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Old 06-08-2015, 01:10 AM   #1
SAJ
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Default Cracked babbitt

I Pulled apart my Touring engine, bought from Snyders 17000 miles ago. The engine is babbitted and was built by Schwalms 5 years ago. I thought it was developing piston slap and suspected no 3 piston, which nipped up without damage at 4000 miles. But No 3 will take a 0.002 inch feeler up the skirt but not a .004. So probably .003 to .0035 clearance and OK.
Rods all plastigauge at .0015 inch and mains the same. But on removing the rods the Babbitt in the rod tops is badly cracked in two and has minor cracks in the other 2. See photos attached. Rod caps look OK to me, and mains have unusual marks but seem OK. The photo plays tricks with the light, and the centre main has dull and shiny patches but is not flaking as it appears in the pic.
Car has a 26% Mitchell O/D and I am paranoid about not lugging it or over advancing it on long steep hills. I change down at 35 mph into 2nd overdrive and max advance is fixed (by a stop on the quadrant) at 29 engine degrees. It never detonates or pings and I retard a notch or two on hard pulls.
So I am very surprised to see the babbitt fatigued and cracked as it is.
Ora Landis advised to retard the timing a bit more but made no other comment via Tom Jordan at Snyders.
I am going to fit Snyders new rods with .020 shells-the type with side thrusts built in.
The shaft is 1.4774, .001 under the 20 thou regrind and using Snyders figures I should get .0025 clearance, but in a trial fit with another club member’s new rods from Snyders I got .0015 with plastigauge. When mine arrive I may have to do a little hand fitting to lose that extra “thou” I guess.
Purpose of this post is to ask opinions on what happened, since I use the car to its max potential but keep revs below 2500 (low gears on hills) and run at 55 mph, with an occasional max of 60.
I have rev counter, temp gauge, thermostat, oil pressure gauge, exhaust gas temp gauge and keep an eye on it all. Engine runs at 140 Deg max despite the 160 deg thermostat. I don’t know why, since the stat tests out at 160 deg on the bench, but my wife’s Tudor with a similar engine that I built up myself runs the same – just below the green on her gauge
I follow other members up hills where they stay in top to 25 mph, where I have changed down and am running light way before them.
My car is 120 thou over bore, Stipe 330 cam, Model B carb, 95 psi Compressions and 10% leakdowns. No sounds or signs of detonation on plugs etc, and just a “slapping” noise on light running on a cold engine, which goes away as it warms. Oil is Mobil 10W-50 V-Twin (higher ZDDP etc) and I did run Mobil1 4t 10W 40 for a short while. Filter is Z9 full-flow.
I hope the thin-wall shells are tougher in the babbitt film than the cast bearings!
This is the same engine whereI posted about a cam train knock. I see nothing wrong here but will replace both timing gears whilst down

Thanks for any advice and hopefully some encouragement for the next 20000 miles.
SAJ in NZ
Attached Images
File Type: jpg no 1 rod (Custom).jpg (34.4 KB, 261 views)
File Type: jpg no 2 rod (Custom).jpg (40.7 KB, 273 views)
File Type: jpg no 3 rod (Custom).jpg (41.4 KB, 253 views)
File Type: jpg no 4 rod (Custom).jpg (34.4 KB, 218 views)
File Type: jpg middle main cap and journal (Custom).jpg (50.5 KB, 235 views)
File Type: jpg rear main cap (Custom).jpg (48.1 KB, 239 views)
File Type: jpg front main cap and block (Custom).jpg (45.8 KB, 233 views)
File Type: jpg inside block (Custom).jpg (63.8 KB, 246 views)

Last edited by SAJ; 06-09-2015 at 08:55 PM. Reason: wrong bore size
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Old 06-08-2015, 02:00 AM   #2
H. L. Chauvin
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

Always difficult to recognize a problem from far away and furthermore, these comments may not be the cause of your particular problem; however, FWIW:

A few years back Mr. Ron Kelley was telling me he has noticed that a lot of the cracked connecting rod "top-half" Babbitt problems that he saw brought into his shop was caused by Model A Owners beating up their "top" connecting rod Babbitt on their crankshaft journals because their Model A distributor manual timing stayed too far advanced for different engine's RPM's.

He described it to hitting the top of the piston with a big maul while holding the crank arm fixed at 90 degrees to the horizontal, where the crank cannot move and cannot rotate; hence, the "top" Babbitt in the connecting rod takes this forceful beating, but, the bottom half remains unharmed.

You will get other comments & opinions that may or may not help to resolve this problem ..... if more details are given, more comments will follow.
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Old 06-08-2015, 03:26 AM   #3
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

Thanks H.L. I guess my question is how do you know how much is too much ignition advance?. I have always followed the method that max. achievable timing is set to just before detonation or pinging occurs and this has worked in many tuned engines I have worked with. My car cannot go beyond 29 deg BTDC and will not ping at this setting. I back it off from here for big hills. In contrast I see many club members who proclaim "I just pull the lever right down and leave it there". Allowing for slop and friction, they are still probably up above 30 or 32 deg, though on lower compression engines (the "full slot" is 40 deg but most A's I work on cannot achieve "full slot")
So, given my engine never detonated, how much is enough advance, bearing in mind that my lever is calibrated against a timing scale on the front and I set it up with a timing light, so I know roughly how many degrees I am running at any time. Should I limit it to 28 deg max, 26 deg or what?
I would like to know so I don't wreck the rod bearings again. It does seem thick babbitt is more prone to stress cracking than thin shell babbitt, from what I was taught and now experience.
But do Bonneville racers like Jim Brierly, and circuit racers have to stay back from max power to watch their babbitt in Model A engines? If so I was not aware of it.
I have to assume here that the bearing job was good and the alloy used a good non lead one - the assembler has a great reputation.
So I guess I killed it myself!
SAJ in NZ
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Old 06-08-2015, 04:08 AM   #4
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

I'm no engine expert, but I read a lot, and try to learn...I remember Smokey Yunick describing detonation and the damage it causes. I cant quote it exactly, but it something along the lines of, " By the time you hear it, the damage is done"...So I dont really think you can say your engine never detonated.
I'm pretty sure the experts are going to want to see pics of the tops of the pistons and the head, so they can look at the flame travel.
Smokey also talked about going to Indianapolis, and it being a once-a-year event, and on race day he taped over the gauges and said " Run her til she pukes". I imagine the same mentality prevails at Bonneville on a record attempt....I dont believe they back off for anything.
Hopefully this drivel will at least get you a bump to the top and James or Herm will give you a good answer.
Good Luck!
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Old 06-08-2015, 05:51 AM   #5
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

Vince,
I have a Snyder 5.5 to 1 head. The overbore gives it about 6:1, I think from memory. I mistakenly said I have +0.100 bores. It is actually 4 inch and 0.125 inch overbore. A bit more than 3.5 litre or plus 6.6% upping the compression pressures.
What is a reasonable max advance? I have read several others use 28 deg.
I am running 28 deg on my wife's Tudor too with a similar engine I built, using babbitt.
I don't want to wreck this one too.
SAJ in NZ
I appreciate your advice
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Old 06-08-2015, 10:20 AM   #6
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

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The cracks in the rod bearings appear to be from fatigue. For fatigue to occur, there must be an alternating tension field in the bearing. Causes for the tension field may be:
> Failure of the Babbitt to adhere to the rod allowing its movement under load;
> Understrength Babbitt material allowing it to repeatedly yield;
> Pocket within the Babbitt;
> Excessively high pressure loading in the cylinder (power stroke), but this is not likely as not all of the rods have cracked bearings;
> Rod bearing not normal to the wrist pin perhaps due to a bent rod or out of alignment boring of the rod bearing.

It is wise to replace the rods with cracked bearings.
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Old 06-08-2015, 12:12 PM   #7
H. L. Chauvin
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

Hi SAJ,

In trying to get this over with, with heartfelt compassion, here is what I would try to do:

1. Something tells me that there are gentlemen on this Forum who trust the expert opinions of those few today who pour Babbitt often who could perform a "hands-on" inspection for the possible "root(s)" of this particular problem.

2. Rather than waste valuable time guessing, I would try to ship the connection rods to this Babbitt expert for peace of mind and be done.

3. In my humble opinion, from thousands of miles away, not being able to "see", "hear" and "touch" this sort of problem, not being able to quickly communicate by phone, most vehicle Forums opinions are just mere guesses for unresolved problems almost like playing BINGO ...... nobody knows whose response will win.

4. It is almost like writing a letter to a Doctor in Iceland thousands of miles away trying to ask what kind of surgery one needs for his back pain.

5. Show me a perfectionist laying bricks and after laying bricks for a week, 1 or 2 will be a little out of level ..... Babbitt is not much different ..... professional liability insurance companies are fully aware of this human event and their policies get exercised often today.

6. An individual's peace of mind to an unknown cause is a great thing that no money can buy.

Just sincerely hopes this helps.
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Old 06-08-2015, 12:13 PM   #8
Kohnke Rebabbitting
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

Mr. SAJ, Take a knife and take out the fractured pieces in the tops of the rods, and take pictures of the rod, and the back of the babbitt pieces.

Use your flash if you can.

You have Aluminum impregnated in your main babbitt.

The mains may, or may not be tin base, but the rods look like lead babbitt?

Your, .001-50 clearance is where you want to be on the rods.

Are these rods the ones that came with your rebuild?

Herm.

Last edited by Kohnke Rebabbitting; 06-08-2015 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 06-08-2015, 12:24 PM   #9
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

Lead babbitt scraps much different then the harder tin babbitt.

Try some light scraping on the rod and the mains in an out of the way place.

Also try pressing the edges of the mains in the block. If any oil is squeezing out then the babbitt was not peened right. Hard to be sure in the pictures, but one looks like it could have a bit of separation between the block and the babbitt.
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Old 06-08-2015, 12:24 PM   #10
H. L. Chauvin
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

Mr. Herm's response no. 9 appears to be as effective as a quick response to a solemn prayer calling for Babbitt Help.
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Old 06-08-2015, 01:18 PM   #11
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

I also think you had too much advance. That's the advance I use with my totally stock engine with only 50 lbs. compression. I would stop advancing the spark as soon as the engine no longer picks up speed or power, and not go until just before you hear detonation.
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Old 06-08-2015, 07:26 PM   #12
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

Wow, this is like waking up on Christmas morning to a bed covered in presents!
Answering as the advice came:
Rex A Lott. Thanks. Jim Brierly says he used the same old babbitt over and over in his racer for many years, and as you say did not back off to preserve it.
Herm has replied as you suggest and I will be addressing his suggestions today.
HERM. Once again eagle eyes! I will do as you say and remove the loose piece. I will pull the pistons out too and see if No3 is galled up near the lands. It locked up once at 4000 miles and seemed fine when cooled but i only used a bore scope and never took it out. That is the only Ally in the engine. I will put the babbitt under my metallurgists microscope and peer at it too and try a Barcol hardness test etc. The rods are as supplied by Schwalms and I have not had this engine apart since rebuilt by them, except to fix a burnt valve in no3
BoB Bidonde. As always good advice from you. I will analyse the babbitt for lead and have a poke at it under the microscope too. I think the rods are straight. When I pull them out I will clock them up as best I can in my mill. I believe .001 across the small end for parallelism ans twist is specified. I should see this easily. The rods are being replaced too with new ones and shells fro Snyders.
H.L. thanks again. I had to show my wife your amusing similes and metaphors. Good advice hidden amongst it too! Shipping the rods is a good idea, since I will not be re-using them. But it seems a bit much to ask someone to comment on another's work - unless I sent them to Ora Landis.
Kevin. All babbit is tight enough not to show oil squish. But it looks like one piece on a cracked rod may flick off with a knife. I will try this and examine the tinning. As stated I will examine the hardness too. I have a Barcol hardness tester (impressor type) which may give meaningful readings.
Tom W. I will certainly consider reducing max timing in future. But as noted, max power on several dyno sites with engines similar to mine all use 28 deg. That is the max I go to and retard on hills from there. But with engine slowing due to the gradient, it is hard to retard until power drops off, because how do you tell? On uphills I retard anyway, and like MikeK said once, I have worn the notches off my quadrant by constant adjusting. I sit at 28 deg only on the flat and minor gradients where there is still acceleration in hand in O/D top. I do not run at 28 deg all the time.
I am nervous too about burning another valve and monitor my EGT. It can get to 800 deg C (1470F) up long hills when retarded too much, and this happens quickly. I also open the GAV on long pulls a tiny bit, but see no change in exhaut gas temp with mixture, despite what learned books say.
Thanks again to all
SAJ in NZ
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Old 06-09-2015, 01:02 AM   #13
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

I have now removed the head, measured the bore, peeled off some rod babbitt and measured the hardness against some #3 babbitt in a puddling stick, and put it under a microscope.
Herm, under the scope middle main does not look like imbedment (pic attached). At 50 and 100 magnification I see tiny craters and polished high spots all looking like babbit. No dirt except in one deep scratch that looks like it was there from the beginning. But I do see light shiny particles on the inlet valve tops, that look like ally and suggest transient detonation. Pics attached. Main cap too big to go under my metallurgical microscope, so put it under a biological one and took a pic down the lense with my phone!
Two pistons have lost carbon against the bore remote from the valves. Maybe due to water ingestion from my low-slung air filter. RHD cars have little room for a good sized filter, unless hung down or extended way up the front past the oil filter spin-on. I "won" the wooden spoon on our recent rally for drowning the car in a creek so it would not restart and may have got water into the carb., since one plug was very clean when I dried them out. But there was no suggestion of a hydraulic-ed motor.
Piston 3 has light scuffing most of the way down the skirt (this one locked up at 4000 miles as mentioned) and the others have minor traces too, I imagine from the overheating episode when an "expert" reset my timing very retarded and I drove it home down the motorway.
Bores are unmarked except some very faint, unmeasurable lines where #3 scuffed. Piston skirt clearances are 0.003 at the skirts (Bores .004 under 4 inches 1.e 3.9960, pistons 0.006 to 0.007 under 4 inches. the smaller piston is in the tighter bore). Checked the mike with its test bar and another mike. Sure these are correct. Used a DTI bore Gauge, zeroed on the mike's 4 inch standard test bar. Measured 10 times because I didn't believe under 4 inch bores at first.
Barcol hardness of removed babbitt 15 units falling to zero as the needle penetrated. Barcol of the grade 3 babbitt 20 falling to about 10 as it penetrated. Unknown Babbitt in an old X section rod read zero - to soft to measure.
Will analyse babbit for lead later.
Pics attached. With flash on cracked babbitt as Herm asked.
I think new harder rod shells and less spark advance will be the answer on this engine.
And less spark and more gentle babying will prevent the same thing on our Tudor.
I recall several people who wanted to try my car lugging it to my horror, causing me tofix the max possible advance at 28 deg. Some drove my car while I tested theirs, so I don't know what they did in my car.
Thanks again for all the help and opinions.
More advice very welcome
SAJ in NZ
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 50 X babbitt centre main cap (Custom).jpg (41.0 KB, 106 views)
File Type: jpg babbit removed on rod (Custom).jpg (38.4 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg roadster pistons (Custom).jpg (60.1 KB, 110 views)
File Type: jpg No 3 scuffed bore (Custom).jpg (43.4 KB, 106 views)
File Type: jpg no 4 valves (Custom).jpg (60.6 KB, 105 views)
File Type: jpg babbit removed on rod2 (Custom).jpg (38.4 KB, 120 views)
File Type: jpg view of block pistons valves (Custom).jpg (70.5 KB, 116 views)
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Old 06-09-2015, 01:33 AM   #14
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

It looks like it was running rich and number one looks like it's wet, as though it's using oil or wasn't firing.
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Old 06-09-2015, 04:05 AM   #15
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

Good observations Tom. I was trying to run it richer due to an earlier burnt exhaust valve. It got 22 mpg and used 500 ml of oil in a recent 3000 mile run.
And I may have idled it for a long period right before pulling it down while diagnosing the engine. The plugs were a light tan during plug chops at speed, but ran a bit too rich at idle, for easier cold starting in the cold South Island where we were.
Thanks for the reply. I will investigate further.
What did you think about the shiny particles on the exhaust valve. They are not globules but I can only think they are aluminium, yet there seems to be nothing missing from the pistons- no erosion I can see anyway. Thinking about detonation here.
SAJ in NZ
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Old 06-09-2015, 04:12 AM   #16
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

I like your approach and I'd like to say Thanks for posting the pics. I think you are lucky you took it apart before any big damage was done.
I'm curious where you normally run your GAV? I'm with Tom, its looks rich. If you normally run with it shut, maybe the air filter is causing it to run rich.
Also curious what type fuel you normally run, and if you add anything to it?
Hopefully you will get some good comments from Herm.
Good Luck!
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Old 06-09-2015, 04:38 AM   #17
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

Rex A Lott, I really enjoy the technical aspects of these old cars . Your comment about my air filter reminded me we did thousands of miles along dirt roads and my large paper air cleaner got really dirty. I washed it with soap and hot water in a motel at one point - not a good thing but the best I could do at the time.
Carb is a B model, idle jet passe 50 cc water per minute and GAV at 1/4 turn open gives white plugs and 1/2 turn light tan. I was running a hair over 1/2 turn open on this run. Fuel is just 96 RON unleaded, no additives. I used to manufacture RedEx upper cylonder lube, so I suppose I should be using this!
I caught the burnt valve at 4000 miled without other damage and got lucky this time as well. But My training has all been in observation of cause and effect and I have been doing this a long time!
SAJ in NZ
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Old 06-09-2015, 05:29 AM   #18
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

If you get a paper filter wet it can close up the pores, especially if you start the engine with the wet filter. I'd buy a new filter, or buy one that is made to be washed and reused.
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Old 06-09-2015, 06:09 AM   #19
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Tom. You are dead right. I used to manufacture GUD brand air and oil filters so I should know better! But it does explain the black valves
SAJ in NZ
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Old 06-09-2015, 06:39 AM   #20
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

I believe the rod with the broken babitt was never tinned properly. This is why the babbitt fractured and fell out. If the tinning is done correctly, it will not just fall away from the rod. Once tinned the babbitt is bonded to the steel of the rod and must be melted out to remove it. These rods were doomed from the start. If you ran too much timing, you just accelerated the failure. #3 was fitted too close to begin with.
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Old 06-09-2015, 06:56 AM   #21
SAJ
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

Thanks James. There was no tinning in the bit I levered out as you say. The folded-out tinned piece next to it was a fight to detatch with hammer and chisel.
No 3 piston was too tight but may have survived if timing had not been so retarded when an "expert" altered it at 4000 miles and I took it back to my shop before checking it. It nipped up before I got there. It had run 4000 miles with no problem before this event killed it.
Thanks for your comments.
Off to bed now- its midnight here.
SAJ in N Z
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Old 06-09-2015, 08:48 AM   #22
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

SAJ,


Are you running a fuel pump with this engine setup?

From your post #18 above I can say most likely that you are not using a fuel pump.

I have been using B carbs on A and B engines for 50 years.

I always had lean mixture problems with them Using the:

1. "head with a large B" (Most use is with this head starting in 1963.)

2. 6.5 Lion head,

3. Thomas 8.5

4. stock heads.

I finally stopped using B Carbs for a long time.

I had to run the GAV at 1/2 to 2/3 or more but it still had all the signs of being a lean mixture which my Exhaust Gas Analyzer confirmed.

Then some years ago I found an answer to the problem.

Here is an Ahooga post from 2010 of what I found:


Benson

08-08-2010 08:28 AM


Does your Model B carb-run bad with GAV closed?


This was discussed last month on FB ... so it may be of interest to some.

I have had trouble for a long time with a B carb on my Model B engine that will not run right with the GAV closed.

It must be 1/2 to 2/3 turn open (it is better but still not right with GAV 1/2 to 2/3 turn open). Low power, little torque, surging under light loads and running hot around town. At higher speeds and WOT it gets worse. All jets were replaced with a set of flow tested jets from Runner's Corner. Passages checked etc.

I tried several B carbs with same result.

Here is how I fixed it.

A little history first. When the Model A went out of production Ford or Zenith (not sure which) released a second version of the Zenith B Model B carb for replacement use with the Model A.

It had a #20 venturi vs #22 for B, several jets are smaller and most important they changed the fuel inlet (needle valve assy) from #44 to #55.

1. The 44 was for the Model B which has a fuel pump (note: Float spring must also be used in B carb if you have a fuel pump to control fuel surges).

2. The 55 was for the Model A which as you know has no fuel pump.

The 44 has an .082 inch inlet hole.
The 55 has a .110 inch inlet hole.

Do the math: (Pii R squared) and you will find that the .110 has twice the area on the inlet hole, so it allows twice the gasoline to enter the float bowl when you are not using a fuel pump, the pressure with the pump allows enough gas through the 44 inlet and the float spring helps to prevent the pressure from overloading the float and flooding the float bowl).

It is amazing how much better the car runs with the 55 inlet valve (I do not run a fuel pump) with my B carb. Low end torque is much better, surging is gone and the car will now go 65-70 MPH with ease.

Try it you will like it.

I had trouble finding the 55 inlets so I drilled out a 44. (.110 or #35 drill bit as I remember) The #45 drill is .082 and can be used to check the size on the 44 inlet.

Note: I do not know how drilling will work on the "Grosejet" inlet assemblies (the ones with the 2 balls instead of needle jet). I think the ball may be too small and might slip through the enlarged hole!

I looked at several and was not sure that the ball would drop down far enough to allow drilling all of the brass out of the hole. Maybe you could take the balls out, drill and then replace them.

If you are drilling out a #44 I suggest that you use a drill press and set the bottom stop JUST above the steel needle valve THEN drill it out. If you do not use the stop on the drill press you will strike the needle valve with the flutes on the rotating bit, catch the needle and damaged it.

Note I have not tried drilling out a #44 as I have found a couple of #55’s. Maybe the needle will drop down through the seat hole after drilling

Note: I found some inlets stamped 44 and one 55 (that I borrowed from a friend stamped 55). Some of the 44s were stamped with just 4 so you might find a 55 stamped with just 5.


MikeK


08-08-2010 09:01 AM


Re: Does your Model B carb-run bad with GAV closed?


Benson, good info! Perhaps the Zenith A carbs could benefit from enlarging the meager pin-seat hole in their float valves too. Now I have to go find one and play with it.


end MikeK comments

SAJ:

In post #13 you mention that you found NO change in EGT when opening up the GAV.

1. I believe that this is because the fuel level in the float bowl is not being maintaned due to the restricted Float valve inlet. I found similar problems also in the past.


2. Another B carb problem caused by the failure to maintain Float level is that when the Power Jet function kicks in at about 75% throttle under high engine loads, the float level is lowered even more by the demand for more fuel. At the same time the fuel level in the main and cap jets is lowered. This makes for even leaner mixture and all of the problems that go with it.

There are few B carbs with the #55 inlets because these were only supplied on the Zenith after production B carbs.

Last edited by Benson; 06-09-2015 at 12:06 PM. Reason: Several corrections and additions since first posted
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:10 AM   #23
Kohnke Rebabbitting
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

To me, with the flash, the rod babbitt is tin.

I think the rods were tinned all right, as like you said when trying to remove the rest of the thrust, you can see the gray bare metal, the way it should look.

But when the rod was poured, as shown by so many U-Tube videos, they use a strong torch, and mostly a cutting torch, to heat the rod up to temp., and by doing so, they have no Temp. control on the rod and burn the tinning off the rod. That is why the lack of tinning in the middle.

You have to keep the shell at 610 to 640 Temp., If you go over 650 the tinning will burn off the shell.

If you are under 610, the tinning will be sluggish to take the the babbitt pour, and if the shell cools to fast, the babbitt will not stick to the tinning, and you get a cold solder joint.

There is no way to do it that way with out burning the tinning. Your to cold, or to hot always.

So I think with the lack of it showing any tinning in the middle, I think it was burnt off, as it had to go some place.


Herm.
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:31 PM   #24
SAJ
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

Benson. Great info. I will pull my carb apart and see what the valve is. I cannot remember, since I have had Gross jet, viton and all sorts of things in various carbs to stop leaks. I just turn the fuel off every time now to be safe, since someone said "gravity is our pump and it is turned on all the time". It might have been me that said it in my own head - age is creeping up!
I have no pump, nor helper spring on the float. Just the anti surge baffle in place.
My top speed is above 75 mph. I only did it once and stopped for a plug chop which looked a bit white, so maybe was indeed flow-limited by the float valve. I will certainly investigate more and revert. I am more worried about how rugged these engines are than I was.
Your post will go into my B carb reference folder.
HERM. Great info. once again. And very helpful too, since many are secretive about their pouring processes. I wished I lived near to you, then I could have had the old rods rebabbitted with confidence.
I cannot find any reference to Barcol hardness of Babbitts, and this and a ShoreD are the only testers I have. Do you have any info on Barcol for Babbitts?
Thanks again to you both
SAJ in NZ
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:42 PM   #25
Kohnke Rebabbitting
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Default Re: Cracked babbitt

No, Sir, I sure don't.
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