The Ford Barn

Cape Codder · 08-10-2013, 10:18 PM

We have power to both sides of box on fire wall. Also there is power to ARM side of points but no spark when cranking. Condenser and points have been changed.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks for your time.
Cape Codder

pat in Santa Cruz · 08-10-2013, 11:20 PM

how's your coil?

Purdy Swoft · 08-10-2013, 11:24 PM

If the battery is weak, it may not have enough power to turn the starter and fire the points with enough power to start the engine. I've had this problem before.

H. L. Chauvin · 08-11-2013, 01:09 AM

Remove all 4 plugs.

Lay same on their sides for ground.

Crank engine to see if plugs are firing at plug gaps.

Why?

If plugs are not firing out of the combustion chamber they will not fire in the combustion chamber to make the engine run.

Tom Wesenberg · 08-11-2013, 01:33 AM

Is the rotor turning?

Does the distributor have a good ground?

Mike V. Florida · 08-11-2013, 02:06 AM

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This is my generic no spark troubleshooting list,

No Spark
Some possibilities are:
1.Blown or defective fuse (use of a fuse is an aftermarket item)
2.Bad connections at ammeter, or ammeter itself (t0 find out put a jumper wire from one post of the terminal box to the other to take the ammeter out of the circuit temporarily)
3.Bad ignition switch and/or cable, or loose cable connection at switch.
4.Loose or broken wires at bottom of coil
5.Loose or broken wires inside terminal box
6.Loose, bare or broken pigtail wire under distributor plate, or wire grounding to plate or distributor body
7.Points not opening, or point arm grounding to cam due to worn rubbing block
8.Worn electrode in underside of distributor cap
9.Loose or broken high tension wire from coil to cap
10.Condenser burned out or grounding (some condensers are too long and can touch the distributor body inside)
11.Weak coil
12.Rotor not turning due to loose cam screw or bad timing gear.

Ok now break out a volt meter (a light bulb can give false readings).
Start at the fuse block, you should have voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you only have voltage on one side, replace the fuse or fuse block.

Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now.
You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not,
remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.

Open the points with a piece of paper and remove the condenser. Turn the key on and you should have voltage at the points.
Replace the condenser and you should still have voltage.

If voltage is missing, remove the top plate and check for voltage on the bottom plate.

Check is the connector from the ignition switch screwed in to far? Do you have voltage on the wire to the upper plate?

Is this wire shorting to ground or broken?

Remove the paper from the points and see that the points are closed. You should not have 0 volts at the points. If not,
The points are dirty or the distributor is not grounded well to the engine.

Cape Codder · 08-11-2013, 07:33 AM

Everything was done with a test light. There is power to both sides of coil as well as to both sides of terminal box.

PAT in Santa Cruz - don't know if coil is really good other then like I said power is to both sides of it.

TOM - the rotor turns and I would assume the distributor is well grounded because there is power to the ARM side of the points.

Mike V. in Florida - will go thru your list of ideas and see if there is anything different then the Les Andrews book. We thought of removing the bottom plate last night but don't understand why we have power ( light comes on ) at the ARM. If there was something wrong in the bottom would we NOT have power to this arm?

Thanks for all the ideas and will get back to the board,

Wanted to take this pickup to the Club picnic today but its a no go so will use another A.

Once again thanks for your time.
Cape Codder

Tom Wesenberg · 08-11-2013, 11:45 AM

Key ON, engine stopped with points OPEN, then short the points contacts with a screwdriver and see if the coil wire has a good blue spark at least 1/4" long.

Power at the points arm doesn't mean the dist body has a good ground. Key ON and engine stopped with the POINTS CLOSED, now do you still show power at the points arm? If so then the dist isn't grounded, or the points contacts are dirty.

Mike V. Florida · 08-11-2013, 11:07 PM

You are down to 4 things from what I can see, your points are not closing, the points are dirty, the distributor/engine is not grounded bad (open) coil.

With the points open you should have voltage at the arm as measured from the arm to the distributor body.

If not you have a bad ground. Move the test light to the engine head stud then to the frame to find where you are losing ground.

Close the points and you should now have 0 volts. This shows good point contact.

Open the points and as you do so, you should get a strong spark from the coil.

By the was I don't like test lights to test for voltage as they will still light even with low voltage. Without the engine running a cheap digital volt meter will work fine.

Cape Codder · 08-19-2013, 12:21 PM

Still haven't figured out the problem. Do have spark at points when opening and closing with a screwdriver but NOTHING when trying to use starter. Can this be a bad ignition cable and if so is it checked by continuity from stud at ignition switch to bottom of cable at distributor?

modelAtony · 08-19-2013, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

We have power to both sides of box on fire wall. Also there is power to ARM side of points but no spark when cranking. Condenser and points have been changed.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks for your time.
Cape Codder

CHECK to see if both nuts are tight in your terminal box.

Mike V. Florida · 08-19-2013, 01:59 PM

What is the voltage at the terminal box while the starter is turning the engine over?

Mitch//pa · 08-19-2013, 02:27 PM

cape,
you never mentioned if you have spark at the coil wire when holding it near a head nut...
try it using a screwdriver at the points and when cranking.. make sure you have a good battery as purdy mentioned above

Cape Codder · 08-19-2013, 03:12 PM

Will be checking all the recent suggestions but forgot to mention one other thing.
There is 6 volts at the points but when cranking the starter it goes to 1 - 0 volts.

Doot · 08-19-2013, 03:24 PM

Make sure the ignition wire spring under distributor plate is free from debris and lubed enough to spring in and out.

Mike V. Florida · 08-19-2013, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Will be checking all the recent suggestions but forgot to mention one other thing.
There is 6 volts at the points but when cranking the starter it goes to 1 - 0 volts.

BAD BATTERY!

If you hand crank it I bet it will start.

Cape Codder · 08-23-2013, 04:46 PM

Well we got in running but I'm not so sure the problem is REALLY fixed.
Removed the whole distributor including the black distributor body, distributor top along with coil wire. We then installed the distributor from my car and it immediately started. Changed back to the original coil wire in the truck and still started. Proceeded to the distributor cap with same results. Then exchanged the black distributor body and it would not start. I OHMed out each pin of the body to the respective spark plug hookup and all where good. I don't know if this is the proper way of testing it but.......

Mitch/PA - not that this has anything to do with your services but this is Paul's pickup that you worked on several weeks ago with the pressure plate problem who was going to the national in KY. Don't think the pressure plate let go again and this is why it won't start do you? LOL

Mike V. Florida - We did try to crank it but would not start until like I said when we exchanged distributors.

Really want to thank everyone for their suggestions and time spent trying to help.

Cape Codder.

Mitch//pa · 08-23-2013, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Well we got in running but I'm not so sure the problem is REALLY fixed.
Removed the whole distributor including the black distributor body, distributor top along with coil wire. We then installed the distributor from my car and it immediately started. Changed back to the original coil wire in the truck and still started. Proceeded to the distributor cap with same results. Then exchanged the black distributor body and it would not start. I OHMed out each pin of the body to the respective spark plug hookup and all where good. I don't know if this is the proper way of testing it but.......

Mitch/PA - not that this has anything to do with your services but this is Paul's pickup that you worked on several weeks ago with the pressure plate problem who was going to the national in KY. Don't think the pressure plate let go again and this is why it won't start do you? LOL

Mike V. Florida - We did try to crank it but would not start until like I said when we exchanged distributors.

Really want to thank everyone for their suggestions and time spent trying to help.

Cape Codder.

haha cape,
the job came with an out of sight guarantee.

he can count his blessings that he didnt break down again on the way back with a potential distributor problem. i might have been able to get the truck for free then.

pat in Santa Cruz · 08-23-2013, 10:27 PM

there used to be loads of defective distributor bodies (the black plastic part) around that were defective. I bet they're still around at swap meets, in spare parts boxes. Testing continuity between the contacts does not locate the trouble, as it's leakage inside the body allowing the spark to ground through the easiest path ( e.g. other plugs, directly to the distributor base, through the closest connector) it can find. The better repros these days are pretty good. Sounds like that's the trouble.

Tom maxwell · 08-24-2013, 07:44 AM

You have checked everything. If all is right so far, I will ask are you sure you timed the engine to the number 1 cylinder?I assume your getting gas.

Cape Codder · 08-24-2013, 08:49 PM

Tom maxwell,
We feel it timed to the number 1 cylinder. My question is is it possible to install the distributor shaft upside down and if so does it make any difference?

Thanks for your time.
Cape Codder

pat in Santa Cruz · 08-24-2013, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Tom maxwell,
We feel it timed to the number 1 cylinder. My question is is it possible to install the distributor shaft upside down and if so does it make any difference?

Thanks for your time.
Cape Codder

It makes no difference which way the shaft is placed, as long as it is engaged with the drive gear

Purdy Swoft · 08-24-2013, 10:30 PM

When the timing pin drops in place, the trailing edge of the rotor tip needs to point exactly at the number one contact in the distributor cap body, with NO clockwise backlash. All of the backlash, no matter how much or how little must be left in the counter clockwise direction. After this adjustment is made, you can check the acuracy by retarding the spark lever and moving the tightened dist. cam in the counter clockwise direction. The points should begin to open with the slightest movement of the dist. cam, in the counter clockwise direction. After over 50 years of setting model A timing, I'm sure enough about myself that I don't even bother with re checking. Things that could cause the points not to open correctly could be improper points gap, bad distributor cam, timing pin not exactly on the mark or the so called modern points.

Mike V. Florida · 08-24-2013, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Well we got in running but I'm not so sure the problem is REALLY fixed.
Removed the whole distributor including the black distributor body, distributor top along with coil wire. We then installed the distributor from my car and it immediately started. Changed back to the original coil wire in the truck and still started. Proceeded to the distributor cap with same results. Then exchanged the black distributor body and it would not start. I OHMed out each pin of the body to the respective spark plug hookup and all where good. I don't know if this is the proper way of testing it but.......

Mitch/PA - not that this has anything to do with your services but this is Paul's pickup that you worked on several weeks ago with the pressure plate problem who was going to the national in KY. Don't think the pressure plate let go again and this is why it won't start do you? LOL

Mike V. Florida - We did try to crank it but would not start until like I said when we exchanged distributors.

Really want to thank everyone for their suggestions and time spent trying to help.

Cape Codder.

Still wondering how it could start if the voltage on the battery goes to 1 volt when the starter is engaged.

Purdy Swoft · 08-25-2013, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Still wondering how it could start if the voltage on the battery goes to 1 volt when the starter is engaged.

I've been thinking the same thing .

Cape Codder · 08-28-2013, 10:30 AM

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Well, we have the pickup running, and running well. After timing it and then checking the timing several times, changing the points, changing the condenser, checking the wiring at the amp meter and ignition switch, checking the wiring in the terminal box and who knows what else. Tried another condenser, which was USED, and that fixed the NO START PROBLEM!

While on this subject of condensers, is there any way short of building what Tom Wesenberg had shown here on the barn some time ago to check these condensers prior to installing them? Sure would not want a NEW?? one in my spare parts to go on a trip and THEN find out it is no good.

Thanks again to all that tried to give us some insight and suggestions. Sure did appreciate all of them.

As always, thanks for your time.
Cape Codder

Mitch//pa · 08-28-2013, 11:01 AM

at least the clutch is good and the trans did'nt fall out

Mike V. Florida · 08-28-2013, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

While on this subject of condensers, is there any way short of building what Tom Wesenberg had shown here on the barn some time ago to check these condensers prior to installing them? Sure would not want a NEW?? one in my spare parts to go on a trip and THEN find out it is no good.

Buy new from A&L

1931 flamingo · 08-28-2013, 11:24 AM

A&L is supposed to have/make the best condenser. I'd think about carrying one, for what they cost. JMO
Paul in CT

H. L. Chauvin · 08-28-2013, 11:51 AM

Hi Cape Codder,

Remember a shade tree semi-mechanic guy who worked on many different types of old cars who "swore" condensers and/or coils needed a "rest".

a. After a car was towed to his place, many times he would remove condenser No. 1 and/or coil No. 1.

b. Then the corrosion on connections for condenser No.1 and/or coil No. 1 & the corrosion on wiring was removed & cleaned during his removal of same.

c. Next he installed either a new or "used" condenser No. 2 and/or coil No. 2 with clean wiring terminals & clean contacts.

d. Then he would say condenser No. 1 and/or coil No. 1 was bad.

e. After living through the Great Depression & experiencing hard to get parts during WWII, instead of discarding condenser No. 1 and/or coil No. 1, he placed them in a box.

f. Later, when the same condenser No. 2 and/or coil No. 2 went bad, the same old car was towed back to his place, the terminals got cleaned again, & he'd replace them with a "used" condenser and/or "used" coil from his box.

Just for kicks, if you have any doubts about the "used" condenser you just installed, try the other "used" condenser you just removed to see if it now "works" after "resting".

Purdy Swoft · 08-28-2013, 12:07 PM

If a person stays with the original setup and uses the A&L condenser like Snyders and Bratton sells, its not very likely that they will have condenser problems, even after many years of use.

therupperts · 08-28-2013, 12:29 PM

One year I found that my distributor shaft had seized and the gear on the bottom end of the shaft was turning independently on the shaft. See if your dist is turning when you crank it.

H. L. Chauvin · 08-28-2013, 12:35 PM

Agree with Purdy -- "good" condensers can last a very long time.

At one time, (it "seems" like not too long ago), a sales gimmick was that one could not buy ignition points without having to buy a condenser packaged with the points.

A sales "myth" was generated that condensers went bad often & had to be replaced "every" time with points.

When changing points, I always discarded the new condenser in the package & did not change out the existing condenser.

Have several Model A condensers dating back from the 1930's & 1940's -- used & re-used -- they still work fine -- just that the casings are so terrible looking in appearance.

08-10-2013, 10:18 PM	#1
Cape Codder Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,262	NO START Problem We have power to both sides of box on fire wall. Also there is power to ARM side of points but no spark when cranking. Condenser and points have been changed. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks for your time. Cape Codder

08-10-2013, 11:20 PM	#2
pat in Santa Cruz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: santa cruz, calif Posts: 2,011	Re: NO START Problem how's your coil?

08-10-2013, 11:24 PM	#3
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: NO START Problem If the battery is weak, it may not have enough power to turn the starter and fire the points with enough power to start the engine. I've had this problem before.

08-11-2013, 01:09 AM	#4
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: NO START Problem Remove all 4 plugs. Lay same on their sides for ground. Crank engine to see if plugs are firing at plug gaps. Why? If plugs are not firing out of the combustion chamber they will not fire in the combustion chamber to make the engine run.

08-11-2013, 01:33 AM	#5
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: NO START Problem Is the rotor turning? Does the distributor have a good ground?

08-11-2013, 07:33 AM	#7
Cape Codder Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,262	Re: NO START Problem Everything was done with a test light. There is power to both sides of coil as well as to both sides of terminal box. PAT in Santa Cruz - don't know if coil is really good other then like I said power is to both sides of it. TOM - the rotor turns and I would assume the distributor is well grounded because there is power to the ARM side of the points. Mike V. in Florida - will go thru your list of ideas and see if there is anything different then the Les Andrews book. We thought of removing the bottom plate last night but don't understand why we have power ( light comes on ) at the ARM. If there was something wrong in the bottom would we NOT have power to this arm? Thanks for all the ideas and will get back to the board, Wanted to take this pickup to the Club picnic today but its a no go so will use another A. Once again thanks for your time. Cape Codder

08-11-2013, 11:45 AM	#8
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: NO START Problem Key ON, engine stopped with points OPEN, then short the points contacts with a screwdriver and see if the coil wire has a good blue spark at least 1/4" long. Power at the points arm doesn't mean the dist body has a good ground. Key ON and engine stopped with the POINTS CLOSED, now do you still show power at the points arm? If so then the dist isn't grounded, or the points contacts are dirty.

08-11-2013, 11:07 PM	#9
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: NO START Problem You are down to 4 things from what I can see, your points are not closing, the points are dirty, the distributor/engine is not grounded bad (open) coil. With the points open you should have voltage at the arm as measured from the arm to the distributor body. If not you have a bad ground. Move the test light to the engine head stud then to the frame to find where you are losing ground. Close the points and you should now have 0 volts. This shows good point contact. Open the points and as you do so, you should get a strong spark from the coil. By the was I don't like test lights to test for voltage as they will still light even with low voltage. Without the engine running a cheap digital volt meter will work fine. __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

08-19-2013, 12:21 PM	#10
Cape Codder Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,262	Re: NO START Problem Still haven't figured out the problem. Do have spark at points when opening and closing with a screwdriver but NOTHING when trying to use starter. Can this be a bad ignition cable and if so is it checked by continuity from stud at ignition switch to bottom of cable at distributor?

08-19-2013, 01:59 PM	#12
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: NO START Problem What is the voltage at the terminal box while the starter is turning the engine over? __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

08-19-2013, 02:27 PM	#13
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: NO START Problem cape, you never mentioned if you have spark at the coil wire when holding it near a head nut... try it using a screwdriver at the points and when cranking.. make sure you have a good battery as purdy mentioned above

08-19-2013, 03:12 PM	#14
Cape Codder Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,262	Re: NO START Problem Will be checking all the recent suggestions but forgot to mention one other thing. There is 6 volts at the points but when cranking the starter it goes to 1 - 0 volts.

08-19-2013, 03:24 PM	#15
Doot Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Tyrone, Pa. Posts: 89	Re: NO START Problem Make sure the ignition wire spring under distributor plate is free from debris and lubed enough to spring in and out. __________________ "Jack of all trades, master of none, Often times better than a master of one"

08-23-2013, 04:46 PM	#17
Cape Codder Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,262	Re: NO START Problem Well we got in running but I'm not so sure the problem is REALLY fixed. Removed the whole distributor including the black distributor body, distributor top along with coil wire. We then installed the distributor from my car and it immediately started. Changed back to the original coil wire in the truck and still started. Proceeded to the distributor cap with same results. Then exchanged the black distributor body and it would not start. I OHMed out each pin of the body to the respective spark plug hookup and all where good. I don't know if this is the proper way of testing it but....... Mitch/PA - not that this has anything to do with your services but this is Paul's pickup that you worked on several weeks ago with the pressure plate problem who was going to the national in KY. Don't think the pressure plate let go again and this is why it won't start do you? LOL Mike V. Florida - We did try to crank it but would not start until like I said when we exchanged distributors. Really want to thank everyone for their suggestions and time spent trying to help. Cape Codder.

08-23-2013, 10:27 PM	#19
pat in Santa Cruz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: santa cruz, calif Posts: 2,011	Re: NO START Problem there used to be loads of defective distributor bodies (the black plastic part) around that were defective. I bet they're still around at swap meets, in spare parts boxes. Testing continuity between the contacts does not locate the trouble, as it's leakage inside the body allowing the spark to ground through the easiest path ( e.g. other plugs, directly to the distributor base, through the closest connector) it can find. The better repros these days are pretty good. Sounds like that's the trouble.

08-24-2013, 07:44 AM	#20
Tom maxwell Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Westchester ny Posts: 68	Re: NO START Problem You have checked everything. If all is right so far, I will ask are you sure you timed the engine to the number 1 cylinder?I assume your getting gas.

08-24-2013, 08:49 PM	#21
Cape Codder Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,262	Re: NO START Problem Tom maxwell, We feel it timed to the number 1 cylinder. My question is is it possible to install the distributor shaft upside down and if so does it make any difference? Thanks for your time. Cape Codder

08-24-2013, 10:30 PM	#23
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: NO START Problem When the timing pin drops in place, the trailing edge of the rotor tip needs to point exactly at the number one contact in the distributor cap body, with NO clockwise backlash. All of the backlash, no matter how much or how little must be left in the counter clockwise direction. After this adjustment is made, you can check the acuracy by retarding the spark lever and moving the tightened dist. cam in the counter clockwise direction. The points should begin to open with the slightest movement of the dist. cam, in the counter clockwise direction. After over 50 years of setting model A timing, I'm sure enough about myself that I don't even bother with re checking. Things that could cause the points not to open correctly could be improper points gap, bad distributor cam, timing pin not exactly on the mark or the so called modern points.

08-28-2013, 10:30 AM	#26
Cape Codder Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,262	Re: NO START Problem Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Well, we have the pickup running, and running well. After timing it and then checking the timing several times, changing the points, changing the condenser, checking the wiring at the amp meter and ignition switch, checking the wiring in the terminal box and who knows what else. Tried another condenser, which was USED, and that fixed the NO START PROBLEM! While on this subject of condensers, is there any way short of building what Tom Wesenberg had shown here on the barn some time ago to check these condensers prior to installing them? Sure would not want a NEW?? one in my spare parts to go on a trip and THEN find out it is no good. Thanks again to all that tried to give us some insight and suggestions. Sure did appreciate all of them. As always, thanks for your time. Cape Codder

08-28-2013, 11:01 AM	#27
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: NO START Problem at least the clutch is good and the trans did'nt fall out

08-28-2013, 11:24 AM	#29
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: NO START Problem A&L is supposed to have/make the best condenser. I'd think about carrying one, for what they cost. JMO Paul in CT

08-28-2013, 11:51 AM	#30
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: NO START Problem Hi Cape Codder, Remember a shade tree semi-mechanic guy who worked on many different types of old cars who "swore" condensers and/or coils needed a "rest". a. After a car was towed to his place, many times he would remove condenser No. 1 and/or coil No. 1. b. Then the corrosion on connections for condenser No.1 and/or coil No. 1 & the corrosion on wiring was removed & cleaned during his removal of same. c. Next he installed either a new or "used" condenser No. 2 and/or coil No. 2 with clean wiring terminals & clean contacts. d. Then he would say condenser No. 1 and/or coil No. 1 was bad. e. After living through the Great Depression & experiencing hard to get parts during WWII, instead of discarding condenser No. 1 and/or coil No. 1, he placed them in a box. f. Later, when the same condenser No. 2 and/or coil No. 2 went bad, the same old car was towed back to his place, the terminals got cleaned again, & he'd replace them with a "used" condenser and/or "used" coil from his box. Just for kicks, if you have any doubts about the "used" condenser you just installed, try the other "used" condenser you just removed to see if it now "works" after "resting". Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 08-28-2013 at 11:54 AM. Reason: typo

08-28-2013, 12:07 PM	#31
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: NO START Problem If a person stays with the original setup and uses the A&L condenser like Snyders and Bratton sells, its not very likely that they will have condenser problems, even after many years of use.

08-28-2013, 12:29 PM	#32
therupperts Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Nokomis (south central Illinois) Posts: 66	Re: NO START Problem One year I found that my distributor shaft had seized and the gear on the bottom end of the shaft was turning independently on the shaft. See if your dist is turning when you crank it.

08-28-2013, 12:35 PM	#33
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: NO START Problem Agree with Purdy -- "good" condensers can last a very long time. At one time, (it "seems" like not too long ago), a sales gimmick was that one could not buy ignition points without having to buy a condenser packaged with the points. A sales "myth" was generated that condensers went bad often & had to be replaced "every" time with points. When changing points, I always discarded the new condenser in the package & did not change out the existing condenser. Have several Model A condensers dating back from the 1930's & 1940's -- used & re-used -- they still work fine -- just that the casings are so terrible looking in appearance.