The Ford Barn

Cape Codder · 08-24-2013, 08:49 PM

Tom maxwell,
We feel it timed to the number 1 cylinder. My question is is it possible to install the distributor shaft upside down and if so does it make any difference?

Thanks for your time.
Cape Codder

pat in Santa Cruz · 08-24-2013, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Tom maxwell,
We feel it timed to the number 1 cylinder. My question is is it possible to install the distributor shaft upside down and if so does it make any difference?

Thanks for your time.
Cape Codder

It makes no difference which way the shaft is placed, as long as it is engaged with the drive gear

Purdy Swoft · 08-24-2013, 10:30 PM

When the timing pin drops in place, the trailing edge of the rotor tip needs to point exactly at the number one contact in the distributor cap body, with NO clockwise backlash. All of the backlash, no matter how much or how little must be left in the counter clockwise direction. After this adjustment is made, you can check the acuracy by retarding the spark lever and moving the tightened dist. cam in the counter clockwise direction. The points should begin to open with the slightest movement of the dist. cam, in the counter clockwise direction. After over 50 years of setting model A timing, I'm sure enough about myself that I don't even bother with re checking. Things that could cause the points not to open correctly could be improper points gap, bad distributor cam, timing pin not exactly on the mark or the so called modern points.

Mike V. Florida · 08-24-2013, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Well we got in running but I'm not so sure the problem is REALLY fixed.
Removed the whole distributor including the black distributor body, distributor top along with coil wire. We then installed the distributor from my car and it immediately started. Changed back to the original coil wire in the truck and still started. Proceeded to the distributor cap with same results. Then exchanged the black distributor body and it would not start. I OHMed out each pin of the body to the respective spark plug hookup and all where good. I don't know if this is the proper way of testing it but.......

Mitch/PA - not that this has anything to do with your services but this is Paul's pickup that you worked on several weeks ago with the pressure plate problem who was going to the national in KY. Don't think the pressure plate let go again and this is why it won't start do you? LOL

Mike V. Florida - We did try to crank it but would not start until like I said when we exchanged distributors.

Really want to thank everyone for their suggestions and time spent trying to help.

Cape Codder.

Still wondering how it could start if the voltage on the battery goes to 1 volt when the starter is engaged.

Purdy Swoft · 08-25-2013, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Still wondering how it could start if the voltage on the battery goes to 1 volt when the starter is engaged.

I've been thinking the same thing .

Cape Codder · 08-28-2013, 10:30 AM

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Well, we have the pickup running, and running well. After timing it and then checking the timing several times, changing the points, changing the condenser, checking the wiring at the amp meter and ignition switch, checking the wiring in the terminal box and who knows what else. Tried another condenser, which was USED, and that fixed the NO START PROBLEM!

While on this subject of condensers, is there any way short of building what Tom Wesenberg had shown here on the barn some time ago to check these condensers prior to installing them? Sure would not want a NEW?? one in my spare parts to go on a trip and THEN find out it is no good.

Thanks again to all that tried to give us some insight and suggestions. Sure did appreciate all of them.

As always, thanks for your time.
Cape Codder

Mitch//pa · 08-28-2013, 11:01 AM

at least the clutch is good and the trans did'nt fall out

Mike V. Florida · 08-28-2013, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

While on this subject of condensers, is there any way short of building what Tom Wesenberg had shown here on the barn some time ago to check these condensers prior to installing them? Sure would not want a NEW?? one in my spare parts to go on a trip and THEN find out it is no good.

Buy new from A&L

1931 flamingo · 08-28-2013, 11:24 AM

A&L is supposed to have/make the best condenser. I'd think about carrying one, for what they cost. JMO
Paul in CT

H. L. Chauvin · 08-28-2013, 11:51 AM

Hi Cape Codder,

Remember a shade tree semi-mechanic guy who worked on many different types of old cars who "swore" condensers and/or coils needed a "rest".

a. After a car was towed to his place, many times he would remove condenser No. 1 and/or coil No. 1.

b. Then the corrosion on connections for condenser No.1 and/or coil No. 1 & the corrosion on wiring was removed & cleaned during his removal of same.

c. Next he installed either a new or "used" condenser No. 2 and/or coil No. 2 with clean wiring terminals & clean contacts.

d. Then he would say condenser No. 1 and/or coil No. 1 was bad.

e. After living through the Great Depression & experiencing hard to get parts during WWII, instead of discarding condenser No. 1 and/or coil No. 1, he placed them in a box.

f. Later, when the same condenser No. 2 and/or coil No. 2 went bad, the same old car was towed back to his place, the terminals got cleaned again, & he'd replace them with a "used" condenser and/or "used" coil from his box.

Just for kicks, if you have any doubts about the "used" condenser you just installed, try the other "used" condenser you just removed to see if it now "works" after "resting".

Purdy Swoft · 08-28-2013, 12:07 PM

If a person stays with the original setup and uses the A&L condenser like Snyders and Bratton sells, its not very likely that they will have condenser problems, even after many years of use.

therupperts · 08-28-2013, 12:29 PM

One year I found that my distributor shaft had seized and the gear on the bottom end of the shaft was turning independently on the shaft. See if your dist is turning when you crank it.

H. L. Chauvin · 08-28-2013, 12:35 PM

Agree with Purdy -- "good" condensers can last a very long time.

At one time, (it "seems" like not too long ago), a sales gimmick was that one could not buy ignition points without having to buy a condenser packaged with the points.

A sales "myth" was generated that condensers went bad often & had to be replaced "every" time with points.

When changing points, I always discarded the new condenser in the package & did not change out the existing condenser.

Have several Model A condensers dating back from the 1930's & 1940's -- used & re-used -- they still work fine -- just that the casings are so terrible looking in appearance.

08-24-2013, 08:49 PM	#21
Cape Codder Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,262	Re: NO START Problem Tom maxwell, We feel it timed to the number 1 cylinder. My question is is it possible to install the distributor shaft upside down and if so does it make any difference? Thanks for your time. Cape Codder

08-24-2013, 10:30 PM	#23
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: NO START Problem When the timing pin drops in place, the trailing edge of the rotor tip needs to point exactly at the number one contact in the distributor cap body, with NO clockwise backlash. All of the backlash, no matter how much or how little must be left in the counter clockwise direction. After this adjustment is made, you can check the acuracy by retarding the spark lever and moving the tightened dist. cam in the counter clockwise direction. The points should begin to open with the slightest movement of the dist. cam, in the counter clockwise direction. After over 50 years of setting model A timing, I'm sure enough about myself that I don't even bother with re checking. Things that could cause the points not to open correctly could be improper points gap, bad distributor cam, timing pin not exactly on the mark or the so called modern points.

08-28-2013, 10:30 AM	#26
Cape Codder Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,262	Re: NO START Problem Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Well, we have the pickup running, and running well. After timing it and then checking the timing several times, changing the points, changing the condenser, checking the wiring at the amp meter and ignition switch, checking the wiring in the terminal box and who knows what else. Tried another condenser, which was USED, and that fixed the NO START PROBLEM! While on this subject of condensers, is there any way short of building what Tom Wesenberg had shown here on the barn some time ago to check these condensers prior to installing them? Sure would not want a NEW?? one in my spare parts to go on a trip and THEN find out it is no good. Thanks again to all that tried to give us some insight and suggestions. Sure did appreciate all of them. As always, thanks for your time. Cape Codder

08-28-2013, 11:01 AM	#27
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: NO START Problem at least the clutch is good and the trans did'nt fall out

08-28-2013, 11:24 AM	#29
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: NO START Problem A&L is supposed to have/make the best condenser. I'd think about carrying one, for what they cost. JMO Paul in CT

08-28-2013, 11:51 AM	#30
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: NO START Problem Hi Cape Codder, Remember a shade tree semi-mechanic guy who worked on many different types of old cars who "swore" condensers and/or coils needed a "rest". a. After a car was towed to his place, many times he would remove condenser No. 1 and/or coil No. 1. b. Then the corrosion on connections for condenser No.1 and/or coil No. 1 & the corrosion on wiring was removed & cleaned during his removal of same. c. Next he installed either a new or "used" condenser No. 2 and/or coil No. 2 with clean wiring terminals & clean contacts. d. Then he would say condenser No. 1 and/or coil No. 1 was bad. e. After living through the Great Depression & experiencing hard to get parts during WWII, instead of discarding condenser No. 1 and/or coil No. 1, he placed them in a box. f. Later, when the same condenser No. 2 and/or coil No. 2 went bad, the same old car was towed back to his place, the terminals got cleaned again, & he'd replace them with a "used" condenser and/or "used" coil from his box. Just for kicks, if you have any doubts about the "used" condenser you just installed, try the other "used" condenser you just removed to see if it now "works" after "resting". Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 08-28-2013 at 11:54 AM. Reason: typo

08-28-2013, 12:07 PM	#31
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: NO START Problem If a person stays with the original setup and uses the A&L condenser like Snyders and Bratton sells, its not very likely that they will have condenser problems, even after many years of use.

08-28-2013, 12:29 PM	#32
therupperts Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Nokomis (south central Illinois) Posts: 66	Re: NO START Problem One year I found that my distributor shaft had seized and the gear on the bottom end of the shaft was turning independently on the shaft. See if your dist is turning when you crank it.

08-28-2013, 12:35 PM	#33
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: NO START Problem Agree with Purdy -- "good" condensers can last a very long time. At one time, (it "seems" like not too long ago), a sales gimmick was that one could not buy ignition points without having to buy a condenser packaged with the points. A sales "myth" was generated that condensers went bad often & had to be replaced "every" time with points. When changing points, I always discarded the new condenser in the package & did not change out the existing condenser. Have several Model A condensers dating back from the 1930's & 1940's -- used & re-used -- they still work fine -- just that the casings are so terrible looking in appearance.