Gas fume help needed...

[Instepdrive]

You guys have been great with all the advice. Many thanks.
My gas cap, tank and fuel line have been checked and are not the problem. Yes, I too put towels over the carbs to suppress the odor. I've been in touch with Charlie and wish we lived closer.
I have photos to post as soon as I figure out how to to do it. You can see the seepage residue. I've read that the fuel pressure should be between 2.5 - 3 but have yet to check. I have replaced the fuel pump and rebuilt the carbs. All the obvious leaks were solved then. It's the seepage now.

[Instepdrive]

I just added 2 photos of the seepage to my photo album. Look closely and you can see the discoloration after one short ride. I carb cleaned them before I fired up.

[Instepdrive]

Originally Posted by scooder

Where are they leaking from exactly? It has got to be fixable, that design of carburetor has been used on millions of vehicles. Maybe a fresh pair of eyes? Can you post pictures? This can be fixed with the amount of knowledge on this here forum.
Give us some details please.
Fingers crossed,
Martin.

Here's photos. The seepage is discolored.

[funrunr]

Looking at your pics of the discoloration, it looks as if the leak starts from the gasket between the "carb top" and the "main body". Both of your carbs have this coloration with the rear looking the worse. I think you need to disassemble, check for warpage, clean and replace the gaskets and go from there.

[donald1950]

you may be leaking from the brass screws in fromt also. i got some nylon gaskets from daytona parts (i think) and that cured my leakage problem. also if the PV is leaking, someone on here modifies new Holly PVs to fit the base correctly and then use nylon gaskets. daytona parts also sells some very good quality gaskets for top cover to fuel bowel and fuel bowl to base....

[scooder]

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Couple of things, I'm not Convinced they are Edelbrock 94 carbs. In one pic you can see the carb top is a slightly different colour to the mid section, like you get when your forced to mix castings to build a better carb. Bit more chromate left on the top (yellow green hue). Secondly, they look to have been way over tightened, looks like the lids have a definite bow to them between screws. When I do carbs, I tighten just, and I meen just past the point where the locking washer flattens out. Their are thick gaskets out their to "seal" these bowed castings, but I feel that these will allow them to bow even more with over tightening. The castings need to be flat to seal properly. You can lap them using thickish glass as a flat base, and some wet and dry paper lightly oiled. If you haven't got fancy tooling. But, the carb top is fiddly, due to the float hanger sticking out on the side you need to face.
I do see what I think is an Edelbrock tag under one of the lid screws, which I see are cross head (not original), but the colouring looks odd from your pics.
I personally think they need some experienced looking at, the bows, the weeping plugs and this apparent mix of parts. Looks like they have been put together with certain parts to mislead someone.
But hard to tell for sure from pics.
Another question, what fuel pump you using? Some of the repop ones deliver to high pressure, and this could also be a factor.
Martin.

Forgot this bit, they appear to me from the pics to be original 94's. And someone passed these off as New Edelbrock 94's. As some folk think that new is always better, and would see this ad a plus point. It's the colouring that's pointing me here, could be completely wrong and they are new, but me radar is a twitching.

[Instepdrive]

You guys are light years ahead of me, but I'm learning. Leakage is visible in several spots. Replacing washers and over tightening is a good possibility after checking and relighting several times. I agree with the warping idea but that remedy is out of my league. The discoloration may be the photo quality. Both carbs have Edelbrock 94 tags and I assumed the carbs were fairly new when I bought the 40 in November.
I really need to find a local "old school" mechanic. My buddies are big block and are Corvette guys, who were shocked when I sold my 02 as soon as this became available. I'm sure ill get this figured out but I hope it's soon than later. I'm leaning toward new 97s and start over. I love this car and all it represents.

[scooder]

If you do go for new 97's get the proper Stromberg 97's made in England. I think uncle Max has them in stock. These are far, far superior to the Speedway knockoff 9 super 7's. They are a picture of engineering beauty. I'm not saying this because I'm English, I'm saying this because they're just plain beautiful.
Is it not worth shipping these carbs off to Charlie for a looksee? Could work out cheaper than new carbs.
Martin.

[funrunr]

I bought my 97's from Uncle Max, I had a local multi carb guru help tune them even though they come with directions. I've never had another problem thus far. Be sure to add a regulator as 97's don't like pressure over 2½ lbs. Either way you go good luck.

[Charlie ny]

In step,
I believe the staining we see is not enough to cause the odor. The red
gaskets on the bowl plugs are ok if the threads are perfectly square with the sealing
faces. I make my own gaskets from Delrin or spec grade nylon and this usually ends
the leak. The staining at the air horn is usually related to the inlet needle and seat.
I try to use only a brass seat and stainless needle. The brass seat with no side bleed
holes will usually eliminate the seepage. What is happening is the 'needle and seats' in
today kits direct the fuel out sideways instead of straight down into the bowl, sort of a lawn sprinkler effect inside the bowl.
What I DO think is occurring is the PV's are not closing or are leaking into the
base/throttle body, and this will smell things up in more ways than odor.
Charlie ny