Stroked 4 banger

[Cblackburn]

Can anyone tell me were to get a 4 banger overhauld

[kwisor]

try james rodger at dream works did my 1930 model a and runs like new
here is his link
http://www.model-a-ford-4bangers.com/

[Ross/Kzoo]

Probably a lot of people could. Your location could make a big difference.

[Cblackburn]

N.c

[Ross/Kzoo]

See James Rodgers. I believe he's by Asheville..

[petew]

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Another vote for James , he's the man in North Carolina.

[Pete]

Just curious. What does the thread title have to do with the initial question?

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by Pete

Just curious. What does the thread title have to do with the initial question?

That got me also! Before opening I'm thinking "B" crank ground for "A" rods, as well as other options!

[Logan]

Of you're wanting a reliable strong running motor check out Ron Kelley. He is a one man machine shop and knows anything and everything about A/B blocks. He can build you anything from a stock inserted motor to a motor that you could go out and break land speed records in. He only uses top quality parts, and you get what you pay for. Yes he is expensive compared to everyone else, but when you sit down and consider everything that he does and how meticulous he is, it all pays out. He's less $ per mile than most other builders. He only uses perfect un-cracked blocks, blocks that do not need sleeves, and truly puts the best quality machine work and parts into his motors that he can. No matter who you choose, you should atleast give Ron a call and talk to him, and he can atleast give you some pointers to look out for if you choose to go another route.

[colin1928]

Question is this engine already stroked or do you want to stroke it

[waxhead]

Does anyone have contact info for Ron Kelley?? Thanks in advance

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Cblackburn

Can anyone tell me were to get a 4 banger overhauld

I think more info would be helpful. Most people associate "overhauled" as a cheap rebuild where corners are cut to save dollars. If this is your intent, then some shops may not be so eager to take on such a project.

While on the subject of slang nomenclature, the term '4 banger' generally means a "hopped up" or modified Model A/B engine. Some folks tend to rightly associate large sums of money with those terms, ...and the term 'stroked' fits in there as well. This may very well be your goal, ...and those goals also need to be known before advice on a competent rebuilder can be given. Just my thoughts, --and welcome to Fordbarn!!

[Tom Wesenberg]

The Model A already is a long stroke engine, why add to it?
Seems to me there are better ways to gain horsepower.

[Logan]

Originally Posted by waxhead

Does anyone have contact info for Ron Kelley?? Thanks in advance

http://www.modelaperformance.com/?noredirect

[just plain bill]

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

That got me also! Before opening I'm thinking "B" crank ground for "A" rods, as well as other options!

Yes I thought the same thing. I have one and and I'm getting ready to reinstall it in my engine.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The Model A already is a long stroke engine, why add to it?
Seems to me there are better ways to gain horsepower.

Hey Tom,
'why'.....more cubic inches, more torque and bragging/talking points !

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The Model A already is a long stroke engine, why add to it?
Seems to me there are better ways to gain horsepower.

Stroking is about racing. (thread title)
250 cubic inches always beats 200 cubic inches.(numbers rounded off)

Besides all that it looks like the original poster was just wanting to create talk.
His question was more than adequately answered and he disappeared.

[waxhead]

Originally Posted by Logan

http://www.modelaperformance.com/?noredirect

Thanks Logan

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The Model A already is a long stroke engine, why add to it?
Seems to me there are better ways to gain horsepower.

Think you are right. The piston speed on a model A is high already. Seems shorter stroke and more rpms with better breathing would work better.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by George Miller

Think you are right. The piston speed on a model A is high already. Seems shorter stroke and more rpms with better breathing would work better.

My thoughts are just the opposite of yours. Additional Stroke typically makes more Torque. In 'Hill Climbing', and in "around town driving", torque is your friend. Torque is what "pulls". The more, the better.

In a typical flathead configuration, the breathing IS lacking, ...by using a longer rod, --or with a longer stroke (shorter rod), there is more dwell time with the piston which helps with volumetric efficiency. Slower RPM engines (--such as a Model-A/B with 3 main bearings) do not like high(er) RPMs and as such, are better (longevity, reliability, etc.) when they are configured to take advantage of torque.

FWIW, Scat will make a counterweighted billet crank in any pin size and any stroke (within reason) that you want for roughly $1300.00. The trick then is to find a piston with a pin height that takes advantage of the long rod. New forged pistons with better pin diameter and location can be had for roughly $200.00 a piece. Add for good quality pins.

With a stock engine's B & S, you get roughly 200 cubic inches of displacement. With a .125" overbore and a ¼" stroke, the cubic inches moves up to about 226 inches, so those who subscribe to the saying of "no substitute for cubic inches", should like that number!

[just plain bill]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

My thoughts are just the opposite of yours. Additional Stroke typically makes more Torque. In 'Hill Climbing', and in "around town driving", torque is your friend. Torque is what "pulls". The more, the better.

In a typical flathead configuration, the breathing IS lacking, ...by using a longer rod, --or with a longer stroke (shorter rod), there is more dwell time with the piston which helps with volumetric efficiency. Slower RPM engines (--such as a Model-A/B with 3 main bearings) do not like high(er) RPMs and as such, are better (longevity, reliability, etc.) when they are configured to take advantage of torque.

FWIW, Scat will make a counterweighted billet crank in any pin size and any stroke (within reason) that you want for roughly $1300.00. The trick then is to find a piston with a pin height that takes advantage of the long rod. New forged pistons with better pin diameter and location can be had for roughly $200.00 a piece. Add for good quality pins.

With a stock engine's B & S, you get roughly 200 cubic inches of displacement. With a .125" overbore and a ¼" stroke, the cubic inches moves up to about 226 inches, so those who subscribe to the saying of "no substitute for cubic inches", should like that number!

I think you are about $500 low on Scat stroker crank. My last set of pistons from J and E for a stroker were around $380 for the set including pins.