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Old 04-27-2017, 08:06 PM   #1
Fillinjc
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Default Manifold Stud Torque

Hi,

Installing a new intake on my 1930 coupe. Using studs and brass nuts I installed a year ago with the engine rebuild. I was torquing to 30 ft lbs. As I was finishing, the front stud began creaking to beat the band. Not even sure where the torque ended up. I am thinking to redo them using Anti-Seize. Les Andrews book says reduce torque by 45% using Anti-Seize. Torque to 17 ft lbs?

Thanks,
Jerry
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Old 04-27-2017, 08:47 PM   #2
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Default Re: Manifold Stud Torque

i didnt think those nuts were brass....

did you check for flatness between the 2 manifolds?
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Old 04-27-2017, 08:54 PM   #3
JDupuis
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Default Re: Manifold Stud Torque

Jerry, I've used the brass nuts in the past. I've also stripped them. Head nuts are the same size. I use old head nuts all the time. Good luck. Jeff
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Old 04-27-2017, 09:54 PM   #4
Larry Jenkins
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Default Re: Manifold Stud Torque

It's the brass that is "squeaking."
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Old 04-27-2017, 10:00 PM   #5
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Default Re: Manifold Stud Torque

Ok, sounds like I have a plan. Dig up my old head nuts and lose the brass.

And yes I did check the manifolds with a straight edge. Could see no gap.

Thanks a lot!
Jerry
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Old 04-27-2017, 10:41 PM   #6
Mike V. Florida
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Default Re: Manifold Stud Torque

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A search will reveal a consensus prefers the copper clad "1931" gasket for the manifold.
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:36 PM   #7
J Franklin
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Default Re: Manifold Stud Torque

Brass nuts are easier to remove than rusty steel nuts when you need to replace the gaskets. I would certainly use never-seize if using ferrous nuts. 25-35 ft#.
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Old 04-28-2017, 10:21 AM   #8
Patrick L.
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Default Re: Manifold Stud Torque

I like brass nuts and anti-seize. Just make sure the hold-downs are installed correctly.

Unless the studs and nuts are really dry I'm concerned about your torque wrench. It is the nuts that are squealing and shouldn't be at at that torque value. 30-35# is plenty.

When using a 'clicker' type wrench always 'exercise' it before using it and start low and work your way up.
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Old 04-28-2017, 10:42 AM   #9
Fillinjc
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Default Re: Manifold Stud Torque

Again. Thanks for the comments. My head nuts are among the missing so I will reuse the brass nuts with Anti-Seize. My torque wrench is a 35some year old Craftsman clicker. I have always backed it down when not in use. 6 or so years ago a Buell dealer verified it when processing a warranty claim on a stripped part. I have been torquing in 10 ft lb increments.

Thanks again.
Jerry
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:05 AM   #10
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Default Re: Manifold Stud Torque

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick L. View Post
I like brass nuts and anti-seize. Just make sure the hold-downs are installed correctly.

Unless the studs and nuts are really dry I'm concerned about your torque wrench. It is the nuts that are squealing and shouldn't be at at that torque value. 30-35# is plenty.

When using a 'clicker' type wrench always 'exercise' it before using it and start low and work your way up.
they will also squeal if theres a burr or damaged thread on the studs. Might want to visually check and or run a die down the threads just to make sure.
If all you have is brass then yea antisieze on the studs, use the later 31 copper gasket with spray copper gasket sealant, proper orientation of the fat "washers" and slowly torque them evenly and that should do it.
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