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#21 |
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Join Date: Aug 2020
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The Tbird's frame's X-member limits the size of the mufflers. The stock inlet is 2"/outlet 1 3/4." A case length of 14", OAL 19", width 7.850", and 4.125" thickness will fit the original location. Although 55s don't have resonators, you could add them.
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#22 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
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![]() One of our local T-Bird club owners with a '56 moved out of town a couple weeks ago and left me some extra parts, including a '56 4bbl intake manifold, or I wouldn't have known for sure either. . Last edited by dmsfrr; 10-19-2020 at 07:04 PM. |
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#23 |
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I ordered a new fuel pump because there no vacuum there.I an starting there.
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#24 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
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I'm guessing you can test the vacuum booster by placing a finger on the 'manifold' fitting to block it and gently blowing into a rubber tube connected to the 'wiper' fitting (photo 1) to see if the diaphragm can hold pressure or is leaking. This can most likely be done *on the car* to save some time, labor and aggravation. IF.. you're only trying to get a vacuum signal to test and operate the heater controls, the booster part of the fuel pump is not actually needed at all. Just connect a vacuum line from the manifold vacuum fitting on the carburetor (photo 2, assuming you have a good vacuum level there) and run it thru the firewall to the existing(?) vacuum connections under the dash. (photo 3) . Last edited by dmsfrr; 10-21-2020 at 01:32 PM. |
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#25 |
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I got npvacuum at the fuel pump. I ordered a Carter fuel pump.
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#26 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Granite City, Illinois
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Regardless of whether there is a plumbing, electrical, or in this case a vacuum system, always begin the tests at the END-OF-THE-LINE and work back toward the source. The last test should be the vacuum booster test. IT IS NOT A PUMP, ONLY A BOOSTER. To test, run engine at idle and check the vacuum at the square brass fitting (in this case at back of teapot carburator, thank you dmssfr). If you have around 19-20" of vacuum at idle on your test guage, you have GOOD intake vacuum. If the guage shows lower than 19", you have carb or gasket problems that must be corrected before even touching the fuel pump. So if intake vacuum is good, go to the fuel pump and pull off the hose that runs back to the firewall and install your vacuum guage on it. Pull the hose off line that comes from the square brass fitting on back of the carb AND PLUG THAT HOSE WITH A PENCIL. Have somebody sit in the car and give it enough gas to get it going about 500rpm (thats a little more than idle speed). I suggest hooking up a dwell tachometer unless dashboard has a tach that still works (I think all early T-birds had them). The vacuum reading at the guage should be at least 10" of mercury. If it does, the vacuum booster is GOOD. If it does not, replace fuel pump (or get a new vacuum diaphragm and rebuild pump yourself). |
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#27 | |
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Location: Abq, NM
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What Dave said too... ^ ^ ^
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IF you're getting vacuum in the line from the carburetor, was it connected to the outboard fitting on the booster when you tested the 'wiper' fitting on the booster? If it was and you get no vacuum on the 'wiper' fitting, yes it's leaking / broken. If the vacuum line from the carb wasn't connected, I wouldn't expect much if anything from the booster. (I've not tried it) Last edited by dmsfrr; 10-21-2020 at 01:29 PM. |
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#28 |
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Location: IN A 'GALAXIE' FAR FAR AWAY
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The two-stage fuel pump being discussed top section is a vacuum pump that senses manifold vacuum as lessening and then will cut in and supply vacuum for any vacuum accessory. It will not cut-in until a low manifold vacuum signal is sensed.
Way too much confusion here. A vacuum gauge and MITY-VAC (along with correct factory manual) is all that it needed to diagnose no/low heat.
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#29 |
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Location: Ohio
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If no heat, the heater hoses may be on backwards. If no air, my 57 Fairlane has a little door at the bottom of the heater box (above the hump) that just flips open and closed with your finger.
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#30 |
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Join Date: Aug 2020
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The Tbird has the same heater-box door. Fully opening the door will reduce hot air for the defroster.
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#31 |
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Location: Granite City, Illinois
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The heater box door was a "quick-heat" feature, but it does not matter, really. If the heater core is getting hot water from the engine, you will still get heat out of the heat register with the quick-heat door closed, but you can feel heat more abundantly with the door OPEN with your hand feeling the air coming out of the plenum (blower motor must be on if engine is idling in park).
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#32 |
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Tell ya what. There's a ton of ways to check the vacuum booster on the fuel pump. You could start the engine, throw a bucket of water on the windshield, turn the windshield wipers on and rev the engine with brake pedal depressed. If the wipers STOP when you rev the engine, the vacuum booster is shot.
Also, if I didn't mention it already, another easy way to check is to disconnect both lines connected to top of vacuum booster. Plug one side and use a MityVac (no need to have engine running for this test). Pump the MityVac trigger a couple times to reach a couple inches of mercury on the guage and hold it like that for a few minutes. If the guage does not drop to zero, the booster is likely good. Just don't exceed the maximum vacuum output of the booster or it might result in damage. |
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#33 |
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I have major doubts that the fuel pump vacuum booster is at fault, but checking is a good idea. Reason why I don't think it is the problem is because you still have normal engine vacuum (albeit flowing thru the booster) and feeding your accessories. You should still have plenty of vacuum to operate wipers and heater controls (unless or hose or component is faulty) as I pointed out previously.
Remember, not all engines were equipped with the dual action fuel pump to begin with. |
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#34 |
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Location: Abq, NM
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Another possibility for no heat from the heater... a clogged heater core?
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#35 |
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IF the vacuum pump is not putting out ...
![]() You have to check the condition of the hoses (and wiper vacuum motor) as to be able to hold a vacuum signal. That pump senses when manifold vacuum drops and only cuts in at that point (manifold vacuum is routed through the vacuum pump). As for heat, you must ascertain a proper signal to the control valve. You then check function/coolant passage through that valve. You then confirm the temp control valve at the heater core is adjusted and functioning properly. Check heat at the pressure hose and the return hose. If hot on the supply and cool on the return, you have a blockage (valve - core -trapped air). All is fully explained in the SHOP MANUAL. The two-stage pump was an option on lower trim models.
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***** - WHY IS IT ... ![]() ... that everything you buy in the grocery store is either wrapped in or contained in plastic but the government doesn't want you to carry it out in a plastic bag? WONDERING IN W(BY GOD)V ...
![]() DIAGNOSED CDO - (OCD In Correct Alphabetical Order) Last edited by KULTULZ; 10-31-2020 at 01:39 AM. Reason: ADD INFO |
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#36 |
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Oh, yes that is absolutely true, however, I am talking about testing in which case the engine is idling and there is no load on the engine. Ultimately, that means for a few split seconds, during high throttle operation, loading the engine down, there is a loss of manifold vacuum and in those split seconds, the heat control valve will starve for vacuum, but will resume normal operation after the engine load decreases. But he's not going to try to test it on the highway, when it's easier to test in the driveway with engine idling.
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#37 |
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True again. I saw many '55 Customlines at junkyards in the early '70's that had dual-action fuel pumps (presumably the factory installed units by the looks of them). Both the Y-blocks and I block 6-cyl engines offered optional dual-action pumps. Light-duty fleet cars of the Mainline variety, most likely had single-action pumps from the factory, but not all Mainlines had single-action pumps.
In '55, you could buy a two-toned Sunliner convertible with a 223 6-cyl and you could only guess what all options it had. Maybe all the bells and whistles, maybe few or none. |
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#38 | |||||
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Proper operation also depends on state of tune and having a normal/steady manifold vacuum @idle. READ HERE - https://www.ctci.org/windshield-wiper-vacuum-source/ https://www.ctci.org/improving-winds...iper-function/
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***** - WHY IS IT ... ![]() ... that everything you buy in the grocery store is either wrapped in or contained in plastic but the government doesn't want you to carry it out in a plastic bag? WONDERING IN W(BY GOD)V ...
![]() DIAGNOSED CDO - (OCD In Correct Alphabetical Order) |
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