1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Well. I have the pedal assembly back in the truck. Final adjustments must be made in the poaitions of the pedals when the floor board is in place. Humm. I wonder if the brake was maybe too tight and was dragging before?? With the floor boards out the pedals come back farther?? Will double check that.
Here is the new pivot pin in the bracket:


So I took a small chance on these bushings. I split the seam another .040 inches wide about 80% of the length of each bushing. This let the bushing be installed much easier and then the last portion was tight. I just used a bench vice to push the last 3/8 inch into the pedal.
Having turned the pin slightly under allowed the assembly to just slip together with no additional machining.


Ok maybe not very conventional but I believe it will last anoother 40-50 years with no issues. If you zoom in you can see the wider split in the bushing. I dont think it is smart enough to know it was just little more clearance. It also can not escape:


The assembly went well, including the center washer, with only about 1/8 inch movement of the pedals vs about 1 inch prior to the repairs. I am happy with the results:


For this clutch adjusting rod withe the single hole, I had to grind both sides, for the pedal casting to have some clearance:




Also did some work on the floor boards. Sanding the large #2 floor board. The plan is to re-stain it with the ebony dark stain:


The front foot rest floor board #1 has some issues. Will think about that one a little more:


Thanks for all the support.
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

I think that your brake and clutch pedal overhaul turned out very well.


Happy Thanksgiving!

[Tinker]

Great stuff!

[sugarmaker]

David, Tinker, Ford barn folks,
Happy Thanksgiving!
Family gathering today, with turkey and the works. Will try to help Cheryl in the kitchen and visit a lot!
The truck pedal fix should work fine , and last a long time. Glad I took on this small project. Learned some things and can re-adjust the clearance in the brake and clutch also.
Regards,
Chris

[Pat/Ohio]

Chris, you are doing a great job restoring your truck's inner workings! You are an inspiration to me! You will have many hours of fun driving next summer!

Happy Thanksgiving to you and Cheryl and the whole family....and Ruby!

Blessings,
Pat

[sugarmaker]

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Pat, Folks,
A couple pictures. I thought this one might explain better, what I tried when installing the split bushings in the pedal castings. I used a thin dremel wheel to increase the width of the slot in the bushings. The thought here was that it would ease the installation. It did but was still a firm slip fit. I did not go all the way through the bushing length. The remaing very tight portion assured that the bushing was not going to rattle around much. Pushing it in the rest of the way using bench vice jaws pressure to set the busshing into the home postion inside the pedal casting.


Also really glad you folks caught the incorrect adjuster in the clutch. I replaced it with on from Third Gen and I can see it is going to be way better when adjusted.


Back to wood working on the 32. Finally hit me why we call our floorboards, "Floor Boards" because they were! The plan is to now save the # 1 floor board also. Several areas were concerns. The worst was where three holes were added for a foot operated dimmer right under the clutch pedal. Last night I looked at several options to repair this area. I settled on a piece of ash lumber (which was from a tree in the yard) to set into the original plywood as a "dutchman" or patch.
This is where expert wood working skills and tools come in! I dont have either one so I whittled out a spot to remove the unwanted features. Then begin my crude fit up process:


Somewhat happy with the fit, I glued and clamped the dutchman in place. Will it be perfect? No! Some sanding and the black stain and it should keep air from rushing up your pant leg when driving!


Since there are 8 small holes where fasteners came through for attaching the bent metal clips I am going to clean up the hardware and re use these. It should look ok.
I did sand the two metal plates around the pedals and give them a coat of black to stop the rust. More to come on the floor boards.

Regards,
Chris

[tubman]

No matter what your woodworking skills, that patch looks great

[sugarmaker]

Tubman, Folks,
Thank you, Will see how it finishes up.
I am not a skilled master of anything. But I keep trying to improve. When I was a younger guy I restored a antique horse drawn cutter (sleigh) and 90% of the project was thin wood and special joints. I used tools that I had which did not ammount to much more than a corded skill saw a drill and a few hand tools. It actually came out really nice and we enjoied it for years. Like the Ford barn and 32 trucks, I had to do a lot of learning about the subject, the materials, and the methods used to make a 100 year old cutter. If you get a chance to ride in one behind a well broke horse on a snow coverd road it is a very nice quite ride with sleigh bells jingling, as the horse trots easily along.

Regards,
Chris

[38 coupe]

Your peddles are looking good, thanks for the pictures and description. Just a suggestion, you may want to put a jam nut on the clutch adjustment.

[sugarmaker]

38 couple, folks,
Some one else suggested that jamb nut also. I don't see the need but I sure could be missing something too? Both ends are secured with cross pins. Jam nut would take out any movement at that joint.
Working on floorboards tonight. I had to stain them dark to get the patches to blend in. More on that when I get some pictures loaded.
Our rifle season for deer starts tomorrow.

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
The Ash wood patch in the plywood under the clutch:


Mickeys friends or some rodent had chewed a hole in the lower right corner. John said I needed to repir that also.




I used the onex color stain and it did not do much on the ash pieces:


So I decided to try some flat black paint applied wet with a rag. This really started to darken up the floor boards, and even blended in the light colored ash wood too:


I fit the components around the pedals and adjusted the travel in the brake and clutch.


Getting closer. May need a heavier return spring on the brakes?


Regards,
Chris

[Mart]

Nice job, Chris. The boards look great!

Re the jam nuts. It's good practice to have one in there. Nothing would come undone without one, but imagine a vehicle in regular use, vibration while clocking up the miles could theoretically wear the threads.

A moot point with our collector car miles, but that is the theory behind it.

Mart.

[sugarmaker]

Mart,
Thanks! I know how you like to use as much original items as posible also. I was leaning toward making brand new floor boards. With the way these look now I am glad the plan changed back to these original plywood floor boards. I did used some slotted screws to hold the 4 angled braces to the front floor board. They may not be as Ford attached them but look more period correct. Renners corners cupplied the hardware to attach the floor board to the cab.
Regards,
Chris

[Newc]

On the PU's I used a car rubber mat from Carpenter, slight trim at gas tank edge. Newc

[sugarmaker]

Newc,
So it would probably work in my truck too? Maybe my transmission and PTO and hydrulic levers might need some trimming too?
Thanks for the suggestion.
Did the big trucks come with a mat?
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

A taupe-colored mat (BB-76230) was standard equipment in '32 big trucks. It differs substantially from the B-76230 mat used in commercial vehicles, and the array of '32 passenger car mats. The B and BB-76230 mats are shorter front to back than any of the the various passenger car mats as noted by Newc. The difference between the B and BB versions of 76230 is the much larger opening for the BB transmission shift lever housing and the additional levers that the smaller chassis lack, just like the floorboards themselves. I believe that the BB version was never reproduced and the B version is no longer being reproduced.

[flatford8]

Chris, there was a commercial truck thread a while ago and the poster said he used a horse stall mat from Tractor Supply. Trimmed to fit…….Mark

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Thanks on the mat issue and availibilty and options. Not sure I need a mat? Maybe? Will look at tractor supply next time I am in there too. Im sure if I drove the truck more, which I plan to do it would be a good addition to the family!
To button up the brake and clutch area I think I need a stronger brake return spring. It is just not coming back the last 1/2 inch. I don't want any brake drag.

John and I got the 5 threaded ares in the truck floor cleaned and chased the 10-24 threads for the floor screws tot be engaged. These have not been in place for 80 years. My guess is that the owner need access to the battery often?

Minor repairs and clean up of the large thin steel cover for the shift tower and levers. Has to go to the weld shop first. I should have a electrolis tank set up it would be perfect part to allw that process to clean it to base metal.
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

#10-24 or #12-24 for the floorboard screws? Normally it's the latter for '32 floorboard screws along with cup washers.

[sugarmaker]

David, Folks,
All of the front #1 floor borad screws used the #10-24 fasteners, and the #2 floor board threaded fastners seem to be the same also, after cleaned out of all the years of dirt and grime in the threads. I have the cup washers and the new fastners. All good so far. Thanks for the continued support. Maybe the early truck build thing, or a big truck thing, Always learing new things on this ragged ol truck!

This is a Clean and refurb project only so it probably never will be at the level of your wonderful finished 32 cars and trucks. By the way we could use some pictures of your projects in process too! just sayin......

Regards,
Chris