The Ford Barn

George, Iowa · 09-08-2020, 12:29 PM

I was wondering if anyone had experience with the overall fit of new full sub-frame rails? Do they match up with the originals or need modifications? And what supplier was you happy with? Mine are rusted only on the back half. Should I replace all or just weld on the back half? I already have access to the full sub-frame.

Thanks for your knowledge...

john charlton · 09-08-2020, 01:38 PM

I would only fit what needs replacing .Once you remove a complete subrail the body on that side looses rigidity and can open a can of worms . Door fit etc etc .

John in warm humid evening Suffolk County England .

Big hammer · 09-08-2020, 02:31 PM

I had my Tudor body completely apart, quarter panels, rear panel, sub frame, cowl. I could carry each part over my shoulder. I was going to replace both sub rails, end up just repairing one rear sub rail, just repair what's needed be it back half or better just sections! My body was disassembled way to long, life gets in the way sometimes.

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 09-08-2020, 06:13 PM

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George, there really is not a right or wrong answer to your question. It really is about how badly yours are damaged, and what you have to work with.

To my knowledge there is only one manufacturer of these, but I will also tell you that while they are good, they are not that accurate. Accuracy and authenticity may not matter, and if that is your feeling, then you will likely be happy with them. Also understand that most of the holes (for rivets or alignment) are not on the reproduction sills. On the reproduction cross sills, the provisions for the floorboard clinchnut screw is not there. To do them accurately, the area will need to be dimpled and then the D shape for the nut must be added. This allows the nut to set below the lip so the floorboards can be tightened enough to seal against the flange. The ends of the cross sills will need to be modified so that the floor pans will sit flush. The sides of the sills are not the correct height which will require some trimming. Also some reshaping in the corners to meet the quarter-lock pillar and the inner wheelwells.

It is definitely doable without a jig, but you are going to need to triangulate the body out well with tubing (electrical EMT works well for this) and make sure the deck door and the side doors all have the proper gaps before you begin. It takes a lot of patience and diligence to keep adjusting until it is correct. This is especially true for the sill extensions. If you need any pictures for inspiration, I can probably find you a few. Good Luck in whichever direction you choose to go.

09-08-2020, 12:29 PM	#1
George, Iowa Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ames, Iowa Posts: 133	1930 Coupe Sub-frame Rails - Replace half or full? I was wondering if anyone had experience with the overall fit of new full sub-frame rails? Do they match up with the originals or need modifications? And what supplier was you happy with? Mine are rusted only on the back half. Should I replace all or just weld on the back half? I already have access to the full sub-frame. Thanks for your knowledge...

09-08-2020, 01:38 PM	#2
john charlton Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,304	Re: 1930 Coupe Sub-frame Rails - Replace half or full? I would only fit what needs replacing .Once you remove a complete subrail the body on that side looses rigidity and can open a can of worms . Door fit etc etc . John in warm humid evening Suffolk County England .

09-08-2020, 02:31 PM	#3
Big hammer Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Land of Lincoln Posts: 3,131	Re: 1930 Coupe Sub-frame Rails - Replace half or full? I had my Tudor body completely apart, quarter panels, rear panel, sub frame, cowl. I could carry each part over my shoulder. I was going to replace both sub rails, end up just repairing one rear sub rail, just repair what's needed be it back half or better just sections! My body was disassembled way to long, life gets in the way sometimes. __________________ Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done

09-08-2020, 06:13 PM	#4
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,511	Re: 1930 Coupe Sub-frame Rails - Replace half or full? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) George, there really is not a right or wrong answer to your question. It really is about how badly yours are damaged, and what you have to work with. To my knowledge there is only one manufacturer of these, but I will also tell you that while they are good, they are not that accurate. Accuracy and authenticity may not matter, and if that is your feeling, then you will likely be happy with them. Also understand that most of the holes (for rivets or alignment) are not on the reproduction sills. On the reproduction cross sills, the provisions for the floorboard clinchnut screw is not there. To do them accurately, the area will need to be dimpled and then the D shape for the nut must be added. This allows the nut to set below the lip so the floorboards can be tightened enough to seal against the flange. The ends of the cross sills will need to be modified so that the floor pans will sit flush. The sides of the sills are not the correct height which will require some trimming. Also some reshaping in the corners to meet the quarter-lock pillar and the inner wheelwells. It is definitely doable without a jig, but you are going to need to triangulate the body out well with tubing (electrical EMT works well for this) and make sure the deck door and the side doors all have the proper gaps before you begin. It takes a lot of patience and diligence to keep adjusting until it is correct. This is especially true for the sill extensions. If you need any pictures for inspiration, I can probably find you a few. Good Luck in whichever direction you choose to go. __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .