Borescope results - diagnosing cylinder, exhaust leaks

[1931 flamingo]

On MMO, I used to go glug, glug,glug, glug. Won't hurt anything. I also am using it in my new to me 40.
Paul in CT

[katy]

Have you checked the valve lash yet?

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

You seem to not want to remove the side cover but it won't get fixed without doing that.
If the lash is good then the next step would be to remove the valve and take a look at the guide, seat and face. You may be able to borrow [ or have someone do it] a seat cutter set and have the valve faced and then adjust the seat to where it needs to be. Then reset/ grind the lash.

I'm intimidated by valves I guess, lots of precision measurement I haven't done before and tools I don't have at the moment. I have not been able to contact anyone locally who does house calls for valves on antique cars. The local "classic car restoration" shop doesn't work on Model As. I've tried to reach the "local" club (an hour away) but they don't answer either.

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

I'm intimidated by valves I guess, lots of precision measurement I haven't done before and tools I don't have at the moment. I have not been able to contact anyone locally who does house calls for valves on antique cars. The local "classic car restoration" shop doesn't work on Model As. I've tried to reach the "local" club (an hour away) but they don't answer either.

You're probably tired of testing, but but here's two quick and cheap (free) ones. If you suspect bad rings on one cylinder hold a piece of cellophane wrap loosely over the oil fill tube with the engine at slow idle. If there's blow-by you will see rythemic "puffs" against the cellophane. Next, hold a shop rag loosely against the tailpipe. A bad exhaust valve will alternately puff the rag out, then suck it in. Where I worked we had a fleet of early 2000's Dodge pickups that suffered from exhaust valve seat recession. It got so when one came in with a rough idle, first thing I'd hold a rag by the tailpipe. Some were so bad the rag would get sucked almost completely in, then puffed back out. 30 second diagnosis!

[dumb person]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

I'm intimidated by valves I guess, lots of precision measurement I haven't done before and tools I don't have at the moment. I have not been able to contact anyone locally who does house calls for valves on antique cars. The local "classic car restoration" shop doesn't work on Model As. I've tried to reach the "local" club (an hour away) but they don't answer either.

Not that hard, i took off the cover, wound the engine over by hand until #1 exhaust valve was all the way up, then it's time to check #4 exhaust valve clearance.
A folded sheet of paper should be enough clearance.
For #2, #3 valve should be all the way up.

[katy]

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Here's the link to installation instructions for the "oil filter kit" on your car.

https://www.brattons.com/files/index...id/1418137753/

Read that and you should be able to figure out how to remove the side cover w/out any problems. When you remove the side cover be prepared for some oil to come out.

[alexiskai]

Thank you. Looks like the key is to remove the filter itself first, and then detach the tube from the cover via the external nut, rather than trying to remove the cover with the filter still on it.