Shifter handle removal tool

[TJMack]

If you own a Model A and work on it yourself you must enjoy the feeling of accomplishment that comes with a job well done like I do. Here's a small project that is not hard to do and will make removal and replacement of the shift handle safe and easy.

There are a number of good videos on the subject of rebuilding the sift tower so I won't get into the details of that. In a couple of them I saw a simple tool being used to remove the spring that holds the shifter handle in. it's a VERY stout spring so a lot of care should be taken in it's removal and replacement.

I bought a 15" long piece of 1 1/4" steel pipe at Lowes. In a chop saw I made a cut half way through about 1 1/2" up from one end. Then I cut a 3/4" washer in half and ground a knife edge to the cut end and the inner radius of the hole. The washer was then inserted into the cut in the pipe and welded in place.

I then positioned the pipe in the cut-off saw again to make a cut 4 inches from the same end but 180 degrees from the first cut. You can check for the proper alignment by looking through the pipe as it is positioned in the cut-off saw vise. The washer wants to be on the bottom.

Using a hand grinder with a cut-off wheel two cuts were made to remove the "back side" of the pipe. This can be seen readily in the pictures. The tool is ready to use. IT'S IMPRTANT THAT THE HANDLE, NOT THE HOUSING, BE SECURED IN A VISE TO PREVENT MOVEMENT WHILE USING THE TOOL.

To use, slide that tool over the end of the shift handle. The knife edge of the washer is jammed into the spring as near to the top as possible. The tool is then pressed down to expose the retainer washer for removal. HINT: my vise is positioned such that I could use a 2X4 as a lever to help compress the spring.

I found that the addition of a hose clamp below the washer helps retain the spring while putting it back in place. It wants to leave for the moon if not contained.

It's a lot easier and not much more expensive to buy the tool ready to use from Mike's Afordable parts. But you'd miss the fun of making it.

[Brentwood Bob]

Interesting. The spring deserves respect.
I built a Rube Goldberg apparatus to do the same spring removal procedure.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BCIpZuxoLpQ

[P.S.]

Very nice! There is a great, immeasurable satisfaction from making your own tools!! Mine looks a lot like yours except mine has two little teeth (looks like fangs) sticking downward from the half washer that makes extra sure I don't slip off the spring at that critical moment. Anyone who has even done that job knows what we're talking about.

You take DIY to the level of making your own tools, and you're my kind of guy!!

[Russell Reay]

Newbie here. My shifter works OK, but is a sloppy on the right side--2nd and 3rd gears. In the neutral gate it almost feels like there is room for a 4th and 5th. What are the symptoms that a shift tower needs a rebuild?

[TJMack]

Originally Posted by Russell Reay

. What are the symptoms that a shift tower needs a rebuild?

You've got 'em.

The ball on the end of the shift lever and the slots in the forks are probably quite worn as well as the shift rails. New forks are hard to come by right now. Whoever makes them apparently stopped with covid. But I just built up the ball on mine with braze (could use a mig welder) and shaped it as round as I could with an air driven small grinder with a flap disc. It doesn't have to be perfect, but must fit freely in the slots of the forks. If the forks are not worn too badly on the surfaces that contact the gears you can grind the slot out and build the ball up to accommodate the wider slots.

I got my repair parts from Steve Mitchell. He's very knowledgeable and willing to help if you call. Be prepared to spend some time with him. He is VERY friendly and loves to talk.

https://mitchelloverdrives.com/

Watch some of the videos on youtube about rebuilding the shift tower. They are very informative

[TJMack]

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Originally Posted by P.S.

You take DIY to the level of making your own tools, and you're my kind of guy!!

P.S. Thank you for the compliment!

There is definitely satisfaction when it works. You might enjoy this one as well from a few years ago.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ghlight=tjmack

[JayJay]

Russell - I agree with TJMack, sounds like you need a reconditioned shift lever at a minimum, and maybe forks and shafts. I built up the ball of my shift lever with MIG and shaped it by hand. I made a gauge with the right ID (don’t quote me, but 1/2” sticks in my mind) and then shaped the ball until it fit in all directions. I then sent the lever out for re-nickel, which was quite expensive.

If I had it to do all over again, I’d call Steve Mitchell to see if he’d be willing to sell/swap a reconditioned lever. He builds up the balls, shapes them and then sends out for plating. He may have some special tooling to shape the balls rather than doing it by hand. He gets a much better price on plating because he does multiples rather than a one-off. Like TJMack says, he’s a really gregarious guy, loves to talk about his work, so be ready to spend some thoroughly enjoyable time talking to him.

[Benson]

1/2 inch

[katy]

Originally Posted by JayJay

I built up the ball of my shift lever with MIG and shaped it by hand.

Ditto

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Benson

1/2 inch

Thanks, Benson. I meant 1/2" but obviously the typo snuck by. I corrected my post.