gas gauge rebuild

[Richard Lorenz]

The wire to the float on my gauge got bent up during removal. Does anyone have some dimensions for it?

I am also having trouble removing the center star ring (nut). Any suggestions that are better than what is in Les Andrews' book?

[Tom Wesenberg]

For the center nut I remove the pivot pin and arm, then rest the gauge over a 1 x 4 clamped in the vice, so the gauge sits on the board like a saddle. Now you can push down and twist the tool with a lot of pressure.

[DaWizard]

I just finished rebuilding mine, and while it was still in the tank I took the ¾" square stock and loosened it. After that when it was out it was easily removed.

[Richard Lorenz]

Tom's method of clamping a board in a vise works well. The inside of 2 of my gauges came out easily with his technique, but the other 2 did not budge. I used a 2-foot long pipe over my 9/16 wrench to increase the leverage. I will try an impact wrench on the other two as soon as I can get the right connector to the wrench.

[1crosscut]

Using an impact wrench would sort of scare me.
Drop them in a pot of water and boil them for a while. Then give it a go.
Water is the universal solvent.

[DaWizard]

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Originally Posted by Richard Lorenz

Tom's method of clamping a board in a vise works well. The inside of 2 of my gauges came out easily with his technique, but the other 2 did not budge. I used a 2-foot long pipe over my 9/16 wrench to increase the leverage. I will try an impact wrench on the other two as soon as I can get the right connector to the wrench.

I am thinking this is a weee bit extreme. If it takes this much effort I would find something like acetone or lacquer thinner and soak them a week or three before getting out the impact wrench.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by DaWizard

I am thinking this is a weee bit extreme. If it takes this much effort I would find something like acetone or lacquer thinner and soak them a week or three before getting out the impact wrench.

I agree, and I used lacquer thinner to soak a couple in, then used the board.

[Richard Lorenz]

I soaked the 2 stubborn gauges in lacquer thinner overnight. They did not budge with the 2-foot pipe lever. They also did not come loose using an impact wrench with the gauges mounted on Tom's wooden support.

I then tried the impact wrench with the gauges mounted on a steel support that was about 0.540 inches thick. Both gauge centers easily came loose with this combination.

[DaWizard]

Well, as long as there was no damage to them I say "YEEEEHAAAAA"

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Richard Lorenz

I soaked the 2 stubborn gauges in lacquer thinner overnight. They did not budge with the 2-foot pipe lever. They also did not come loose using an impact wrench with the gauges mounted on Tom's wooden support.

I then tried the impact wrench with the gauges mounted on a steel support that was about 0.540 inches thick. Both gauge centers easily came loose with this combination.

Yes, just a small bit of give makes a big difference in the applied torque. Just like when you are holding the impact gun, if you get a very firm grip to hold it more solid, it will remove nuts that won't come off with a loose grip.

[Richard Lorenz]

Here is a little bit more information. I have been using the aluminum gas gauge removal tools that the all of the vendors sell. They have stood up to all of the hard treatment that I have given them.

Secondly, in order to loosen the outer ring on my '29 Tudor, I had to use a very heavy hammer (maybe 4 pounds) in order to get it loose. Hitting the wrench as hard as I could with a regular hammer did not budge the ring.

Thanks to all who have commented on my project. Richard Lorenz

[coupe1942]

Originally Posted by 1crosscut

Using an impact wrench would sort of scare me.
Drop them in a pot of water and boil them for a while. Then give it a go.
Water is the universal solvent.

A bit off topic for this, but I bought an old crock pot at a thrift store for a couple of bucks. It does wonders for removal of rust on hinges and bolts and such by simply dropping in some water and then the part to cook there for a while. I see them all the time and really cheap in Goodwill and Salvation Army stores. Mine is pretty large, but I am not sure how big the part is that the OP wanted loosened. I find it a great tool to have about in the shop.

The gas gauge on my pickup was easy to remove with the stock aluminum tools. Lucky for me, I suppose. I am wondering if a really difficult one would come out easier if the star nut was not twisted to loosen first, but actually given a bit of a push to tighten before attempting to loosen? That method works on some bolts that are stuck.

[SSsssteamer]

I just removed my 1931 model A CCPU gas gauge to install a new float on it. The star nut was easily removed with a 3/4" drive extension while the gauge was still in the tank. I had to grind the 3/4" drive end of the extension flat to fully engage the star nut. The outside 10 sided nut was a bear to break loose. The aluminum wrench made for this task stripped out immediately. I hammered the wrench flatter to reduce its opening size so it would fit the nut tightly. I soaked the ten sided nut with carburetor choke cleaner from a spray can. While the nut was soaking and still in the tank, I use a hand held hot air blower on the nut area to warm up the fuel tank's gas gauge area. After about a total of 45 minutes of struggling, the 10 sided nut came off. Success...

[larrys40]

I agree with Steamer about using a heat gun or very hot hair blower. I prefer the heat gun with controlled heat.. to loosen up the old fuel and varnish on the threads.
I always service the gas gauge unit out of the car removing only the outer nut to remove the gauge from the car and then the inner star shaped nut from the bench while servicing the unit.

I always calibrate the gauge by installing the gauge ( holding it in and with a hook type coat hanger or something pull the wire and float to the top of the tank. If the gauge doesn't read full then you will have to slightly bend the wire up or down to get it to register correctly. It's a trial and error. when set correctly the "O" for empty will be at the bottom ( if tank is dry) It's only necessary to have the level below the gauge to service.

I am spoiled as I use original Ford 5Z tools for this. some of the repros aren't the best. Make sure you get the inner nut tight on the bench. I would never use an impact on this assembly! Only 1 cork gasket behind the gauge with the brass thrust ring on the front side before installing the large outer nut. A hopefully the gauge won;t move when tightening but if it does make adjustments to offset.

Best of luck...
Larry Shepard