Newbie Questions

[Chevmn56]

I recieved the 31 Tudor deluxe today, i have been pouring over the car and this site and the internet trying to learn as much as i can. There are some questions that i cant find the answer to

1. I think the engine has been replaced (A1708745) a decoder i found on this site said that the motor was made June of 1929....does this mean the engine has been replaced?? or was it that common to have that many engines stock piled???

2. Carb needs gone through where can i find the type zenith, tilly and model number to get a rebuild kit...........or are there some better ideas out there.

3. I watched a YouTube video by a old guy on brake adjustment......is it really that in depth !!!!!??????? or is there a easier way....making a board cutting steps etc etc.

4. Also there is a silver cast box around the exhaust manifold that says "Auto-lite" its hollow and air is passed through it to the inside of the car. There is a door and a flow adjuster on the inside so you can shutoff or decrease air flow and direct it where you want. is this a correct period piece?

5.On the engine there is a aluminium crank cover (on the side) that says "Powered by Winfield" what is this piecei havent seen it on any other pics of A's engines?

[JDupuis]

Chevmn56: welcome to the Barn.
Congrats on the new car.
It was not uncommon for Model A's to have had the engines swapped over the years. I have 5 cars and only one of them has their supposedly original motor.
Which ever carb you have, the rebuild kits are available. One of the best suppliers is renners. Do a search for them as rennerscorners you will find their website.

Initial set up of your braking system is intense, at first. The board method is very helpful.
The silver cast manifold heater you have is period correct. Just insure that you don't have an exhaust leak.
The powered by winfield valve cover is an after market accessory. And very much saught after. Maybe you have the matching winfield high compression head as well.
Hope these answer some of your questions.
Happy Hallowe'en. Jeff

[burner31]

I seen some of your questions already answered.
I just wanted to say welcome, and hope you have years of enjoyment from, and with your car.

[Mikeinnj]

Can you post a photo of the carburator so we can identify what you have and recommend the correct rebuild kit and a good supplier. Welcome to the Fordbarn. It is a treasuretrove of information.Here is a link to some photos of both carbs.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3820

[700rpm]

What makes you think the carb needs work? Does the car run now? If so, drive it a while before you start taking apart, and get to know it.

[Chevmn56]

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Originally Posted by 700rpm

What makes you think the carb needs work? Does the car run now? If so, drive it a while before you start taking apart, and get to know it.

I will get the battery in it tomorrow.....it ran when it went across the auction block. The reason i think it needs rebuilt is gas drips from the intake when you turn the gas valve on and the engine not running. it also has some sort of neoprene wrapping the bowl, it looks as though it may have been glued and tie wrapped as well...... i do want to drive it a bit before i take that stuff off in case there is another issue.....i will take pictures of the carb tomorrow and post. im thinking that it is a Zenith....there is a idle /mixture screw i think on the top of the carb and the tilly it is kind of on the side. Not the mixture adjust the on that is close to the inlet of the intake.Thanks for all your help

[Chevmn56]

Originally Posted by JDupuis

Chevmn56: welcome to the Barn.
Congrats on the new car.
It was not uncommon for Model A's to have had the engines swapped over the years. I have 5 cars and only one of them has their supposedly original motor.
Which ever carb you have, the rebuild kits are available. One of the best suppliers is renners. Do a search for them as rennerscorners you will find their website.

Initial set up of your braking system is intense, at first. The board method is very helpful.
The silver cast manifold heater you have is period correct. Just insure that you don't have an exhaust leak.
The powered by winfield valve cover is an after market accessory. And very much saught after. Maybe you have the matching winfield high compression head as well.
Hope these answer some of your questions.
Happy Hallowe'en. Jeff

Is the Winfield head clearly marked across the top ???????

[Chevmn56]

Heres another silly question.....i have noticed that there is only one keyed door handle (passenger) and one inside lock\unlock on the drivers side. Every where i read thats normal. Is it because the man was supposed to let the lady in the car first and she could reach over and unlock the door? Or was it to keep costs down.

[Dollar Bill]

Originally Posted by Chevmn56

Is it because the man was supposed to let the lady in the car first and she could reach over and unlock the door? Or was it to keep costs down.

It was a safety consideration when parallel parking. The general idea was for the driver to slide over to the passenger side when exiting as it prevented getting out into oncoming traffic.

[Dollar Bill]

Originally Posted by Chevmn56

Is the Winfield head clearly marked across the top ???????

Example of a Winfield Head

[NCRebel]

Welcome from another new member (to the forum but not Model A's). I will tell you this, you are going to have fun in the discovery of your car.

Zenith carbs will drip if the fuel shutoff (in the cab) is left open or the ballcock has worn too much. There is an easy fix for all those issues. Good luck.

[RonC]

Joining a local club is highly recommended. The brake adjustment is described in the 1928-1931 Ford Service Bulletins produced by Ford for repair instructions. Buy the full 8-1/2 x 11 size copy it's easier to read.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Be careful with those door locks! It's easy to lock yourself out with the keys still in the ignition switch. How? If for some reason (and don't ask me how I know!) the passenger's side locking handle is locked and you exit the driver's side after engaging the slide lock, the car will be locked. If you had left the keys in the ignition with the door lock key on the ring, you are in trouble. I actually did this with my first Model in the 1960's, a week or two after buying it when I was still learning its idiosyncrasies. I had been showing someone how the passenger's side door handle locked with the key, but I forgot to UNlock it after the demonstration. I drove the car alone for a couple days with the passenger's door still locked from the outside. I was fooling around with the driver's door sliding lock one day and closed the door. Oops! It was locked. Oh, well. No big deal, right? I'll just go around to the other side and enter through the passenger's door. Uh-oh! It was still locked from the other day's demonstration - and the keys were in the ignition. Fortunately, the previous owner still had a spare set of keys that he forgot to give me when I bought the car a week or two before.
Anyway, learn from my stupidity. It IS possible to lock yourself out of the car. ('Does not apply to open cars, though! )
Marshall

[captndan]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

What makes you think the carb needs work? Does the car run now? If so, drive it a while before you start taking apart, and get to know it.

Best yet. “If it ain’t broke fix it till it is.”

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Sliding door lock: Under the door panel, I tied a loooong black boot string around the sliding lock, forward & over the inside handle shaft & down, barely visible, below the door. Just give it a TUG, on its' knotted end!
Bill Tricky

[Chevmn56]

Well got the A running and driving ....this is pretty damn cool. I joined the local club here in SLC the Salty A's (as suggested in this thread) they where thrilled to get some new blood.....they already invited us to there trip to Yellowstone next year, will see if the car is ready. I can see where you have to "learn" your car. This is my first 30s car i have a 41 Packard and a 56 Belair and ill tell you what this A is funner than hell to drive, but it sure makes sounds that i have never heard before.

That said i really need to get on the brakes i think sounds like grinding after a bit of driving and the E brake is non existent, I need to rebuild or replace the fuel shut off in the engine bay and get rid of the ball valve, can the shutoff be rebuilt????? its long and skinny not short and stubby lol sorry man still learning.
I also ordered the books that a poster suggested but have not recieved them yet, but i was hoping some one could post a pic of the dashlight/dome light wiring the dash housing and wiring are there but there is no power hook up, is it picked of the main fuse box (not sure what to call it) in the engine bay or spliced into the cowl lights?????

I also found a condensor for the ignition zip tied to a cable underneath the dash its long and it has a tab for mounting on the bottom and a brass nut on top.......where in the hell is the one that should be in use??????

Thanks again, i know some of you old guys think these questions are probably stupid and i apologize but there is only one way to learn......and i dont have anyone to watch over there shoulder and ask dumb questions ( other than here) bear with me after a bit ill slowly fade away LOL

[1930artdeco]

The fuel shut off is rebuildable, just get the kit from the vendors. The condenser should be in the distributor base if it is original. Other places are: on the top plate if it is the 60's v-8 cond. or on the fire wall by the junction box. Yours may be an extra that is a spare.

Mike