03-09-2013, 08:17 PM | #61 |
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Re: Valve springs
The main difference in mine is the tubes run on the opposite side of the valves or just behind the valve cover. I don't see any way to drill spray holes in the tube to spray the valves. I will try to get some pics tomorrow. The cam bearings don't have any external way to oil. I don't see any way for them to oil. Many things about this engine baffle me.
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03-10-2013, 08:58 AM | #62 |
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Re: Valve springs
James: Any idea on who built it originally??
Paul in CT |
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03-10-2013, 01:43 PM | #63 |
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Re: Valve springs
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03-10-2013, 01:56 PM | #64 |
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Re: Valve springs
h&h
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03-10-2013, 02:00 PM | #65 | |
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Re: Valve springs
Quote:
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03-10-2013, 08:56 PM | #66 |
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Re: Valve springs
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AL in NY Last edited by AL in NY; 05-23-2013 at 08:00 PM. |
03-10-2013, 09:54 PM | #67 |
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Re: Valve springs
James, sounds like that motor is a hot mess
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03-10-2013, 11:10 PM | #68 |
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Re: Valve springs
Hey Al,
So you are saying that... you still have the rod cap dippers ...in pressured oil engine? Usually, in pressured oil engines, the dipper is eliminated and the dipper rod cap hole (bottom) is filled to keep pressure in/directed as needed i.e.- in rods/mains? |
03-10-2013, 11:56 PM | #69 |
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Re: Valve springs
About 25 years ago,I converted an A to pressure oiling,but it is so much easier to convert the B to full pressure.
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03-11-2013, 05:48 AM | #70 |
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Re: Valve springs
Confusing, but I will work it out. I put the empty block on the mill table and found the block deck to be good. About .003 difference from the front to the rear and less across. It does have a little dish in the middle at the distributor hole. Everything is coming together and as soon as I figure out this oil problem, I am putting it back together. The run in stand is going to be the best test, easier than putting it in and out of the car.
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03-11-2013, 08:25 AM | #71 |
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Re: Valve springs
I am confident that you will get it all dialed in James. I take it we are going to keep the Winfield head on it ?
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03-11-2013, 09:30 AM | #72 |
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Re: Valve springs
hardtimes, I'm using Rich Falluca's inserted rods which have dippers. They are closed off when using insert bearings but will still splash lots of oil around the crankcase from the dipper tray. There is no oil delivery to the wrist pins and I didn't feel that enough oil was being thrown from the pressurized rod journals to oil the cylinders walls, that is why I decided to replace the drilled dipper tray with an original undrilled one. And besides, I didn't design my oil system with racing in mind.
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03-11-2013, 10:06 AM | #73 | |
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Re: Valve springs
Quote:
You taking compression out of the engine? Did you CC the engine? You could run an additional(1/4") line in the chamber, as a "spray bar", too all the springs/guides, with a hole in the floor for a drain in the back. Also, you could drill a small hole(about 1/8") in each lifter boss, for additional oil and control. Dudley |
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03-11-2013, 11:48 AM | #74 | |
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Re: Valve springs
Quote:
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03-14-2013, 07:48 PM | #75 |
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Re: Valve springs
OK, here is where I am at with this engine. The valve chamber has been without oil for the life of this conversion. When they drilled the dipper tray the mist the builder expected disappeared. The oil is plumbed to the bearings and has left the valves without oil to the point the guides are worn out. #3 exhaust was worn from .343 to .383. That's .040 oversize. The rear seal was a mess and the thrust bearings were junk. I have thus far replaced the MG midget rod bearings they used for the mains with a set of AER bearings which the original builder claimed were "junk"?. I also removed the front thrust which was 2 piece steel and brass, screwed to the cap with nothing on the top in the block and the brass thrust seal krap that is sold by the dealers and less than marginal in this engine. I replaced these with a full circle floating rear thrust and a front half thrust which are all cut into the block and non rotational. I used an original steel seal in the block and have sealed it for oil control. I drilled 2 holes in the tubing running through the valve chamber which are directed at the #2 and #3 valve springs for lubrication and filling the chamber so the cam can get some oil and the gears are lubricated. The worst thing that I may have to change would be to put the original valve cover and return tube back on instead of the custom aluminum cover which has no return and the hole in the block is blocked off.
Looks like I am closing in on fixing most of the problems. I don't know how this builder can stay in business doing work like this and charging such prices. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.
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