My next Problem! (Lights burned out)

[Patrick L.]

My steering box is original and always has oil in the switch, doesn't bother it. It keeps it from corroding [ smiley face].

The brake lights should have nothing to do with that problem.

I don't know what you mean by 'completely dead' because it shouldn't be. It should still start and run.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree.
The oil should help it rotate easier, and the spring pressure will push the metal into contact.
It would take some very heavy grease and dirt to make it loose contact.

[RawhideKid]

Hey Terry, what year is this? If it is 28-29, you could have blown the wire to the stop light switch to kill those, unless that line is fused, because that doesn't really run through the light switch.

Just an idle rumbling around in my head.

[Terry, NJ]

Well I guess it's not the oil on the contacts. Somehow I lost all power to the light switch. I assumed it was the oil. There was no readings on the Voltmeter. Man this is discouraging!
This freakin car is cursed.
Terry

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

Well I guess it's not the oil on the contacts. Somehow I lost all power to the light switch. I assumed it was the oil. There was no readings on the Voltmeter. Man this is discouraging!
This freakin car is cursed.
Terry

The horn and lights power is taken from the OUTPUT side of the cutout, so be sure the terminal is under that screw, as well as the terminal for the wire that leads back to the ammeter. Use a test light and trace back to the starter switch to see where the power dropped off.

This takes only a few seconds. Ground the test light clip, then touch the probe to the cutout output side, then each brass wingnut on the terminal box, then the starter switch.