Turn signals/brake lights

[msbrown6]

In an attempt to increase safety without sacrificing too much on original looks, I'd like to add turn signals and brake lights - hopefully LED - to my 1929 Model A Phaeton - 6V positive ground. I have found lots of individual parts through Snyders/Macs - but am really looking for a kit with detailed wiring instructions for someone that doesn't have extensive knowledge/skills with electrical systems. I would like to use the original tail light look - I'm not thrilled with the look of LogoLights. I also don't have cowl lights - so I'm looking for a front amber flasher solution too for the turn signals.

I found this LED tail light at Snyders - and hope to use the red for brakes, amber for flashers/turn signals: https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/s...red-amber-lens

I've searched the forums for the past hour and a half - without much success. I'm new here - and fairly new to Model A's - so be kind! Thanks fellas!

[old31]

I recently installed turn signals after a lot of research. I used Ticken Through Time because I did not want anyone to know I have installed directionals with LED's. They work great.

They supply a little switch that is mounted on the gearshift. I installed it under the dash so it could not be seen.

The manufacturer and Snyders will help with questions.

Attached is my order for parts, you might not need all of the same.

I cant tell you how much better it is to drive with directionals, especially at night.

[Charlie Stephens]

I intend to use era correct driving lights in the front for turn signals. In the rear I am going to use the original lights but I am going to use all red lenses. The last thing I want is someone wondering what the amber light is for as they run into the back of my vehicle.

Charlie Stephens

[denniskliesen]

When I changed my harness, the old one was shot, I bought a harness wired for turn signals. I bought mine from either Snyder's or Bratton's, don't remember which and you will want to decide if you want the harness for with cowl lights or without cowl lights. They also have a choice of the Signal-Stat switch or another type that is concealed under the dash. They have a set of instructions posted online for where your wires connect for each variation that you can download and or print out to study while you decide which way you want to go if you decide to change the harness. It simplified matters for me and was cheaper in the long run than if I had bought the wire and connectors to do the job. I've done a complete rewire job on a vintage vehicle and would not have done it if there had been a harness available. What you need to know is how many wires go to each headlight, and do you plan on putting cowl lights on in the future. Think about your options and decide if you want to save time and headache. For the taillights, you already have clearance and brake light going to the left rear. If you buy a harness with turn signals, both sides will be there ready to connect. For a sedan you might need to purchase the extra jumper to reach the taillights The brake light and turn signal wire are one in the same. For the passenger side rear they make a taillight bracket, just order a taillight and note they have them with a license light or without a license light. You said your car is a 29, is the taillight a tea cup or the drum style? Early 29 had drum taillights like the 28. If in doubt you can always call Snyder's and ask for technical help regarding electrical. Check out your headlight wiring, 2 or 3 wires to the headlight. Measure the size of your socket at your headlight if you keep the original socket wiring. Some people wire straight through to eliminate the problem with that connection point.

[Big hammer]

Wecome to the Barn :-) I would stay with Synders, Brattons, Berts ( steve from Bert's post's here from time to time). Give the suppliers a call and ask questions, they are all helpful ! Most will send wiring diagrams, if they didn't they would get the parts back.

[Barber31]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Welcome. I just added turn signals and 3rd brake light to my Tudor a few weeks ago. I started with a new wiring harness setup for non cowl signals. I used Amber fog lamps mounted to the bumper brackets up front and added the second tail lamp on the passenger rear fender. My tail lamps are also all red LED's. The 3rd brake lamp is mounted on my rear glass and functions as brake & turn signals in conjunction with rear tail lights.

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by Barber31

Welcome. I just added turn signals and 3rd brake light to my Tudor a few weeks ago. I started with a new wiring harness setup for non cowl signals. I used Amber fog lamps mounted to the bumper brackets up front and added the second tail lamp on the passenger rear fender. My tail lamps are also all red LED's. The 3rd brake lamp is mounted on my rear glass and functions as brake & turn signals in conjunction with rear tail lights.

I too use amber fog lamps up front for signal lights. Where did you get your 3rd brake light?

[CarlG]

I bought the Signal Stat 900 kit from Sacramento Vintage. It came with a "modified for Model A" switch and wiring and instructions that made installation a snap. At the same time I installed cowl lights (with the turn signals in them), RH tail light, and LED tail lights. Couldn't ask for a better set-up than that. Has worked great for the last 7 years.

I have since added an LED 3rd brake light just below the rear window of the cab.

[updraught]

From what I can figure with 6 volts you are fairly limited with the range of LED tail lights available. With 12 volts the amber at the bottom and red stop/tail in the top are available on ebay. Also, the self cancelling indicator unit can be had in 12 volts from Speedway Motors.
Snyders seems to have the indicator wiring built into the loom, whereas Bratton's don't.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by updraught

From what I can figure with 6 volts you are fairly limited with the range of LED tail lights available. With 12 volts the amber at the bottom and red stop/tail in the top are available on ebay. Also, the self cancelling indicator unit can be had in 12 volts from Speedway Motors.
Snyders seems to have the indicator wiring built into the loom, whereas Bratton's don't.

Are those looms where the indicators are inbuilt setup for the American style indicators where the brake light flashes? If so, it is worth noting that is illegal at least here in Vic. and has been since the 1950s.

[denniskliesen]

When your left turn is flashing, right brake is on constant. Vice versa for right turn. So yes, I assume you need an extra light for brake only on the same side light is flashing?

[updraught]

Good point. Don't know. Haven't bought one of the Snyders ones.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by denniskliesen

When your left turn is flashing, right brake is on constant. Vice versa for right turn. So yes, I assume you need an extra light for brake only on the same side light is flashing?

Turn signals here must be amber. That eliminates confusion between stop and indicator lights but I think it all boils down to what you are used to seeing. When I was driving in the US a couple of years ago, I found this very troublesome for a while but like driving on the wrong side of the road, I got used to it - eventually. (Almost)

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Are those looms where the indicators are inbuilt setup for the American style indicators where the brake light flashes? If so, it is worth noting that is illegal at least here in Vic. and has been since the 1950s.

Another good reason to buy the stand alone turn signal system. I've always preferred separate bulbs and wires for the turn signals. In case of trouble, it makes trouble shooting easier also.

[Patrick L.]

This has been discussed here many times over the years.

I like LEDs on the rear and use incandescent on the front. And I use the lights Ford provides.
I made a bracket to mount a regular tail light as a third brake light to the spare tire. The front turns are the park lights in the headlight assy and the cowls.

Higher wattage/CP lights in the fronts will allow a thermal flasher [535] to work properly.

Signal-stat has been around for decades and they make a good switch that can be purchased just about anywhere. I didn't like the looks of that switch mounted to the steering column at first but quickly got used to it and now don't even notice it. I replaced the plastic wire loom with a more time period correct loom. Don't rely on the steering column for the ground, run a separate ground wire from the signal-stat.

[katy]

I found this LED tail light at Snyders - and hope to use the red for brakes, amber for flashers/turn signals: https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/s...red-amber-lens

What do you propose to use for tail lights?

[Barber31]

Dennisk- I purchased my 3rd brake light from one of the vendors. I usually use Mikes, Berts or snyders. The brand was Brake Lighter I believe.

[Bruce Adams]

May I suggest you go ALL RED as its a bit difficult to advise the world of the amber brake light and the rest of the world is attuned to bright red and less bright red. Those LED packs are TREMENDOUS. As Bright as my new Mustang's taillites. Following is a left turn with LED's and a Third BrakeLight on my rack.

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by Barber31

Dennisk- I purchased my 3rd brake light from one of the vendors. I usually use Mikes, Berts or snyders. The brand was Brake Lighter I believe.

Thank you Barber 31. I looked at Snyder's, they have it listed as 3rd brake light.

[BillLee/Chandler, TX]

Here's a document for my Tudor that might be helpful.

http://cedarcreekas.org/TechTopics/1...rn_Signals.pdf