A few questions 39 1 ton

[NCSUDucker]

Couple of questions. All fluids have now been replaced, I'm learning to double clutch pretty well, at least going up thru the gears�� I had the oil pan pulled and the sludge (about 1/2") cleaned from the oil pan. I know the purist will get me but had some bolts break off in the exhaust manifolds so we went with the Fenton cast headers. We didn't mess with the carburetor to start with as everything was running smooth. Was excited to drive it with the other day, made it about 15 miles before some trash of the carburetor stopped fuel delivery. It would settle out and start back up but ultimately had to get a roll back. Anyway, I had no smoke in the cab before all of the work was done, maybe a touch out of the exhaust, but before the carb called it quits I was getting a ton of smoke in the cab. When you guys fill the oil do you leave it a little low? It's filed to fill line, wondering if that might cause the smoking issue. I know it could be the rings as well but with it not smoking at all before we did the work, I'm looking for other possible causes. Granted some of it might be burnoff from dropping the oil pan/ filling but I would think that would have subsided pretty quickly. Going to check the road draft tube, anything special for making sure it's clear? Lastly, this one is intriguing, I've read any the cotter pin and the reason for it. The cotter pin is missing and at some point in this truck's history it looks as if someone cut an H with a dremmel tool at the drip hole so that they could *my guess* fold it down/open it? Maybe it was clogged, I don't know. Regardless, the cotter pin is no longer there and the H cut is still there. Is this going to be an issue? Really no way to get the ass end of the cotter pin in without removing the oil pan again (not really wanting to do that). As for the H, short of taking it off and replacing or having it welded I guess I could try a little JB Weld. Granted with a weep hole there anyway, I'm wondering if it even matters.

[38 coupe]

I would leave the cut in the bottom of the clutch area and just make sure it is still open you are down there changing the oil.
Lots of smoke is probably an oil leak onto something hot. Look for where the leak is. If you don't find a leak report back and we will come up with a new theory.

[Flathead Fever]

I had a '33 BB truck I got running. It would clog the fuel line before I could get to the top of my street. So, I pulled the tank and stuck a bunch of bolts and big nuts inside it and sloshed it around, then hose it out. Went for a ride and made it to about to the same spot as before and it plugged the fuel line. Next, I removed the tank and had it boiled out by a radiator shop. It still plugged the line in less than a mile. So, I was going to sand blast the inside of the tank, but I sold the truck. Problem solved, at least for me it was.

I have my dad's '32 roadster that set for at least 15-years and plugged the gas line. I learned my lesson and pulled the tank. I sand blasted the inside of it, behind the baffles and everywhere. I used a piece of 36" steel brake line hooked to the air hose and loose sand to blast the sand around in there and behind the baffles. Then inspected inside. even behind the baffles with scope camera. Its shiny clean from top to bottom. I just need to repaint the tank, but I had a stroke, and I just don't feel like it right now. There's a reason you see so many old gas tanks for sale at swap meets, it's because they have problems and have been replaced with a modern tank. I'd still rather restore an original tank, that "fits" like it is supposed to.

The smoke could be from the piston rings being stuck from sitting so long, or it could be the reason somebody quit driving it. You'll just need to drive it for a little while and see.

I assume those cotter pins were a state-of-the-art part designed to wiggle around in there and keep the hole open so the clutch wouldn't get oil soaked. All the flatheads have them. I used to think the old-time driveways that were poured with two strips of concrete, with the center strip left open to the dirt were probably done to save money. Then when I got into flatheads, I realized it was so the leaking oil had a place to soak into the ground. Even the Mustang GTs like my dad bought new around 1982 had a factory strip of steel over the "H" exhaust pipe so when the rear main seal started leaking it would hit the piece of steel and run over the "H" pipe rather than burn on the exhaust. That was a factory Ford engineered solution. They finally got rid of the old-style split seals and now there are no more engine leaks.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Flathead Fever

I have my dad's '32 roadster that set for at least 15-years and plugged the gas line. I learned my lesson and pulled the tank. I sand blasted the inside of it, behind the baffles and everywhere. I used a piece of 36" steel brake line hooked to the air hose and loose sand to blast the sand around in there and behind the baffles. Then inspected inside. even behind the baffles with scope camera. Its shiny clean from top to bottom. I just need to repaint the tank, but I had a stroke, and I just don't feel like it right now. There's a reason you see so many old gas tanks for sale at swap meets, it's because they have problems and have been replaced with a modern tank. I'd still rather restore an original tank, that "fits" like it is supposed to.

And that's one good reason not to buy an old gas tank. Sandblasting anything that can trap the sand to ultimately find its way into the engines bearings and cylinders is not the best idea in the world.

[GB SISSON]

In my opinion Flathead Fever's sandblasting is the start of a great repair. Me, I would then coat the tank with whatever might be considered the 'best' sloshing type of gas tank sealer. I have had good success with the sealers, but I've also painted enough compromised steel to know that preparation is the key factor to a good and lasting bond. All the pre-treatments that the sealer companies sell for us to prep our rusty tanks with can't hold a candle to the inner sandblasting for surface prep. After the sandblasting I would still rinse with the suggested chemicals and follow all the directions. This (the sealer) will glue down any sand grains hiding behind a baffle.

[NCSUDucker]

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Appreciate the input. Will look for a leak, but definitely had more smoke coming out of the breather after the oil change as there was none prior to the oil change. Granted it had been sitting for about 10 years prior to me purchasing it. On a related note, I've seen mention of a company that restores tanks on here by cutting them open to clean but can't find the thread again. I've got a spare tank so might send it in to have it restored if someone can point me in the right direction.

[Terry,OH]

You may have the wrong dip stick or dip stick tube. About 4 quarts of oil to full on a car without a oil filter.