Rotors

[flathead48]

I have purchased about 1/2 dozen rotors for crab distributors from 3 different suppliers in the past 3 weeks. They all are loose on the shafts, I have tried them on 5 different distributors and same results. I installed one and when I went to start the engine the rotor slipped off enough to hit the inside of the cap and broke in half. Since the rotor and shaft turn as one I don’t see how the shaft can wear. A older rotor about 15 years or so old has to be practically preyed off. In my limited knowledge I am guessing these rotors are made with mounting hole to large. Has anyone else had a problem ? Is there a remedy?
Thanks, Rick

[corvette8n]

Rick: I’ll be watching for an answer as I have a crab distributor I may put on my ‘41

Try barnfind he may have an nos one.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/priva...=newpm&u=11230

[Veeder]

Roick
Can you post one pic?
Bob

[deuce_roadster]

I would think if you pushed a thin piece of paper down over the shaft wth the rotor it could take up the slack. I think I have seen a thin spring metal piece on the end of a distributor shaft too.

[barnfind08]

I have nos ones

[tubman]

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Originally Posted by barnfind08

I have nos ones

Fred to the rescue!

[rotorwrench]

The early and late 8BA family of engiones as well as the later ford tractors used a flat spring or a clip to fit the rotor tightly to the shaft. These were either the 7RA-12213-B or the 8BA-12213 respectively. I wonder if the correct rotors are being sold for the older crab or rabbit ear type distributors. The 7RA-12200 and the 59A-12200 rotors do look a lot alike.

The true crab rotor of 1942 was the 21A-12200 is a bit different.

[drolston]

I shimmed with a piece of paper for a snug fit of the rotor on the shaft. Be sure to spin the rotor with the cap on before you install the distributor, to be sure the rotor does not contact the spark plug wire connectors inside the cap. if you get any contact, it is probably because the cap is not on perfectly straight or completely seated.
In most cases you have to install the distributor and then the cap. Once you get the cap on and snapped, tap it down firmly with a leather or plastic mallet, or a hammer with a piece of wood as a cushion.
Here is what happens if the cap is not seated perfectly straight. The car might start and run but very badly. This was part of my winter of ignition discontent.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

By the way guys i have a bag of new old stock retaining clips ...let me know if ya need one ......
Other wise use a cent punch to peen the rotor shaft then install the rotor ......???????????:d

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Clip pic

[V8COOPMAN]

.

Wonder JUST HOW MUCH the Ford house would charge ya for ONE of these clips.....IF they even have a box of 'em on the shelf now-a-days? DD

[Rudolph]

I got a bob drake rotor that needed a lot of shortening to fit, put a NOS rotor with a bob drake cap and it collided and bent the brass bit of the end

[Rudolph]

Originally Posted by drolston

I shimmed with a piece of paper for a snug fit of the rotor on the shaft. Be sure to spin the rotor with the cap on before you install the distributor, to be sure the rotor does not contact the spark plug wire connectors inside the cap. if you get any contact, it is probably because the cap is not on perfectly straight or completely seated.
In most cases you have to install the distributor and then the cap. Once you get the cap on and snapped, tap it down firmly with a leather or plastic mallet, or a hammer with a piece of wood as a cushion.
Here is what happens if the cap is not seated perfectly straight. The car might start and run but very badly. This was part of my winter of ignition discontent.

I drove 120 miles with a twisted rotor like this, it burnt holes in the cap but seemed to run ok