Beam from front to back

[reggiedog]

HI;
Got a question as to what to seal the beam from front to back on both sides of the roof on a Model A there called side pieces, as it's the piece that you nail the roof to and rain gutters to.

On a late 1931 Deluxe Tudor Sedan as I bought new beams for that part of the roof and I don't know what to seal them with, as some people told me to use shellac on them but I was also told to use just Varnish on them.

But I have never done this before so I just thought I would ask what other people have used on there new roof pieces of wood, and as to how many coats you put on it as I live in Wisconsin and I get a lot of moisture up here so I need to seal it good as it's made out of Ash.

Thanks let me know Reggiedog

[J Franklin]

I use linseed oil cut with turpentine. It soaks into the wood.

[reggiedog]

What do u do mix it half and half or what and isn't that the stinky stuff as I think my brother used it one time and got bitched at for using that in the house and how much do u put on as to how many coats, and how long does it last as I need something that's going to last years as it's behind fibric of the car so once it's in the car u can't get to it again that's why u have to seal it before u put it in the car.

Reggiedog

[J Franklin]

50/50 works well, it has odor until it dries out mostly from the solvent. Use boiled oil not raw. It soaks into the wood and hardens to the fibers of the wood. Try some on a piece of scrap and see what you think.

[rotorwrench]

There are modern alternatives to spar varnish that take the elements well. Boiled linseed dries slower than I like to I gravitate toward the faster drying types. Jamestown Distributors has more stuff than I can shake a stick at. They have modern and older stuff too.

[reggiedog]

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rotorwrench,

I think I would go with that as my wife would kill me if I stunk the house up plus I don't like mixing to chemicals together so I think the spar varnish is the way to go on this sorry on the other guy but two chemicals mixed I don't like that one.

Reggiedog

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by reggiedog

rotorwrench,

two chemicals mixed I don't like that one.

Reggiedog

No need to be afraid of this combo. The oil is from grass grown in the soil and the turpentine is from trees grown in the same soil, or maybe close by.

[RDVAARK]

Reggiedog,
Check out David Gillespie's videos on U-Tube, Model A Ford series; top wood side wood, headers, how to fit , finish, PADDING BETWEEN WOOD AND BODY METAL, finishes,fasteners, and preservatives. Search around on Pumpkintown Primitives' sites and videos for the Model A series of videos.
Another source is One Who Collects' Model A series on how to fit and use manufactured wood parts. Also on U-Tube, may need some specific searching on his site. Seeing these videos has helped me a little more than narrative advice.
RDVAARK

[Planojc]

Just a safety note on using linseed oil. My neighbor almost burned his house down from using linseed oil with a rag. He had left a rag soaked with linseed oil on a work bench in his garage and later during the night it started burning. Here's how it happens: when linseed oil is exposed to air, it combines with the oxygen molecules. This chemical reaction creates heat. If the linseed oil is on something like a cotton rag, it can catch fire at as low as 120 degrees -- with no outside spark. The first thing that the fire chief asked him was did he have any linseed oil in the garage.

[Bob Bidonde]

Plain linseed oil remains tacky, but boiled linseed oil dries (non-sticky). Use boiled linseed oil.

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by Planojc

Just a safety note on using linseed oil. My neighbor almost burned his house down from using linseed oil with a rag.

That is why there is a safety warning on every container that has linseed oil in it.