model A trailer

[oldwoodsman]

I'm looking for some Ideas for fabing a lightweight model A trailer for a camping trip I plan to make next summer. I have a complete front axle and a rear end and was wondering which would be more suitable for a trailer, I've heard of them built from both. Any ideas or pictures would be much appreciated.
Thanks Tim

[SeaSlugs]

hmm, rear axle could hold more weight and has the triangle supports to make it more stable but at a heavier cost. Front axle would be lighter but gotta find a way to get and keep the spindles 100% straight.

Not to mention getting the thing registered and cleared thru the DMV to be allowed on the highway.

Either way i think its going to take some odd fabrication skills to get a spring or springs to fit under it and make a steel frame for it all to fit to. Might be better off buying a small harbor freight trailer and building off that. a 4'x8' trailer platform from them is $280.00 with a 1195 lb capacity. easily put a 4x8 sheet of exterior grade plywood down and start building a camper.

Or take it and cut it down to whatever size you want. Could reproduce a teardrop trailer, personally i think their neat and perfect for camping. Model A is going to need all the lightweight stuff you can get and slightly aerodynamic wouldn't be bad at all.

[oldwoodsman]

Should have been more clear. Looking to build a utility trailer to haul camping gear not a camper. found a pic of a model T trailer built from a front axle, but no detail as to how they locked the front spindles

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by oldwoodsman

Should have been more clear. Looking to build a utility trailer to haul camping gear not a camper. found a pic of a model T trailer built from a front axle, but no detail as to how they locked the front spindles

ahhh yea slight difference haha, HF does sell alot smaller trailers. I have seen people use those motorcycle trailers behind model A's before. Lockable watertight very lightweight.

Does anyone have pictures of vintage trailers?

[SkipShift]

[oldwoodsman]

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thanks Seaslug here is a pic of one I found, would like to keep it vintage with same size wheels and tires.

[Bruce Adams]

I like the $400 small hard-shell covered tear-drop looking one that Harbor Freight sells if you are not committed to replicating a Model A or an original teardrop.

[oldwoodsman]

thanks Bruce on sale for $349, but looking for a period look and a little more room. Would like some ideas on locking a front axle if anybody has done it. a couple more pics I found

[eagle]

Not a problem licensing a homemade trailer in MN. I've done it several times. Go to a license bureau and tell them you want to license a homemade trailer. They charge you $20 (???) or something like that and give you tabs to put on the tongue. No plates or anything.

[oldwoodsman]

Thanks Eagle been there done that 28 bucks for a life time lic. at least they're not to fussy about licensing a home made here.

[Bruce,Upstate NY]

I have several: A '67 Cox canvas fold out weighs 667# empty. Probably 950# on the road. Heavy on long grades and hills. My utility box with adapters for A wheels under the fenders has 4'X8' box which is longer than needed. Next is a single swivel wheel trailer with cargo box. Very light and easy to back up. If using a front A axle, cut the tie rod in the middle, flatten the inner ends and bolt through the axle. Sorry I can't post pics.

[Joe K]

Model A wheels are a 5-1/2" bolt circle. Late Model T wheels are a 4-1/2" bolt circle.

See http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...el+bolt+circle

Northern tool sells a 2K 5 bolt 4-1/2" bolt circle trailer axle WITH springs and mounts for $199.

I hate to see a Model A (or T or whatever) axle being used as a trailer. I've converted too many back to automobiles from trailer use.

Joe K

[oldwoodsman]

Joe... I get your point, but I'd like to use a model A wheel, thus only needing one spare. reading the previous post from Bruce about his trailer with adapters for A wheels gets me to thinking about the possibilities of using a northern tools axle.
Bruce... maybe you can describe your adapters.
thanks Tim

[Wisconsinjimmy]

Measure at the middle of the tread at spindle height from left to right and write this number down, now do the same thing on the rear of the tires and note the dimension. You want the same measurement front to rear once you have this tack weld the spindles to the axle and recheck and readjust once you are good weld it up.

[CarlG]

Here's one:

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Wisconsinjimmy

Measure at the middle of the tread at spindle height from left to right and write this number down, now do the same thing on the rear of the tires and note the dimension. You want the same measurement front to rear once you have this tack weld the spindles to the axle and recheck and readjust once you are good weld it up.

yea i was thinking somehting similar but the problem i see is yes to get the "toe" set perfect you can use your method but actually getting the angle straight (so the face of the rim is perfectly perpendicular to the axle) is going to be tricky.

i like that wooden homemade trailer but not sure if i trust that wood beam with the spring shackles screwed to it... that board is under alot of stress. I would at least make a metal plate to go between the spring shackles on the bottom of the trailer.

some interesting links that may get some mental gears going:

5 on 5 1/2 modern trailer hubs:
http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trai...~1|2_Inch.aspx

cross refrence for modern cars+trucks:
http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-r...#axzz2l9leUBAL

may be of some help.

[Charlie Stephens]

Not quite era correct (I am surprised to see post #5) but I think I would step up for one of the reproduction Mullin's trailers.
Charlie Stephens

[SeaSlugs]

Looked up mullins trailers to see what you were talkin about - sounds and looks like exactly the OP is going for.

http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/mullinstrailer.html

can buy one from here with a 5 on 5.5 pattern and choice of fenders to make it look right. Made out of fiberglass so very light weight but durable.

[700rpm]

I just sold this one for $750. Made from Model T front axle and pickup box. I didn't make it, but it tracked real well. The tongue should have been longer.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

yea i was thinking somehting similar but the problem i see is yes to get the "toe" set perfect you can use your method but actually getting the angle straight (so the face of the rim is perfectly perpendicular to the axle) is going to be tricky...

Back in the mid '50s, my Dad had a trailer built from the remnants of a '48 Ford Pickup. The axle was the front axle from the PU, set under the rear springs. The axle was welded so that it didn't turn. It tracked very true, tire wear was normal. He used that trailer on a regular basis for over 50 years, never a problem with the tracking, or the toe in.