1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[DavidG]

Your engine will idle at a lower speed once it is fully "broken in".

[cas3]

A low smooth idle speed is impressive on a show car , but in reality on a driver I like it a tad bit higher myself. However, with the 4 speed double clutcher, a low idle will help slow down the motor between shifts and make smoother shifts. I agree that it will change with the motor broke in. Also, those cast iron carbs can be very thoroughly cleaned by soaking in Evaporust. The proper way is to drive out all the factory plugs to clean the inside passages, but I have found that evaporust will break down the junk to the point that it can be cleaned with air pressure. Works in most cases, and certainly easier .

[sugarmaker]

Thanks guys for the support! With the weather cold I wont get a test drive for a while.


Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Ford Folks,
I removed the idle screw and cleaned the port with carb cleaner. Worked the screw gently back and forth and cleaned the threads. Took the spring off and set screw at the bottom closed point, and measured the distance from the carb body to the underside of the screw head. Then turned the screw out 1.5 turns and noted the dimension. Re-installed the spring and repeated. The screw is now not wobbly so after some test drive we should be able to put this baby to bed:


Started on two other small winter projects. The first is the kick panels in the cab. Cut and fit cardboard first. Some tweeking of sheet metal bracket that holds the board in place above the toe board on each side:


Then transfered the pattern to the material, from the upholstery shop, that he will cover in black for me. These look way better than the raqgged ones that were very tattered at the bottom. This is the side where the map pocket will be attached:


Map pocket contained the 5 screws for the #2 floorboard and a bunch of zerks. Another indicator that this may have been a original set of floor boards, with some mods? The map pocket is riveted to the kick panel and is at a 45 degree angle. The two bolts for the spare tire carirer go right through/near the corner rivets of the map pocket. A little strange?


Grandson and great grandaughter checking out the 32:


I also started cleaning the speedo. It was gummed up pretty good. Lots of Kroll and carb cleaner and gently rotation by hand. Then hooked up a drill and spun it at 60MPH for about a 3 mile addition to the odometer. Seems to work fine. I am going to order a new cable from Snyders and see if I can get this working. Would like to turn it back to zero, but havent figured that out yet. Looks like both ends were the .100 inch square ends. I did check the same square end in the torque tube fitting. The trip mileage indicator seems to work fine, kind of neat featur for 90 years ago!


Hope things are good in Ford land!

Regards,
Chris

[cas3]

That speedo looks in good shape. Be very careful touching, or cleaning the odometer wheels, the old paint will flake off very easy. Nice darn truck !!!

[DavidG]

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Chris,

You are very fortunate that your truck has a Delco speedometer as the numbers on the odometer and trip odometer of a Delco have a much higher survival rate than those on the other two brands of speedometers used by Ford for the '32s (Stewart Warner and Waltham). As for turning the odometer back to zero, it is not a DIY project.

Your map pocket is where it is supposed to be and attached with rivets as original. Since there is no glove box or anywhere else to stow anything in the cab, you may wish to install another map pocket on the other side as well. I've an extra for you if you want it.

[sugarmaker]

Cas3
Thanks. Only worked on one other old speedo, from my 55 crown Vic. That was almost 50 years ago. The ragged old truck, is a time capsule for sure and has many more stories to tell.
David,
Thank you for the advice on the Delco speedometer. The numbers that were showing are a little faded, but with my crude cleaning methods, all the numbers look presentable. I had plans to buy a 80 mph from Robert R. But may be able to get this working?
On the map pocket, I may pass, as there could be someone that has none? Thank you!!
Regards,
Chris

[sugarmaker]

Folks,
Grandson Mike ask to use the shop to change brakes for his uncle, Since his daily job is a service technician at Firestone Service Center in Erie, this was not a big deal for him.


I rested and watched:


Mike drove the 32 to local resturant for lunch. He liked how the new engine preformed!




John, Cathy, their son, daughter-in-law and grandkids visited today and reviewed his work on the 42 Ford Deluxe in the shop also.
I did hunt whitetails for a couple hours, and saw one deer. All in all, a good day!
Regards,
Chris

Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Pretty fancy front wheels on the A/C tractor!

[sugarmaker]

David,
Just the big Dodge truck wheel resting in the right position for that picture!
Regards,
Chris

[cas3]

My goodness, no snow there ?

[sugarmaker]

cas3,
Still chilly but almost all the snow is gone for a little while. Roads are dry and we get some time breaking in the new MW engine in the ragged ol truck!
Regards,
Chris

[cas3]

Good for you. Here in my part of the country if we have snow on the ground this time of year it will most likely be there until mid april

[sugarmaker]

Ford Folks,
Ok I have a new problem. On the drivers side of the inside of the cab, where the windlacing comes down near the floor. This area has accumulated dirt and moisture when the truck was in service. It has rusted about 6-8 inches of the windlace area till it crumbled to rust dust. The way to fix this would be to remove the gas tank and get in there and weld in a new section.
I hesitate to pull the tank. Just havent done one yet and you never know what your going to find. Just like this " I will just replace the windlace around the door" project. The slippery slope is right under your feet!
Now maybe the final results would be that I learn how to get the gas gauge functioning again?? Yea another project!
Any suggestions are welcome. I will try to get some pictures too.
Regards,
Chris

[Dad250]

Chris -

It's looking better each day ! I can tell you are moving onto the finer points when you started looking at the lacing and the interior panels ;-)

I'm on the hunt for a 17' spoke wheel to replace the single correct size 18 that is in the spare position. Rather than look for a set of 18's - I took the path of least resistance - we will see how that plays out ? Inner tubes and rim liners arrived this week - tires are expected in March timeframe from Coker.

The gas gauge is described in several publications and seems to be somewhat straight forward - the red indicator liquid seems to be the challenge as repo products seem to fade over time. For me and my truck we use a calibrated paint stick to gauge the fuel.

I hope to get some work done over the Christmas break - wish me luck as I do for you !

[sugarmaker]

Rory,
Hope someone has the wheel for you! Thanks for the support! I will need it. Trying to noodle out the plan for fixing the inside door jamb. Will get some pictures.
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,


Compared to removing the gas tank from a period Ford passenger car, that in your truck is very easy to remove. The area of rust that you have encountered is somewhat unusual as the bottom of doors and the rear corners of the outer cab sheet metal are where rust usually makes its first appearance in a '32 cab.


A calibrated paint stick ala Model T days is foolproof as long as you remember to use it when it counts.

[sugarmaker]

David,
I was hoping you would respond about the truck gas tank removal. Thank you for the support on this project from day one! Sure helps me with areas that I have not touched before. Yes both of these areas in the truck were full of dirt. Since these doors were added from another truck, maybe the original doors were rusted and allowed these areas to fill up?? Will get some pictures of the rusted area.

I have a rusted off portion of the windlacing steel cover also. May have to fab something to repair that??

Yes the paint stick is what I use in almost all my tractors! Works well when as you mention, you use it!
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Chris,

It's a pleasure to be able to help get your truck back to where you want it to be. Like Michael said at the Franklin ENM, meeting you and your wife plus our ride in your truck were real highlights for both of us

If the windlacing retainer on the other side of the cab is undamaged, you'll know how much to add to the rusty one to restore it and importantly where the holes for the retaining sheet metal screws are located. If not, please let me know and I will provide you with that information.

The other big plus that you'll get if you remove the tank to access the cab sides is the chance to give it a good clean out inside, which isn't really possible to the same extent with the tank in place in the truck and while doing that, the fuel gauge sending in the tank should be removed and also given a good cleaning. They are made entirely of brass and no matter how bad the gas or residue, they're pretty bulletproof. That's the first step to bringing your hydrostatic gas gauge back to life.

[sugarmaker]

David,
Thank you! That is a plan in the making for sure! Soft goal would be to have cab repair made. Windlace metal cover restored, tank removed, cab cleaned out. Windlace and kick panels installed, gas guage restored and functional, and the spedo working for next spring.
That should keep me out of trouble for a couple days!

Folks,
On the Model B (MW) engine, well it is not stalling when stopping now. Re-timing and adjusting the low speed jet seems to have helped. I have some oil blowing out of the dipstick hole. The hole seems to me too large, approx 5/16 dia. I put a small rubber oring on the dipstick to try to improve the fit. Is this normal for oil to be exiting the engine at this point?
Regards,
Chris