What's your "Go To" for a hard head?

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

I have a special very THIN hole saw like tool that just fits over the stud that goes down and cuts the aluminum oxidation that is causing the problem. This tool is made to be used by hand I think. I have never had to use it but understand how it works. The metal is about the thickness of a razor blade. Later today I will post a picture of it in my MISC album.

I wondered also, since its the middle very back stud, the one the body ground strap is fastened too, IF the electrical current has "some" effect in conjunction with the "rust" factor and/or any elctrolisis associated with anti freeze.

[Floyd]

I doubt corrosion has any thing to do with it since we are not talking aluminum heads. The original problem is probably a result of "the last guy" in there decided to chase- cleanup-retap the threads in the block. this always makes them crooked and the studs will become a locking device when installed and torqued. An engine that has never been messed with and rebuilt without screwing up the threads will enjoy dropping the heads on without interference. They will also lift off without problems. The original Ford thread in the block cannot be duplicated and should not be touched except with a wire brush.
Been there, seen it.
My experience

[JSeery]

Might try getting the head back flat on the block and try removing the offending studs.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Might try getting the head back flat on the block and try removing the offending studs.

Just discussing that "very" thing on the phone with "Hoop". My only thought IS "IF" the head is that tuff then how hard might the stud be to get out??? Looks like my next move anyway!!!

[Mart]

Try and work out which stud is holding tight. Move each end up and down and observe which one it is rocking on. Put wedges just to the left of the tight one and lift the right side (or vice versa depending on the position of the tight one). Use a bit of savvy rather than brute force. Drench it in the penetrating fluid of your choice. Knock it back down. Lift it back up. get it moving. Get the oil in there.

I had one like that and was able to get it up far enough to slip a thick cable tie through the gap. I was able then to rock it on that and move the other end. I then added a cable tie at that end, and kept working at it adding cable ties as shims. Anything would do, I just wanted something that would not damage anything. Knocking it down on one side will lift the other if a fulcrum is in place (cable ties)

In your case get one end as high as it will go and put cable ties stacked together across the head face near to the tight spot. Then knock the high side down, lifting the tight spot hopefully. Then lift the one end again and put another cable tie on the stack. repeat as often as needed until you have effectively jacked the head up bit by bit until it comes off.

Easier to do than describe but it did work for me once.

Mart.

[Tim Ayers]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by rockfla

Just discussing that "very" thing on the phone with "Hoop". My only thought IS "IF" the head is that tuff then how hard might the stud be to get out??? Looks like my next move anyway!!!

I would think the offending studs are toast at this point.

[Hoop]

Apologize that Rock and I could not hook up a conference call with everyone.

In his photos, it is apparent that the front of the head is raised higher than the rear. This alone will bind the head and get it "cocked." Lifting it "level" will minimize the binding. It should not be necessary to return the head to flush against the block. Messing with the studs would be a last resort.

Should be noted that this is a very original car and the heads probably never removed. I've not seen the original head gaskets but understand they were steel ... but at this point, the head is free of the block. The other side was removed with no problems.

(Under the weather so no house calls ... )

[35fordtn]

Hoop, Rockfla,
I would seriously consider the slide hammer approach I mentioned.. That has always worked well for me long in the last.. Alternate from front to back obviously.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

True, but it might work, the issue is the same. Pictures posted in MISC album. You would certainly have to go slow.

deuce's hole saw from his "Misc" album! DD

[Hoop]

Michael, the slide hammer technique sounds good but that's completely Rock's department. He's finally able to work on his projects in his new shop ... and doesn't need anyone hanging over his shoulder.

(He does allow me to tune up his distributors though.)

[leon bee]

One at a time mig the nuts to the most suspect studs and remove?

[lonewolf]

Put some 3/8 rope in the spark plug holes and hand turn over the motor.

[slowforty]

flatheadmurre has the solution. that is the way mine were removed

[slowforty]

flatheadmurre has the solution. That is the way mine came off.

[Jim44]

IMHO, don't forget the value of compressed air. Use the alternate up/down movement with favorite rust buster combined with blowing out the holes as part of each up/down cycle. Only two things in the hole - stud and corrosion. Each time you blow out some minor corrosion,,you will reduce friction a small amount. Add patience and you should get there. If it is moving some, it will release eventually.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Hoop

Michael, the slide hammer technique sounds good but that's completely Rock's department. He's finally able to work on his projects in his new shop ... and doesn't need anyone hanging over his shoulder.

(He does allow me to tune up his distributors though.)

Hoop
You are welcome at my house "ANY" time you wish to come and stand over my shoulder as much as you like. AS I am NOW taking a "more hands on approach, I have eaten my share of crow on my "knowledge" of these flatheads and constantly learn so I am still a "student" to any teacher available.
Per our phone conversation yesterday, I got it back down on the deck, tried "several" attempts to bring it up as even as possible....to NO avail. It gets to about 75% off and stops dead on that one middle back stud. When its back down on the deck, I can shim the front of the head a little and grab the neck of the water outlet and move it back and forth enough to see PB Blaster getting squished out from around that stud BUT up to a certain point NO moving beyond it. After an hour last night I feel my head isn't quite as "hard" as this head and JSeery's post about "removing the stud" kept ringing in my head SO I got it back down enough to either A) Jam a coupe of Jam nuts together and back the stud out OR B) as another suggested...Weld a nut to it and back it out. That is where I'm at. AGAIN, you are most welcome to come and see for yourself in case I'm having "paralysis of analysis" OR for some reason tunnel vision and missing "something" BUT I feel I have remained patient enough and been through in my attempt.

Thanks everyone for ALL the responses, as always it is greatly appreciated.

[Hoop]

Do not try to remove any studs. Odds are that you will break one ... and you'll be hating it.

I like Michael's slide hammer approach if you can fab up an eye hook to screw into the spark plug hole.

(Thanks for the flattery.)

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

The thing is not to put a crazy amount of force on it cause whatever is binding between studs and heads will come to a point and stopp...no matter the amount of force.
Wiggle them and the crud stuck in there will come out one tiny piece each cycle...not the best meditation but it works.

K.R.Wilson made very thin hollow drills that went over the
studs and drilled the corrosive material out. I have a set of
these, they are about 3 inches long 1/2" OD and 7/16" ID.
You have to keep spaying to lubricate with Rust Buster and
working in and out to remove the junk and keep from binding
up the drill. I found these years ago at an EFV8 flea market
in Penna. They were in a wooden tray with other drills I think
I paid $3.00 for the works but I recconised the drills from
seeing them a K.R.Willson cat. G.M.

[raybee]

It appears the head is a lot of bind. I would remove the wedges and get the head back down close to the block and level, then spray around the stud with PB Blaster. Screw on a head nut on leaving a gap between nut and head. Tap with hammer to loosen rust. Might take a few tries, but could work. Patience is your friend. Ray

[raybee]

It appears the head is a lot of bind. I would remove the wedges and get the head back down close to the block and level, then spray around the stud with PB Blaster. Screw on a head nut on leaving a gap between nut and head. Tap with hammer to loosen rust. Might take a few tries, but could work. Patience is your friend. Ray