The Ford Barn

Tom Wesenberg · 04-29-2013, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkcrosson

Does anyone know of a drawing of the correct radiator inlet shape. I have fought this issue with what I thought was an original radiator. Maybe it's a very old replacement.

Will a picture of my 1928 work?

jkcrosson · 04-29-2013, 10:54 AM

Yes it will work enough for me to know mine is nothing like it. I have the radiator out so I'll take a picture when I go home for lunch.

dave in australia · 04-29-2013, 07:41 PM

Wouldn't a sagged chassis also cause the fan to be closer to the pipe. If the rear of the engine drops, the upper forward will move back slightly from the rotation of the engine along its length. Just something else to think about.

Smurkey · 04-30-2013, 01:53 PM

Well I attached some pics.

The first three are the original steel fan. The baby's cut down to 13 1/4"...didn't even realize it. The one of the hub shows the crack forming. The last one shows the clearance between the inlet neck of the radiator and the fan AFTER shimming. That's about the best I'm going to get.

Thanks for all the interest in the subject and the tips...I'll let you know after I refill the radiator. Waiting on a lower steel pipe for the engine inlet...Mine looked like Swiss cheese; the paint was literally holding the coolant in.

Steve

Farrell In Vancouver · 04-30-2013, 02:14 PM

Hey Smurkey! Any chance your engine is too high? Will the hand crank fit in the crank nut?

JBohannon · 04-30-2013, 08:02 PM

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If anyone has any doubt that the original fans can and will fail I can tell you that I am living proof that they can. The truth is I really think I am alive today because of reading the post on this forum. A little over a year ago I was standing on the carb side of the engine revving it up a little and one of my blades let go. It came so close to my head I felt the air and heard the noise but it went so fast I did not see it. I had the carb side of the engine cowl open and to my knowledge it never touched a thing as it came out. I live in the country and I can tell you after searching for it for over a year I have still not found it. I have no idea how far it flew. I must tell you that mine did have the very small cracks near the base but I just did not pay much attention. But in this forum I had read do not put yourself in the line of fire of the blades and really think that saved my life. I kept my body and head near the back of the engine but I think it missed me by maybe inches.

larrys40 · 04-30-2013, 09:44 PM

Steve,
Good advice above from Tom on the Water necks..... sounds like the radiator neck may be on of the issues. Take a line of sight from the side with the hose off, making sure you have the correct height ( not sure if it's 28/9 or 30/31 you are working with ( despite 29 photo in avatar) but I would lean toward fixing the radiator and core problem....
I would not put a cracked fan back on no matter how long you might feel it's been there. Should be heliarc welded properly if repaired for re-install.

Good luck!
Larry Shepard

Smurkey · 05-06-2013, 04:46 PM

Hey, just a follow up. The gap was/is sufficient. Just went for a 20 mile cruise (first on of the season) and all worked well. Now with some peace of mind about the fan.

Happy with the thermostat I installed too!

Steve

PS the stainless lower coolant pipe from Brattons is a beaut. Thick gauge, looks right, almost a shame to paint it black. Well worth the extra 3-4 bucks!!

machine girl · 05-06-2013, 04:52 PM

use the 6 blade plastic, want to show your car put on an org, 2 blade alum is still a fake

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 05-06-2013, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by machine girl

use the 6 blade plastic, want to show your car put on an org, 2 blade alum is still a fake

Tests have confirmed that a 6 blade fan is actually less beneficial than an original style at speeds greater than 20 mph. The reason is the 6 blade fan creates a curtain wall of air which does not allow additional air to flow across the fins. A 2 blade fan will keep all but a fully loaded AA truck cool at speeds under 20 mph. Over that, you don't even need a fan to cool the engine.

ericr · 05-06-2013, 07:23 PM

out of curiosity, does anyone know if the '32 etc. Ford fans were of the same design?

04-29-2013, 10:54 AM	#22
jkcrosson Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Pell City AL Posts: 720	Re: Aluminum One-Piece Fan. Issue...Maybe... Yes it will work enough for me to know mine is nothing like it. I have the radiator out so I'll take a picture when I go home for lunch. __________________ Jamie Crosson 1929 Tudor Looking for an Original 888 Key

04-29-2013, 07:41 PM	#23
dave in australia Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Victoria, Australia Posts: 1,177	Re: Aluminum One-Piece Fan. Issue...Maybe... Wouldn't a sagged chassis also cause the fan to be closer to the pipe. If the rear of the engine drops, the upper forward will move back slightly from the rotation of the engine along its length. Just something else to think about.

04-30-2013, 02:14 PM	#25
Farrell In Vancouver Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pitt Meadows BC Posts: 1,003	Re: Aluminum One-Piece Fan. Issue...Maybe... Hey Smurkey! Any chance your engine is too high? Will the hand crank fit in the crank nut?

04-30-2013, 08:02 PM	#26
JBohannon Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 180	Re: Aluminum One-Piece Fan. Issue...Maybe... Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) If anyone has any doubt that the original fans can and will fail I can tell you that I am living proof that they can. The truth is I really think I am alive today because of reading the post on this forum. A little over a year ago I was standing on the carb side of the engine revving it up a little and one of my blades let go. It came so close to my head I felt the air and heard the noise but it went so fast I did not see it. I had the carb side of the engine cowl open and to my knowledge it never touched a thing as it came out. I live in the country and I can tell you after searching for it for over a year I have still not found it. I have no idea how far it flew. I must tell you that mine did have the very small cracks near the base but I just did not pay much attention. But in this forum I had read do not put yourself in the line of fire of the blades and really think that saved my life. I kept my body and head near the back of the engine but I think it missed me by maybe inches.

04-30-2013, 09:44 PM	#27
larrys40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St Charles , Missouri Posts: 1,998	Re: Aluminum One-Piece Fan. Issue...Maybe... Steve, Good advice above from Tom on the Water necks..... sounds like the radiator neck may be on of the issues. Take a line of sight from the side with the hose off, making sure you have the correct height ( not sure if it's 28/9 or 30/31 you are working with ( despite 29 photo in avatar) but I would lean toward fixing the radiator and core problem.... I would not put a cracked fan back on no matter how long you might feel it's been there. Should be heliarc welded properly if repaired for re-install. Good luck! Larry Shepard

05-06-2013, 04:46 PM	#28
Smurkey Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Esko, MN Posts: 257	Re: Aluminum One-Piece Fan. Issue...Maybe... Hey, just a follow up. The gap was/is sufficient. Just went for a 20 mile cruise (first on of the season) and all worked well. Now with some peace of mind about the fan. Happy with the thermostat I installed too! Steve PS the stainless lower coolant pipe from Brattons is a beaut. Thick gauge, looks right, almost a shame to paint it black. Well worth the extra 3-4 bucks!!

05-06-2013, 04:52 PM	#29
machine girl Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Posts: 422	Re: Aluminum One-Piece Fan. Issue...Maybe... use the 6 blade plastic, want to show your car put on an org, 2 blade alum is still a fake

05-06-2013, 07:23 PM	#31
ericr Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 1,542	Re: Aluminum One-Piece Fan. Issue...Maybe... out of curiosity, does anyone know if the '32 etc. Ford fans were of the same design?