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Old 09-03-2013, 02:34 PM   #1
BobbyG
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Default Clutch Slip

Guys, Went for a little drive and after about 12 miles my clutch started to slip.

When in top gear if I hit the gas too quick the engine starts to race without a whole lot else happening.

1937 V8 with 37 3 spd box - can someone tell me how to adjust clutch or point me to a info source please.

I am hoping it is just an adjustment but knowing my luck it will be engine & trans out.

Thanks

Bob
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:39 PM   #2
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

If there's any freeplay in the pedal, I don't believe your optimistic (adjustment) idea is gonna pan-out. DD
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:58 PM   #3
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

Remove the cotter pin from the clutch arm ,then screw in the clevis until your pedal has play against the floor board .
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:15 PM   #4
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

clutch pedal should have at least 1 to 1 1/2 " free play when depressed down with your fingers
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:20 AM   #5
BobbyG
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

My pedal sits at the point where there is zero free play when pushing it down, however if I pull the pedal up from this sitting position there is about 3" of play before it gets resistance.

I know nothing about this clutch/box system - all help appreciated


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Old 09-04-2013, 09:30 AM   #6
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

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Bobby, there should be a spring pulling the pedal up. It will rest on the underside of the floorboard. There should be free play from this position before it picks up the slack in the linkage and starts to release the clutch.

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Old 09-04-2013, 09:54 AM   #7
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

Mart - no spring on mine but if there was ( and there will be just as soon as I can find one suitable) there would be about 3" of slack before the pedal starts to do anything when pushing down.

Can someone advise how to adjust it please
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:35 AM   #8
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

Fit a spring so the pedal comes up against the underside of the floorboard. You could fit some rubber bumpers under the floorboard so those flattened areas of the pedal arms contact the bumpers when the pedals are "up".
That threaded clevis is where you do the adjustment. Undo one end and loosen the locknut. Turn the clevis end until the correct amount of pedal free play is achieved. around 1-1/2" at the pedal pad has been quoted above. Refit the clevis pin, nip up the locknut and carry onski.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:55 AM   #9
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

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Originally Posted by BobbyG View Post
Mart - no spring on mine but if there was ( and there will be just as soon as I can find one suitable) there would be about 3" of slack before the pedal starts to do anything when pushing down.

Can someone advise how to adjust it please
With 3" of pedal free play, my dumb bet would be that your clutch hat (pressure plate), at the least, has some broken springs within, as I was alluding to in my first post. If so, that won't "adjust-out". DD
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:29 AM   #10
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

Fitted a spring - adjusted push rod - test drive seemed ok not slipping yet - Very Happy

Going to put some more miles in over the weekend.

Thanks all for your help on this very much appreciated

Bob
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:27 AM   #11
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

Good for you Bob. Funny how some guys always look for the worst case scenario before suggesting doing any troubleshooting to solve a problem.
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:41 AM   #12
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

Bobby G, What you might have learned is that as your clutch wears, the "free board" (The slack bit of pedal travel) becomes less and less.
When you have used up all of the free board, the thrust bearing starts loading up on the fingers of the pressure plate, just the same as if you were already pushing on the clutch pedal.
With the Ford type pressure plate the fingers have weights on them which tend to throw out (with engine revs) This has an added clamping effect on the clutch plate,but would not happen if you had run out of clearance.
By re setting the clutch free board you have now let this clamping effect happen.
You might notice the free board is different at idle than it is when you have the revs on.
You may well have completely solved your trouble.
I hope that helps to give you some understanding.
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Old 09-06-2013, 04:38 PM   #13
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

I can't see how reducing from 3" of free play to 1-1/2" would improve a slipping clutch?! Surely the weight of the pedal (because of the missing spring) wouldn't cause slip?
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Old 09-06-2013, 04:43 PM   #14
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

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Originally Posted by Ross F-1 View Post
I can't see how reducing from 3" of free play to 1-1/2" would improve a slipping clutch?! Surely the weight of the pedal (because of the missing spring) wouldn't cause slip?
I'd be open-minded enough to have someone (maybe Vic can troubleshoot what I overlooked) explain that to me, too. Always open to learning. DD
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Old 09-06-2013, 05:00 PM   #15
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

I'd like to help you Coopman but I'm too busy out driving our cars & trucks.
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:36 PM   #16
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

Bob, Here's the spring you're missing to pull your pedal back up to the floor: http://macsautoparts.com/campaign_pr...S0R3CHL1072420

It's # 7523 in this diagram. I hooks around the knob on the passenger end of the rear clevis pin. I can see that knob in your picture bare naked of the spring.

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Old 09-06-2013, 09:28 PM   #17
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

Ross, V8 Coopman, Is this directed at me?
I read BobbyG's first post, and the one where he indicated it was fixed. I made the mistake of assuming he had no freeboard left. (the normal fault) I'd missed the 3" travel bit. (I read it all before but not recalled all the detail. Maybe that bolt in the bottom clevis was binding enough, that with the weight of the pedal (and no return spring ) it was enough to let the clutch slip?
I don't know, but something has changed. I was just trying to give BobbyG some understanding of how it worked.
BTW BobbyG, that shouldn't be a bolt in that clevis. It should have a clevis pin.
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:43 PM   #18
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

General comment, not directed at you in particular. Maybe I'm missing something, but I can't see how anything is really changed that would eliminate slipping. I wonder if water/antifreeze got on the disc, and has dried out?
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Old 09-06-2013, 11:12 PM   #19
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebell View Post
BTW BobbyG, that shouldn't be a bolt in that clevis. It should have a clevis pin.
Good call Bluebell. You were more observant than I. I missed that one.
The pin is 5/16" X 31/32". The cotter pin 1/8" X 5/8".
Sorry I couldn't find a source.
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Old 09-06-2013, 11:21 PM   #20
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Default Re: Clutch Slip

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross F-1 View Post
General comment, not directed at you in particular. Maybe I'm missing something, but I can't see how anything is really changed that would eliminate slipping. I wonder if water/antifreeze got on the disc, and has dried out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross F-1 View Post
I can't see how reducing from 3" of free play to 1-1/2" would improve a slipping clutch?! Surely the weight of the pedal (because of the missing spring) wouldn't cause slip?
Quote:
Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN View Post
With 3" of pedal free play, my dumb bet would be that your clutch hat (pressure plate), at the least, has some broken springs within, as I was alluding to in my first post. If so, that won't "adjust-out". DD
In theory, I agree with all of you.
But this may just be one of those times, that often happens to me, when I take something apart to find out what's wrong, can't find anything wrong, put it back together and it's fixed!
Sometimes just any change will do, no matter how illogical. I just happens.

Let's hope Bob is so lucky.
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