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Old 12-31-2013, 03:23 PM   #1
31 A4door
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Default Babbitt bearing inserts

Who wants to tell me the truth about using them. Good and Bad ??
Who uses them and how much machining to the block is required. I am not interested in using the rod inserts just the block.

Thank you in advance,,,,,,,,,I think. Lol.,
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Old 12-31-2013, 04:19 PM   #2
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Done right either will outlast you.
Babbitt requires align boring after pouring.
Inserts require align boring before assembly.
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Old 12-31-2013, 04:51 PM   #3
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Pete hit it on the head!
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Old 12-31-2013, 06:15 PM   #4
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Inserts require a crank ground to one of a few very specific diameters to 'fit' the standard/undersize shells available. If you have a crank in fine shape that does not match one of the prescribed sizes, regrinding is necessary for use of inserts. Babbitt can be bored to match what is now considered an odd size, say 0.025 or 0.050 under. "Odd" size regrinds (only what was necessary) was common in the Babbitt era. What is your crank like, and how much money do you want to dump into it?

Worst scenario- You decide to go 5500 rpm on a steep 40% grade hillclimb and burn up a bearing. (don't ask)
Babbitt: The crank will probably survive without regrind. Just pull it, straighten, scrape off the Babbitt and repolish. You need to entirely strip the block to properly pre-heat, re-pour, and rebore the Babbitt.
Inserts: The crank will score needing a regrind. The engine can be pulled and flipped over with head, pistons, everything in place to do the job, much easier than the Babbitt route. The insert shells are a drop-in replacement in any of several standard sizes to match your re-worked or replacement crank.

Other-
Babbitt- The alloy will be available in ingots 'till the end of time. The availability of shops that can actually do the job right where it will last long-term have pretty much reached the end of their time. It does require periodic shim adjustment for long life.

Inserts- Availability of drop-in replacements 25 years down the road depends on what inserts were used. If your engine builder bored the block to fit inserts from some obscure, low repair or collector desirability, like a made in Uzbekistan Fukelp tractor, you're screwed. Block machining required to re-fit something else. Inserts that originally fit a SBC or the like, probably will be available forever. Inserts specifically designed as retro-fits for our beloved 4-bangers, like the AER and Snyder's, who knows?

Depending on how bottomless your old-car money pit is, (wife sez mine is a black hole) you could build up a previously insert-bored block with nickel rod and go back to standard dimensions. The advantage to this is you can actually tin the nickel, unlike the original cast gray iron. That would give you a very superior poured Babbitt bond that would not crack away on the thrusts.

Me- My Babbitt pot went cold in 1984. The last engine I did, a 1921 Oakland, ran on #3 Babbitt 'till the owner's son got the car and 'improved' it in 1996 with a toyota engine and automatic trans.

If you can't decide, flip a coin. I can't flip it, 'cause I'll miss the catch and it will go down in my black hole.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:15 AM   #5
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

31A4door: I would call on Mr.Ora Landis,owner/operator at Schwalm's Babbitted Bearings, Inc @ 717-687-6976 Model T,A,B,V8 specialists his Email is [email protected] hope this helps

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Old 01-01-2014, 10:24 AM   #6
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

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"Quote" Babbitt- The alloy will be available in ingots 'till the end of time. The availability of shops that can actually do the job right where it will last long-term have pretty much reached the end of their time. It does require periodic shim adjustment for long life.

Inserts- Availability of drop-in replacements 25 years down the road depends on what inserts were used. If your engine builder bored the block to fit inserts from some obscure, low repair or collector desirability, like a made in Uzbekistan Fukelp tractor, you're screwed. Block machining required to re-fit something else. Inserts that originally fit a SBC or the like, probably will be available forever. Inserts specifically designed as retro-fits for our beloved 4-bangers, like the AER and Snyder's, who knows?

Good Points,Thanks Mike:

We intend to be around for a long time. We also prefer to do babbitt because we can and do it correctly.
As Mike mentioned above there are only so many shops that will do the babbitt correctly.

Also he tapped on another subject that no one has thought of .
What happens in five or ten years when the Chinese decide to stop making bearings for Model A's because they don't sell enough?
Or the quality goes into the trash can like so many other Model A parts???

Makes one wonder.

Babbitt done right should look like this.






http://www.jandm-machine.com/rebabbitting.html
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:36 AM   #7
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

I agree with Mike and J&M about the availability of inserts and babbitt. You will find shops that recommend babbitt or some that suggest inserts because that is what they prefer but you won't find many that will suggest both or doing either. I have had blocks in my shop that were bored for inserts that the bearings were of some obscure make or non-existant and impossible to replace. I also find many different ways to address the thrust and many DON'T WORK or, are impossible to duplicate. In the end, if you go with inserts, you will be FOREVER at the mercy of the builder and only him in many cases. I also, will add, if you have a catastrophic failure with an insert that spins in the block, you have a very good boat anchor on your hands. This last comment is in complement to J&M's comment on spun insert bearings.

I have had motors come in with the babbitt completely gone in the center main BLOCK and CAP, that didn't even need the crank polished to make the needed repairs. This will never happen with inserts Model A or modern.
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Old 01-01-2014, 11:39 AM   #8
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

J and M, man that is some pretty work. Phil
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Old 01-02-2014, 03:51 PM   #9
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Are we addressing rod and main bearings or main bearings only ? Previous owner of my 31 s/w with B engine had a rod knocking . He put in 1964 triumph insert rod bearings and left the main bearings babbitt. Wonder how long this set up will last . Put about 2,000 touring miles on since I bought it . So far so good .
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:40 PM   #10
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Babbitt, properly done and maintained, will last a long time. Most of our lifetimes...
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:14 PM   #11
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

On a side subject, people talk about bearings spinning in the block or babbitt pounding out so it "ruins" the block.
For burned or worn saddles you can almost 100% of the time put a sleeve in it and save it. Many blocks have been tossed that could have been saved had they been taken to the proper shop.
As far as inserts not being available down the road 25 years, just another rationalization by friends of babbitt. If there had been no inserts ever commercially made, any machine shop worth it's salt could make them from aluminum bar stock.
Reasonably priced too.
What it boils down to is what the engine owner decides is best for himself.
Whatever it is, any one of the better shops will always be able to fix him up, even
100 years down the road.
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Old 01-03-2014, 06:46 AM   #12
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete View Post
On a side subject, people talk about bearings spinning in the block or babbitt pounding out so it "ruins" the block.
For burned or worn saddles you can almost 100% of the time put a sleeve in it and save it. Many blocks have been tossed that could have been saved had they been taken to the proper shop.
As far as inserts not being available down the road 25 years, just another rationalization by friends of babbitt. If there had been no inserts ever commercially made, any machine shop worth it's salt could make them from aluminum bar stock.
Reasonably priced too.
What it boils down to is what the engine owner decides is best for himself.
Whatever it is, any one of the better shops will always be able to fix him up, even 100 years down the road.
I agree 110% on all accounts.

My comment for today is if you are worried about not having bearings for the future, buy an extra set and put them on the shelves for possible future use. Other options include rebabbitting current bearing shells when they become worn and re-machining these like rebuilders of many orphan cars that bearings are unavailable for. When there is a sincere will, there is a way.
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Old 01-03-2014, 12:53 PM   #13
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

On the suggestion of making a bearing insert out of solid aluminum. Would that be good for a Model A? My understanding is that the babbitt material, whether poured or on an insert, has more conformability, and embedability. I know that aluminum will "weld" to the crank and spin the insert if the lubrication fails. With splash oiling and no filter or minimal filter, I have been leery of this option.

Does anyone have actual experience with aluminum bearings in a Model A or similar engine? I am aware that aluminum has been used in some more modern engine bearings.

Just would like some info on this, do not mean to ruffle any feathers. Thanks
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Old 01-03-2014, 02:12 PM   #14
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

When an insert go's it just about always takes the shaft!

If you buy an extra set of bearings, what size would you get, and how many different sizes, and sets?

We have bronze, and or Brass inserts made quite often, because of cracks, cranks smashing them, also, typically about 300.00 a hole, and that is not material!

As far as inserts not being available down the road 25 years, just another rationalization by friends of babbitt. "END QUOTE"

That statement is "B.S."

There are lots of inserts that were used years ago that are not to be had now. There are also inserts that are going obsolete every day, and if you find NOS, there 4 & 5 times the money!

If you would try to use Aluminum as a shim, you have to bore the block even more to get the thickness for strength of the Aluminum, and another insert to ride on, and then you have two inserts in the same hole, with two spaces between inserts for oil to be between and insolate heat transfer, as oil is NOT a good Heat conductor!

Boring for one bad insert that spun, never works, unless you have a two main bearing crank.

When you add that third bearing, lots of luck to that align bore!

If your going to make an Aluminum insert for the crank to run on , that won't work without Hi oil pressure. Aluminum will not work with splash, it galls, same as inserts.

This Motor was running good, but was tore down for a crack, had a 100 miles, had a crack.
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Old 01-03-2014, 02:50 PM   #15
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffy1 View Post
Are we addressing rod and main bearings or main bearings only ? Previous owner of my 31 s/w with B engine had a rod knocking . He put in 1964 triumph insert rod bearings and left the main bearings babbitt. Wonder how long this set up will last . Put about 2,000 touring miles on since I bought it . So far so good .
'how long will it last' ? Hm, we'd all like to know..for sure..the answer to that question,eh !
Well, as to same question as regards your triumph inserts, I've had the triumph inserts in my Russian B for well over 10 years and she just keeps on humming with great full pressure setup.
Now, if you get seriously concerned about...'how long'... you have to look to do the work that will preserve them ! That is and can include...full pressure with high grade oil pump; full oil filter system; regular maintenance and clean detergent oil always helps. Long life , of course, includes the basic idea that the 'job' was done perfectly to begin with, opposite, i.e.- poor foundation/short lived engine co-relation (FACT). A lot of (truth) clichés come to mind...such as you get out of it what you put into it; money well spent , etc...
One other thing that will most likely help 'long life', is recognizing that because your A/B runs really well, doesn't mean that you can/should abuse it and expect same same. But, what the heck fun would that be
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:39 PM   #16
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Hi ,,now i am getting really confused with the babbitt /shells debate ,,As someone who is on the other side of the world [Australia] and is weghing up rebuild options on an A engine i am trying to figure where to go ,,i am not sure of anyone out here [Australia ] that i could be assured could do a Babbitt job correctly ,,any Aussies had succes ?,, we have a local "Vintage Engine Expert" that has recently done an A engine that failed soon after ,,he said its a big job to do because he has to "hand scrape" all the bearings to fit,,??,,,by the looks of the beautifull pics above of the J and M babbitt job its a machine finish ,,regarding the worn shell pics Is all that wear from just 100 miles use?,,can you give an idea why ?is it from lugging it?,,,,what is the owner going to do to rectify it?,,
my current engine that i am runningthat came from the U.S.in an A coupe has had a rebuild at some time but #3 rod is knocking lightly but has no shims left ,,so the rest is also unknown Quality ,,,
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Old 01-03-2014, 04:12 PM   #17
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Having a good job on the inserts should be OK, if you have a drilled crank, oil pressure, and a good oil filter system.

If you don't, when normal dirt goes through your bearings and can't imbed, it can't help looking like the pictures.

Babbitt will do the same if the dirt is way over normal.

we have a local "Vintage Engine Expert" that has recently done an A engine that failed soon after ,,he said its a big job to do because he has to "hand scrape" all the bearings to fit,,??"END QUOTE"

Roddy, if he has to scrape three poured bearings, I would call him an Expert. I don't think I would let him put in inserts either, or anything else.

Last edited by Kohnke Rebabbitting; 01-03-2014 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 01-03-2014, 04:16 PM   #18
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

"Quote" we have a local "Vintage Engine Expert" that has recently done an A engine that failed soon after ,,he said its a big job to do because he has to "hand scrape" all the bearings to fit,,??,,,by the looks of the beautifull pics above of the J and M babbitt job its a machine finish

Roddyb34 yes it is a machine finish.
There is no need to hand scrape if you have good machinery clearly something is wrong with the vintage expert.

We recently sent an engine to OZ if you'd like to email me i can give you his contact info.


Also the Aluminum bearing shells "reasonably priced" I highly question that.

Aluminum is not a good bearing material for a splash system.

However in heavy diesels Aluminum has been used "plated to a steel shell" for many years. These engines have full pressure oiling and the crankshafts are also hardened.

In another post someone asked about bronze bearings in Model A well the preferred material on a splash system is babbitt.
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Old 01-03-2014, 04:46 PM   #19
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Quote:
Originally Posted by J and M Machine View Post
"Quote" we have a local "Vintage Engine Expert" that has recently done an A engine that failed soon after ,,he said its a big job to do because he has to "hand scrape" all the bearings to fit,,??,,,by the looks of the beautifull pics above of the J and M babbitt job its a machine finish

Roddyb34 yes it is a machine finish.
There is no need to hand scrape if you have good machinery clearly something is wrong with the vintage expert.

We recently sent an engine to OZ if you'd like to email me i can give you his contact info.


Also the Aluminum bearing shells "reasonably priced" I highly question that.

Aluminum is not a good bearing material for a splash system.

However in heavy diesels Aluminum has been used "plated to a steel shell" for many years. These engines have full pressure oiling and the crankshafts are also hardened.

In another post someone asked about bronze bearings in Model A well the preferred material on a splash system is babbitt.
Maybe we should let the Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engine folks know that because haven't they have been successfully using aluminum and splash oiling for quite a few decades now.

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Old 01-03-2014, 04:46 PM   #20
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

I would like ask 1 of the Professionals here can you go back to Babbitt if you have had inserts in an engine ?
Or is the Babbitt thickness a problem
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:06 PM   #21
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Quote:
Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C View Post
Maybe we should let the Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engine folks know that because haven't they have been successfully using aluminum and splash oiling for quite a few decades now.

.
Aluminum is not a good bearing material for a splash system.

Yikes! I wish someone would have told me...as I have about 80 engines successfully running on aluminum lined AER bearings with gravity oil delivery.
Good Day!
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:31 PM   #22
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in MN View Post
Aluminum is not a good bearing material for a splash system.

Yikes! I wish someone would have told me...as I have about 80 engines successfully running on aluminum lined AER bearings with gravity oil delivery.
Good Day!
Again, people talking about something they do not have correct information or experience on.

Also, most splash systems achieve at least 40 lb per sq.in. oil pressure on the rods when running. Equal to what many modern cars run with pressure pumps.
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:37 PM   #23
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Hardtimes;

Thanks for the response.Well I do not have full pressure or full oil filter system . I still have the splash system with one of those sometimes oil filters.I will keep my fingers crossed and not push the engine and hope she holds up.Or I could pull the engine and have it modified to full oil pressure with inserts in rods and inserts in mains and add a full filter oil system. I really hesitate doing this it has plenty of power and no vibration. This could fall in the category of "if it is not broke don`t fix it ". Do you know if you can still purchase triumph rod inserts?
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:39 PM   #24
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete View Post
Again, people talking about something they do not have correct information or experience on.

Also, most splash systems achieve at least 40 lb per sq.in. oil pressure on the rods when running. Equal to what many modern cars run with pressure pumps.
Pete...I spoke and repeated the quote in jest!
My point...the inserts are working fine with the non-pressurized system.


Good Day!
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Old 01-03-2014, 06:39 PM   #25
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Duffy1,
Triumph rod inserts are readily available. There is a huge collector base, complete with dedicated suppliers and their catalogs, just like SBC & Tri-chevys, VW beetles, & Fords, T, A, B, EV8. Here's one supplier:
LINK

If you think things get a little 'hot' over here, you should see those Brittish car collector boys beat to death a fine point detail like which way the flats on a lug-nut should face.
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Old 01-03-2014, 07:06 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Pete...I spoke and repeated the quote in jest!
My point...the inserts are working fine with the non-pressurized system.


Good Day!
No sweat, I knew you jest.
I was just adding to the fire....lol
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Old 01-03-2014, 07:18 PM   #27
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Not to get too far off topic, but in the 60's the Summers Brothers' streamliner with four Chrysler hemi's ran the aluminum rods (32 of them) directly on the crank with no inserts (with plenty of oil pressure). I have considered the advantage of them for the splash lubricated Model A because they would carry heat away from the bearing surface so much better than a steel rod with cast bearings or inserts. Even though they wouldn't be easily rebuildable, I wonder how they would hold up under heavy use compared to babbitt. The splash-lubricated aluminum rods running directly on the crank that Brent refers to are in engines that are governed to run about 3600 RPM. My 20 HP Briggs had NO wear on the splash-lubricated aluminum rods at over 7500 hours running at 3600 RPM when I pulled it down for inspection. There are several factors that I didn't mention concerning stresses and filtration.
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Old 01-03-2014, 07:28 PM   #28
Kohnke Rebabbitting
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

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Originally Posted by colin1928 View Post
I would like ask 1 of the Professionals here can you go back to Babbitt if you have had inserts in an engine ?
Or is the Babbitt thickness a problem
Colin
I can't speak for anyone else, But, Yes, if the rear slinger wasn't destroyed, or there was a way to fit a rear seal that didn't leak.
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:33 PM   #29
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

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Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C View Post
Maybe we should let the Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engine folks know that because haven't they have been successfully using aluminum and splash oiling for quite a few decades now.

.
Small engines don't use Aluminum rods, they do use Aluminite, and then the bearing can run on a crank Pin.

Most Aluminite rods are stamped as such.

The difference between Aluminum and Aluminite, is like the difference between Lead and Tin Babbitt!

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Old 01-03-2014, 08:42 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete View Post
Again, people talking about something they do not have correct information or experience on.

Also, most splash systems achieve at least 40 lb per sq.in. oil pressure on the rods when running. Equal to what many modern cars run with pressure pumps.

Again, Aluminum can not run on a crank, unless it has inserts, not plain Aluminum!
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:03 PM   #31
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Aluminite was a trade moniker like 'Frigidare'. The name goes back to 1907 for cast pistons and rods. The alloy was the old Aluminum #12, an Alum/Silicon alloy similar to the modern day hypoeutectic 319 and 356 alloys. As a bearing material Alum/Silicon alloys are often acid etched on the contact surfaces to expose the extremely hard silicon crystal matrix within the dendrites. Mating iron or steel surfaces are typically nitrided or hard chromed.

As inserts, Aluminum alloys on steel shells are now in common use. Here are details, right from the horse's mouth:
LINK Note that the surface is NOT shiny, it is matte from a final etch step. Also note in the description the "embeddability".
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:30 PM   #32
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Aluminite was a trade moniker like 'Frigidare'.

As inserts, Aluminum alloys on steel shells are now in common use.

Dammit Mike, I wish you would confusing all the 'Experts' with facts!!


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Old 01-03-2014, 10:01 PM   #33
J and M Machine
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

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Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C View Post
Maybe we should let the Briggs & Stratton and Tecumseh engine folks know that because haven't they have been successfully using aluminum and splash oiling for quite a few decades now.

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Interesting assertion. Then please explain this to all of us.
Why is it that Ford didn't use them in Model A or GM or Chrysler?

Only under pressure systems as on the Federal Mogul website.
Also King Bearings.

Aluminum is a less expensive material compared to Babbitt and is readily available and has been in use since discovered in 1825.

Ford would of saved millions but chose babbitt, Why?
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:08 PM   #34
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

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Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C View Post
Dammit Mike, I wish you would stop confusing all the 'Experts' with facts!!


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What they said^^^^^.
Thanks for the link to Moss's. They have a lot of good stuff.

Anybody care to do a post mortem on the insert bearings shown earlier?

Last edited by hotrodA; 01-03-2014 at 10:19 PM.
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:11 PM   #35
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

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Originally Posted by Kohnke Rebabbitting View Post
Again, Aluminum can not run on a crank, unless it has inserts, not plain Aluminum!
If that is true, there at least 50 antique car engines out there still running with plain 6061T6 bar stock bearings running on plain steel cranks that should be told they can't do that....lol
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:14 PM   #36
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The pop corn is served
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Old 01-04-2014, 12:19 AM   #37
Kohnke Rebabbitting
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Just in case you missed that Mr. Nose, that is Aluminum Alloys, not Aluminum!
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Old 01-04-2014, 12:22 AM   #38
Kohnke Rebabbitting
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

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If that is true, there at least 50 antique car engines out there still running with plain 6061T6 bar stock bearings running on plain steel cranks that should be told they can't do that....lol
I don't know of even one!
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Old 01-04-2014, 12:27 AM   #39
Kohnke Rebabbitting
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

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Originally Posted by forever4 View Post
Gee, you better tell Bill Stipe to stop using his own all-aluminum inserts in his performance engines!

I fail to see what a hi performance engine has to do with a splash engine.

John Deere used Aluminum Alloy inserts in some of the last two cylinder tractors.

Not Aluminum, a Aluminum Alloy with Nickle in it.

I think you boys should put those Aluminum inserts in your Model A engines, it sure would be fine with me!

You would have Aluminum balls everywhere.

Last edited by Kohnke Rebabbitting; 01-04-2014 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 01-04-2014, 02:10 AM   #40
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

ouch,,,aluminium balls,,,,note how we aussies spell and pronounce aluminum differently,,,
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Old 01-04-2014, 02:41 AM   #41
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

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Originally Posted by Duffy1 View Post
Hardtimes;

Thanks for the response.Well I do not have full pressure or full oil filter system . I still have the splash system with one of those sometimes oil filters.I will keep my fingers crossed and not push the engine and hope she holds up.Or I could pull the engine and have it modified to full oil pressure with inserts in rods and inserts in mains and add a full filter oil system. I really hesitate doing this it has plenty of power and no vibration. This could fall in the category of "if it is not broke don`t fix it ". Do you know if you can still purchase triumph rod inserts?
Hey Duffy,
Sounds like you have a fine engine there ! Just keep doing good preventative maintenance and have fun with it ! These A/B engines are amazingly sturdy as ford made them, IMO. I think that Henry would have had a heart attack, if he saw all of the $$$$ and 'improvements' that we , his followers , have made to his invention. It is fun to see all the innovations that owners make to run them hard, but still try to hold them together ...on drag strips, at hill climbs and at todays highway speeds !
I don't think that you will have any problem finding Triumph bearing inserts, as the triumphs are still a very popular car. My inserts are TR-4 origin. 'Plenty of power and no vibration' ...is what we all strive for and it sounds like you've achieved it !!
BTW...I'm going to try going back to poured Babbitt mains and rods with full pressure.
Jim B, a real hard engine using guy, says that he runs a poured Babbitt engine at Bonneville. Shoot , I figure if it lasts year in and year out for him...I may as well try if,eh !!

Last edited by hardtimes; 01-04-2014 at 03:06 AM. Reason: ...........
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:00 AM   #42
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

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Originally Posted by Kohnke Rebabbitting View Post
Just in case you missed that Mr. Nose, that is Aluminum Alloys, not Aluminum!
Who is Mr. Nose? and what does it mean?
Please enlighten me
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:06 PM   #43
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

As I work with various aluminum alloys alloyed for their specific structural, machining and forming qualities, I used the term "aluminum" rods assuming others on the forum would know I was talking about the alloys already in use for non-inserted rods. And thanks, Pete, for offering the alloy and treatment on the rods you mentioned. I'm very sorry to those who thought I or someone else was gonna try using 1100, and I did apologize in advance for taking the thread too far off topic. I enjoy good and helpful people and info.
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:19 PM   #44
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Here is a perfect example of insert bearing damage that can be caused by 1)bad machine shop, "improper clearance", 2)dirty oil, 3) magnetized connecting rods. This was a splash system.
I am pointing this out for the "pro insert" members of this forum as Babbitted bearings wouldn't cause this extreme in short order. This engine has low miles I believe from what the customer told me under 1000, if I remember right.
This was sent to us to do a regrind. This is a new counterweighted crank.

Quote:Again, people talking about something they do not have correct information or experience on.

Well Here are the pictures now what do you say?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_8787.JPG (38.5 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8785.JPG (42.7 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8782.JPG (34.3 KB, 47 views)
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Old 01-04-2014, 03:27 PM   #45
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Default Re: Babbitt bearing inserts

Interesting stuff here.

I'm learning all the time. I do bow to the knowledge of guys like James Rogers, Kohnke, Ora Schwalm, J and M machine------ I wouldn't refute anything these fellows post on here. I've never rebuilt an A motor nor actually plan to, but I sure enjoy reading about all that is involved in it!

Thanks for the pictures and such.
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