Flywheel bolts

[Rudolph]

I am having a bit of trouble, I have run a FoMoCo 4 speed for a few years but I got a new clutch plate and the Springs hit the flywheel bolts by about 0.5,

Is there any other low profile bolts that would work with a flathead?

[Rudolph]

Can I use the low profile ARP bolts with out the lock wire? I still need to keep that plate to hold the dowl pins in

[cas3]

chuck em in a lathe and cut em off

[Rudolph]

I need to take about 3 mm off them, it would brake thrugh the lockwire holes and make a mess

[KiWinUS]

Sounds like you may have clutch disc in backwards. The springs go out towards gearbox.

[flatford8]

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I think “Old Henry” had this issue. I don’t remember the solution. Maybe you can search his posts.......Mark

[V8 Bob]

I ran into a similar clearance issue with my new steel flywheel and aftermarket clutch. I was reluctant on grinding down flywheel bolts, so contacted ARP and bought bolts that have a reduced head height. Also removed the flathead flywheel locating dowel retainer that gained over .050". Just lightly stake the flywheel dowel holes to prevent any movement. Overall gain was over .100" that resulted in the extra spring clearance I needed.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

I ran into a similar clearance issue with my new steel flywheel and aftermarket clutch. I was reluctant on grinding down flywheel bolts, so contacted ARP and bought bolts that have a reduced head height. Also removed the flathead flywheel locating dowel retainer that gained over .050". Just lightly stake the flywheel dowel holes to prevent any movement. Overall gain was over .100" that resulted in the extra spring clearance I needed.

I used the ARP bolts as well. These special 12 point bolts have a low, but wide head. I used an aluminum flywheel and needed to use steel ring under them to prevent gauling issues. All fit under the clutch. They are nice bolts.

[Rudolph]

I am using a mitsubishi clutch plate witch has a bigger marcel, the FoCoMo 4 speed has a fine spline input shaft

[Rudolph]

Is it ok to run the ARP bolts with no lock wire

[Brian]

I never run the lock wires, I just torque em up with loctite. Never yet had a flywheel come loose.

[Rudolph]

Originally Posted by Brian

I never run the lock wires, I just torque em up with loctite. Never yet had a flywheel come loose.

What do you reckon about leaving that steel plate out to and punching the flywheel to stop the locating pins falling out?


I had a flywheel come loose on a BMW and when it did it sheared off all 8 bolts anyway, funny thing is I was able to drive home and then I toched the throttle and the engine reved up so fast it clipped the valves on the piston and starter motor just turned the flywheel and not the engine.

[KiWinUS]

What Brian said & yes punch flywheel to retain dowels

[Rudolph]

I will go and see if I can find a set after the long weekend

[Rudolph]

I got some low height ARP flywheel bolts witch look good they have a nice wide head witch is lower.

How meany lbs should I tighten them to? I am going to use some locktite and leave that steel plate out

[Brian]

65 ft/lbs...torque in three stages

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by Rudolph

I got some low height ARP flywheel bolts witch look good they have a nice wide head witch is lower.

How meany lbs should I tighten them to? I am going to use some locktite and leave that steel plate out

The ARP bolts I bought were #P10AP.750-1. ARP torque specs are:


70 ft.lbs with ARP moly.
75 ft/lbs with 242 Loctite. (what I used)
85 ft.lbs with 30W oil.


Always follow ARP torque specs when using their bolts.


The flywheel bolt holes required a very slight chamfer to ensure full bolt head contact, per ARP.