1935 Door Glass Off Track

[Rusk]

I have a late '35 5-window. The driver side window rolls back and down, like expected. The passenger side rolls back and about 1/4 of the way down, then stops. It appears that the glass is off the front track because it can be pushed back and forth inside the door. The track in this door is different than the driver side...it starts about 6" down from the window opening rather than going all the way up.

I've tried about everything I can think of....pulled the regulator and tried several angles to try to get things lined up, but no luck. I can't even get the glass to the bottom of the door.

**Edit** The attached picture is what my window channel looks like. The front part of the channel is what's hitting on the top of the side track and preventing the window from rolling all the way down.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, Bryan

[Randy in ca]

Can't help a whole lot, but I do know that the style of window channel pictured was originally used on the EARLY 1935 models - at least on the 3W coupes this was the case. As far as what differences, if any, there were in the vertical tracks or the regulators I don't recall.

[Talkwrench]

Ive got a 35 pick up and I mine did not have that flat metal plate on the end like yours...? It can be angle of the dangle stuff to get them to work smooth espech' when they are smokers windows and they have to "hook up" in guide that last section when the tab comes into play ..a little bend here and there.

[Rusk]

Thanks for the responses.

Originally Posted by Talkwrench

Ive got a 35 pick up and I mine did not have that flat metal plate on the end like yours...? It can be angle of the dangle stuff to get them to work smooth espech' when they are smokers windows and they have to "hook up" in guide that last section when the tab comes into play ..a little bend here and there.

This is one of the things I was wondering about. So the window is supposed to slide back, then down, and back into the guide (which I've been calling the channel)? It did seem that it needed to move back further, but even without using the regulator, I couldn't get it far enough back to clear the top of the guide.

I read a post by Dick Spadaro that said if the window was replaced and not to exact factory specs, there could be issues. That would make sense, but I still think it's more of an issue with how it's functioning.

I suppose a good question would have been, "How exactly does the window mechanism in a '35 5 window work?"

[deuce lover]

On my 36 5W the window rolls up all the way then goes back to create the vent position.I would think the 35 should be the same and not the opposite.

[Talkwrench]

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Oh God! How does the mechanisim work.. Its real hard to explain..Err um ..
Look at the mech' as it winds up there is like a groove channel in it as it comes over there is an opening to it that picks up that tongue that is in the middle of your window channel it rides inside it and that is what makes it go forward in the last part of its movement.. Mmm really need a picture.. Someone?

[deuce lover]

On the V shaped tab of the channel there should be a stud.That stud goes in a slot on one arm of the regulator.That all in turn guides the kickback of the window.Be nice if you would update your profile and let us know what part of the world you are in.Go to EBAY and type in the search window 35 -36 window regulator.There are a pair of truck ones on there and you will see the arm with the slot.

[35 coupe]

I replaced all my glass last year in my 35 5 window, there are screws that hold the regulator in place and on the arms of the regulator there are spring loaded buttons that go into the track of the window at the bottom. these arms spread out to go down, in to go up. there is a larger screw in the middle on the window track that goes into the slot on the regulator causes the window to go back then down. that larger screw may have fallen off or the teeth on the regulator may be bent. you have to take the door panel off to see. hope this helps

[Rusk]

Thanks to both of you, I see how the mechanism functions now.

Originally Posted by deuce lover

Be nice if you would update your profile and let us know what part of the world you are in.

I assume you're referring to Talkwrench. My profile should show my location as Sacramento, CA.

Comparing the pics of my regulator (top 3 pics) to the one on eBay (bottom pic), it looks like the arm on the right side of the regulator is twisted. When I cycle through the gears, the arm glances the other side with the slot.











I can fix the bent arm.

The piece that's still throwing me off is that I can't get the window to slide down to the bottom of the door. I'm guessing that could be what caused the regulator to bind and bend the arm.

Thoughts on this?

Thanks, Bryan

[deuce lover]

I was talking about Talkwrenches location yes.Did all work before you took it apart? I'm thinking that the glass channel itself might need to be repositioned on the glass.Its been several years since I did my coupe so hard to remember.There shouldn't be any binding at all.In looking at your regulator again that one arm is bent back and in.Straighten that and most likely it will solve the problem.

[FlatheadTed]

In the rear of the upper door you should have a 2" channel that the glass slides back into ,when it slides down it starts to come forward because the lower channel is 2" farther forward .You can remove the glass by tipping it front down when removed compare it with the good side ,you may need new felt channels ,repair it all and try the glass up and down by hand ,

[Tim Brown]

Hey Bryan, I may have some of those left over from my sedan. I'll look today... T

[Rusk]

Originally Posted by deuce lover

I was talking about Talkwrenches location yes.Did all work before you took it apart? I'm thinking that the glass channel itself might need to be repositioned on the glass.Its been several years since I did my coupe so hard to remember.There shouldn't be any binding at all.In looking at your regulator again that one arm is bent back and in.Straighten that and most likely it will solve the problem.

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

In the rear of the upper door you should have a 2" channel that the glass slides back into ,when it slides down it starts to come forward because the lower channel is 2" farther forward .You can remove the glass by tipping it front down when removed compare it with the good side ,you may need new felt channels ,repair it all and try the glass up and down by hand ,

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the info and suggestions. I'll give it a shot and let you know how it goes.

[Rusk]

Originally Posted by Tim Brown

Hey Bryan, I may have some of those left over from my sedan. I'll look today... T

Hey Tim! That would be cool...thanks.

[FlatheadTed]

often when new glass is cut they don't radius and smooth the rear lower corner, this tears up the felt .

[8CM]

I hope you have both those bolt on studs tat run in that slot to make the glass track properly also critical where you put the channel on the glass

[Rusk]

I messed with the window some more today. I still can't seem to get the glass to the bottom of the door, even with the regulator out.

It seems to slide back as far as the other side (which is working), then as FlatheadTed says, it needs to move forward a little to get into the second channel (which it does). It's the front channel where it hangs up. Unlike the driver side where the front channel goes all the way up into the door top, the passenger side stops just below the door top....there's a gap of about 6", then the channel starts again. The problem is, it's capped off at the top so the window cannot slide into it unless it's pulled to the rear of the door another 1/2" (not physically possible). This is also preventing me from being able to tip the window forward enough to remove it.

I'm really surprised that the driver and passenger channels are different. Is this normal? I would assume the door may be from another car if the original paint didn't match so well. Everything internal looks factory (spot welds, paint, etc.). The felt isn't perfect, but it's not balled up or anything that I can feel.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks, Bryan

[oldbugger]

Bryan, I did the door glass some time back in my 35 late model and I dont remember that square end on mine, is that whats blocking the downward movement? If its not on the otherside that may be the wrong glass channel. Good luck

[FlatheadTed]

Both channels should be identical or at least a mirror image of the other good side so you must modify it ,I think the lower front is a 2" strip also so that its at least nosed into it as it comes forward .,??

[Rusk]

I was finally able to get the glass out....and in one piece, surprisingly. That allowed me to get a decent pic of what was stopping the glass...




As you can see, the metal channel that holds the felt has been pushed down several inches and one side is folded over on itself. It looks like the channel or the glass got hung up somewhere and the PO cranked hard enough to do this and bend the regulator.

Here are a couple shots of the parts outside the car...





And proof I didn't break the glass...haha...



I was able to bend the channel back into shape, but it's pretty weak, so I'll probably be seeking out a new one.

Thanks to everyone who offered up suggestions here and via PM.

Bryan

[Talkwrench]

Just get a new set and you'll be right.. just watch the small tab that hooks on the cut out in the door frame, cheap chinese now they break easy, and it needs to hold the new felt chanel in place.

[Gary Tosel]

The front track felt is available, so I believe you should start with a new felt section and you will solve your problem, but I also think your channel is not right for a Coupe.

[Douglas audria]

Originally Posted by Randy in ca

Can't help a whole lot, but I do know that the style of window channel pictured was originally used on the EARLY 1935 models - at least on the 3W coupes this was the case. As far as what differences, if any, there were in the vertical tracks or the regulators I don't recall.

Hi I am also having trouble installing windows in a 35 Ford pickup .i need to know the procedure asap my phone is 908 797 1160 doug or my email is [email protected]