another nice looking conversion!!

[sturgis 39]

I appreciate the pictures and the information. I am going to have a wait for a while to do something. I kind of like Dave's the best right now.

Thanks Again

[wensum]

Model A adaptors 004.jpg

Model A adaptors 005.jpg

Model A adaptors 006.jpg
The photos show a bell housing adaptor made in New Zealand by Mac's Speed shop and sold in the States. (I don't know who by)
This alloy casting includes the shaft for the clutch forks and pedals left or right hand drive
It is a simple bolt-on job for the F150 gearbox, but because the input shaft spline starts further back than the Model A one, a special offset clutch plate has to be made.
In this installation, there is also a quick change rear end and consequently there is also an open prop shaft

[miss victoria]

That is a nice bellhousing, saw one at a swap meet the vendor had a price tag $395.00 did not notice is there a mount on the bottom for the wishbone?

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Originally Posted by miss victoria

That is a nice bellhousing, saw one at a swap meet the vendor had a price tag $395.00 did not notice is there a mount on the bottom for the wishbone?

Yes.........

[spdway1]

Who is NOW building these transmissions and that are RELIABLE. Dave's Delhume site is down again. I can't get in contact with him.

[a-bone newby]

I have a model a and want to keep it as stock as possible if I want race I would buy a lamborgini I am not trying to be cheeky but why a A if not to put around han have people admire my car stock?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by spdway1

Who is NOW building these transmissions and that are RELIABLE. Dave's Delmue's site is down again. I can't get in contact with him.

I just went to his site and it came right up:
modelaonly.net

Contact info on his website:
Dave Delmue
17649 Peak Ave.
Morgan Hill, CA 95037
408-722-2518
Email: [[email protected]]

[spdway1]

Originally Posted by a-bone newby

I have a model a and want to keep it as stock as possible if I want race I would buy a lamborgini I am not trying to be cheeky but why a A if not to put around han have people admire my car stock?

You can use your Model A to go apple picking and it is your car to do what ever you please. We use ours to race (nostalgia hill climbs and such). It is not a hot rod by any means. Just looking for a transmission that will do the job! Any suggestions?

Second place is the first looser!

[1929]

Originally Posted by spdway1

You can use your Model A to go apple picking and it is your car to do what ever you please. We use ours to race (nostalgia hill climbs and such). It is not a hot rod by any means. Just looking for a transmission that will do the job! Any suggestions?

Second place is the first looser!

You had me laughing spdway, that was good, (go apple picking)

[Synchro909]

I understand you have to cut away part of the cross member to fit one of these transmissions. Here, that puts the car off the road straight away. No cutting of the chassis allowed, FULL STOP!

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I understand you have to cut away part of the cross member to fit one of these transmissions. Here, that puts the car off the road straight away. No cutting of the chassis allowed, FULL STOP!

When I installed my F150 Transmission, there was absolutely no cutting of the cross member or any part of the chassis at all. It was all bolt in. The wooden floorboard had to have the cut out for the shift lever enlarged a tad since the shift lever was about 1.5 inches aft of where the stock model A was. That's all! No metal was cut or drilled.

[MAG]

X2 on CarlG's post,

[JtownJoe]

Hi Ray, what part of Western PA? I'm from Johnstown and I put the 87' F-150 in my 30 Tudor ABOUT 3 years ago & I really like it.

[Ron W]

The ones that cut use the "A" bell-housing. Using the "AA"bell-housing requires NO cutting. I love mine! It only has one shift lever and you can downshift at any speed!!!
Ron W

[Synchro909]

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With no cutting of the chassis, this might be a goer here so long as a bell housing can be found for RHD.

[CarlG]

Someone in Kiwiland makes a bell housing that will work.

[MAG]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

With no cutting of the chassis, this might be a goer here so long as a bell housing can be found for RHD.

The AA Bellhousing has no shaft for the brake and clutch. (It's on the A Bellhousing)
The Brake and Clutch Pedal Shaft must be fabricated when installing the F150 in a Model A.
So, installing in a Right Hand Drive Model A would also require fabricating a Brake and Clutch Pedal Shaft.
The next issue would be reversing the Clutch Release Shaft on the AA Bellhousing to make it operate with the Right Hand Clutch pedal.

I have not done this conversion in a Right Hand Drive car but it appearss to be do-able.??

[harleytoprock]

Post #213 shows a RHD f150.

[updraught]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Someone in Kiwiland makes a bell housing that will work.

http://www.macsspeed.com/index.php/p...h-drive-detail

[Ron W]

If I were down under, I would look for RHD "AA" bell housing. It would be shorter and fit without cutting the cross member. Your other option is to get a Mitchel trans, overdrive or both. Ron W

[updraught]

This is a zipped Word document from Jalopyjournal on how the conversion was done:

Google "F150 4 spd/w OD INSTALLATION IN A MODEL A jalopyjournal"

[spdway1]

So who now DEPENDABLE offers these F150 transmissions ready to go?

[CarlG]

PM sent

[26Tguy]

Hey CarlG... may I have that info also please?

[mrcorvair]

I have read all of the replies here. My senior mind is awash with all the comments.
I want to try to use the appropriate T5 trans. I realize this thread started out as a F150 thread but thru out were comments about using the T5. First let me specify the constraints:
1)No cutting or at the very least very minimum cutting of the center crossmember.
2)Retain use of the original mechanical brakes with right hand Ebrake.
3)No alteration of the brake crossshaft.
4)Simple or no change to brake and clutch pedal.
5)Use of stock flywheel
6)Retention of stock torque tube and rear radius rods. Shortening ok.

Specifically if someone could answer the following questions I would be most grateful.
1)Which T5's have the shifter as far forward as possible? Is the S-10 4wd the only recommended one to use? I've also heard of a narrow pattern Ford with a GM tailshaft housing.
2)Is the AA bellhousing the preferred on or should it be the Macs or Vintage Precision? What are the tradeoffs?
3)How far will the shifter be moved back? What shifter is used?
4)What is required at the back of the transmission to adapt to the torque tube? Does someone make a torque tube adapter?
5)What is required at the front of the transmission i.e. clutch, pressure plate, to bearing, and front transmission snout?
6)What would be the pedal arrangement?
7)Does someone make a kit that addresses all the issues raised here?

I realize I'm asking a lot here but I would think that a lot of people would benefit from a clear and concise path to follow to make this conversion. Thank you for your consideration.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by mrcorvair

I have read all of the replies here. My senior mind is awash with all the comments.
I want to try to use the appropriate T5 trans. I realize this thread started out as a F150 thread but thru out were comments about using the T5. ...

PM sent

[mrcorvair]

The T5 was mentioned in many of the posts so I thought it was appropriate to post it here. I will search for the T5 post as soon as I can. Thank you.

[Ed Saniewski]

Hey Chiliman, I was wondering if you ever put that 4.11 rear in your car with the high % overdrive? A friend of mine got an overdrive for his model A Sport Coupe and I think it came from the same guy that made yours in Mo. We are about to start taking his old trans out, and now would be the time to switch ring and pinion if it will help the performance. Thanks.

[Ron Lachniet]

When they talk about cutting the cross member when you use the model a bell housing it sounds like a big deal. When I put mine in I had to grind an area about 1/4x1/2 in. and it is at the top of the cross member where you would never see it unless you removed the transmission and knew where to look. The F150 transmission makes driving in todays traffic a pleasure.

[Tom Wesenberg]

With more than 56,000 views on this thread alone, and 241 replies, do you think Henry missed the boat on not having an overdrive?

I've always said the three main things lacking on the Model A are a higher compression head, counterweighted crankshaft, and overdrive.
More leg room would be next on the list.

[wensum]

One needs to be aware that there are three overdrive ratios available with the F150 transmission. Unaware of that fact, I discovered too late that I had installed the highest ratio of 42% (I think that 35% is recommended for Model A's)
Fortunately, with an improved motor and lightweight body it pulls this ratio effortlessly up hill and down dale.
I haven't checked what diff ratio I have but presumed it to be standard, but as it was out of a speedway midget it may indeed be lower than normal.
To complicate the issue I have a vintage quick change diff with a slightly higher ratio.
All I know is that at 100kph (62mph) it is pulling 1670 rpm.
The installation uses a MAC's bell housing and requires a Mustang turbo clutch.
Keith

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by forever4

Tom,
What about the real "Number One"?

An electronic generator regulator.

20 years too early for the transistor, but an electro-mechanical regulator would have been just fine.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by wensum

...(I think that 35% is recommended for Model A's)...

Mine is 27% with the standard rear (3.58)

[AL in NY]

Duplication of post #8 which has lost it's photos: To answer your question, the transmission you are looking for is out of an 84-87 Ford F150 2WD pickup with an inline 6 or small V8. It has a floor mounted shifter and the shift knob will have "OD" where the normal "4" would be in a normal "H" pattern 4 speed. Secondly, look at the left side of the transmission case. There should be a casting number "260XXXX". Third, on the right side of the transmission there should be a riveted metal tag with the first three letters "RTS" followed by two letters which will identify the OD ratio. See my chart below of the decoding.

[AL in NY]

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Missed a photo for post #245:

[duke36]

Few other items we found, hopefully covered in prior posts:
Tranny is heavier than stock model A;
Plate can be made to support tranny on cross member with Float a motors;
Some frame spreaders may not clear the F150 tranny when using stock A motor mounts if/when installing engine with tranny already in car;
Brake/clutch shaft may need special bracket to support shaft end and to accommodate stock A pedals;
Speedo may need calibration , etc.

[harleytoprock]

Speedo won't need calibration with the F150 overdrive because the speedometer is driven off the drive shaft. A change in rear end ratio would require a calibration change.

[whitetm]

What machine work did you have to do to make this work for you?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by whitetm

What machine work did you have to do to make this work for you?

No machine required with the kit I purchased. Complete bolt in.

Originally Posted by duke36

Few other items we found, hopefully covered in prior posts:
1) Tranny is heavier than stock model A;
2) Plate can be made to support tranny on cross member with Float a motors;
3) Some frame spreaders may not clear the F150 tranny when using stock A motor mounts if/when installing engine with tranny already in car;
4) Brake/clutch shaft may need special bracket to support shaft end and to accommodate stock A pedals;
5) Speedo may need calibration , etc.

1) True
2) Comes with kit
3) With a little creative ingenuity, works ok
4) Comes with kit
5) Speedometer gear is aft of transmission, will give you the same reading in or out of OD. No need to re-calibrate.

[wensum]

Originally Posted by harleytoprock

Speedo won't need calibration with the F150 overdrive because the speedometer is driven off the drive shaft. A change in rear end ratio would require a calibration change.

It's interesting that because the gearbox has an electronic take-off for the speedo, I was told that an expensive solution was required.
However a Ford Falcon speedo cable fitted perfectly.
Also, with the 42% overdrive the speedo reads 75mph when the car is doing 62mph (100kph in NZ)

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by wensum

It's interesting that because the gearbox has an electronic take-off for the speedo, I was told that an expensive solution was required...

You must have a different transmission than I have (which is a Tremec RTS), mine does not have an electronic take off for the speedometer.

... Also, with the 42% overdrive the speedo reads 75mph when the car is doing 62mph (100kph in NZ)

My transmission is 27% overdrive (4th gear). And since the speedometer take off is the original Model A gear, aft of the transmission, it has no bearing on what gear it is in as to how it reads.

[F1_1950]

I realize this is an ancient thread on the T170FT RTS. No where does anyone talk about shortening the output shaft for the torque tube adapter plate and universal. Are you all buying a kit that has the output shaft splined and cut and then re assembled back into the case? I understand that the torque tube, driveshaft, and radius arms need to be shortened. Any info appreciated on shortening the output shaft or does someone sell an already modified shaft? I have the 27% OD trans. Like to put it in my 30 Tudor.

Thanks, j

[CarlG]

I bought the complete kit with all the machine work already done. All I had to do was just bolt it in.

[jayvee34]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I bought the complete kit with all the machine work already done. All I had to do was just bolt it in.

Did you have to shorten the torque tube and drive shaft?
Rather than have shorten the torque tube and drive shaft, would the open drive shaft kit be an option? Just asking. Speedway motors has them, Part #9191111.
John

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by jayvee34

Did you have to shorten the torque tube and drive shaft?
Rather than have shorten the torque tube and drive shaft, would the open drive shaft kit be an option? Just asking. Speedway motors has them, Part #9191111.
John

Shortened drive shaft, torque tube, & radius rods all came in the kit. Open drive line was never a consideration.

[jayvee34]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Shortened drive shaft, torque tube, & radius rods all came in the kit. Open drive line was never a consideration.

Seeing as how you have had your kit for awhile, what do you think it was cost for the same kit today, and who from?
Thanks,
John

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by jayvee34

Seeing as how you have had your kit for awhile, what do you think it was cost for the same kit today, and who from?
Thanks,
John

Message sent to your eMail

[F1_1950]

I flip flop on doing open drive versus closed drive, Speedway sells rear end adapter for open driveline. Then wouldn't have to do any machining to output shaft but would have to do more mods on radius rods. Prefer to do TT but need more info on modifying the output shaft etc.

[JRN1967]

The length of my OD Transmission with the AA bell housing to the retainer was 18.3125". I figured out how much to shorten the TT by subtracting the shorter original bell and trans combo from the longer OD set up.

[rotorwrench]

To go open drive, it takes more than just modification of the rear axle input. The rear axle will need suspension components to allow it to move but stay in the right place. This generally takes a new set of stronger radius rods to include a strong torque arm or a set of semi-elliptic leaf springs to hold the axle in position. This adds a lot of work to this type of modification. Keeping the old buggy type transverse spring saves a lot of further modification if a person can find the right machine shop, drive shaft shop, or kit fabricator to modify parts to work a torque tube.

[MALAK]

Originally Posted by F1_1950

I realize this is an ancient thread on the T170FT RTS. No where does anyone talk about shortening the output shaft for the torque tube adapter plate and universal. Are you all buying a kit that has the output shaft splined and cut and then re assembled back into the case? I understand that the torque tube, driveshaft, and radius arms need to be shortened. Any info appreciated on shortening the output shaft or does someone sell an already modified shaft? I have the 27% OD trans. Like to put it in my 30 Tudor.

Thanks, j

I am in the process of installing a T170 in one of my A's currently. I'm doing all the machine work/fabrication myself and documenting the process. Also, this trans will have the "Goldilocks" ratio mentioned on the Fordgarage website. This trans will have 3.01 first and 27.0% OD vs 3.25 first and 27.6%OD for the stock RTS trans. I'll probably have an extra output shaft or whole transmission (or 2) for sale, when done but not kits. Currently working on the trans outputshaft/torque tube interface. Once I get my numbers figured out I cut/re-spline the output shaft and while I have the mill set up I'll do at least a second and maybe a third shaft while I'm at it.
I did have a little bit of a setback (literally yesterday). I pulled the torque tube, driveshaft, and pinion, and well, see the pictures. I wasn't expecting to have to rebuild the rear end. It wasn't making any noise so I only expected to have to shorten the driveshaft.
For those wondering it is possible to create the "Goldilocks" ratio (I'll be documenting how) but I think I have the only 2 gearsets, on the planet Earth, to do it. ☺

[rotorwrench]

T-170 RTS hard parts are not easy to come by. Folks generally have to purchase a whole used transmission and hope the parts are still good.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

T-170 RTS hard parts are not easy to come by. Folks generally have to purchase a whole used transmission and hope the parts are still good.

That’s my understanding as well. I have one in my Victoria, and parts (like gears) seem scarce.


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[rotorwrench]

When Tremec in Mexico stopped production, they likely produced replacement parts for FoMoCo as long as is generally planned. Usually around 10-years. That puts the last of the replacement parts production at around 1997 so it's been a while. It's too bad that no gear manufacturers have taken up an aftermarket production. These transmissions are still a decent alternative for all of the old torque tube drive and even some open drive flathead powered Ford vehicles. They put the shift top very near to the stock location even though they are larger than the OEM early Ford transmissions.

[MALAK]

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Originally Posted by rotorwrench

T-170 RTS hard parts are not easy to come by. Folks generally have to purchase a whole used transmission and hope the parts are still good.

This is true but parts are out there.

By total random chance, I got lucky and found a brand new cluster, the one needed to make the Goldilocks ratio, mis-listed on eBay as a Jeep cluster; none of the Jeep versions of this trans had OD. I could tell by the seller's pic and the relative size of the gears on the cluster that it was NOT a Jeep cluster. Had him send me a tooth count and sure enough, it was the 31-34-23-15 Ford OD cluster, and I got it for $90 . I also found a new 22T input shaft on ebay(to mate with the cluster) for a reasonable $119 and a used 19T OD gear from a used transmission parts dealer. I've also made a new 19T OD gear (not for the faint of heart). For reference the elusive 31-34-23-15 cluster on left and the RTS 27.6% cluster on right. They look the same but there is 1 tooth difference in the input shaft position and the OD position. The elusive 19T OD gear on left and the 19T OD gear I made on right.

With this cluster and OD the gear the ratios are:
1st = 3.01
2nd = 1.78
3rd = 1.00
4th = .79 = 27.0%

As far as parts are concerned it seems half the battle is knowing what you're looking for and the other half chance (luck).

Tom

[JRN1967]

Don't forget about the T170's ugly sister SROD she may not be as sexy but she shares a lot of the same internals.

[rotorwrench]

I don't know about "a lot" but is does share some parts. The RTS or TOD has a lot of its own part numbers compared to the other SROD and SMOD. The SMOD is a lot different and has a cast iron case. The SROD has a completely different shifting mechanism and different ratios. I'll have to check the parts book and see how many gears interchange.

[JRN1967]

When I say "a lot" I'm talking gear sets and I converted a 37% to a 26.7% using one T170 and two SRODS. I only know by first hand experience.

[rotorwrench]

Those of us that know the Tremec 3&OD transmissions of the 80s will know what to look for but there isn't a lot of information out there on them for the average person who may want one and start looking in the salvage yards. My warning has to include the two different single rail transmissions that were made for Ford by Tremec Mexico. The truck version is not the same as the car version so my advice is to get as much information about them as you can before purchase even for parts. To find the gear set a person wants requires the correct two digit alpha gear code since there are more than one ratio involved with these units. Some may be more desirable to a potential buyer than others depending on the application.

Some folks in both the model A world and the early Ford V8 world are looking for the turret shift type T170 RTS TOD transmissions and they show up less and less as time goes by. Not so many are looking for the single rail shift types but you still have to know what to look for.

[JRN1967]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Some folks in both the model A world and the early Ford V8 world are looking for the turret shift type T170 RTS TOD transmissions and they show up less and less as time goes by. Not so many are looking for the single rail shift types but you still have to know what to look for.

I see... You were just trying to point out the differences so people wouldn't buy the wrong trans by mistake. While my point was to let people know there's still other options for parts. Understood, we were both trying to help.. Sorry for the confusion.

[fried okra]

So, if you have an A with a 4-speed T170 transmission that was installed some years before you bought the car, there is a tag on the trans that would tell which gear set, etc are expected to be in that transmission?

[shew01]

Originally Posted by fried okra

So, if you have an A with a 4-speed T170 transmission that was installed some years before you bought the car, there is a tag on the trans that would tell which gear set, etc are expected to be in that transmission?

Mine has a stamping, rather than a tag. I don’t know if the stamping can be mapped to the installed gear set or not.


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[JRN1967]

Originally Posted by fried okra

So, if you have an A with a 4-speed T170 transmission that was installed some years before you bought the car, there is a tag on the trans that would tell which gear set, etc are expected to be in that transmission?

Yes. Read Al's post #245 & #246 it shows the tag and the definitions for each ratio.

[shew01]

I was mistaken. My transmission does have a tag. I incorrectly recalled the transmission case being stamped, but the tag is stamped.




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[fried okra]

Thanks Shew and JRN....I am away from the car for another week or so.

Will check and see if the tag is still there.

[Ed Saniewski]

I am trying to remove the tower on my OD trans, and wondered dose the trans need to be in any particular gear to take the tower off? I have it in neutral , but cant get the forks to clear. thanks.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by Ed Saniewski

I am trying to remove the tower on my OD trans, and wondered dose the trans need to be in any particular gear to take the tower off? I have it in neutral , but cant get the forks to clear. thanks.

I remember someone mentioning the trans had to be in reverse? But I could be wrong because I'm not sure. But I do remember it had to be in gear.

[shew01]

Try second gear for tower removal and reassembly. When in second, my T170 tower lifts out to the right.

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[Ed Saniewski]

Thanks, I will give it a try.

[rotorwrench]

Second gear for removal and reinstallation. All of the gear change grooves for each synchronizer and reverse gear have to be properly aligned with the shift forks for an easier stab at reintallation.

[Ed Saniewski]

That worked ,thanks

[rwh]

JRN1967
Any information on the SRODS you need to salvage the parts for the build. Trans codes?

[rwh]

I was going to send a PM, but I didn't have enough posts

Hello,

Thanks for posting the information on the "Goldilocks" combination.
Starting the salvager hunt for the SROD components you have listed.
The question I have is does it matter which RTS I start with? B, C or D ratios?
Sorry if the answer is obvious, but I could see where it made a difference?
Had been follow the RTS for a model for a number of years but until this "Goldilocks" combo was I identified I was heading a different route.
Thanks in advance!!

Richard

[alexiskai]

I think he was getting his info from here:
https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/TremecT170FT.htm

[rotorwrench]

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The SROD is not the same as the TOD used in the F-150s. Some ratios in the T170 RTS TOD were for the 6-cylinder applications with different rear axle gearing. Some were for 4X4 with transfer case applications. The ratio I like was used in the rear wheel drive V8 applications for the most part.

This article has info. https://www.f150hub.com/trans/t170-smod-srod-tod.html

The TOD has a top shift feature the others don't have. The SROD is Side Rail overdrive and the SMOD has three side mounted shift rails and a cast iron case.

[Hipopinto]

Hey all

I know this is a very old post but has anyone ever considered this:

A model a stock 3 speed transmission has the following gear ratios

3.12 1st, 1.85 2nd, 1.0 3rd

An iron cased 3+1 overdrive has the following

3.29 1st, 1.84 2nd, 1.00 3rd, .81 4th,

The gears in 1-3 of both transmissions are very similar

If a shifter can be made to work would this be a good choice?

I only ask because the iron units can be had for less than 400 dollars in most cases and parts are still available

What are your thoughts?

This is just food for thought and making conversation

Thanks in advance
Dave

[MALAK]

Originally Posted by Hipopinto

Hey all

I know this is a very old post but has anyone ever considered this:

A model a stock 3 speed transmission has the following gear ratios

3.12 1st, 1.85 2nd, 1.0 3rd

An iron cased 3+1 overdrive has the following

3.29 1st, 1.84 2nd, 1.00 3rd, .81 4th,

The gears in 1-3 of both transmissions are very similar

If a shifter can be made to work would this be a good choice?

I only ask because the iron units can be had for less than 400 dollars in most cases and parts are still available

What are your thoughts?

This is just food for thought and making conversation

Thanks in advance
Dave

This can be and has been done. The iron case, Ford toploader and toploader imposter (O.D.) are the same class of transmission as the Tremec T170 and Jeep T176, many of the parts are interchangeable between them.

The Jeep T176 top cover & shift forks can be fitted to an iron case O.D. toploader with minimal modification. A notch has to be machined or ground into the gasket surface of the case to allow clearance for installing top cover with shift forks.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ow-to.1139513/

There is more info out there on the web. I found this one with just a quick look.

Tom

[Hipopinto]

Tom

Thank you for the reply!

I need to get inside of a T170 and see “how” they manage to make the shifter work

I know about the T176 and adapting to a traditional Toploader

My only concern was the Overdriven gear being in place of the 3rd gear in a Toploader

If we use a T176 tower it will give us an odd shift pattern

I think the T170 did something different with the shifter as the gear layout is the same

My thoughts are primarily that the gear ratios in that specific transmission is about PERFECT for our cars

Thank you for responding I really appreciate the input

Dave

[MALAK]

Dave,

You are correct about the T170 internals. There is a small toggle lever that pivots in the bulge on the left side of the transmission case. This reverses the operation of the shift fork so that 1:1 (straight through) is 3rd gear and O.D. is 4th gear. Again, you are correct that with a T176 shift tower on an iron case Toploader the shift pattern is goofy but it works.

Tom

[Hipopinto]

Tom

Thanks for the pictures!!

“COULD” the internals from the iron cased trans be made to work in the T-170?

I have a line on. D ratio but that’s the worst one for our combo

Just thinking

Dave

[MALAK]

Dave,

It is possible but not all parts are interchangeable. In fact, I have successfully created a "Goldilocks Ratio" T170 as mentioned here,
https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/TremecT170FT.htm
The parts to do this are very hard to come by. So, it is possible to put iron case gears into the aluminum case T170 but have to be careful of bearing sizes/journal sizes as not all will interchange.
If you are looking to change a D ratio T170 to a B ratio T170 I may have a gearset available. I have 2 T170s and will be changing both to the Goldilocks ratio so I will have B ratio gearsets available. It's been a while since I've looked at them so I'd have to inspect them for condition.

Tom

[Hipopinto]

Tom do you care to share how you did or better yet a parts list?

[rwh]

Hello,
Looking at the Ford Garage page on this topic, I am assume that the "Goldilocks Ratio" parts only come from T170F RUG 3+1 (SMOD) iron case transmission and the 351w trucks? Am I correct?
If so, anyone know the code on those transmissions?
Thanks in advance.
Richard

[rwh]

Following up. Any thoughts on the transmissions to retrieve that Goldilocks parts?

[MALAK]

Originally Posted by Hipopinto

Tom do you care to share how you did or better yet a parts list?

Originally Posted by rwh

Following up. Any thoughts on the transmissions to retrieve that Goldilocks parts?

Richard, Dave,

Here's a list of the parts needed.
Vince (Ford Garage, https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/TremecT170FT.htm) has also done a great job tabulating the parts needed but here's a list, taken from the MG_Trans cataloge.

1. T170-16G / D8UZ7017B, INPUT SHAFT FORD TRUCK 22T - 8-7/8” O.A.
2. T170-11D / D8UZ7B340B, 4TH GEAR (O.D.) FORD TRUCK 19T - 1978-84 IRON CASE
3. E1TZ7061C / T170-2M, MAIN SHAFT - FORD TRUCK 19.34”, 32-37, 31 SPL. 4X4
4. E0TZ7061C / T170-2K, MAIN SHAFT - FORD TRUCK 23-11/32” - 1980-85, 32-37-28 SPL., SPEEDO 1-1/4” BEHIND REAR BRG 2WD
5. T170-8D / D8UZ7113B, CLUSTER GEAR - FORD TRUCK R31-34-23-15 O.D.

You'll notice from the list that the 3 gears needed (input shaft, 4th OD, and Cluster) all have PNs that start with D8UZ. This, Ford PN, breaks down to a 1978 Ford Econoline van. So that's the trans (or parts for) needed to create the Goldilocks ratio.

I listed two output shafts, both are T170 TRUCK shafts. The 4x4 shaft is ideal but the 2WD shaft will work as well. I know for a fact that many of the car output shafts have too small a diameter, behind the rear bearing, to be splined for the Model A u-joint yoke.

This Gentleman, named Merlin, has some of these parts. He's a real nice guy to deal with but he's not cheap. Also, these parts show up on eBay from time to time.https://mmerlinn.com/

How many 1978 Ford Econoline vans were made with a 4-speed O.D.? Probably not many. So this is kind of a rare beast but the parts are out there.

Tom

[rwh]

Thanks much!

[rwh]

Sorry one more question (for now). What is the advantage of the 4WD mainshaft. The base RTS transmission I am working with is a 2WD.

[MALAK]

Originally Posted by rwh

Sorry one more question (for now). What is the advantage of the 4WD mainshaft. The base RTS transmission I am working with is a 2WD.

Richard,

See attached pics. The shaft on the far left (in the group of 4) is an iron case car transmission shaft and the diameter is too small to spline for Model A u-joint. The two middle shafts are 4x4 shafts. Notice the absence of the speedometer gear journal. The shaft on the right is 2WD and has the speedometer gear journal. The small hole in the speedometer journal ends up leaving a small divet in the splines for the u-joint. Also, the diameter of the shaft just beyond the speedometer journal nominal for splining. Since the shafts are case hardened this makes it a little harder to machine in this area. Doable and completely usable but the 4x4 shaft is a little easier.

Tom

[rwh]

MALAK,

Thank you for willingness to share your knowledge that I am sure hook a lot of time and financial investment to develop!

Richard

[rwh]

Thanks again to MALAK!
I think I have everything accept a couple of the difficult parts that MALAK identified.
I still need to give Merlin a call.
In the meantime if anyone has a line on
T170-16G / D8UZ7017B, INPUT SHAFT FORD TRUCK 22T - 8-7/8” O.A.
or
T170-11D / D8UZ7B340B, 4TH GEAR (O.D.) FORD TRUCK 19T - 1978-84 IRON CASE
or alternatives to either one please give a shout.

[Cape Codder]

Hi Carl,
On 7/15/15 you wrote:

Originally Posted by CarlG

When I installed my F150 Transmission, there was absolutely no cutting of the cross member or any part of the chassis at all. It was all bolt in. The wooden floorboard had to have the cut out for the shift lever enlarged a tad since the shift lever was about 1.5 inches aft of where the stock model A was. That's all! No metal was cut or drilled.

If you will I have a few questions. First, did yours come as a kit with everything supplied OR did you buy it piece by piece. As to the drive shaft did that have to be cut and machined? Not knowing any of this installation was a AA Bell Housing used or is all of that included with the F150? Is there anything else that had to be moved or reworked?

Thanks for your time and hope to hear from you!

If you so choose you can send it to me at: [email protected]! My PM's are quite full and don't know how to save what I have which is another issue! HA! HA!

Thanks again,
Joe

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

If you will I have a few questions. First, did yours come as a kit with everything supplied OR did you buy it piece by piece. As to the drive shaft did that have to be cut and machined? Not knowing any of this installation was a AA Bell Housing used or is all of that included with the F150? Is there anything else that had to be moved or reworked?

1) I bought a complete kit. I did have to furnish: Radius rods, Drive Shaft, & Torque tube to the builder. Everything else was furnished.

2) The Radius rods, Drive shaft & Torque tubes that I furnished had to be shortened and machined. They were returned to me complete and ready to install.

3) The kit used an AA Bell Housing, and that was furnished, assembled to the RTS transmission, complete with pedal and e-brake supports.

4) The only thing I had to "rework" was the wood floorboard. The position of the shift lever is moved aft about 2 inches. I also bought a transmission cover plate from Snyders (part # A-35245-X) which also had to be reworked to fit, but even that is not necessary.

[Don S]

Continuing with the installation of the Tremac transmission, I have had mine for several years now, love it , but am concerned that there is no rear tranny support . The original tranny had a rubber mount to the cross frame that gave some support and damping of noises ,and probably took some load off the u joint connection. Have any of the the latest Tremac installs been supported by a mount
fabricated to address the issue ? Any information ,drawings, etc could be very helpful.
Thanks , Don

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Don S

Continuing with the installation of the Tremac transmission, I have had mine for several years now, love it , but am concerned that there is no rear tranny support . The original tranny had a rubber mount to the cross frame that gave some support and damping of noises ,and probably took some load off the u joint connection. Have any of the the latest Tremac installs been supported by a mount
fabricated to address the issue ? Any information ,drawings, etc could be very helpful.
Thanks , Don

The kit I received and installed DOES have a rear transmission support with a rubber insulator to the cross frame.

[Wello]

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Is anyone currently selling a complete kit for this set up?

Thanks, Dan

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Wello

Is anyone currently selling a complete kit for this set up?

Thanks, Dan

Yes

[shew01]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Yes

Carl,

Can you post current contact information? This thread has some age on it. I have a T170 (which I absolutely love) in my car, and I may eventually need some replacement parts.

Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CarlG]

shew01
PM sent

[rwh]

MALAK,

Any information how you "made" the 19t gear?
I think I am close to being down to the OD gear to build the "Goldilocks" ratio transmission to have all the parts.
Thanks again for your help.
RH

[rwh]

Anyone have a source for the service manual referenced in the Ford Garage site on this topic?

[MALAK]

Originally Posted by rwh

MALAK,

Any information how you "made" the 19t gear?
I think I am close to being down to the OD gear to build the "Goldilocks" ratio transmission to have all the parts.
Thanks again for your help.
RH

Well if you must know. It's not for the faint of heart. You'll need:

1. Jeep T177, J8132401 / T170-16S
   INPUT SHAFT JEEP 19T (this will become the new 19T OD gear)
   
2. A commonly available 4th OD gear (any tooth count, to be used as a donor, there are plenty of these on eBay)
3. A lathe with carbide tooling (or a machine shop to do this work)

The Jeep input shaft is bored-out and parted off leaving only the gear and cone clutch/splines.

The donor gear is turned down producing a shouldered sleeve that is pressed into the bored-out Jeep gear.

I could have just made the sleeve but chose to use a gear as a donor because it already has the critical dimensions (length and ID) and metallurgy needed.

Here's a photo album of the process. There's a couple pics that show the bushing with a spacer washer. This was only needed as I miscalculated the depth of the shoulder on the bushing. If I made another one I'd just make the shoulder that much thicker and not need the little washer.

As a bonus, the last 3 pics show the repurposing of what was left of the Jeep input shaft. The bearing and seal areas are perfect for making a tool for driving the Model A rear axle shaft seals.

If you click on the pics to show the pic info, there are descriptions on most of the pics

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HNpewbYbRsrd3Eoe6

[MALAK]

Originally Posted by rwh

Anyone have a source for the service manual referenced in the Ford Garage site on this topic?

I think I found this online and downloaded to my PC at home. Give me a couple days to check. Probably be Thursday since I work from home that day.

Tom

[AL in NY]

I emailed "rwh" and told him I have a pdf file from a Ford repair manual showing all the maintenance steps for repair and disassembling the Tremec RTC aluminum case top loader transmission. If anyone needs this information, just send me your home email address and I'll send it out to you................Didn't hear back from "rwh" so I figured he didn't want me to have his home email address.

[rwh]

Hey AL in NY!
Thanks much for the post! I didn't received an e-mail. My e-mail address is: [email protected]

Thanks again. Still in search of the to input and overdrive gear drive for the "Goldilocks" transmission and hope to need the manual soon.

RH

[rwh]

Hey thanks much. I kind of thought this was your solution and order the parts. This machine work is over my head, but I work with 2 excellent ones! Looks like I will be buying a few lunches.

If I can pull this off it will get me down to the input gear. Oh so close!!!
Thanks again for sharing.

[duke36]

Ditto to post 305. One should check the rubber insulator as it can flatten out . Some may be very thin depending on engine slope, rear frame mounts, etc.

[MALAK]

Originally Posted by rwh

Anyone have a source for the service manual referenced in the Ford Garage site on this topic?

RH,

I found the manual on my work PC but even better I found the website that has the manual for download.

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/tod...smissions.html

To download you'll need to scroll to the bottom of the webpage (not the bottom of the document) and open the dropdown menu, see attached pic.

Tom

[rwh]

Thanks much!

[Cape Codder]

CarlG - Could you send me the contact info for the Ford Transmission conversion. [email protected]

[rwh]

Well folks if you have any leads on the 22t input for the "Goldilocks" transmission please let me know. Think I have everything or a path to everything I need for the build!
22T

D8UZ-7017-B
2603806
T170-16G

8-7/8" long

[Hank1]

I have a truck F150 transmission, drive shaft, tube and radius bars for sell asking
$2100

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Hank1

I have a truck F150 transmission, drive shaft, tube and radius bars for sell asking
$2100

I’m curious. Did you replace that with something better on your car? If so, what did you choose?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[abishek]

Originally Posted by Hank1

I have a truck F150 transmission, drive shaft, tube and radius bars for sell asking
$2100

Interested, if still available. PM me pics and details please!

[rwh]

Originally Posted by rwh

Well folks if you have any leads on the 22t input for the "Goldilocks" transmission please let me know. Think I have everything or a path to everything I need for the build!
22T

D8UZ-7017-B
2603806
T170-16G

8-7/8" long

Just looking for an input shaft. Down to the one part for the project.
Would appreciate any leads or suggestions.

[rwh]

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Thanks to all that have helped. Should have the OD gear from the machine shop this week and have started assembling the "Goldilocks". Sure I will have lots more questions. :-)

[shew01]

Does anyone have a lead on an output shaft for this transmission?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by rwh

Thanks to all that have helped. Should have the OD gear from the machine shop this week and have started assembling the "Goldilocks". Sure I will have lots more questions. :-)

Thanks for the followup. Many times members ask a question and forget to let us know how it worked out. We all learn from these posts.

[Chuck McNelly]

Thanks for asking the question Ray, I have been wondering the same.
Chuck
29pickup

[rwh]

Bare with me folks. Trying to post a photo. Not sure this is going to work???

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GFg4XrqPFLZN66CJ7

If the picture comes through my question is about the reverse rail and what appears to be damage?
I assume that it is due the interlock pin "riding" on the shaft over time. I have disassembled two different shifters and they appear similar. It may have damaged the bore a bit.
Should I just polish the shaft to remove the slight burr I feel? Or do I need to need to do something different?

Thanks in advance for the help.
Richard

[F1_1950]

Originally Posted by shew01

Does anyone have a lead on an output shaft for this transmission?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have an output shaft for the T170 for sale if you are still looking for one, etc.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by F1_1950

I have an output shaft for the T170 for sale if you are still looking for one, etc.

Please PM me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ThosD]

Originally Posted by pick

Also the T5 has too low of a 1st gear and only provides over drive in the high teens vs. the Ford's 23 or 28 percnet.

Since the Mitchel trans and OD unit have lifetime waits, I have been reading old posts regarding other transmission swaps. The comments about the T5 having a too low 1st and a minimal OD ratio makes me wonder about the differential gears. Are these comments based on a 3.78 rear end? Would a 3.54 gear set improve the drivability of a T5?

[Gene F]

Did I miss something in this thread? What about the front wishbone breaking?

Buying all of this in a kit is very appealing to me. Gosh think about it; a Burtz engine, this 5-speed (synchronized), a heavy duty radiator, and cast iron drums, and your A would be almost indistructable. The thing would basically last forever with a little maintenace here-and-there. You could run it on the freeway all day without it chewing itself up.

[Phil Brown]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Did I miss something in this thread? What about the front wishbone breaking?

???? Why would the front wishbone break with the f150 trans change ?

(sorry not rereading 17 pages of posts)

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by ThosD

Since the Mitchel trans and OD unit have lifetime waits, I have been reading old posts regarding other transmission swaps. The comments about the T5 having a too low 1st and a minimal OD ratio makes me wonder about the differential gears. Are these comments based on a 3.78 rear end? Would a 3.54 gear set improve the drivability of a T5?

The T5 transmissions you keep reading about with TOO LOW 1st gears is what happens when folks don't do their homework. Almost everyone HEARS that they need the Chevy S-10 T5 which will place the shifter much further forward than most other T5s. Actually, folks need ONLY the tail housing and short shifter rod from an S-10 pickup which will readily swap (bolt-on) onto something like a V8 Camaro T5 which has the close-ratio gearset. The V8 Camaro gearset has a 2.95 1st gear ... PERFECT! That 1st gear in a complete S-10 T5 is going to be either a 4.03 or a 3.76. Those two S-10 1st gear ratios are good for nothing but pulling stumps and parades!

Coop

.

[Gene F]

It stresses them, and they then to break.

[Phil Brown]

Originally Posted by Gene F

It stresses them, and they then to break.

I think theres some confusion on your part, you might be thinking of the REAR radius rods when using an open driveline. Forcing some to self-engineer ways to locate the rear axle with the now missing torque tube
The front wishbone on my 31 CCPU mounts to the bottom of the AA bellhousing just like it did when Ford made it only with the A housing.
Where is this mysterious stress coming from ?

[ThosD]

V8COOPMAN, thank you for your reply. Your link to the T5 conversion with torque tube is quite helpful.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by Phil Brown

I think theres some confusion on your part, you might be thinking of the REAR radius rods when using an open driveline. Forcing some to self-engineer ways to locate the rear axle with the now missing torque tube
The front wishbone on my 31 CCPU mounts to the bottom of the AA bellhousing just like it did when Ford made it only with the A housing.
Where is this mysterious stress coming from ?

No. One of the guys in our club put in the open driveshaft conversion, and he skipped the front wishbone. Once on a tour, he get agressive with the throttle, and he ended up on a tow truck. Some of the companies sell a beefed-up unit.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Buying all of this in a kit is very appealing to me. Gosh think about it; a Burtz engine, this 5-speed (synchronized), a heavy duty radiator, and cast iron drums, and your A would be almost indistructable. The thing would basically last forever with a little maintenace here-and-there. You could run it on the freeway all day without it chewing itself up.

Maybe you should buy a Shay?? https://www.ebay.com/itm/14509637477...Bk9SR7axzL2OYg

[Phil Brown]

Sorry, I just don't see how the f-150 trans could cause any problems with the front wishbone. Never even heard of any problems before your mentioning it.
Close to 15K miles on mine, less on my Dad's but enough that if there were problems they would have shown up by now. ( motors are not stock and NOT driven like a stocker)
Would love to see more on your club member's failure and this so-called "beefed-up" unit, whatever that may be ?
Sounds more like a Mitchel O/D lover trying to spread bad rumors

[Phil Brown]

Just so everyone can see how things get mounted in Dave Delume's kit

[rwh]

[rwh]

Well folks I am on the struggle bus trying to post photos, but I finally completed assembly of the "Goldilocks" transmission today. It wasn't easy, but there is no way I could have done it without the help of a bunch of folks on the forum.
Special call out to Vince and Malak. Vince manages a great website and has always been polite answering my really dumb question. Malak for engineering a solution of the OD gear. Off modifying the driveshaft and arms. Sure I will have more silly questions.

[AL in NY]

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I think GeneF has NO idea what he's talking about. I have NEVER heard of any problems with the front wishbone or the rear radius rods when using the AA bellhousing and torque tube drive shaft. I put the F150 Tremec RTS in my CCPU in 2009 and have 28,000 miles on it with a highly modified Model A engine. I haven't had any FRONT wishbone problems or rear radius rod problems. I did all the machining and installation myself and I have just completed installing the "Goldilocks" gear set. It took me 2 years to find the gears, but I'm really glad I made the change.

[petew]

Originally Posted by ThosD

Since the Mitchel trans and OD unit have lifetime waits, I have been reading old posts regarding other transmission swaps. The comments about the T5 having a too low 1st and a minimal OD ratio makes me wonder about the differential gears. Are these comments based on a 3.78 rear end? Would a 3.54 gear set improve the drivability of a T5?

My T5 swap uses a mid 1980's T5 transmission out of an S10.
1st gear is 3.78 , 2nd 2.18, 3rd 1.42 4th 1.00 and 5th is .072 . As far as I'm concerned the ratios work very well with the 3.78 rear ratio and 40 horsepower.
1st gear is a little short but very usable and 5th will give you 60 mph at right around 2000 rpm.

BritishV8.org has a complete list of T5 transmissions by tag number and application in their articles section with gear ratios for each.

[lyleknievel]

Lots of good info here. I am not yet at the point of thinking too much about this -- I am still working to get my car on the road...but once I do, I will probably come back to this thread and consider the options given...