Model A performance

[Cockshutt Kid]

Good evening guy's. I learned to drive on a 31 tudor, and last summer I replaced it with one that is almost identical. It was restored in the early 1980's. The body appears to be excellent, with a decent interior, and it runs fairly good. Paint is starting to fail. Last winter I redid the steering as I was not happy with it. I put in a new sector with needle bearing housing, shortened pitman arm, and nylon inserts in drag link and tie rod ends. Waiting till the shop doors thaw out so that I can try it.
Now to my questions. I live on a busy highway, so I would like to get a little more speed out of it. It runs comfortably at 40mph, and ideally I would like to be able to run at 50 to 55. I am assuming that the engine rebuild at that time was probably a set of rings and file the caps. That was the norm around here, because the closest shop able to do much more is a long way off. Today I picked up two A engines and a B engine, just on speculation that I might need them. I have not opened them up yet, so i have no idea as to condition or what is inside. I also got a B transmission.
I would appreciate some opinions and views on what I should do and how far I should go. I am starting to plan for the future, and find what I need now.
Thanks, I appreciate all views.

[Ross/Kzoo]

I always think that it's a good idea to post where you are located so a fellow "A" member or club could help you out on a personal basis. If you're driving it West Virginia or Florida you will different needs and wants.

[James Rogers]

Ross is correct. I live in WNC and with all these hills I need some serious performance. I run a Model A motor with a Stipe cam, babbitt bearings, Snyder 5.5 head, Lightened flywheel with a V8 clutch, counterweighted and balanced crank, oversize intake valves and a Weber downdraft carb. I can pull any hill in third and gain speed and run 60 anywhere. It will spin the tires on takeoff and really scats.

Now, where do you live so we can suggest some upgrades to you.

[Terry, NJ]

I'm guessing you live in Canada due to the name "Cockshutt". It being a Canadian brand of tractor and reference to the shop doors thawing out. But that aside, Before you start tearing your "runs pretty good" engine to flinders, try rotating the steering column, especially since you've had it apart and advancing the timing a hair. I had a similar speed limitation and I increased the top end at least 5-10 MPH. The timing is advanced inside the distributor, not with the spark advance on the column.
Terry

Originally Posted by Cockshutt Kid

Good evening guy's. I learned to drive on a 31 tudor, and last summer I replaced it with one that is almost identical. It was restored in the early 1980's. The body appears to be excellent, with a decent interior, and it runs fairly good. Paint is starting to fail. Last winter I redid the steering as I was not happy with it. I put in a new sector with needle bearing housing, shortened pitman arm, and nylon inserts in drag link and tie rod ends. Waiting till the shop doors thaw out so that I can try it.
Now to my questions. I live on a busy highway, so I would like to get a little more speed out of it. It runs comfortably at 40mph, and ideally I would like to be able to run at 50 to 55. I am assuming that the engine rebuild at that time was probably a set of rings and file the caps. That was the norm around here, because the closest shop able to do much more is a long way off. Today I picked up two A engines and a B engine, just on speculation that I might need them. I have not opened them up yet, so i have no idea as to condition or what is inside. I also got a B transmission.
I would appreciate some opinions and views on what I should do and how far I should go. I am starting to plan for the future, and find what I need now.
Thanks, I appreciate all views.

[Cockshutt Kid]

You guy's are right about the location thing. As you might have guessed I am not much good with computers. I have tried several times to add that info with no luck. All I accomplish is messing up what I have already done. You are also correct about the tractors, and my location is Ontario, Canada, about half way between the New York State border and Ottawa {our Capital}. It is mostly flat ground with all types of road conditions. The only constant is the excessive speed and lack of patience of other drivers, hence my desire for a little faster car.

[Terry, NJ]

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Welcome aboard! Try rotating the steering column. Loosen the steering collar and turn the column towards the passenger side , just a scunch (term not found in model A manuals) also, Marco Tahatara's (SP it's off by a letter or two I'm sure) page/article on timing these engines, Someone will have the link.
Terry

[John LaVoy]

Welcome. Glad you are headed in the driving direction with the Model A. We have driven thousands of miles around the US and Canada in our sedan. As mas mentioned getting the timing correct will help, a stock engine should be able to get you to 50 easy enough. But after that you will need to look at improvements. The most bang for the buck is a high compression head. There are several available but for general driving the 5.5 is a proven option, it is fine with babbitt bearings.

[rons49]

What about an overdrive? there are options. A high compression head and overdrive should get you up to speed and maintain it well enough at 50-55. But, make sure your brakes can handle stopping at that speed, on a consistent basis.

[Cockshutt Kid]

Thanks guy's. I think the timing is good. The car will do 50 or 55, but I just feal that I am pushing it too hard to hold it at that speed for any distance. An overdrive is definitely one of the things that I will consider, but they are expensive and I am given to understand that there is a year waiting list to get one.
The point about the brakes is also excellent, and is on the list of items to verify before getting going too fast.
I have been flip flopping back and forth between repairs that require $$$ such as steering rebuild and those that are just labour intensive such as hood and body alignment. Only after I have all of the mechanical items to my satisfaction, then I will deal with the paint.
Thanks, Jim.

[PC/SR]

You should have a sound engine before you start bolting stuff on. At least check the compression, leak down test is better. A vacuum test can tell a lot too. Ask here for typical readings from a known good engine if you decide to do it. I would pull the head and check the valves. Look in the valve chamber for gunk and unwanted stuff, check the lifter clearances. Good luck and have fun.