Help with transmission selection

[A bones]

Think I'll keep this thread. Whole lotta good ideas here. Any Minute we might hear from renobill.

[renobill]

Great stuff. It may take me 10 rereads to try and digest all these good comments. I am currently thinking a world-class T5 out of a mustang (1985-1996).There are a few mustangs in my local wrecking yard to check out. Thanks to all who commented.

[JSeery]

If you can locate the tag on the transmission it will ID the transmission for you. I see the chart I uploaded is not readable! But it is online.

I'm a big Ford T5 fan, but there are some things to consider:

1. Does not use the more common S-10 bellhousing mounting pattern and most adapters are the S-10 pattern. Check with Cornhuskers on an adapter.

2. The shifter location is further aft than the S-10 transmissions. You can switch out the tail housings which includes the shifter. There are other solutions as well.

3. The speedometer connection is a bit of an issue and may require an electronic sending unit. If the tail shaft is swapped and it is an early S-10 it will take a mechanical cable. There are other solutions.

4. Same situation on the front bearing retainer and input shaft dia and teeth count as with the mounting bolts, Ford is different than the more common S-10 conversion parts. And again, give Cornhuskers a call.

Here are some links with the ID chart data:

http://www.merkurencyclopedia.com/Tr...nsmission.html

http://cornhuskerrodandcustom.net/

[cas3]

come on jerry, you are being modest, show him your shifter you made. nice work

[frnkeore]

Here is some more T5 info:

http://myflatheadford.com/flathead-v...-5-conversion/

Frank

[Vonn]

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Just do a t-5 and call it done man. You can put any transmission in any car if you want to do the work and spend the money. There is plenty of information about how to do a t-5 swap available along with complete adapter kits that are proven to work.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by JSeery

There are some rules of thumb for gear 1st gear to rear axle ratios (there are other factors, these are just starting guidelines).

Drag Racing: 10 to 12
Street Performance: 8 to 9.5

JSeery…..You are the ONLY other person on this forum (beside myself) that I've seen use this quick and dirty formula to get you in the ballpark when putting a driveline together. It's not a perfect solution, but it will at least give you a starting point to prevent the assembly of a combination that just doesn't "work". As an extreme example, for many years now we've owned a '65 Corvette coupe, factory equipped with the 365 HP 327, 2.20 1st gear Muncie, along with a 3.55 Posi rear. That 2.20 X 3.55 equals a very low (numerical) 7.81. Believe me, that thing has no problem leaving a light and is such a pleasure going thru the close ratio gears. DD

[tubman]

My '67 327/350 has a 2.56 low four speed and 3.55's. That gives 9.088. Close ration boxes really like to have 4.56's. (10.32). There's a guy named Donny Brass with a '66 327/350 that has run a verified 12.34 quarter This is with a stock engine and 4.56's.

I have never had the nerve to really "pour the coal" to my car. I have too much time and money in it and couldn't stand to break anything.

[cmbrucew]

I have never had the nerve to really "pour the coal" to my car. I have too much time and money in it and couldn't stand to break anything.



I call it Fear and common sense.


Bruce

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by tubman

Close ration boxes really like to have 4.56's. (10.32).

I have never had the nerve to really "pour the coal" to my car. I have too much time and money in it and couldn't stand to break anything.

Hey....I think that any of us ol' geezers with a Mid-Year car probably have a little too much money and time in these things, but at least you're honest about your concerns. I've had this car for over 33 years now and pounded on it way back when... just prior to growing-up. I never broke it, though!


Speaking of 4.56s, there's just no way that makes sense on anything other than a race car. I have an old FAA friend that bought a '65 coupe with a 396 brand new. He ordered it with a 4.11. I've ridden in that car more than once and driving it at just 70 or so drives you up a wall. Funny thing is that it was his only car for a while and he agonizes telling the story of driving it back and forth between Houston and Shreveport on weekends for a couple of years with that 4.11. Amazingly, he still owned that thing until four or five years ago. DD

[tubman]

DD - Well, you've got me beat; I've only had my '67 for 32 years. The first 25 years I had it (before I restored it), I "beat on it" plenty with no problems. Now? Just can't bring myself to do it. However, the first new car I ever bought (another '67 L79 coupe) had 3.70's. The first thing I did was change the tires to 915-15's in back. With those tires, that car was perfect (probably equivalent to the 215R75-15's I have on it now with the 3.55's, now that I think of it).

But I digress; any more of this O/T banter should probably be done in PM's.

[glennpm]

Hi V8COOPMAN,

I thought the Muncie M20 close ratio only came if the rearend ratio was 4.11 and up in the 65. I know they sold the M20 as close and wide only in subsequent years changing to the M21 designation for the close ratio. Did you buy it with the close ratio or did it come with it if you had either the 365 or 375 HP options?

Just curious that's all since I have an M20 wide ratio from a 64 in my 1940.

I love the 65 coupes!

Thanks,
Glenn

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

for many years now we've owned a '65 Corvette coupe, factory equipped with the 365 HP 327, 2.20 1st gear Muncie, along with a 3.55 Posi rear. That 2.20 X 3.55 equals a very low (numerical) 7.81. DD

[frnkeore]

Regarding the WC T-5's for Mustangs. They have a .63 or .68 OD fifth gear.

My F3 has a 4.86 rear gear in it and with that trans, I would have a 3.06/3.3 final drive ratio. Way higher geared than a standard Ford 3.78 rear.

I put a AOD in my truck, to get a 3.26 final drive.

Frank

[flatjack9]

I had a 66 Cyclone GT with a 3.89 rear axle and it was pretty busy on the highway as well as tough on the gas mileage(family car at the time).

[frnkeore]

I put 4.11's in my '58 Edsel, Corsair with a 410 MEL engine. It ran strong but, as you say "busy" and took plenty of gas that was .30 a gal, at that time but, in 1963 dollars. I quit driving it when I got my '60 Ford.

[rotorwrench]

My 69 el Camino came with stump puller rear gears in a 12-bolt but it's an automatic T400 set up. It's rpm is way up there at 70 so it'll get an OD trans one of these days. Since it's a light pickup and I generally only use it around town, I won't mess with it for now. Some day maybe?

They don't go real fast but they get up to speed real quick as long as the tires will hold it!

[cmbrucew]

Kirby
you can get a 12 bolt 2.41:1 third member from a 79 camero, etc. They work good with 350/350 combo. About 70 MPH at 2100 RPM.



Bruce

[renobill]

So, after pulling out a '95 Mustang T5 the other day at my local junk yard and reading everything I can find on adapting it to my 59A block, I went to '84 Chevy S10 T5 that I found on Craigslist. Probably the chickens way out. Thanks for all your comments.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by renobill

So, after pulling out a '95 Mustang T5 the other day at my local junk yard and reading everything I can find on adapting it to my 59A block, I went to '84 Chevy S10 T5 that I found on Craigslist. Probably the chickens way out. Thanks for all your comments.

LOL, but it is easier to get an adapter and clutch parts for! Lot of data out there on the S10 swaps.