1940 Locking Steering Column

[Cartravel]

I'm restoring the steering column and steering box for a '40 pickup. I have two columns with keys. I got the key to work on one, but the other is too rusty even after weeks of soaking with penetrating oil. It appears the tube will not come off and unless it is unlocked and naturally the rusty one is in the locked position. I can't see how it comes apart. Is there a simple way to remove the lock mechanism? I've called around to local locksmiths. One worked on "old" cars back all the way to 1995.
Thanks,
Larry Young

[mrtexas]

Soak in evaporust

[Ken/Alabama]

There is a pin that secures the key cylinder in place . you will need to drill a hole in it and tap it for a machine screw. Then you can remove it with a small slide hammer.

[32phil]

Typically, column drops that are badly rusted may not be salvageable.
You may be able to save the casting but sometimes the badly rusted internal parts wind up in column drop heaven.
With all respect to mrtexas. Evaporust works only on oil free parts that are unpainted. It will get contaminated by oil and grease and will attack paint after soaking for too long. Over time it will also eat Pot metal parts.
If you wish you can send some pictures to my cell phone, and I'll try to help.
Phil cell 845 551 5132

[Cartravel]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

There is a pin that secures the key cylinder in place . you will need to drill a hole in it and tap it for a machine screw. Then you can remove it with a small slide hammer.

Ken, thanks so much, that's the piece of the puzzle I needed.


I wasn't too keen on the evaporust. Most of those products are acids and most penetrants have acid in them already.

[Cartravel]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I am about to remove the lock cylinder using Ken's procedure. If the cylinder cannot be saved, can it be replaced?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Cartravel

I am about to remove the lock cylinder using Ken's procedure. If the cylinder cannot be saved, can it be replaced?

Larry ..... You would do well to contact Phil up in post #4. He is one of the foremost LOCK GURUs here on the 'Barn! See BELOW!!
__________________________________________________ _____

Early Ford 32-48 keys cut by code. $10 each key $5 for each additional w/same number. I prefer to have the lock but will cut just by code. I can do some 1950 to 1964 call on those because the blanks may be different. I can do locking handles w/out the number, call for details. Personal Checks OK. Any questions/phone help, call 32 Phil
845 457 3546 home
845 551 5132 cell.


Coop

.

[Terry,OH]

Yes the cylinder can be replaced. It would be good to have it pined to work on the same key as the door as original. The old cylinder will have a key code stamped on it's side.

[Cartravel]

Its hard to believe, but I'm still working on this problem. I successfully removed the pin using the a slide hammer as suggested by Ken/Alabama. However, the lock mechanism would still not come out. It had a key, so I tried attaching the slide hammer to no avail. Then I drilling a hole on the back side and tried knocking out with a punch. No joy.



It is in the locked position, so there is a tang engaged in a boss on the steering column. My thought is that it is never gonna come out in this configuration. I somehow must destroy the engagement of the tang. Is this crazy or just desperation? It would have been nice if Ford had made the boss a slit so the housing would still slide off.

[TJ]

The lock should come out. A cam on the back of the lock engages the lock mechanism , but there is nothing attached to the cam. Sounds like it is rusted to the column bracket.

[Cartravel]

Originally Posted by TJ

Sounds like it is rusted to the column bracket.

The housing moves within the slot in the column, so I don't believe it is rusted to the column. I'm thinking of drilling into the lock mechanism since its shot anyway.

[TJ]

Originally Posted by Cartravel

The housing moves within the slot in the column, so I don't believe it is rusted to the column. I'm thinking of drilling into the lock mechanism since its shot anyway.

That is probably your best bet to drill it out.

[Cartravel]

Finally! Drilling out the lock mechanism didn't work. That tang would not budge. I finally forced the housing off using the press. Should have done that sooner. I hate to use brute force, but it was a stubborn sob.