model A trailer

[oldwoodsman]

The Mullins trailer looks great, but a bit beyond my budget and for some reason I have to do things the hard way.
thanking everybody for the input, now I have a few ideas to work over in my head before I start.

[John LaVoy]

I have used one of the fiberglass Mullins since the 70s. It is lighter in weight, so the Model A can handle the load. The fiberglass is easy to keep up. I like the fact that it is lockable. Several years ago we ran an article on where to get the hinges and locks available new.

[txturbo]

Here is what I plan to pull someday.

[oldwoodsman]

Originally Posted by txturbo

Here is what I plan to pull someday.

Turbo...looks like it needs a little TLC

[frank mcdaniels]

oldwoodsman, I also made one from a model T pickup box. It looks like the otherones pictured. I use it alot and it trailers fine. I got spindles with the model A bolt pattern at pioneer rim and wheel. I made a straight axle from square tubing. I also would advise against using original axels because I think they add to much weight and your going to want to have the springs 90 degrees to the axle anyway (not parallel like on the car originally).Springs and shackles are cheap. I used regular trailer fenders on the sides of the box. Looks good and works well. Frank

[txturbo]

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Originally Posted by oldwoodsman

Turbo...looks like it needs a little TLC

That's what it looked like when I got it....it's still undergoing a rebuild.

[A Model Man]

Here is an interesting article about a Model A camping group:
http://issuu.com/cooltears/docs/2014_0102low

[ctvpa]

Be sure to check your local laws. Here in Mass we must have a certified trailer axle. We cannot fabricate one from an old axle. But you can get an axle at Tractor supply that fits the model A wheels, at an affordable price. They have the springs and everything that fit for easy fabrication.

[SeaSlugs]

sometimes i wish we did - theres some real scrap heaps attempting to roll down the road...

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Old,

Model A front axles make great utility trailers and/or boat trailers.

They were very common in rural areas & were later towed at 70mph on interstates without a problem.

Many different designs were used back then; however, -- today with so much vehicle theft, some DMV's want invoices for materials used to build "homemade" trailers -- check with DMV first.

One good design that will last over 75 years with constant use is:

1. Use a standard Model A front axle with attached wishbone, front backing plates, good spindles, good king pins, adjustable tie rod & with standard front spring attached in standard shackles. (Clamp tie rod to one leg of wishbone with a heavy duty "U" bolt & tighten both "U" bolt nuts after setting wheel toe-in at about 1/32").

2. Remove brake shoes, brake springs etc. & install used steel drums with good lugs & new front wheel bearings -- brakes will not be used.

3. No need for shocks -- front spring is adjustable depending on loads -- with spring left as is with very light loads such as light boats, there will be far too much bouncing -- after trailer is partially built place rear frame of trailer under a raised house, bear down on the tongue, & wrap a heavy duty chain around the top of the spring, (4x6 transverse member mentioned below), & bottom of axle & place bolt in chain after spring is compressed -- with trial & error on how tight to adjust spring one can obtain good results & prevent too much bouncing depending on heavy or light loads.

4. To set tongue 90 degrees to the axle, always measure equal distances from the exact center of the trailer tongue ball to the exact front center of each steel wheel rim or front center of each rubber tire.

5. With two square corner "U" bolts, (similar to rear spring "U" bolts), clamp a 4x6 piece of white oak provided transverse over the spring -- cut bottom of 4x6 with an arch to fit on top of spring -- place a 1/4" thick x 3-1/2" wide x full length plate on top of 4x6 with a vertical 7/16" thru-bolt near both ends, one right & one left through steel plate & 4x6.

6. Floor beams, treated 2x4's can be attached to 4x6 oak with 1/8" thick 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" vertical steel angles thru-bolted to sides of 2x4's and through bolted to read side of 4x6 oak -- allow 2x4's to rest on 4x6 oak.

7. A 4x4 steel tube makes a good tongue.

8. Lots more detail, but this may help to get a good start -- Model A rear fenders with Model A tail lights can be bolted to trailer sides -- use same to attach lighted trailer license.

[John LaVoy]

I saw this and thought if I was going camping this would be the way to go!

[Brobrian]

Man, I have been wanting a proper looking model A trailer for my PU too. I'd fit mine out as a mobile carpentry work station. Or how about a nice Panhead loaded in the back.
Ahh, well, someday I'll be retired and can outfit my PU with all the cool stuff.

[CarlG]

I always thought I'd like to have a Mullins, or even something like the pictures in post #15 to tow behind my PU.

[V4F]

where on harbor freight is this trailer discussed above ? ...... thanks .. steve

***I like the $400 small hard-shell covered tear-drop looking one that Harbor Freight sells***

[H. L. Chauvin]

For a quality Model A trailer, to reply #30, might add:

9. One can make an adjustable temporary trailer tongue out of wood that can be lengthened & shortened. Then go to a sandy area or even a grassy area & turn your Model A steering wheel all the way to one side & pull the trailer with your Model A. Next, adjust the length of the temporary tongue until the trailer tires follow in the same marks as the Model A tires -- this length with the permanent steel tongue will help to prevent a homemade trailer from jumping concrete curbs on sharp turns, & helps preventing jack-knifing when backing up -- especially with some Model A owners whose necks cannot rotate 180 degrees -- unless a nice looking gal is seen in the rear view mirror.

10. Tailgates can be made removable & can hinge in (2) separate 2" long 1/2" pipes neatly welded to a 3" x 2" 1/8" thick steel plate screwed to the rear wood cross bar with (4) screws each.

11. Tailgate hinge pins can be made with (2), 1/2" bolts with a bottom horizontal 1-3/4" length bent 90 degrees to fit into the (2) 1/2" pipes -- top vertical part of hinge pin bolt can be flattened & screwed or thru-bolted into tail gate.

12. The utility trailer my Dad made in 1932 was so well detailed, it even had pin striping after painting -- could be converted to a boat trailer -- or even used in carrying (2) wood boats, one on top of the other -- nothing but class. We dismantled it in 1996 -- still have front axle.

13. On his trailer, his spindles were neatly welded to the spring perches with a very short piece of steel pipe running fore & aft, acting as a very neat fixed connection between the spring perch & the spindle -- appears no end to the neat ways our ancestors used to "make-do."

[plind]

Originally Posted by oldwoodsman

The Mullins trailer looks great, but a bit beyond my budget and for some reason I have to do things the hard way.
thanking everybody for the input, now I have a few ideas to work over in my head before I start.

Hi.
Maybe this is something for you..


http://www.poul-hedegaard.dk/Mine%20...xMineBiler.htm

Pic 2 on this side...

Per

[Brobrian]

Since my truck can only haul about 700lb in the bed, and maybe only 500 at full speed, doesn't that mean that my tongue weight would have to be somewhat less than that? Have to be a light trailer and well balanced loads.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Brobrian

Since my truck can only haul about 700lb in the bed, and maybe only 500 at full speed, doesn't that mean that my tongue weight would have to be somewhat less than that? Have to be a light trailer and well balanced loads.

upgrade to an AA and can haul +1.5 tons. not to mention a bed the size that most camping tents can be setup on haha

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Brobrian

Since my truck can only haul about 700lb in the bed, and maybe only 500 at full speed, doesn't that mean that my tongue weight would have to be somewhat less than that? Have to be a light trailer and well balanced loads.

Most non-pintle hitches try to limit the tongue weight to 200 lbs. This because that is about the limit that two straining human backs can carry to place the trailer tongue on the hitch.

Still, you can have a "balanced load" of considerably more in a trailer and still maintain the 200lb or less.

As to the total GVW you can carry, the limitation in the Model A bed is derived from it's original design in carrying people. Think 5 full size adults each weighing less than 200lbs. Factor in gas to compensate for a light person and you have a total weight allowed in the car/truck of 1000lbs. Subtract you and the gas, and you have perhaps 750 lbs

But that the car/truck. You probably can pull more than that. The limitation is more to starting and wear and tear on the driveline (clutch primarily) than any weight on the vehicle. Oh, and don't forget stopping. The stopping inertia of the entire load comes on the brakes of the car only.

Heh. I used my 1996 Honda Civic 5 speed to carry wood from my Dad's house back in those days. I would load the car as full as possible of green split firewood (maybe a quarter cord) and then attach the 4x8 trailer and carry another quarter cord in that. When loaded like that one develops "foresight" to road conditions - "anticipatory driving" I guess you could call it.

And more than one Massachusetts driver screamed past me on the slow uptake in speed after a stoplight.

Gosh I beat that little 4 cylinder engine to death - but the car still lasted 170K miles before I totaled it in a non-wood related accident.

Joe K

[John LaVoy]

I have towed a replica Mullins since the mid 70s. The sedan has a receiver hitch that was built just for that purpose. It is a great way to carry everything you need for an extended tour.