Weeping head studs

[Rudolph]

Its back together now and all torqued down, silicon on the UNC threads and copper spray on copper compensate gaskets, I spent alot of time making sure everything was right, I will let is sit for a few days then heat cycle it and re do the nuts will using just water, have to drain the water each night as its winter here now

[Rudolph]

Did the 2nd heat cycle and re torque and got a few more degrees out of the nuts but felt more solid, I will go for a drive and give it a 3rd re torque

[Rudolph]

https://youtube.com/shorts/WTKDkhmV--0?feature=share

[Rudolph]

I have fitted the 2nd set of best gaskets head gaskets with copper spray but water is percolating through the gasket inbtween the copper and fiber. Its really pissing me off

[koates]

Maybe the heads or the top of the engine block is not flat. Pull the heads again and test with a metal straight edge. Only do your re torqing of the head nuts after the engine has completely cooled, never whilst hot. Otherwise use some radiator stop leak in the coolant for a try first. Regards, Kevin.

[Bored&Stroked]

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If you continue to have some weeping, use some 'Ceramic Seal' from Moroso and follow the instructions to the letter - works great to seal up things like this. Another term for it is 'water glass' - and you can lookup some posts related to it on the Barn.

[Hughes Automotive]

If you are losing just a few drops I would just put some stop leak in it.

[Flathead Fever]

Originally Posted by Pete

Engines that were run with plain tap water will have corosion.
Engines with proper COOLANT will have NO corosion.

I remember seeing an early 1930s Prestone ad and a gallon of antifreeze was big bucks back then. If you lived where it didn't freeze, I bet most people didn't spend the extra money. I have 24 blocks out in the garage and every one of them look like they ran water only at one time. I have never seen one that looked like somebody properly maintained the cooling system The coolant passages are the first thing I look at when buying flathead blocks. If they have pits in the block behind the water pumps, they will have pits on the backsides of the cylinders. When you bore them, you risk running into one of those deep pits.

I still see people running straight water in vintage engines??? You never see used aluminum heads that are not eaten by electrolysis because people ran copper gaskets and no antifreeze. Brake fluid and the "green" coolant should be changed every two-years but hardly anybody does it. Even me, and I was ASE Master mechanic for 30-years.

[tubman]

Re : Brake fluid (DOT3/4) life. I always wondered about this, and after some research, found out moisture absorption is the main contaminant of these fluids. It seems that as long as the moisture level in the fluid is below a certain level, the fluid is OK. Because of this, I bought a brake fluid moisture level meter that measures water content. I have used this for the last 15 or so years and have found that the brake fluid in cars used such as these (decent storage, reasonable usage etc.), stays well below the minimum moisture level for about 10 years. So, rather than changing the brake fluid at some set interval, I test my cars every spring before the season and flush and refill those that start to approach the minimum level. In my opinion, every two years is way overkill, so FF, you can rest assured that you are OK.

[corvette8n]

I didn’t even know a brake fluid moisture meter even existed, what does it look like and which brand works the best.?

[tubman]

Originally Posted by corvette8n

I didn’t even know a brake fluid moisture meter even existed, what does it look like and which brand works the best.?

I got mine from Amazon. It is no longer available. However, this one is similar and can test DOT5 as well as conventional DOT3/4 (the one I have doesn't).

https://www.amazon.com/Qiilu-Digital...792M3HJY&psc=1

[corvette8n]

Originally Posted by tubman

I got mine from Amazon. It is no longer available. However, this one is similar and can test DOT5 as well as conventional DOT3/4 (the one I have doesn't).

https://www.amazon.com/Qiilu-Digital...792M3HJY&psc=1

Thanks I added it to my Amazon wish list, my daughter asked for my Christmas list today.

[Rudolph]

I got some ABRO super seal, its an American made product with sodium silicate with fine copper in it, its a very small bottle and it sed after 15 mins running drain it out. It seems to have sorted it.

All the engine shops sed they run a sealer in a rebult side valve, one shop sed they ran a sealer in anything old.

[Ol' Ron]

Pete, is that 300 HP flathead blown or nitro?? Can't find the aluminum paint around here anymore, It doesn't have aluminum in it anymore!! I never had this kind of problem after I started using the 45ft lbs for 3 heat cycles.
Gramps

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Pete, is that 300 HP flathead blown or nitro??
Gramps

Either race gas or alcohol.
No blowers or nitro allowed in vintage circle racing.

We are O-ringing our blocks now so head gasket goop/paint is not needed.

[Rudolph]

Its still weeping a very tiny amount of coolant, if i painted something onto that conner with a brush it would stop

[Rudolph]

Its only when the car has been sitting for a week, it never dose if its running

[Ol' Ron]

I'm hoping my new intake port modification will improve performance some what. It;s a version of jWL guide design. Not sure how well that worked because of all the other mods. But he never got anyway near that much power. be interesting to see the mods.
Gramps
PS I got 235 hP at 4500 RPM on 3.5 lbs of boost tho. Street engine runs every day!

[Rudolph]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I'm hoping my new intake port modification will improve performance some what. It;s a version of jWL guide design. Not sure how well that worked because of all the other mods. But he never got anyway near that much power. be interesting to see the mods.
Gramps
PS I got 235 hP at 4500 RPM on 3.5 lbs of boost tho. Street engine runs every day!

That would urinate on most modern cars