So hot in car

[BobbyG]

After 9 months of fixing the old coupe up - I had my longest drives this last few days and she is driving very nice indeed.

BUT ........... Oh my it is so hot in the car, is everyone's A as hot as mine ?

It is like being in a sauna - even with windows and screen open.

Were they always like this ?

Bob

[Rowdy]

Dynomat is your best freind with these cars. Insulate the friewall and floorboards. Yes they are hot, but can be made barable. I plan on insulating about everywhere on the delivery, not going to be cheap, but feel it will add greatly to its enjoyability. May even go as far as adding a "Vintage Air" unit at some point. Rod

[Bill B]

The 2-45 air conditioner (two windows open and go 45 mph) was, and is, just about the best you can do if you want a real "A"

[CarlG]

I've got the insulated firewall that the vendors sell, have insulated the kick panels with Dynomat AND another layer of batt insulation (don't remember the brand) will do the same to the doors, floor panels and back whenever I can get them opened up enough to do that without tearing the car clear apart.

All that helps for sound deadning also.

Ken Davis A/C will go in eventually.

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by BobbyG

BUT ........... Oh my it is so hot in the car, is everyone's A as hot as mine ?

It is like being in a sauna - even with windows and screen open.

Were they always like this ?

Bob

Yes.

We have gotten used to having A/C in home, car, office, church, so it makes the difference feel greater.

I remember as a kid driving with my aunt and uncle on vacation at night to avoid driving in the heat (no A/C). The car also ran cooler. The church had big fans and all the windows open.

I know Dynamat helps deaden sound. I am not sure if it is intended to be thermal insulation. They might have two products, one for sound and one for heat. Adding insulation where it is hidden is a good thing.

Look for hot air leaking in through the firewall, around the steering column and pedals, that sort of thing, and seal it up.

[Duffy1]

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I put some fiber glass house insulation in small plastic grocery bags and stuffed them up behind the dash/gas tank and in the kick panels . Unbelievable how much heat and sound it knocked out .

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by BobbyG

After 9 months of fixing the old coupe up - I had my longest drives this last few days and she is driving very nice indeed.

BUT ........... Oh my it is so hot in the car, is everyone's A as hot as mine ?

It is like being in a sauna - even with windows and screen open.

Were they always like this ?

Bob

I drive year round in South Florida and the temp is fine with the windows open. Get an A/C if you must.

[BobbyG]

Thanks all - I don't want to go the AC route - I will look at stopping up some of the gaps and put some insulation in the kick panels etc

It is not ambient temps it is the heat from the engine bay that is the issue.

[Fred K-OR]

You are correct Bobbyg. Coupes are hot!. Had the same experience a few weeks ago on a 75 mile drive in our 29. But here is Oregon, a little heat is better that all the rain we have a good share of the time. Did you turn on the built in air conditioner(front window open)?

[Richard Lorenz]

I am restoring a '31 coupe and have thought about installing some sort of fan behind the seats. Could be on top of the package shelf or underneath it. Has anyone tried something like this?

[bettlesr]

I have a 30 Sport Coupe. I sealed all the holes in the firewall and floor but have not added any insulation. With all four windows open, as long as the car is moving, it is quite comfortable.

[ford3]

first thing to do is put a heat shield around the muffler and header pipe

[DougVieyra]

There is a solution that the ‘old timers’ used during the early days of the automobile. Sometime in the 1950’s, an ‘old timer’ who grew up with the automobiles (1910-1930), told me how it was done in those early days.
There are three necessary component parts to this very basic ‘air conditioner’, and a couple of adjustments to your car, that are needed to make this system work. First item, 1 bucket of cold water (some use ice in the water). Second and third items: two bath-towels.
Now as to the necessary ‘adjustments’ to your car that are needed : All windows MUST be closed. That is except the windshield, which is to be opened about an inch or two : exact adjustment will be determined by the thickness of the next step in the process.
The bucket of cold (ice) water is to be placed on the floorboard, between the legs of the front-seat passenger. Into this water bucket are placed the two bath-towels. Now wring out one of the wet towels, leaving lots of wet moisture in it, and lay it horizontally across the top of the cowl’s Dash Rail, and below the bottom of the opened windshield. Adjust the windshield to make a tight fit with the towel, allowing no hot air from outside.
As the outside hot air passes through the cold wet towel, it will provide cool air to the interior of the car. This should be good for about 15 minutes (depending on how hot it is outside, and how fast you are driving). Once this towel has dried out and lost it’s ‘cool’, wring out the second towel (which has been floating in the cold ice water) and exchange it for the dried-out towel above the dash rail.
This system has a PROVEN history of successful cooling of the interior of the car. Each user also has the opportunity to ‘tweek’ the methodology to suit his/her own preferences. Some like to have some kind of cover for the water bucket, to minimize the sloshing water that will try to escape the bucket and make a mess on the floorboard. Once you too begin to utilize this amazingly simple ‘air conditioner’, you can adjust the system to suit your own needs and preferences.
It should be noted, that while this system WILL WORK, it does have a definite life span. As the cold water in the bucket becomes less, and less cold, so does your ‘air conditioning’ system.
I have only used this set-up twice in the 60 years that I have been driving Ford Model As. For most of us, and for most of the time, this historic link to an earlier (and primitive) solution to a problem is just ‘not worth the effort or hassle’.
There are many aspects to ‘living history’ that driving the Model A can allow us to learn from. This is one of them - a small esoteric footnote that is of little consequence, but fun to know never-the-less. And did I point out - IT DOES WORK !

[V4F]

just did 1500 miles . hot here -90-100* . the trick I have heard is "1/4" crematorium insulation" ...........

[ctlikon0712]

Doug, thanks for sharing. I like that idea.

[glenn in camino]

If the day is hot, it will be hot in a Model A. It's part of the historical experience. Enjoy the time travel.

[Michael M]

While they can get a bit warm, I've found the Tudor to be tolerable with the rear windows down, as well as the front windows and windshield open.

On a related note, I've found these late summer evenings - just before and after sunset - to be perfect for driving the A. The air is beginning to cool and the traffic is lessened. Makes for a delightful hour or two of motoring!

[SeaSlugs]

hmm didnt think it could get much worse than vynal city in my chevette... burn yoru thumbs turning the key, burn your hand on the gearshift, burn your hands on the wheel haha while your butt and back of your calf's are burning its only got 2.5 55ac....

yea i would go with some hidden insulation and get used to it. can always wear a bandanna around your head that you got wet and stuck in the freezer. they make ones with little ice pouches in them - they do wonders at my work where its 100+*F inside with no air movement...

or bring a cooler with ice and water in it or popsicles haha

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Does your coupe have a rumble seat? Purdy Swoft once mentioned that on his daughter's rumble seat coupe, if she left the rumble open, it "scooped" air & it came in to the passenger area from the rear & made it cooler inside. Bill W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

So that's maybe why I see so many open rumble lids even when nobody is in the rumble seat. But, why the open lid on a Roadster when no one's in the seat? Maybe it's an air brake to hold back all the horsepower.

[Jordan]

I have my car fully insulated. But the best thing was making sure the area around the pedals was completely sealed up (or any other holes in the firewall). Also, I cut a piece of thick industrial grade carpet the same shape as my regular carpet. I insulated the floor boards and then put the industrial grade carpet over the insulation, and then my regular model a carpet on top of that. I have 0 heat coming into my car even on the hottest days. If I'm riding passenger, I often take off my shoes and relax. I can't even feel any heat at all coming up through the floor boards/firewall.

[Terry, NJ]

Bobby G, if I remember correctly, you're in the UK. And you find the A to be hot? Check your timing, maybe it should be advanced a couple of degrees. Also, There are aluminum heat shields made to hold back a lot of radiated heat from the muffler. They are easy enough to make, a piece of 12 or 14 gauge sheet aluminum, about 10 " wide, and 4 " longer than the muffler, Bend a couple of "wings" downwards at the edges. A couple of brackets and U bolts to hold it in place. Drill a couple of holes, Assemble and you're on your way. Hopefully, much cooler. Or you can buy one. I think most of the parts houses in the US have them. How much heat do they hold back? I dunno, but I've made two of them for my Town Sedan and my Coupe. The one for the coupe is not installed yet. Terry

[BobbyG]

Thanks to everyone - I spent the morning making & fixing a couple of exhaust heat shrouds under the floor boards - then sealed around the pedals and column - fitted the carpet better and it is a lot better - still quite warm but we are having very unusual warm weather right now also.

Noticed also the car is a bit quieter also - I think I will whip the kick panels off soon and insulate in there also.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Does your coupe have a rumble seat? Purdy Swoft once mentioned that on his daughter's rumble seat coupe, if she left the rumble open, it "scooped" air & it came in to the passenger area from the rear & made it cooler inside. Bill W.

Yo Bill, It does help to leave the lid open in the HELLISH Alabama temps. When I used the coupe as a daily driver I drove with the rumble open, the windows down and the windshield let out all the way to help beat the summer heat. Of course a muffler shield, firewall insulation, and insulation under the floor mat helps. I only had the muffler shield and insulation the last few years that I drove it. The roadster is the worse. The design of the dash panel doesn't direct air to the floor when the windshield is open like most of the closed cars do.

[Pilotdave]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

The roadster is the worst. The design of the dash panel doesn't direct heat to the floor when the windshield is open like most of the closed cars do.

Interesting - we have a Tudor and a Roadster. Riding in the Roadster is like being in an oven compared to the Tudor. We have insulation under the carpet in the Roadster and it's STILL hotter than %#@*^.

Will engine pans help with interior heat?

[Curt Campbell]

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Its 100 here this week. Two things my 31tudor will have shortly as a part of this restoration is a heater and one of Ken Davis's AC units. Saw one a while back...they are sweet!

At 64 I am going to be COMFORTABLE no matter what they weather is!!!!! Totally insulating as well. Screw freezing and sweating.....

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by Pilotdave

Interesting - we have a Tudor and a Roadster. Riding in the Roadster is like being in an over compared to the Tudor. We have insulation under the carpet in the Roadster and it's STILL hotter than %#@*^.

Will engine pans help with interior heat?

Dave, I think engine pans may help. I did catch a mistake that I made in post 24. I meant to say that the dash panel on the roadster doesn't direct air to the floor like the closed cars when the windshield is let out. That is the big reason that the floor is hottest in the open cars. I've got the foil quilted insulation under the floor mats. I also have the firewall insulator and muffler shield. The roadster is still way hotter than the closed cars. Opening the rumble does seem to get a little more air movement. If we was ah raceing we'd close the rumble to reduce wind resistance.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Curt Campbell

Its 100 here this week. Two things my 31tudor will have shortly as a part of this restoration is a heater and one of Ken Davis's AC units...

Get the coombination unit from Ken Davis and then you only have one to install and still get heat and A/C. Best of both worlds.

[Curt Campbell]

Thanks Carl.....wasnt aware of that option!

[CarlG]

That's what I'm putting in mine. Have the heater portion hooked up and working. Will get the A/C done before spring.

[BobbyG]

Just had a look at the Ken Davis website - http://www.kendavismodela.com/Shocks.html

I see the AC only at $1200 which is a bargain - cannot see any mention of Heater & AC.

Now I am presuming that this has an engine driven compressor under the hood - anyone got a pictures of an install ?

[Jordan]

Mine isn't as "clean" of an installation as most, but I was in a hurry to get it in before a trip our club calls the "Hotter Than Hell Tour" because yes, it's hotter than hell. Eventually I'll go back and tidy things up. But here's the pics. As for the AC/Heater combo, yes he does sell them- but he doesn't necessarily recommend them because the heater takes away 6 of the AC cooling cores. (I think there's 32 to begin with). So your AC is compromised. Depending where you live & the temps, you'd be able to tell a difference in the AC cooling ability.

[John LaVoy]

Heat is pretty much related to insulation from the engine compartment and exhaust system. We reviewed the muffler shields and firewall insulation several years ago. One interesting thing was the Aries muffler was as cool as the other brand with the best muffler shield with out a shield. and with the shield it was ambient temperature on the floor of the car. We have the A/C unit in a couple of the cars and it is a very nice way to go and keeps the wife happy on long tours.

[BobbyG]

Thanks Jordan - looks very good to me, and I like the clear top hose and the notes on the dash - looks like a nice car to be driving right there

[Purdy Swoft]

Looks good to me !! COOL too. With all the banjo works on the left side, it wouldn't get in the way of a dual up draft set up if a person was so inclined.

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by Jordan

As for the AC/Heater combo, yes he does sell them- but he doesn't necessarily recommend them because the heater takes away 6 of the AC cooling cores. (I think there's 32 to begin with). So your AC is compromised. Depending where you live & the temps, you'd be able to tell a difference in the AC cooling ability.

Yes, heater takes away cooling coils, and in a sedan like yours and mine, you would really notice the loss of cooling.

It might not be a problem in a coupe. Talk to Ken, he would know.

[Jordan]

Originally Posted by BobbyG

Thanks Jordan - looks very good to me, and I like the clear top hose and the notes on the dash - looks like a nice car to be driving right there

The notes are for family members who might drive the car when I'm not around to "remind" them of all the things to do.

[Russ B]

My black '29 ccpu was done 20 years ago and I put a foil covered bubble wrap like material on the floor, cowl, doors and lower cab areas. It works great for heat control, but is poor for noise. My '51 Ford has Dynamat extreme and a 1/2" of Dynaliner over all of the inside passenger area. It is pretty cool and quiet compared to an original car. I will be doing the same, Dynamat and Dynaliner, on the '29 cabriolet I am currently building, I expect it will be so cool and quiet, it will hardly feel like a Model A. I will have a hot water heater, but do not expect to needed it, except rarely. AC, never for me, on any older car, I just roll down the window. Most of my driving is in the San Francisco peninsula area, so temps are pretty moderate.

[Jerry in Shasta]

I bolted old 4' florescent light fixture shield to the under side of the frame.
I did help.
JB

[Duffy1]

Only get the ac /heater combo if you live in a cold climate . I have the combo in my 31 S/W and this set up is marginal as it relates to AC. I have the heater disconnected as I live in Texas.One of my next projects is to replace this unit with AC only . Putting insulation ,as I mentioned, up behind the fuel tank and behind the kick pads helped a lot .

[pat in Santa Cruz]

for those who want a gold standard in thermal barriers: Gold plated heat barrier

http://www.thermotec.com/post/38/sav...t-barrier.html

actually this company has all sorts of heat barrier related stuff

http://www.thermotec.com/