Steering wheel too tight or too loose

[ped58]

Took my steering wheel off because it was very loose, I put a new nut and a wheel key in. The steering wheel looks new, if I tighten it, it's hard to turn and backing it out 1/4 turn it's too loose. The question is...how much do I tighten it? Or does it need some type of shim.

[Marshall V. Daut]

It appears that you have a '29 two-tooth steering box, as the end of the shaft is keyed instead of splined and you've got the black '29 steering wheel. Look down below where the tube meets the steering box. Ensure that it is pushed all the way against the top of the steering box. If there is a gap, that pushes the tube up and into the steering wheel = a bind when the steering wheel nut is sufficiently tightened. It's a close fit as it is. If there is even a little gap down there, loosen the clamp just above the juncture and the two slot-head bolts on the gas tank clamp and push/hammer the tube down home. Now you will have the clearance to tighten the steering wheel nut.
I have seen this problem a couple times on "restored" Model A's. Very common.
Marshall

[ped58]

Thanks for the information, I'll give it a try.

[Marshall V. Daut]

By the way, don't forget to re-tighten the column tube clamp bolt and slot-head steering column clamp bolts again! I've forgotten a time or two...
Marshall

[Marshall V. Daut]

Depending upon how high up the previous owner positioned the clamp towards the bottom of the steering column tube, you may have to loosen the bolt/nut on the clamp and slide the clamp up the tube or spin it 180 degrees in order to see if there is a gap. The bolt is supposed to be on the bottom of the tube, but I've seen the clamp positioned 180 degrees opposite, meaning the clamp halves are on top. Actually, I think it makes more sense this way so that water/mud from the road doesn't splash into the opening on the bottom (even past the engine splash pans), the nut and bolt are easier to access from the top, and as you'll discover when you check out my suggestion, you can immediately see if the bottom of the tube meets the top of the steering box by peeking between the clamp halves. But then, Henry didn't consult with me when this area was being designed.
Marshall

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Also be sure you have the correct key, and don't use the hardware store half moon key

[ped58]

The Key & Nut came from Snyder's..

[jimvette59]

Looks like your steering column tube is up to high. As Marshal mentioned loosen the clamp, clean off the area where the tube connects to the box and push the tube snug against the box. That should work.

[ped58]

Marshall...... Is this the gap your talking about? Well I loosen the screws on the gas tank and then I took them off and I can't budge the tube. Should I use a hammer and a block of wood, where would I hit it. Thanks

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yep, that's the gap. You should be able to grab the tube with both hands and twist it back and forth as you push it down to close the gap. Kroil might help.

Before you retighten the clamp, be sure it's in the correct position for the spark rod to have the correct travel.

[ped58]

Got her done...wish to thank everyone who responded. Could not have done it without the good people from the Barn. thanks again.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Yes, Tom is right. That minor gap is exactly why you couldn't tighten the steering wheel nut without ending up with a bind/hard steering. Apparently you were able to push/drive the housing down the final 1/4", right? GREAT!! Ain't it nice to fix a vexing problem like this without laying out a nickel?
Marshall

[ped58]

It was a bugger to move it down, but with some small pieces of 2x4 and hitting it at 12 and 6 o'clock it finally moved down. The steering wheel moves with no resistance, (car is on stands) what a nice feeling. And the price was right.