$28.00 Hose Clamps: Are They Worth It?

[Smurkey]

I have a set of the $6.00 clamps on now and the tabs have "bottomed out" (won't tighten anymore) on themselves and I've developed a leak. I see Bratton's sells a set for 28 bucks supposedly "original gauge". Since I don't know if I've ever seen an original set I cannot tell how much stronger they might be.

What say you?

Thanks-- Steve

[Mike]

Yes they are very nice clamp and will not tarnish !

mike

[wrndln]

Steve,
If you are looking authenticity, go for the $28 set of clamps. I had some original clamps cad plated as I am more of a purest. If you are satisfied with your car as a driver, buy the $6 set. I am sure either set would work fine. Bratton's normally sells good stuff.
Rusty Nelson

[Smurkey]

Well, the $6 set does not work fine. That's why I'm wondering about the clamping ability and less about authenticity.

Am I paying the extra money for looks or performance? Looks is a nice side benefit but will 22 extra bucks buy me a four times stronger clamp?

I hate to put on a worm-type clamp.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Actually, why not give Bert's a call 800-321-1931 and buy the real original clamps.

The $6 clamps should work, but they do look cheap.

[Fred]

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Originally Posted by Smurkey

Well, the $6 set does not work fine. That's why I'm wondering about the clamping ability and less about authenticity.

Am I paying the extra money for looks or performance? Looks is a nice side benefit but will 22 extra bucks buy me a four times stronger clamp?

I hate to put on a worm-type clamp.

You are paying for both !! Worms are only good for fishing !!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Lets discuss some things that may/may not be contributing to the leak here.

I would remove the hose to inspect the sealing area. If this area is pitted in any manner, the type of clamp you are using will not matter. Any type of good body filler, --or even JB Weld can be used to smooth out the area on the neck.

Also, how old are the hoses? Many 'new' hoses are hard and not pliable. Soaking them in extremely hot water for 30 minutes prior to installation is a huge help here as it makes the hose soft. Also, just tighten the clamp until you can no longer rotate it on the hose. This is tight enough. Too often, the clamp is over-tightened in an effort to overcome something else that is defective. This stretches it beyond its ability to clamp the hose. Remember, there is no pressure from the cooling system so the hose should seal against the necks with light clamping pressure.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Put a light coat of Vaseline on the inside of the clamps. This will help the clamp to slip on the rubber hose, so it clamps better without binding or bunching up the rubber. I also put some Vaseline on the outside of the pipes the hose slips onto.

[larrys40]

I usually use the creme gojo hand cleaner on the inside of the hose... lightly! It helps with slipping it on, is water soluable, wipes easy etc. Gojo creme ( not the pumice variety) is great for cleaning up engine compartments, firewalls/chassis, etc.

I don't care for some of the flimsey clamps either... but the surface of radiator and outlet/inlets has to be good as well.
Larry Shepard

[Tom Endy]

Whenever I install radiator hoses I spray both the inside and the outside of the hoses with Silicone Spray Lubricant by Gunk. I use the cheaper clamps from Bratton's.

The purpose of spraying the inside of the hose is to allow it to slip into place easily. The purpose of spraying the outside is to allow the little tab on the clamp to glide over the rubber without biting into it. I also make sure the little tab is pointing slightly up at the tip.

Early on I learner that if the tab bites into the rubber it will cause a tunnel to occur between the rubber and the mount. The more you tighten it the larger the tunnel and of course a water leak.

Tom Endy

[JEC]

Brent beat me to it. I was going to say that with a no pressure system the hose clamp is almost cosmetic.
I had the same problem that you are having with my1936 John Deere BO tractor and filled the rust pits with JB weld.

[Logan]

My solution is going to the auto parts store, or home improvement store and getting modern style hose clamps. You can get it as tight as you want, no square nut to try to keep from turning if the tab is broken, or isn't long enough to do anything. You can use a socket to take on and off. No it's not "correct" but I'd rather do that on my own personal cars. If your judging or just wanting a correct car obviously this isn't the option for you.

[racer32]

The cheaper clamps suck. I replaced my hoses and clamps not long ago...the flimsy clamps wouldn't even tighten without the tabs bending. Worm clamps are cheap, and they WORK.

[19ED30]

Go to Collifower Inc or Napa & on the shelf Turbo clamps from 3/4 to to over 6 inches .
Will not leak because of the clap! Worth the $

[nickair]

The $6 look alike clamps are junk. I tossed mine in the trash. Get good ones.

[BlueSunoco]

Originally Posted by nickair

The $6 look alike clamps are junk. I tossed mine in the trash. Get good ones.

Same here. Used them on the '28 and one day I walked out into the garage to see about 1 gallon of antifreeze leaked out on the garage floor. Had been OK when I installed them. Didn't want to stay tight.

They are now in the bottom of some landfill.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Logan

My solution is going to the auto parts store, or home improvement store and getting modern style hose clamps. You can get it as tight as you want, no square nut to try to keep from turning if the tab is broken, or isn't long enough to do anything. You can use a socket to take on and off. No it's not "correct" but I'd rather do that on my own personal cars. If your judging or just wanting a correct car obviously this isn't the option for you.

These are what I use. No leaking at all!