New disk brakes

[FRANK PKNY]

Has anyone installed the new disk break system that's just came on the market. If so I would like your comments as I am thinking of installing them on my 15 touring this winter. Thanks Frank pkny

[natebeach90]

well i havent seen the new system but a buddy of mine had a system custom built with a set of rear calipers of a expedition, i think the rotors were specaly made. i have drove the car and it stops really well, nothing like the old trans brake.

[t42]

I was just looking at the installation instructions from "Texas T Parts" this morning. This instruction page was for the large drum wire wheel application, so I don't know how it would apply to the small drum wood wheels of 1915. It is definately impressive. My main concern would be the stresses put on other suspension items and the wood wheels as well. Locking up the rear wheels sure would be an improvement. Check their web-site, maybe they could have you talk with some recent customers. Good luck.

[Doug Money]

I have no external brakes on my T and I can lock the brakes at will. Kevlar bands are the only change I made.

[t42]

I guess I'll have to get new Kevlar bands.

[FRANK PKNY]

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I have kevlar bands but still feel I would like a little better braking power. I have always resisted changing the T very much but brakes are a most vital thing . Several days ago a car pulled out in front of me and I almost hit it. I don't think locking the wheels is very good but your foot pressure can controll that element. I did look over the Texas infomation and it looks very intresting. Possibly this winter I will make the change. Frank pkny

[Willie in Houston]

I like some type of external brake at the rear wheels. In some years of driving, I have broken one U-Joint on tour and I have broken one axle here on the farm. I feel that some extra braking is needed cause that drive line can break leaving you with no brakes and that is a scary thought. If nothing else, use the linned emergency brake shoes. I am talking pre 26/27.

[Brother Hesekiel]

May I hi-jack this thread lightly?
I know there are small and big rear drums, and I am trying to figure out what I have. The outer diameter of my drums is about 11-1/8 inches, give or take an 8th. Are those the "large" ones or the "small" ones?

[FRANK PKNY]

A good question about these disk brakes would be would they hold the wheel on if you brake an axel. I think so but will email and ask that question.

Brother Hesekiel you have the 26 27 large drums.

[natebeach90]

well frank pkny if u wont to keep it more peroid correct u could always go with a rocky montain set up. had a set on a speedster build i did any i was really happy with the system.

[Doug Money]

Also consider in a panic stop, which direction is the rear of the car going to go if and when you lock both back tires. Can you really modulate the brakes that well when a crash is imminent?

[John Otis]

I always used lined brake shoes on my small drum cars and they work remarkably well if you get in a pinch. The very best way to stop any T is not drive fast to begin with. These old Fords weren't designed for the nice roads we have today, and it's easy to exceed the speed at which these cars were meant to run.

[FRANK PKNY]

John I agree with you 100% I guess I'm just a tinkerer and a worrie wort. But I do feel the disk brake would surve a dual function . Stoping and keeping a broken axel from expelling the wheel off. I do have the lined shoes as well .

[georgeh]

Originally Posted by FRANK PKNY

Has anyone installed the new disk break system that's just came on the market. If so I would like your comments as I am thinking of installing them on my 15 touring this winter. Thanks Frank pkny

I just received a set of the Texas T discs a couple of days ago,haven't started to install yet.The kit looks good and very complete right down to brake fluid.I'll post some comments after the brakes are installed.

[t42]

Any time you can install a modern improvement to an old piece of iron, I am all for it. As long as you can remove it and it won't detract from the autos original design. John hit it right on concerning speed, and we don't want to create a false sense of security. Think safety first and check out the entire running gear while installing new brakes. Just an opinion.

[Brother Hesekiel]

Originally Posted by t42

Any time you can install a modern improvement to an old piece of iron, I am all for it.

That's the definition of a resto mod. Think '65 Mustang with a fuel injected engine, 5-speed tranny, modern wheels with low profile tires, everything that would go toward being posted at the site of www.molestedcars.com.

In Model T terms that would be anything going in the direction of a Shay: old looks with more modern components, such as a Pinto engine, non-rusting fiberglass fenders, 4-wheel juice brakes, etc.

Sorry, but that goes against anything I believe in when it comes to experiencing old cars. I don't just want them to look old, to be pretenders; I want them to be genuine and authentic windows into the past.

As you stated, "just an opinion"; and we'll have to agree that we disagree here. Unless somebody tells me that the period correct Rocky Mountain brakes are unable to stop a Model T, I think it's a move in the wrong direction to install disk brakes. What's next?

[Doug Money]

If you can lock the brakes with standard brakes, are external brakes going to lock the brakes tighter or faster? No matter what kind of brakes you have, there is the fact taht you are stopping a moving mass at higher speed with better brakes and skinny tires. Drive the car the way it was intended or drive a modern car. If I put 6 piston calipers on my Taurus is it going to stop faster? If I can already lock the tires, what are better brakes going to do? Also, remember when you do lock the brakes, you know you will, which way is the rear end going to go?

[t42]

Hey Brother H, all you read was the first sentence. There are many items out there that are good for safety and maintenence on our original autos. Some items can be well hidden (seals, bearings, etc.), and some can't. Some are built to show and some are restored to tour. I assume Frank wants to be safer while touring. That's why I was "all for it" in Frank's case, not something I would do personally. My autos are totally stock, and I would not have it any other way. I would not even install period correct non-Ford items on my "T". Sorry I offended you, will try to use better grammar next time.

[Brother Hesekiel]

I have no problems with taking advantage of better bearing materials, pistons made from aluminum and better brake linings, just to name a few, and I also have no problems with period accessories, such as Rocky Mountain brakes. But once modifications are visible and go in the direction of "modernization" which starts with 2-stage (base/clear) paint, I am against it. That's my personal opinion as a 53-year-old who has been involved with old cars--professionally for the past 25-or-so-- the majority of his life. I'm sure this can be discussed ad nauseam, just like engine oil, but since it was brought up, I felt it's only fair to add my personal opinion. I favor originality very highly and choose preservation whenever possible over restoration.

[FRANK PKNY]

I have not made up my mind as of now. The input that all of you have given, is in my mind . Rocky mountain brakes were my second choice. But thinking that if the disk brakes would hold the wheel on if an axel breaks that was a good reason to go with them. At present I am still thinking!!!!! Grin.

[Doug Money]

Frank if you are so worried about the axle breaking, either replace the axles or put safety hubs on. How bad are your axles?

[CharlieB]

I'm totally with you Brother H. I'm all for improvements that don't show but improve safety & operation. Moders seals, hidden zerk fittings ect. While Rocky Mountain brakes are period correct, I sure wouldn't remove them if thet were on the car. Frank: You say you already have lined rear shoes. How about this brake equalizer kit they sell that uses the rear shoes when you hit the foot brake? The hand brake still operates normally and it's quite a price difference from RM or disc kits.

[s1b]

I would imagine there wouldn't be any negative affect since your still using the trans brake.

[jock1027]

Did you begin the installation of your disk brakes?
I am very interested but would like to see a picture of an installation on small drum wooden 30" wheels.Jock1027

[FRANK PKNY]

No brakes this winter, can't work on the car till I heal from an operation. May go stock this summer and just drive very carefully, as always. Thinking rocke mountains would be a good way to improve along with floating axel bearings.

[s1b]

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Any updates to these brakes?

[32 chevy vett]

I used the setup from a 1100 honda. Front wheel. I used the master cylinder.
And the disks that are off set. It worked with the pedal and the hand brake.
If some thing brakes you can still stop. You must use a 26-27 rear case to hold the brackets for the calipers. I made my brackets by hand. But now you can have them cut on a water jet. I found an old honda for $100. If i can find the time i will go get it.I will and post the build.

[redmodelt]

In a pinch the small drum parking brake with lining works. Yes you can lock up the rear wheels with the transmission brake but remember, the foot print of 30 inch tires is very small and does not take much to lock the brakes and slide into the intersection in a panic stop, been there done that. The biggest reason for adding different independent brakes, is in case something breaks. If an axle breaks, the wheel and drum come off and you loose that brake if you don't have safety hubs. If something breaks between the transmission and rear end you still have stopping power.
I have the lined shoes and AC outside brakes. I drive in town most of the time so having a little extra stopping is good. Yes I find that I might drive a little faster keeping up with traffic but I also try to keep a good stopping distance between me and the next car and watch the lights.
To the person asking about the drum size, You have the large drum.

[s1b]

Originally Posted by 32 chevy vett

I used the setup from a 1100 honda. Front wheel. I used the master cylinder.
And the disks that are off set. It worked with the pedal and the hand brake.
If some thing brakes you can still stop. You must use a 26-27 rear case to hold the brackets for the calipers. I made my brackets by hand. But now you can have them cut on a water jet. I found an old honda for $100. If i can find the time i will go get it.I will and post the build.

This would be an interesting tech thread.

[s1b]

"I have the lined shoes and AC outside brakes." .???? Sorry for my ignorance, but "AC brakes"?

[yachtsmanbill]

Watch the trailer...open to full sreen for details. "It happened one night..." ws

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ar-hnj5Zsk4

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Once a T is modified in one way or the other to allow speeds to exceed 50 mph there is a few issues to be handled.

1- Would be steering as the T steering can be pretty dangerous , other steering boxes should be looked into. I used a REO on our last speedster .

2-Shocks , as a T doesnt have any shocks a big bump can get exciting at 50 plus mph...

3-Brakes, for sure some extra braking must be added. My last speedster ( the simple T on the hamb board) would cruise at 55 mph all day long . We added the ford expedition rear rotors and calipers. I have built three sets of these and they work very well especially with the small drum rear axle as the rotors are large enough to fit over the t backing plates alowing no needed backing plate mods etc.... We used a tilson master cylinder and a model a brake handle to work these brakes and they worked very well. I have another one in progress and will write up a tech article when i start on it...

Heres a couple pics of our Simple T laping the Indy 500 track with my 96 year old father in law Robert Ford and a pic showing the rear brakes..and the eight inch dropped axle made up by Dave Pratt Martinsville Indiana...

The steam in the photo came from waiting in line with a bunch of Corvettes, once i got around them it cooled off ...

[redmodelt]

Re AC brakes
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages...tml?1321237805
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages...tml?1315216050

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by yachtsmanbill

Watch the trailer...open to full sreen for details. "It happened one night..." ws

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ar-hnj5Zsk4

Love it bill, that T locked themup for sure!

[s1b]

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

Once a T is modified in one way or the other to allow speeds to exceed 50 mph there is a few issues to be handled.

1- Would be steering as the T steering can be pretty dangerous , other steering boxes should be looked into. I used a REO on our last speedster .

2-Shocks , as a T doesnt have any shocks a big bump can get exciting at 50 plus mph...

3-Brakes, for sure some extra braking must be added. My last speedster ( the simple T on the hamb board) would cruise at 55 mph all day long . We added the ford expedition rear rotors and calipers. I have built three sets of these and they work very well especially with the small drum rear axle as the rotors are large enough to fit over the t backing plates alowing no needed backing plate mods etc.... We used a tilson master cylinder and a model a brake handle to work these brakes and they worked very well. I have another one in progress and will write up a tech article when i start on it...

Heres a couple pics of our Simple T laping the Indy 500 track with my 96 year old father in law Robert Ford and a pic showing the rear brakes..and the eight inch dropped axle made up by Dave Pratt Martinsville Indiana...

The steam in the photo came from waiting in line with a bunch of Corvettes, once i got around them it cooled off ...

Bubba, I look forward to reading this.

[s1b]

Originally Posted by redmodelt

Re AC brakes
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages...tml?1321237805
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages...tml?1315216050

redmodelt , thanks for posting the links