Multiple to single clutch Flywheel housing

[moasew]

Hi:

I'm changing from my original multiple clutch(too much wear) to a single clutch in my full restoration of a Canadian June 1928 Tudor. I've already obtained a new clutch housing,pedals,transmission and clutch/pressure plate assembly.

There seems to be some confusion on whether I need to change the flywheel housing. Can the original be modified? Also I believe I have to switch out the original starter ?

I searched for some answers on the forum but nothing concrete popped up.

I appreciate all the info on here...It is a huge help!

[Tom Wesenberg]

The flywheel housing can stay in place. It would be best to change to the later 5/8" starter though.

[Rowdy]

Depending on which 1/2" starter you have you can put a 5/8" shaft armerature in the 28 starter and keep your switch. The multiple disc bellhousing will require some machining to enlarge the hole for the throwout hub. Also some machining will need to be done to the single disc flywheel to clear the bellhousing. To me keeping the 28 appearance is well worth the effort. Rod

[moasew]

The flywheel clutch I purchased from mike's is the lighter (by 20lbs) one made for the V8. would I still need to machine this one?

[moasew]

Sorry I meant the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate assembly from Mike's.

[moasew]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

This is strange. I just measured my original starter shaft (remember this is a Canadian car) and it is already 5/8". Not sure if the bendix will work with the newer flywheel though. Any thoughts?

[Ron in Quincy]

Here are some pictures of a AR bell housing and early transmission I modified so I could use the correct pedals and so forth.

This is the second unit I have converted, the 1st unit went into my Sport Coupe A566; on this unit I used a cut down standard flywheel, and a V8 Pressure plate. I had to relieve the bottom ribs in the bell housings so the pressure plate would clear the interior.

I have sense found by using a diaphram pressure plate no modification to the inside of the bell housing is necessary due to it's low profile .

[briphaeton]

Looks like the clutch arm is extended?

[Ron in Quincy]

briphaeton,

I used the Multi Disc Clutch arm as it lines up with the clutch pedal properly; the multi disc clutch are is longer and has a different angle than the later clutch arms.

Ron

[Kurt in NJ]

If you look in the service bulletins on page 296 there is a list of what needs to be changed to convert to single disc --it's too long for me to type

[briphaeton]

Thanks Ron

[2manycars]

Originally Posted by Ron in Quincy

Here are some pictures of a AR bell housing and early transmission I modified so I could use the correct pedals and so forth.

This is the second unit I have converted, the 1st unit went into my Sport Coupe A566; on this unit I used a cut down standard flywheel, and a V8 Pressure plate. I had to relieve the bottom ribs in the bell housings so the pressure plate would clear the interior.

I have sense found by using a diaphram pressure plate no modification to the inside of the bell housing is necessary due to it's low profile .

What is the diaphram clutch that you used? Does it also require a different throwout bearing?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by moasew

Hi:

I'm changing from my original multiple clutch(too much wear) to a single clutch in my full restoration of a Canadian June 1928 Tudor. I've already obtained a new clutch housing,pedals,transmission and clutch/pressure plate assembly.

There seems to be some confusion on whether I need to change the flywheel housing. Can the original be modified? Also I believe I have to switch out the original starter ?

I searched for some answers on the forum but nothing concrete popped up.

I appreciate all the info on here...It is a huge help!

You have already bought what you need to do the conversion correctly.
Can you post a picture of your starter?
The 1/2" starter will work, but the 5/8" is stronger and easier to find parts for, so you are good there since you said it's 5/8".

[moasew]

Hi Tom:

Attached are five photos of my starter.

Wilfred

[Rowdy]

Looks like the later type 4 starter to me. Rod

[Ron in Quincy]

I used the original very early starter except I converted it to the DR Starter Drive which Ford came out with to replace the Able Drive. The conversion is covered in the Service Bulletins. This way, in addition to looking correct, I was able to use the early starter switch.

Ron

[Rowdy]

If I remember right it is the later type 3 case that will accept the type 4 armerature. Rod

[Ron in Quincy]

Kurt in New Jersey,

The conversion I have made is not covered anywhere.

As a example, the fork shaft in the Multi-Disc Housing is the same diameter but longer than the fork shaft in the later Bell Housings, this is because there is a boss and retaining pin on the passenger end of the shaft, and a grease fitting at each end, the clutch arm.t is also different but to line up with the early clutch pedal you need to use the early shaft, providing you want to make the conversion look like the "A" has a multi-disc clutch. I even choose to use the early Transmission case which has the large reverse idler shaft boss, so the outward appearance does not show any difference from a "A" with a multi-disc clutch.

Ron

[Tom Wesenberg]

OK, you have the later 5/8" starter, but I see 3 things wrong with it.

1. The drive bolt on the forward end (closest to starter) needs to be turned a hair tighter so the lock washer tab can be bent closer to the flat on the hex.

2. The starter switch plunger is really bent to the side, so something is wrong inside.

3. The drive end plate is wrong because the locating ring should be eccentric (thin on one side, and thick on the opposite side).

When the 5/8" starter came out during the end of 1929, the 10 tooth drive pinion pitch changed, so even though all starters had a 10 tooth pinion, the 5/8" drive was a little larger diameter. This larger diameter pinion meant the starter had to be located a bit further from the flywheel ring gear, thus the eccentric mounting ring on the drive end plate of the 5/8" starter. If this starter worked OK on the multiplate, then leave this end plate on because it apparently was a modified starter someone put together.

I would remove the starter switch and see what it looks like inside. My guess is the plunger hole is wallowed out and the insulator is broken or missing where it pushes on the bronze contact strap.

[moasew]

OK Tom:

I don't know how the starter functioned before I dismantled the car as it hadn't been started for at least 30 yrs . I will be dismantling the starter soon and checking out the condition.

Thanks for your assistance!

Wilfred (moasew)