56 customline

[missouri mike]

Does anyone have, or know where I can get a replacement front crossmember for a 56 ford car? I am having a terrible time finding one. Goodell mfg did offer them but I think that gentleman passed away. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!

[mercman from oz]

1956 Ford Customline Sedans from the original Sales Brochure.

[paul2748]

Check with ebay and check with Tee-Bird Products in PA. They had a stock of them, not sure they have any left.

[dmsfrr]

Was there a post here a while back with the same question...
and someone found / posted a set of plans for a build-your-own version?

edit...
These might be what I was thinking of...
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...mber&showall=1

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...nt+crossmember


.

[darrell]

a good welder can fix your crossmember in a couple of hours.

[evintho]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

T-Bird Products website.....
https://www.tee-bird.com/

Download the catalog. Page 18. There's a pic at the bottom of the page.
'55-'56 Ford crossmember - $350.

[missouri mike]

Thanks for all the info and help, I got one and now am wondering if there's any vids out there showing me step by step procedure on installation? I think that you have to brace up the fenders somehow while installing the new crossmember? I'm tempted to cut up the new piece & use the pieces to repair the original to make the job simpler and quicker. Any input would be appreciated.

[paul2748]

I suggest replacing intact. Weld some cross bars at the top and bottom the the frame just behind the crossmember (and in front too if there is room

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by missouri mike

Thanks for all the info and help, I got one and now am wondering if there's any vids out there showing me step by step procedure on installation? I think that you have to brace up the fenders somehow while installing the new crossmember?

In 1981, I witnessed a Ford dealer service shop replace the rusted out crossmember in my '55 Ford car.
1) Remove front bumper and brackets as an assembly and set aside.
2) Remove the large nuts that hold the front suspension A-frames to the crossmember.
3) Remove the bottom stabilizer bolt that holds the center bracket under the splash-pan to the crossmember.
4) Remove the bottom radiator support nuts, washers and springs from the backside of the crossmember
5) Remove the center bolt from the engine front steady-rest that holds it to the back of the crossmember bracket.
6) Get a blunt chisel and hammer and un-bend the tabs at both sides of the crossmember to the frame rails.
7) Get a cutting torch and burn the welds that hold the crossmember to the frame side-rails. Don't forget those two little angled braces connecting the back of the crossmember to the frame (inner frame rails).
8) Might be easier to loosen the large pins that hold the A-frames to the crossmember, but DO NOT drive out the pins completely.
9) Get a house-jack long enough to spread the frame rails apart just BEHIND the crossmember enough to clear the tabs on at lease one side so you can work the crossmember out by pulling it forward. (it might be necessary to remove the stabilizer bar brackets from bottom of frame rail, but as I recall, we oiled the stabilizer bar around the rubber bushing allowing the bushing and bracket to slide outward as the jack is forcing the frame rails out).
10) Might be necessary to hammer the back of the crossmember to get it out. There may also be some molten metal from the cutting torch holding it in position. A sharp chisel and hammer may knock of the slag. Remove the crossmember entirely.
Re-assembly
I recommend spraying a primer and back enamel on the INSIDE of the new crossmember and allowing to dry before beginning re-assembly. Do not paint outside yet as welding needs to occur.
1) Place the radiator support pad on top of the new crossmember. Leave your jack in place while sliding the new crossmember in, working it in one end first, then slide the other end in, aligning the end tabs with slots in the frame. May be necessary to get a second person to hold the crossmember with tabs aligned while you loosen the jack and allow frame rails to return to their original position (in which the tabs will be poked thru the slots). It may be best also to install the large steel sleeves onto the front of the A-frame bushings otherwise, there won't be room to install them once the crossmember is in the proper place. Remove the house-jack.
2) Insert the A-frame pins back into the crossmember, inserting the large washers in front of the steel sleeve install with flat part of washer at top), then install the nut and big washer on the pins behind the A-frame bushings but do NOT tighten yet.
3) Weld the new crossmember to the frame side-rails as it was before.
4) I would recommend applying a liberal coat of rust-oleum black or better black enamel to the welded in place crossmember to help prevent future rusting. Using a brush-on can of paint might be best so that there is no overspray onto underside of splash-pan and other things you don't want painted.
5) For best results, I recommend taking all your hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, springs) and cleaning them to bare metal using a wire-wheel on a grinder motor or dunking in an effective rust remover solution. When all the rust is gone, dump the hardware in a pan of boiling water and leave it in for about 5 minutes, then strain the water off so that the hardware will steam itself dry. spread the hardware out on glossy advertisement paper (the kind you get in your newspaper). Spray the hardware with "Dupli-color" Rust-Fix or other type of acid etch. Allow to dry. (it turns black as it dries). Then turn all parts over and spray the other side.
6) After hardware is thoroughly dry and ready to install, replace all bolts and hardware in the crossmember in the same way they came off.
7) Put the front bumper back on.
It is not necessary to remove front splash-pan and it will not incur damage if the guy doing the cutting and welding is proficient in his work. Its also not necessary to remove the radiator or do anything with fenders or inner fender aprons. As you can see, the whole doghouse is really independent of the frame all around except for the very front center stabilizer support bracket (which you had un-bolted).