32 drive shaft to pinion

[my4dv8]

This wasn’t what I was expecting to see on our early 32 diff . I can see a key way in there. But what holds the drive shaft in place? I want to remove it.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by my4dv8

This wasn’t what I was expecting to see on our early 32 diff . I can see a key way in there. But what holds the drive shaft in place? I want to remove it.

[Kurt in NJ]

A nut on the end —

[Brian]

yeah, a nut up aft of the pinion, a carry over from Model A.

[my4dv8]

Oh yuck. So the whole thing has to disassembled completely to take the axle tube off to get to the nut. Never done a model A axle. For some reason the TT is one inch short of the K member. A complete virgin 32 rear plucked from our B4 32 correct spring. K member is in the correct place, rear cross member is still on original rivets. TT measure 53 3/8???

[Randall]

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You don't have to remove axle housing, this video shows how to remove the pinion nut.
https://youtu.be/CKVT2z2vNF4?si=XoBpxYGjS2gJlefc

[Kurt in NJ]

The driveshaft is larger than the threads, that method works on model A, but the V8 driveshaft is too large in diameter

[DavidG]

Kurt,


All but very late production '32 Fords had the subject Model A type rear axle assembly, fours and V8s.

[32phil]

One thing to try is drop the rear spring out of the rear crossmember.
It helps to lift the frame off the spring onto jack stands and have the rear on wheels on or on a floor jack. Roll the rear end forward and insert the u joint onto the drive shaft.
Assemble the TT to the rear of the transmission completely. Install all parts to the u joint housing cover as well. Gaskets too.
most likely you will find the rear spring is too far forward of the rear crossmember.
Because the spring is mounted to the shackles it will move fore and aft some usually enough to get the spring to slide up into the opening.
A pry bar may help for that last little bit.

[my4dv8]

Still doesn’t explain why TT is one inch short of the K member.?.

[itslow]

Isn't the overall length (from front flange to axle centerline) different between 1932 B and V8 axle assemblies? Or does that only apply to 1933/34 models?

[DavidG]

If you think that the front of the torque tube should in the same plane as the rear surface of the center cross member or even in the opening of the center cross member, that would be incorrect. I'll not take apart one of mine to obtain the exact measurement of the gap, but it is at least a 1/2" or more and as '32phil correctly notes, there's a bit of fore and aft wiggle room via the spring shackles.

[DavidG]

Only to '33-'34 four-cylinder axles versus V8 axles.

[Lincolnville]

Not sure if this picture will answer your question. I have others if you are interested.

[Lincolnville]

one more picture.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Lincolnville

Not sure if this picture will answer your question. I have others if you are interested.

[DavidG]

You can remove that nut and nothing will happen for the simple reason that the pinion drive gear bearings are press fit in into the center housing and there's no other reason apart from wanting to replace those bearings to want to take it apart except perhaps to replace the pinion gear or the driveshaft itself. That's why the video is cited in #6 above.

[Lincolnville]

I've replaced the rear shaft. Not hard to do, but I seem to recall that the reason why I didn't mess with the TT is that it is pressed into the bearing and the bearing is pressed into the banjo housing.

[my4dv8]

Spring shackles are good. Definitely 1” gap. Maybe a big ratchet strap from K member to rear axle. But that seems a lot of pressure. I struggled to get just two nuts on a few turns .

[Lincolnville]

The TT is 53" in length.
Matt

[DavidG]

Which nuts are you referring to? You are getting pretty far removed from your original question and few of us have mastered mind reading.

[my4dv8]

Apologies David , that wasn’t clear. The 4 nuts that hold the cup onto the centre crossmember.

[Lincolnville]

My4dv8,

Are you referencing the bolts/nuts in the below pictures?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Lincolnville

My4dv8,

Are you referencing the bolts/nuts in the below pictures?

[DavidG]

I'll interpret that to mean the back of the transmission,not the cross member itself as shown in Lincolville's latest photos.


Sounds like it might be a bent rear cross member, which is pretty rare, but not unheard of.

[my4dv8]

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Yes Linconville thats the spot , i need better terminology. . Our Rear crossmember looks great. Engine dropped right in to the mounts , transmission bolted right up to the k member . K member is not fully bolted in but all the holes line up with the frame. A big ratchet strap sounds dicey, ,especially when you have your fingers in there aligning the universal joint . Think i need to dig out Davids excellent books.

[DavidG]

Leave the shift lever housing off and the gears in neutral and align your U-joint splines from there rather than at the U-joint itself. That's a lot easier on the fingers.


Now we find out that the center cross member is not riveted in place as original. How about the front cross member? Is it also bolted in? What engine and transmission are you using?

[my4dv8]

All flathead original , early 21 stud, all original rod brakes , yeah the chassis has been visited before by someone with misguided intentions . OK time to confess now .. I was only in mock up mode. So being the dumb ass I am ,I was trying to fit it all without a u joint. … Moron. . I have done plenty of these before. Of course light bulb moment , the U joint has to go on first, then roll the axle onto it . DUH. DUH . A bit of of crow baring the spring and bingo. Apologies for wasting everyone’s time. Really appreciate all the valuable input. Now i need to pay it forward . I do know stuff , really . But this incident does take the cake.

[DavidG]

Mystery solved, good to know. Learning by trial and error is half the fun!