replacing distributer bushing

[oldwoodsman]

I'm rebuilding a spare distributor for my Tudor. I need to replace the shaft and bushings in the housing and I would like to know the bushing clearance to the shaft, as I will use a boring bar on my Bridgeport for sizing the bushings. Any info would be appreciated.
thanks Tim

[Tom Wesenberg]

Be sure you support the distributor ONLY by the shaft area when you drive out the old bushings. If you support by the upper cast housing you are sure to break it. I made a jig to hold the distributor while removing and installing the bushings.

I bought my bushings and new shaft from Bratton's and have never had to use a drill, ream, or hone to size them. I polish the new shaft until it's very smooth and shines almost like a mirror. I then chuck it in my lathe and oil it. Then on very slow speed I wear leather gloves and push the distributor onto the shaft. This burnishes the bushings and they fit perfectly. I then wipe the shaft and use a small bottle brush on the bushings to clean them. I repolish the shaft and then reoil and assemble the shaft and housing.

[oldwoodsman]

Thanks Tom. I haven't got the shafts and bushings yet, but noticed they sell reamers to size the bushings, so I figured they needed to be fit to the shaft. Didn't want to spend the $ on a reamer for one distributor, so I figured the boring head would do the job. Thanks for the good advice on replacing the bushings

[just plain bill]

Originally Posted by oldwoodsman

Thanks Tom. I haven't got the shafts and bushings yet, but noticed they sell reamers to size the bushings, so I figured they needed to be fit to the shaft. Didn't want to spend the $ on a reamer for one distributor, so I figured the boring head would do the job. Thanks for the good advice on replacing the bushings

I would say .0015 to .002 max. some bushings are slightly oversize and close down when pressed in to proper size bores.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here's a bit more information on my tool and on distributors.

The 1" long bushings are installed so they end up flush with the edge of the casting. The oil hole enters the shaft area just below the bottom edge of the top bushing. As close as I can measure my installed bushing, the outside diameter appears to be .5625".

My tool has an aluminum plate sandwiched between the wood blocks. The aluminum has a hole just a little larger than the bushing outside diameter, so the old bushing can be driven out through the hole. The brass collar is to support the distributor by the shaft area while in the wood block, and it also has a hole just slightly larger than the bushing O.D. so the old bushing can be driven out though it. Since the bushing appears to be 9/16" O.D., the next size larger drill bit I have is 5/8" and that's what I used. The brass also has a larger hole for the distributor base to fit into. This is .770" diameter by .580" deep. The length of the brass spacer is determined by the thickness of the wood over the aluminum plate. Remember, you want all the pressure to go through the brass to the aluminum plate when removing the top bushing. The brass isn't used when removing the bottom bushing. As seen in the picture, the shaft area of the base rests on the aluminum plate while driving out the bottom bushing.

The bushing driver I made from a 1/2 shaft that I drilled a hole, then cut a slit up to the hole. I then spread the slit slightly so the driver could be pulled up through the bottom bushing until the split just snapped past the top of the bottom bushing. You can now hammer the driver down to push out the lower bushing.

I use an old shaft to drive out the top bushing. You must cut the old shaft ring to about .560" to use it as a driver. I also use it to install the new bushings.

Remove the oiler as pictured to use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the passage. Almost every one I work on is plugged or almost plugged with dirt and old oil. When you fill the oiler every 500 miles, as instructed in the owner's manual, the top bushing will be well lubed.

[oldwoodsman]

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Looks like good advice guys. Thanks again
Tim

[Tom Endy]

It has been my observation that many distributor housings become cracked around the bushing area, especially the top one, during the bushing replacement process.

During service a line of crud made up of metal particles and hardened lubricant builds up between the two bushings. When an attempt is made to press them out using a pusher-outer tool the crud will compact and cause the crack. If the bushings are extremely worn they can allow the pusher-outer tool to slip past the bushing and cause cracking.

The prudent thing to do is to split the bushings with a hack saw blade. Sharpen a nail to a chisel point and tap it down along the split and then curl the bushing out with long nose pliers.

When installing the new bushings press both bushings in from the bottom. This way the top bushing will be in proper alignment as it reaches its position at the top where cracking is more likely.

Tom Endy

[BlueSunoco]

[QUOTE=Tom Wesenberg;876105]Here's a bit more information on my tool and on distributors.

Good illustration with the oiler removal. As a lad I didn't know better and of course what is the first thing you reach for?? Pliers of course. And of course I destroyed that puppy. Felt terrible as you always do when you booger up an original part. Old timer showed me this method after I messed up. Should have consulted him first!

[d.j. moordigian]

[QUOTE=BlueSunoco;876315]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Here's a bit more information on my tool and on distributors.

Good illustration with the oiler removal. As a lad I didn't know better and of course what is the first thing you reach for?? Pliers of course. And of course I destroyed that puppy. Felt terrible as you always do when you booger up an original part. Old timer showed me this method after I messed up. Should have consulted him first!

Next big question....can you get it replated without killing the spring??

[Tom Wesenberg]

[QUOTE=d.j. moordigian;876367]

Originally Posted by BlueSunoco

Next big question....can you get it replated without killing the spring??

I would think it wouldn't be a problem. I used my Caswell kit to give one oiler a zinc plating, and it looks fine. Most of the oilers I worked with still have pretty good original plating.

[dlshady]

[QUOTE=d.j. moordigian;876367]

Originally Posted by BlueSunoco

Next big question....can you get it replated without killing the spring??

Yes, you can.