30 Pickup Sheetmetal Work

[Flop]

there is some bondo abuse in the doors



no body line on the back of the cab



a little rough around the edges








found out why the body line was gone




door top brazed on






garnish moulding also brazed on



every screw had to be drilled out or had to have a nut welded to it







looks like a mouse and some spiders found a home here!





this one has me confused...



getting closer!

[Flop]

gotta figure out how to make the pictures smaller















some weirdo cement in the pillar?



rot





made the top of the pillar to fix up what was going on




remade evrything at the top the bottom where there was rot and where the tank sits

[zzlegend]

Good to see you starting another one Flop. Keep the pics coming. And don't make the pictures any smaller. Some of us are old and half blind. Good luck and Merry Christmas to you. Mark.

[Ken Ehrenhofer]

Is that Flop at it again???? Good to see your photos as it must mean you are getting well. Merry Christmas to you and keep the photos coming...Love it, Ken

[Spokes]

Thanks for the pix's. Nice work. !!!!

[Tom Bellfoy]

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I dont want to hijack your thread but the devil made me do it - I refer to the 24th. picture - you will notice a round hole in the framework of the front pillar just where the cowl starts to curve and just under the riveted bracket to which the dash would connect.
Who all knows what that hole is for ?

[Flop]

hah thanks ZZ!!

thanks Ken ! Arm is doing ok . still hurts and alot less strength but i gotta keep pushin on !

thanks spokes !


no idea what thats for stovepipe

doors are rotten on top and repaired with brass




first time putting a skin on up top !





drivers side took a good hit .



we may be looking for another door or a top soon . but the bottom will need a full skin as well

[flatheadz-forever]

nicee nice much nicer than the cab I started with

[juke joint johnny]

Glad to see you back Flop!!! Is that Your 1/2 a Coupe in red Primer!

Looks like a Solid one now .WeLL Done !!!

[QGolden]

Thanks for starting another Photo session. I always learn a lot from you.

[Flop]

flatheadz this cab isnt the best but def workable !


juke joint no that is not my coupe.customers.

thanks Q


now all the cement crap in the top of the pillars makes sense !!!

we have a coupe cowl !!!!

[30 A Ripper]

Flop,
trying to figure out how previous owner got some wiring thru the firewall drivers side corner. you have a front view of your cab. Are there any holes/gaps where the slanted wood floor meets the flat wood?

I can't figure how to send pictures and don't know how to find a URL??

Thanks, Dick Lakeland Florida

[30 A Ripper]

finally got a partial view on that firewall corner and found some butchery due to someone installing 70's vintage fiberglass front fenders. unfortunately no way to sleeve or otherwise protect the wires from vibration and possible short circuiting.

thanks anyway

[Flop]

sorry i couldnt help 30


well shes a little rough






things escalated quickly



why dont they make pickup truck subrails ? tudor stuff isnt even close !!



luckily i had some old pickup subrails in stock . they have to be spliced in and the tudor new subrail had to be narrowed on the outer edge . nowhere close to being right out of the box

[rollingsculpture]

check the width of that repro rear sub against a real one you may find a serious difference in the sub being narrow and the curve being off where the cab wraps onto it

[rollingsculpture]

check the width of that repro rear sub against a real one you may find a serious difference in the sub being narrow and the curve being off where the cab wraps onto it also the repro is missing a section that attaches to the rear door post of the cab , look at the comparison pic of my old orig and the repro i had to fab a piece to go there. can put up a pic of that too if you like

[Vin-tin]

Flop,
Rollingsculture is right about the repo rear crossmembers. I bought one. There was no curve where the rear of the body wraps under and it needed some metal added at the sides to make it right. Plus it was flimsy compared to my original. I ended up not using it and made my own out of 16 gauge, using the original as a pattern. It turned out great and looks much nicer than that repo crap.

I'll be watching your progress very carefully on this one Flop. It looks as though your cab is in the same state (of disassembly) as mine was when I bought it.
Keep it up, and keeps the pictures flowing. I love your work and learn a lot from you.

[Purdy Swoft]

Its good to see you back !!!!!!! It would be very interesting to see more pics of how you repaired the cowl, where the tank sits. Keep up the good work.

[sidhartha]

Originally Posted by stovepipe

I dont want to hijack your thread but the devil made me do it - I refer to the 24th. picture - you will notice a round hole in the framework of the front pillar just where the cowl starts to curve and just under the riveted bracket to which the dash would connect.
Who all knows what that hole is for ?

I'm guessing it is an indexing hole that was used in the manufacturing of the cab. Sure curious to know for sure.

[Flop]

thanks for all the info Mike ! I either got lucky or they stepped up the rear crossmember game .

hey vin tin . nothing flimsy about this one . 2 minor mods and it is as good as stock

purdy ... shrank and stretched a piece of metal to look stock and welded it in . nothing to crazy

only 2 things i had to do get this crossmember to stock specs ..a little trim and weld on a new edge




and bracing under the bolt holes

weld through primer on both sides






turns into these

B pillar to subrail .16 gauge sheetmetal



lets build a truck !

[Flop]

uhhhohh !





important bracket in making these trucks solid . rivets to the rear crossmember from the b pillar and also the triangle bracket . fixed the bottom up .it was rotted out .



b pillar rot



need to hit in here ith the spot blaster



bracketry all coming together



not to bad for a bunch or repop/mismatched stock parts !

[Mikeinnj]

Tom - You are amazing !

I can't wait to see my truck when you are done with it !

Keep on trucking !

Mike

[Tinbasher]

Nice to see someone else's work. Flop, what are you working with? Hand tools, Bag and English Wheel, Power Hammer? You must have a "Break" also. Your doing some nice work I hope your getting paid for your time.

The Old Tinbasher.
[email protected]

[Marshall]

Originally Posted by Tinbasher

Nice to see someone else's work. Flop, what are you working with? Hand tools, Bag and English Wheel, Power Hammer? You must have a "Break" also. Your doing some nice work I hope your getting paid for your time.

The Old Tinbasher.
[email protected]

I was thinking the same thing,
What are you getting paid for doing all that work ?
Marshall

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Tinbasher

Nice to see someone else's work. Flop, what are you working with? Hand tools, Bag and English Wheel, Power Hammer? You must have a "Break" also. Your doing some nice work I hope your getting paid for your time.

The Old Tinbasher.
[email protected]

I keep telling him he needs a Pullmax also! I keep messaging him on Facebook showing him machines to buy but he does not seem to want to buy one!! I suppose he is blaming on the money!!

If he only had one he would see how it makes life much easier!!
Here is a (large) clip that proves it!! www.model-a-ford.com/PatchPanel2.wmv

[Flop]

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Thanks Mike can't wait for you to see it ! She has come a long way already !

Tinbasher . Mostly hand tools . Bag and English wheel . Break . Shrinker/stretcher . Bead roller . Jump shear . Thanks ! I eat a few hours here and there but I'm sure most fab shops do . My main reason is pride . What goes out the door I have to be happy with . Which means if I don't like the way something comes out it may get cut out and start again. Also i dont have the luxury of the car leaving painted . What goes out the door is what the customer sees . Also these tools dont grow on trees and are pricy . I wasnt born into a shop or a car repair oriented family . What I have in my shop I have earned and I am proud of it ! The last few months havnt been the best with dealing with a broken arm and a few other things when your hands make the money .

It's tight in here Brent with 8 cars ! I will get one eventually . It just gonna eat room then I gotta figure out the inverter where to put it etc .

Body panels are very easy now . Throw the model a dies on the roller set the fence and roll away !

[Flop]

drivers side is solid now !!

now i gotta wrap this truck in sheetmetal !

[Flop]

cowl patch made in shop and tigged in !

[Flop]

well getting this door all apart



even the ppatch panel was starting to rot out . nust have been a very old braze job / patch



making a new skin . bead roller , english wheel, shrinker stretcher

[silversink]

I'm on my first A and going to be into patch panels soon. I have question---how do you get such a tight fit on the patches? Do you overlap them then cut both at the same time or is there a different proses ? Ai 69 yrs I'm into learning new ideas and teaching the old ones.

[JRHASZARD]

Guess mine wasn't too bad after all !

[Flop]

silver . i dont cut them at the same time . that will always leave you with a fat 16th of an inch gap . the tig welder loves tight gaps . which leads to better resutls. ton of trimming ,filing and grinding to get a nice fit .

yours is a gem John !


cab corners taking shape !

[Flop]

shes a little rough around the edges





and then this weird image came out after running the file over the damage



shes in

[1931 flamingo]

Interesting image ! There's a "cult" somewhere that worships that. Now you can't finish the metal work and paint..................................
Paul in CT

[Flop]

it is smoothed out now Paul !!

so i had the decision to make of putting the patch for the back of the cab in down low and fixing the whole back panel with all of its dents and dings or make a whole panel . the whole panel will save tons of hours in body work compared to what had to be done to the orig panel . Honestly it was only and extra 3 Feet of welding to replace the whole back .



panel we made up



simply welded in no hammer and file work



welds






well thats the end product after hammer and file work

[Flop]

cab corners done !





and the whole back is done !

[Rex_A_Lott]

Very impressive! Thanks for taking the time to post the pics.

[zzlegend]

Excellent work Flop. You got talent.

[Flop]

thanks rex and zz!




made a new door bottom



door skin i made !



hard stuff done..tig welding . some file work done . more to do tomorrow .

[Flop]

well now we have somewhere to sit !! what a riveting day it was !!

[RockHillWill]

Nice work Flop!

[Flop]

thanks Will!

truck is almost done and will be heading back to New Jersey soon !!


some new some old . still gonna put some poly on it to protect it




and fords newest see through door . i dont like where the previous person cut the skin off but i will make due

[Flop]

start of the door skin



time to start working on fit




with a place with little to no hammer access you want the best possible fit in the world .



welded up

[Dave72dt]

That cut line really is close to the body line! I'll guess it was recut to get it straight. Was some crown wheeled into the panel before or after the lower body line work? Always enjoy the tech posts.

[Flop]

i went close to that line to prevent warpage Dave due to no hammer access!

how bout some color!??!

into epoxy



door i put the full skin on !

[bart78]

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Man that looks good. Probably the best it's ever looked.

[28ACoupe]

Originally Posted by 1930 coupe

How do you put the compound curves in the large panels?

Practice and patience.

[Vin-tin]

Flop, as ask previously... Did you wheel a crown in that door skin, or was it all done from the edges with a shrinker?

[Flop]

thanks folks !! all crown or curve in put in with a wheel on the low crown panels . slight shrinks on the edges .

[JackA]

You are braver than I!

[Flop]

thanks every one !! all tied up on my end minus a few screws and bolts!!

[Bob C]

That looks beautiful. Did you use new roof panels above the doors, if so how well
did they fit.

Bob

[Flop]

thank you bob!!

the edge about the door needed stretched to take some curve out of it because the door wouldnt shut . And as you can see in the picture the front where it nails down doesnt line up . I rewelded that area after the picture to make things line up . They are a very nice piece though and well worth the price .