10-06-2015, 11:53 AM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 5,903
|
35# vs 40# ?
I have read that rod bearings should be torqued to 35#, I have also read that they should be torqued to 40#. If the clearance is .0015 at either torque rating, would the greater torque cause the bearings to be too tight?
__________________
Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole. |
10-06-2015, 12:11 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 438
|
Re: 35# vs 40# ?
The clearance won't change. Rod tightness will be the same at both torques.
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
10-06-2015, 02:33 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
|
Re: 35# vs 40# ?
If a 5# difference in torque changes the clearance, there is something wrong.
|
10-06-2015, 10:56 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 6,340
|
Re: 35# vs 40# ?
If the flats on the rod or cap are not flat and parallel that could cause the parts to bow and pinch the crank. I STAND CORRECTED 45 FOR THE ROD NUTS.
Last edited by redmodelt; 10-08-2015 at 11:04 AM. |
10-07-2015, 08:29 AM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Cocoa, Florida
Posts: 1,609
|
Re: 35# vs 40# ?
The difference you read might possibly be a wet verses a dry torque. #35 wet vs #40 dry.
http://archives.jampot.dk/Technical/...que_Values.pdf
__________________
Wanted: Simmons Super Power Head Craig Likon 1931 150B |
10-07-2015, 10:30 AM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,087
|
Re: 35# vs 40# ?
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
|
10-07-2015, 12:10 PM | #7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 5,903
|
Re: 35# vs 40# ?
Quote:
__________________
Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole. |
|
10-07-2015, 12:23 PM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
|
Re: 35# vs 40# ?
If you're using the castle nuts, then starting at about 30# and then twisting until a cotter can be inserted the rating between fasteners will all be different and quite higher than when first starting.
|
10-08-2015, 10:13 AM | #9 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Saint Louis, Los Angeles
Posts: 82
|
Re: 35# vs 40# ?
So, I've been curious for a while now. What is the best method for torquing castle nuts?
__________________
Nathan - 1929 Closed Cab Pickup, 1929 Tudor, 1930 Coupe, 1941 Pickup - Vintage BMW Motorcycle Collector/Mechanic |
10-08-2015, 03:11 PM | #10 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
|
Re: 35# vs 40# ?
Quote:
Back in those days torque wasn't much worried about. I don't use a torque wrench very often and then only when all fasteners should have about the same 'tonnage' applied to them. When it comes to such fasteners such as the rod and main caps, I start low [ about 30# rods and 70-75#mains] and then tighten just enough beyond that to start the cotter pin. Maybe others do it differently, but, its worked for me for 5 decades. |
|
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|