pedal shaft overhaul

[tglenox1]

Can it be done from inside the car by taking out floorboards?

[Brendan]

i think they need to come out, i think it would be easier

[1955cj5]

With the floor boards out you should be able to get the pedals out if all you want to do is replace the bushings.

Replacing the shaft is another matter. I replaced pedal shaft with the clutch housing out and even then it was difficult to get the rivet that secures the shaft out.....

One end of the rivet can only be accessed from inside the clutch housing..

[mleder]

This is a post I did a few years ago. As a disclaimer: It worked for me . Will it work for everyone I cannot say for sure. If you fail to get the pin out while it's still in the car you know the shaft is still held in place so you really are no worse off except for your time spent to this point. Here was my post I pulled from the search function on this forum.
My experience with changing the pedal shaft in the car went well provided the method and certain tools are used. I first removed floor board, opened the inspection plate cover over the throw out bearing. From the passenger side you can use your right hand and feel the bottom of the pin that holds the shaft in place in the transmission case casting. It has an upset on it's end and that's why you can't pull it out through the top. Here is what worked for me. I ground the head off the pin on the top with a small grinder making sure that the over size head was down to the straight pin OD. I then used a cutting torch to heat the existing pin getting it hot to slightly glow in the surrounding cast iron case. Do this two or three times but let it cool to room temp between each heating.On the last heating cycle take some used dirty motor oil and dab it on the pin while still hot. The oil will give the pin a darker hue when it cools down. Now get some Kroil or PB blaster (Not WD-40 ) and squirt it on over the course of a few hours, tap around it a little bit to give it a little vibration. I then bought a straight punch to fit a common air hammer and machined it down to an OD of about .247. (The pin is .250) so you need to be thinner than it. I only turned it down for about 3/4 of an inch running length. Next using an air source of at least 9o psi use ONE HAND ON THE TOP of the air hammer inline with the punch and press it firmly on the center of the pin . Press the trigger for just a short moment and the pin should move if your centered up on it. This punch will only drive it 3/4 of an inch. Add more Kroil or PB blaster on top of the pin that has moved. Next get a 3-5 lb. hammer and a good straight .250 punch and continue to drive it out. If your talented, drive with your left hand and with your right hand hold the pin as it moves down into the case or else clip a small vise grip on the pin and then just retrieve the vise grip. You should now remove the old shaft and slip in the new one. You can use some locktite on new retainer pin as upsetting the bottom would be difficult. I did not want to have the machined punch longer than about 3/4" for fear it might bend or break from the air hammer. I intend to give the punch I made to our Model A Club for it's tool collection that members can use.

[tglenox1]

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Thanks all! Will go to it.
Tom