Play in rear wheel

[mtnmice]

I have removed the (left) rear hub to determine what is causing my wheel to have vertical and lateral motion in relation to the axle housing. So far I see that the hub key is worn and fits very loosely on the shaft. Additionally, the axle seems to have a lot of vertical motion (haven't measured it yet but seems about 3/16" in each direction. I have never been involved in a rear end/rear hub project before so looking at the parts is like viewing the back side of the moon for me. Not sure where to go next. I have several exploded views in the vendor catalogs and the usual repair manuals, but don't see any reference to a bearing at the outboard end, that would "locate" the axle in the housing. I guess I am asking for someone to say, "this is what you need to check, and if "A" is worn then replace/rebuild that". Help!

Thanks, Larry

[Richard Wilson]

The bearing is inside the brake drum and locates the axle in the housing. Axle without drum installed does have some movement.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Larry,

If one removes the rear hub, the axle is held inplace vertically & horizontally by the rear axle housing seal & can easily move around.

When the rear hub gets installed, the rear wheel bearing is secured in the rear hub & the rear wheel bearing is secured on the rear bearing surface of the axle housing.

Then the axle is secured in the rear wheel hub.

When the axle nut is tightened to about 80 -100 ft. lbs., the rear hub should get tight.

Not knowing exactly what you have, many in the past do not tighten the rear axle nut enough & adjust it loosely like the front wheel hub nut.

The key should be a tight fit -- appears former owners did not tighten the rear axle nut properly.

Look at what you have & get back.

[Ray64]

With the hub removed you will have that movement.

[mtnmice]

thank you gentlemen. I get it now. An bell went off when I read the last......the rear axle nut didn't have any torque on it when I removed it, but it didn't register at the time. So my parts list is a bearing, seal, and key. Someone had added a washer/spacer behind the bearing I guess in an attempt to gain some clearance from the brake components. It was chewed up a lot. Was this an old school quickie fix back in the day? The drum had been scraping on the e brake toggle and other stuff. What a mess. I am concerned about having enough clearance when putting it all back together. I have a set of conical shims to go on the axle taper that someone suggested....should I try them?

Larry

[john in illinois]

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The axle housing with the brake bands has a tube shape at the end. This is the inner race for the long roller wheel bearing. This race is checked for wear on the under side. If it is flat or worn on the bottom it needs to be taken off and repaired with a sleeve.

The wheel bearing inside the hub that you removed is behind the seal with the snap ring. This needs to be removed and the roller bearing and inside of hub checked for wear.

The tapers on the axle and the key way should fit the hub taper. If they are worn a shim can be used from the vendors to make a tight fit when you tigten the nut to 100-130lbs.

So there are several things going on at once. If your axle nut was loose that may be all that was wrong.

Also pack grease in the bearing by hand. The grease fitting doesn't work well on these cars.

Good luck,John

ps I posted this before I saw your last post. You have the right idea.

[john in illinois]

The shims will move the wheel out you could use 2 or 3. However if things are as worn as they souind you need to replace the axles and hubs.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Any pictures of the axle end, and the brakes parts that were rubbing?

If one shim on the axle taper doesn't work you may need a new axle.

[Bob C]

When you put it back together be sure the axle and hub taper are clean and dry,
no lube or never seize.

Bob