The Ford Barn

ratamahata · 08-24-2013, 05:15 PM

Hi I wonder if it's worth placing a 1932-1934 cylinder head on my A block, I'm trying to get some more power without spending much money, Model B head is something easy to get in my country. Really worth the effort? and what about the head gasket?
Also let me know if I can put a model B camshaft for the same purpose.

Thanks Leandro

Jordan · 08-24-2013, 06:04 PM

Best bet would be to buy a snyders high comp head. It's new so you don't have to worry about any cracks or it being warped.

Logan · 08-24-2013, 06:13 PM

The model B head with the C casted in the top of it is not worth the effort of changing. It's barely any higher of a compression. The model a "police heads" with the letter B stamped in the top of it is worth changing over to though. I think they're at a 5.2:1 compression ratio. But in my opinion, the best head that you could put on one is the brand new snyders heads. They're about $300. They sell the 5.5:1 ratio and the 6.0:1 ratio. There isn't a whole lot of difference between the two performance wise, but if you have a motor that you don't know anything about or how long since it's last rebuild, I would go with the 5.5:1 just to be easier on the motor. Neither one should cause catastrophic engine failure, but the 5.5 will be easier on the bearings. As far as a camshaft is concerned, it's worth it to swap it out, if you are already planning on tearing into the motor. You may look at some other cam shafts besides a B though. There are quite a few people out there doing custom grinds for camshafts. One of the most known is bill stipe. You can google him and find his website. He has lots of different choices of camshafts to choose from that will give you more torque than a B cam would. And they're only like $125 maybe $150 (i think) if you send him a good camshaft as an exchange. Although bill did not do the camshaft in my brothers motor, it is what I would consider to be a really good street drivable cam. It idles a little differently than a stock A, but has some real torque behind it. It's what could be considered a 1/2 race camshaft. Ron Kelly is who designed the grind for that camshaft. The motor I just put together for my coupe has a full race cam in it. It does not idle at all like an A. It's got a real beefy lope to it, but creates great torque at higher rpms. There's a lot of different choices you can look at for cams, it all just boils down to what kind of driving you would want to do.

Dave in MN · 08-24-2013, 06:46 PM

Leondro,
A greater lift on the cam requires the use of tappets with a larger base diameter. If you replace the cam with anything close to a B grind, you will need to install tappets with a base of about 1.12" ...which is the size of the single lock tappets I have on my shelf. Many of the early double lock adjustable tappets were only .950" at the base (where the cam contacted) and this is not large enough. If you contact Bill Stipe as suggested...he will tell you what the minimum size should be.

Good Day!

Mike V. Florida · 08-24-2013, 11:01 PM

"I'm trying to get some more power without spending much money,"

Speed and money go together, more speed = more money, how fast do you want to go?

I'm serious, of course a B head is more compression but add the price of a new water pump and is it really worth it for only 4.6:1? Snyders has high compression heads (6.1:1), engine builders can create an engine for you that will exceed 100 MPH, all you need is money.

Purdy Swoft · 08-24-2013, 11:14 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I've run the C head and can notice an improvement. acording to the dyno tests that I have seen, the C head installed on an otherwise stock model A engine gives near a seven horsepower increase. If the B cam, intake manifold and carb is used in conjunction with the C head, you will gain near 10 extra horses. Of course a new head with higher compression will help more. I'm a po country boy and i've seen the time that I couldn't afford a new head. I could really appreciate the extra power that the C head gave. Free flowing exhaust as in gutted muffler and a hot coil will also make a difference.

Terry, NJ · 08-25-2013, 08:03 AM

Cheap speed is hard to find, Try these. If you can get a Mod B head and waterpump fairly cheap , get it! Then take it to a local Machine shop that grinds head and have them grind about one millimeter (.040") off. Yes you can buy a new head, but I think the import taxes and shipping make it cost a lot more than $300. Your choice.
Next. Get a B carburetor. Take the A manifold to the Machine shop and have the intake side of it drilled out with a 31 MM or 31.5 drill. (1.250-260) Polish these surfaces and the intakes and exhaust. Install the Mod B carburetor. And install the Mod B cam and put on an aluminum timing gear. These things should be bought locally. Make sure all the valves etc are in good shape and are gapped correctly.
Terry

Jim Brierley · 08-25-2013, 01:48 PM

Higher compression and a bigger carb are the 2 quickest and easiest way to more HP. If you can get the C head milled, it would help even more than as-stock. A cam will help very little unless you do the above first, and is a lot more trouble to do. When you have the head off, check the valve lift to determine in the cam is worn enough to warrant a change. Actual valve lift should be .280", more indicates a B or performance cam, less means it is time for a change.

ratamahata · 08-25-2013, 04:47 PM

Thank, thank all for the education, I was thinking in a weber 32-36 carb and a custom made intake in stainless steel...

Terry, NJ · 08-25-2013, 06:44 PM

If you really don't care about the prices, Buy a new Stipe Cam $425 (?) then buy a set of exhaust headers $410 and a head 6.7 -1 CR $ 525 They'll be happy to take your money! I almost forgot the Vortex 2/1 intake manifold $269. Shipping and import duties shouldn't be much. Better get the block punched out too, only $95 for new pistons. And oversize valves adjustable lifters, Hhmmmmm let me see, what else? I think that's it. Yes, They'll be happy to taken your money. Terry

ratamahata · 08-27-2013, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

If you really don't care about the prices, Buy a new Stipe Cam $425 (?) then buy a set of exhaust headers $410 and a head 6.7 -1 CR $ 525 They'll be happy to take your money! I almost forgot the Vortex 2/1 intake manifold $269. Shipping and import duties shouldn't be much. Better get the block punched out too, only $95 for new pistons. And oversize valves adjustable lifters, Hhmmmmm let me see, what else? I think that's it. Yes, They'll be happy to taken your money. Terry

Ok'll let you know, thank you very much

08-24-2013, 05:15 PM	#1
ratamahata Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Argentina Posts: 710	Model "A" possible engine modifications? Hi I wonder if it's worth placing a 1932-1934 cylinder head on my A block, I'm trying to get some more power without spending much money, Model B head is something easy to get in my country. Really worth the effort? and what about the head gasket? Also let me know if I can put a model B camshaft for the same purpose. Thanks Leandro

08-24-2013, 06:04 PM	#2
Jordan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ft. Worth Posts: 1,006	Re: Model "A" possible engine modifications? Best bet would be to buy a snyders high comp head. It's new so you don't have to worry about any cracks or it being warped. __________________ Cowtown A's

08-24-2013, 06:13 PM	#3
Logan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Posts: 1,055	Re: Model "A" possible engine modifications? The model B head with the C casted in the top of it is not worth the effort of changing. It's barely any higher of a compression. The model a "police heads" with the letter B stamped in the top of it is worth changing over to though. I think they're at a 5.2:1 compression ratio. But in my opinion, the best head that you could put on one is the brand new snyders heads. They're about $300. They sell the 5.5:1 ratio and the 6.0:1 ratio. There isn't a whole lot of difference between the two performance wise, but if you have a motor that you don't know anything about or how long since it's last rebuild, I would go with the 5.5:1 just to be easier on the motor. Neither one should cause catastrophic engine failure, but the 5.5 will be easier on the bearings. As far as a camshaft is concerned, it's worth it to swap it out, if you are already planning on tearing into the motor. You may look at some other cam shafts besides a B though. There are quite a few people out there doing custom grinds for camshafts. One of the most known is bill stipe. You can google him and find his website. He has lots of different choices of camshafts to choose from that will give you more torque than a B cam would. And they're only like $125 maybe $150 (i think) if you send him a good camshaft as an exchange. Although bill did not do the camshaft in my brothers motor, it is what I would consider to be a really good street drivable cam. It idles a little differently than a stock A, but has some real torque behind it. It's what could be considered a 1/2 race camshaft. Ron Kelly is who designed the grind for that camshaft. The motor I just put together for my coupe has a full race cam in it. It does not idle at all like an A. It's got a real beefy lope to it, but creates great torque at higher rpms. There's a lot of different choices you can look at for cams, it all just boils down to what kind of driving you would want to do. __________________ Cowtown A's

08-24-2013, 06:46 PM	#4
Dave in MN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Jordan, MN Posts: 1,411	Re: Model "A" possible engine modifications? Leondro, A greater lift on the cam requires the use of tappets with a larger base diameter. If you replace the cam with anything close to a B grind, you will need to install tappets with a base of about 1.12" ...which is the size of the single lock tappets I have on my shelf. Many of the early double lock adjustable tappets were only .950" at the base (where the cam contacted) and this is not large enough. If you contact Bill Stipe as suggested...he will tell you what the minimum size should be. Good Day!

08-24-2013, 11:01 PM	#5
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: Model "A" possible engine modifications? "I'm trying to get some more power without spending much money," Speed and money go together, more speed = more money, how fast do you want to go? I'm serious, of course a B head is more compression but add the price of a new water pump and is it really worth it for only 4.6:1? Snyders has high compression heads (6.1:1), engine builders can create an engine for you that will exceed 100 MPH, all you need is money. __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

08-24-2013, 11:14 PM	#6
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Model "A" possible engine modifications? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I've run the C head and can notice an improvement. acording to the dyno tests that I have seen, the C head installed on an otherwise stock model A engine gives near a seven horsepower increase. If the B cam, intake manifold and carb is used in conjunction with the C head, you will gain near 10 extra horses. Of course a new head with higher compression will help more. I'm a po country boy and i've seen the time that I couldn't afford a new head. I could really appreciate the extra power that the C head gave. Free flowing exhaust as in gutted muffler and a hot coil will also make a difference. Last edited by Purdy Swoft; 08-24-2013 at 11:20 PM.

08-25-2013, 08:03 AM	#7
Terry, NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks Co, Pa Posts: 3,740	Re: Model "A" possible engine modifications? Cheap speed is hard to find, Try these. If you can get a Mod B head and waterpump fairly cheap , get it! Then take it to a local Machine shop that grinds head and have them grind about one millimeter (.040") off. Yes you can buy a new head, but I think the import taxes and shipping make it cost a lot more than $300. Your choice. Next. Get a B carburetor. Take the A manifold to the Machine shop and have the intake side of it drilled out with a 31 MM or 31.5 drill. (1.250-260) Polish these surfaces and the intakes and exhaust. Install the Mod B carburetor. And install the Mod B cam and put on an aluminum timing gear. These things should be bought locally. Make sure all the valves etc are in good shape and are gapped correctly. Terry

08-25-2013, 01:48 PM	#8
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,087	Re: Model "A" possible engine modifications? Higher compression and a bigger carb are the 2 quickest and easiest way to more HP. If you can get the C head milled, it would help even more than as-stock. A cam will help very little unless you do the above first, and is a lot more trouble to do. When you have the head off, check the valve lift to determine in the cam is worn enough to warrant a change. Actual valve lift should be .280", more indicates a B or performance cam, less means it is time for a change.

08-25-2013, 04:47 PM	#9
ratamahata Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Argentina Posts: 710	Re: Model "A" possible engine modifications? Thank, thank all for the education, I was thinking in a weber 32-36 carb and a custom made intake in stainless steel...

08-25-2013, 06:44 PM	#10
Terry, NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks Co, Pa Posts: 3,740	Re: Model "A" possible engine modifications? If you really don't care about the prices, Buy a new Stipe Cam $425 (?) then buy a set of exhaust headers $410 and a head 6.7 -1 CR $ 525 They'll be happy to take your money! I almost forgot the Vortex 2/1 intake manifold $269. Shipping and import duties shouldn't be much. Better get the block punched out too, only $95 for new pistons. And oversize valves adjustable lifters, Hhmmmmm let me see, what else? I think that's it. Yes, They'll be happy to taken your money. Terry