Adjusting Brakes

[dlfrisch]

While driving the car and braking, it nudged and was not smooth coming to a stop. I found a significant section on the rotation of the rear wheel. I figured the drums to be un-round and causing this erratic drag. Being that, the ‘30 Coupe is new to us and it was completely re-built and has all new brakes. I logically, figured the new rear drums need to be ground, so off they came. My point is, it is rather hard to find a shop who will do Model A rear drums. It took awhile, but I did locate a machine shop who took on the task. One hundred fifty $ dollars were their charges and I haven’t tried them yet. While the drums are still off, I am installing new bearings and of course new seals.

Has any other Ford Barn folks found it difficult to locate a brake drum shop, that does rear drum?

Hope this solves my braking problem.

Dave

[Mitch//pa]

i had to buy a special arbor and cone set up for doing the rear drums on my AAMCO machine...
number 1---- 150 is outrageous
number 2 ----- i would do it for free
here is my thread for it
https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...ght=rear+drums

[Purdy Swoft]

If the brake pedal pulsated when the brakes were applied the drums were probably out of round. More than likely there were probably high spots on the new lining. Some people have the relined shoes arced to the drums . Many would rather let the small amount of high spots just wear in rather than have the new lining sanded away.

[FRANK PKNY]

In about 1000 miles the high spots tend to wear down , we always adjusted the brakes after the first 1000 miles. My 39 PU after restoration and turning the drums still had a slight high spot that wore in.

[700rpm]

I would suspect the shoes were not centered before I'd suspect the hubs were out of round. And it's cheap and easy to check centering.

[Mitch//pa]

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Dave,
i understand that the car is new to you and the brakes were rebuilt prior to you purchasing it. approx how many miles have you driven the car with the pulsation????

[29Cabriolet]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

I would suspect the shoes were not centered before I'd suspect the hubs were out of round. And it's cheap and easy to check centering.

Wow! How do you define easy? Centering the rear brakes for example I think is done by either grinding or building up with weld and grinding where shown in the pic. Either process would require removing the E-Brake and carrier; the shoes and probably backing plate too! Wouldn't it?

[dlfrisch]

Thanks to all for a reply regarding my brake situation.

Mitch//pa, - yes, it was a sum-what costly expense. I searched around and that shop was a the only place I got any satisfaction. I had a '29 Pick-up roadster. Sold it a few months ago to a fella in CT and I ran across this '30 coupe all done (so to speak - an that's another long story) up in PA. There is about 7 to 8 hundred miles on it since I have owned it and I did readjust the brakes a couple of times. If, I only knew you're a PA, we could have done some business. Your price seems A OK.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by 29Cabriolet

Wow! How do you define easy? Centering the rear brakes for example I think is done by either grinding or building up with weld and grinding where shown in the pic. Either process would require removing the E-Brake and carrier; the shoes and probably backing plate too! Wouldn't it?

Heh-heh. I said easy to check, not to do. But you don't have to take your e-brake carrier off in any case, unless you are doing a complete replacement on your tracks. I was assuming good tracks and an otherwise sound system.

[Ed Northrop]

My local shop has the same set up Mitch has charged me 20 dollars to do mine

[ian Simpson]

Originally Posted by Ed Northrop

My local shop has the same set up Mitch has charged me 20 dollars to do mine

My local brake shop charged me $30 (prices slightly higher in Canada!). The tech who did the job said that it set up just like an old VW Bug.

Ian

[Ed Northrop]

That is what the shop said that did mine said was he would use the old VW set up