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Old 02-13-2013, 12:08 AM   #1
Lawrie
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Default body sealing

I,m about to paint then assemble the cab on my 28 ccpu,
I thought that I would use some sort of sealer between the panels and under the windscreen header panel.
Also between the cowl post and cowl.
I thought a SIKA type product but they all seem to be an adhesive as well as a sealant,I dont want an adhesive.
Any ideas what to use.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:16 AM   #2
Logan
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Default Re: body sealing

Seam sealer.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:44 AM   #3
Lawrie
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Default Re: body sealing

would you know were to get that,
I,m in Australia ,but may be able to source it here.
Thanks Lawrie
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:53 AM   #4
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: body sealing

3M makes several good body shop products and should be available at most auto parts stores. I'm not a bodyman and don't have a part number, but just ask for a good seam sealer made by 3M.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:38 AM   #5
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Default Re: body sealing

SIKA flex is a good seam sealer, but is also an adhesive. I use it to seal off the cowl to the floorboard riser, and other areas inside the car, but would not use it to seal the cowl to the cowl post, except in the corner where the welting does not seem to close the gap entirely. I would not use it below the windscreen either.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:39 AM   #6
Tom Walker
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Default Re: body sealing

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If you want to use a silicone or polyurethane sealer/adhesive, you can always apply a thin layer of grease/vaseline to one side of the joint to prevent the adhesion. The parts can be easily disassembled. You may even be able to re-assemble the parts with the filler still intact on one side.

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Old 02-13-2013, 10:01 AM   #7
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Default Re: body sealing

You can get it at most auto paint stores. 3m makes it and I'm sure some others do too. We put it on the cracks where the floor pans meet the seat risers, and anywhere we see a sizable gap the could let some un-wanted air in. Were probably going to even use some on my bosses a-400 to seal up the gaps where the wood subframe didn't exactly fit just right. With seam sealer you spread a little bead down where you want it. Then just mist some water on it with a spray bottle and smear it with your finger to flatten it out and to make sure it's sealing up with crack. Then you can let it dry for a little and paint over it if you'd like.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:21 AM   #8
Craig Lewis
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Default Re: body sealing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Walker View Post
If you want to use a silicone or polyurethane sealer/adhesive, you can always apply a thin layer of grease/vaseline to one side of the joint to prevent the adhesion. The parts can be easily disassembled. You may even be able to re-assemble the parts with the filler still intact on one side.

Tom.
Silicone promotes rust.
Especially when placed near cavities in metal which may accumulate moisture.

Has anybody tried butyl strip sealer between body metal panels after they have been epoxy primered first? (The sealer comes on a roll and was used to hold windshields in cars in the 60's)
Made by 3m, Tremco and Essex under the name "tape kit" available at most major Autobody or windshield supply stores.
Butyl exudes slight traces of petroleum as it ages which I've found completely halts rust formation.
It's conforming nature allows it to squish flat as you tighten the bolts, while filling large voids.
You can come back a year later and retighten, there's no timeline, it never dries out.
Anything squishing out can be neatly trimmed with a piece of sharpened plastic (like a credit card) and wiped to a fine edge with solvent.
It can be painted over and never looses it's bubblegum-like consistancy.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:33 AM   #9
Steve Plucker
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Default Re: body sealing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Lewis View Post
Silicone promotes rust.
Especially when placed near cavities in metal which may accumulate moisture.

Has anybody tried butyl strip sealer between body metal panels after they have been epoxy primered first? (The sealer comes on a roll and was used to hold windshields in cars in the 60's)
Made by 3m, Tremco and Essex under the name "tape kit" available at most major Autobody or windshield supply stores.
Butyl exudes slight traces of petroleum as it ages which I've found completely halts rust formation.
It's conforming nature allows it to squish flat as you tighten the bolts, while filling large voids.
You can come back a year later and retighten, there's no timeline, it never dries out.
Anything squishing out can be neatly trimmed with a piece of sharpened plastic (like a credit card) and wiped to a fine edge with solvent.
It can be painted over and never looses it's bubblegum-like consistancy.
Exactly...that is what I use also...I think it is also refered to as refrigeration tape???

It is BLACK and like Craig said...can be trimed ect. Put it and use it where the wood meets the metal.

Great stuff and not messy.

I think the roll Craig is talking about is about 1/16-1/8 inch thick, about 1-1/2 inch wide and yes...comes in a roll.

Kind of like what Ford called "Dum-Dum". See the Ford Service Bulletins for that.

Pluck

Last edited by Steve Plucker; 02-13-2013 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:18 PM   #10
Craig Lewis
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Default Re: body sealing

For anyone interested I pulled a case of butyl tape off the shelf and took these pictures. ...Please excuse the "non-script" pliers
Butyl tape comes in various shapes and sizes...I like to start with a thick round bead as it'll fill the largest void and readily squishes out of the tight areas anyway.
I forgot to mention CRL as a supplier. (These guys are also one of the last suppliers of "liquid butyl" which I think would be my choice under the roof tack strip...another subject.

Just my thoughts on Seam sealer....it's widely used to cover up "the uglies" by car manufactures and bodyshops worldwide. While it does fill seams and dries fast for painting, it gets hard-like-wood and occassionally cracks away from the metal in highly flexable areas and then the rust starts in behind as it holds water.
Examples of this were the box seams on 70's & 80's Toyota & Nissan trucks.
Upper cab seams on 80's Dodge trucks.
Inner box seams on Ford trucks.
All the seams on VW vans.
Inside the roof drip rails on most vehicles (remember drip rails?)
...I could name at least 100 other examples.
These are all high flex areas and have proven to rust under the seam sealer.
**I need to add that Butyl would not be suitable for any of the above applications anyway...this is just to demonstrate what seam sealer can do if flexed.
While our model A's will likely never see the weather conditions nor flexing condusive to this problem, I would be hesitant to use a hard setting sealer on such a flexible body style and butyl would be ideal sandwiched between bolted together flanges as both a rust deterant and a self healing sealer.
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File Type: jpg S7301784.jpg (62.2 KB, 31 views)

Last edited by Craig Lewis; 02-13-2013 at 01:49 PM. Reason: (spelling & addition info)
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:18 PM   #11
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Default Re: body sealing

Fusor 123 seam sealer i think is a nice product.With practice,it leaves a great seam that dries fairly quickly and is paintable.I love 3M products but for seam sealer,i like my Fusor Brand.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:47 AM   #12
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Default Re: body sealing

I used to work for a truck service body company. We used 3M "Drip-Chek" to seal seams.
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:11 PM   #13
Dan Partain
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Default Re: body sealing

I'll be using the butyl between the wood and metal when I mount the front and rear headers on my 29CC as soon as it warms up a little. I bought this roll from a local auto glass installer.
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